Not here to fight... Cool What you said is drive through all Rev-Range in all gears.. Which is not recommended during Run-in. Even though Honda didnt give any limitations to RPM,its advisable to stay below 5K RPM during Run in.. Also do not stay in same Rpm for a longer time,Vary the RPMS constantly..

And yea wat you meant is not actually motomans method. But driving through all Rev-range is a part of it.. But you sound a Bit Rude...

About the Bold part....SO can you redline the bike right from the showroom?? not sarcastic...But i really wanted to know

Run-in a few points

1.keep rpm in check ,not the speed.
2.vary rpm contineously ,never ