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Honda CBR 250R
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Ok..here is my technical opinion on your query . Mine is the bike from 1st lot and i've clocked some 10k on it and my last time i went for that KIT replacement (nuts and bolts) i showed bikes brake pads and Mr. Mech said " saar 1-2000kms to chal hi jaega no worry " ( Dont worry it will last another 1-2000kms ) . Your query reminds me of the V'small kinda issue i faced with this bike that once while riding i noticed that bike isnt moving freely so i went to SVC and asked them check and here what mech came up with .Originally posted by strikepackage View Posthey folks....
i need a few tips on preserving the break pads......i ask cause my bike has clocked only 3k and i think it need a pad change..

.the longest trip iv done ..was a ride to b'lore...nyways ill take it to didar tomorrow and have them look into it.. apart from tht I AM THINK OF GETTING JOELS CBR EXHAUST..hes quoted 12k..im thinking abt it.i mean honestly guys she should scream for her beauty..
1> He took a small TD and agreed that bike isnt moving freely .
2> He checked Chain slackness......alignment and rear wheel every thing was fine .
3> then he moved towards Front wheel and here what problem was that brake pads were jamming/catching the front wheel and it could do harldy 1-2 rotations if you try to spin tyre with full force .
4> So he checked the master cylinder and told me that it isnt working properly and some rubber part inside it need to be cleaned or Replaced( on my own cost) .
5> I agreed to him without making any further argument and after 2 hrs i got call from SVC that my bike is ready and mech cleaned that xyz rubber part .
6> I checked bikes front wheel and now it was spinning freely and brake was working good so i took Delivery and came back home .
So IF your bike is eating/gulping brake pads @ 3k kms make sure there isnt any fault with brakes and other mechanical parts (like caliper,master cylinder , brake line) before going for new set of pads .
I wont add on any Tips on preserving brake pads as every rider has his own riding style .
and for FFE and dont like them generally these kind of upgrades are not worth it and If you are doing some really long rides then it(the sound ) get irritating after some distance . CBR is already Torque loaded bike and i think it has enough FREE REVVING engine and i dont feel need to do any mods on it . But on another side IF you like to rev and do short sprint around city its fun to have FFE on your bike
. AND If you want an upgrade which costs 12k coz it make some Noise then its a big NO..! from my side.
and yea sorry for those grammar and spell mistakes.
Its not enough to know how to twist the throttle; you must have judgement to know when and where to do it.
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Might be a very stupid question. If so apologies ..
What is the rear wheel rim size of CBR250R? I would also like to know that if a section 130 rear tyre (ninja / 150R / R15V2) can be fitted with the current rim?
Reason is, I personally feel 140 section is un-necessary & its broadness might be hampering bike's cornering abilities. I am totally amateur in this area and your explanation / take on this idea is highly appreciated.
The Zmaniac - 2 wheeled enthusiast
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It often takes a humiliating overtake to understand that an early jump off the red light won't help them lead the pact. All I want to say is - Go after green.
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Check your CBR tyre and it has the all the info you need written on it.Originally posted by The Zmaniac View PostWhat is the rear wheel rim size of CBR250R? I would also like to know that if a section 130 rear tyre (ninja / 150R / R15V2) can be fitted with the current rim?
Reason is, I personally feel 140 section is un-necessary & its broadness might be hampering bike's cornering abilities. I am totally amateur in this area and your explanation / take on this idea is highly appreciated.
Since you said you are amateur in this area, you should believe Honda engineers did what is best required for CBR. Cornering doesn't depend only on tyres, it also depends on chassis, suspension setup, type pressure, road condition etc.
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Excuse me sir. But who's post are you quoting again? I went 3-4 pages back and did not see the post you quoted. Did the post get deleted or something?Originally posted by jeofpereiraIf you guys were so bothered about performance, you should have saved up for the Ninja 250r or at least the KTM Duke 200 that is launched now.
I would not buy for example, a Splendour and then grumble that it is not hitting 200 kmph. I would instead, save up for an Inline 4 bike like a Yamaha R1!
Expectations have their place but so does research / homework and total money paid for something. You cannot pay so little for a cbr and expect the performance of a Ninja 250r (Similar cc, but a whole different machine!)
You cannot buy a pair of sport shoes from a Bata showroom and then expect it to be as good as a pair of Reeboks or Nikes! Get my drift?
On topic: I hear a loud CLUNK everytime i shift from neutral to 1st when the bike is standstill(and sometimes while moving) from day one.
IS this normal or should i get it checked at the ASC? I dont hear it all the time but maybe about 60% of the times i startup.Got a $5 head? Get a $5 helmet.
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hi friends im new to this thread
& i got my bike on 7th january at 8 pm.
i took delivery on didar motors( mount road near thousand light)
now in detail:
i went to didar at 5 pm on that day and i paid the amount nearly 1,91,337 rupees.
and wait for 30mins after that mechanic called me to choose a bike and we went to the store room there i saw more than 25+ cbr waiting for there owners to pickup.I saw a bike which was covered with some bubble like plastic cover and i tired to ignite the engine but there is no power. mechanic told me to wait and removed all the plastic cover and the seat there i saw the battery was not connected battery was sealed and laminated. he connected the battery and gave the key to me to start the engine. but the bike was not started due to petrol he filled 2 and half litre .now its starts. some body told in this thread cbr sounds like a shareauto. no its not.i took a printout which was posted by aagree (pdi .txt) it was very helpfull on that time because no one with me i went alone. after pdi i saw a small bend in the radiator fins(right side corner) and there was a small scratches on the silencer guard.mechanic corrected that bend and changed the silencer guard .we went to the workshop and gave the bike after pdi.sorry for my english
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I get the same noise as well.....what about others?Originally posted by Nithesh View PostOn topic: I hear a loud CLUNK everytime i shift from neutral to 1st when the bike is standstill(and sometimes while moving) from day one.
IS this normal or should i get it checked at the ASC? I dont hear it all the time but maybe about 60% of the times i startup.
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Thats normal, the more smoother the gears become, the more louder the sound gets. To prove my point try downshifting at higher RPM's and you'll hear the same sound. If it get's too loud then check the drive chain slack.Originally posted by Nithesh View PostOn topic: I hear a loud CLUNK everytime i shift from neutral to 1st when the bike is standstill(and sometimes while moving) from day one.
IS this normal or should i get it checked at the ASC? I dont hear it all the time but maybe about 60% of the times i startup.
As long as your happy with your ride, it doesnt matter whether the other ones are more powerful or not(I learnt that the hard way.)Originally posted by strikepackage@JOE....the ninja is lucky since CBR is not as powerful,but thts cause it was tuned in tht way.........but if it was...OH BOY!!!!.........it would have done the choke slam on the ninja........But hey i heard a upgraded version is in the pipe line........lets see...
Just consider the CBR as an upgrade to the current ZMA\ZMR thats all. The Ninja is of a whole different breed with its 2 cylinder mill, the CBR doesnt stand a chance, both on paper and on road. But dont think of it as a shortcoming, cause the CBR is a Sports Tourer and with its advanced C-ABS does its job well as one.
So once again reminding you, comparing the CBR with the Ninja would be a waste of time and is as pointless, similar scenario would be comparing the ZMA to the P220 since both are of different breeds and hence would simply over post-ulate this thread and nothing more.Motorcycling Experience:
2000 ~ 2017 Y2K Kinetic Zoom (Disposed at 15k)
2011 ~ 2015 Hero Honda Karizma R (Sold at 56.5k)
2013 ~ 2014 Bajaj Discover 100 4G (Sold at 16.5k)
2015 ~ 2017 TVS Wego (Totaled at 18k)
2015 - Bajaj Pulsar 220F (Currently 31k) < Garage Queen!
2017 - Bajaj CT100B (Currently 21k) < 'Golden Quadrilateral' Runner!
The Ride was Good, but Life is short, spend it Wisely!
Adios Comrades!
A.P. 2018
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Upgraded version?Originally posted by strikepackage@JOE....the ninja is lucky since CBR is not as powerful,but thts cause it was tuned in tht way.........but if it was...OH BOY!!!!.........it would have done the choke slam on the ninja........But hey i heard a upgraded version is in the pipe line........lets see...
so soon? Or are you referring to Joel's worked CBR?
Got a $5 head? Get a $5 helmet.
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hello.
hello everyone...
just trying to introduce myself, i m piyush from ahmedabad, have done 6000 kms on my silver std cbr. the issues i have been facing with my bike is that i get a cracking sound from my front forks whenever it passes through a little bump. i complained about the same to an ASC, they say it completely fine. but still i have that sound coming. is somebody else here who also gets the same sound...?? and what is the solution to that..??
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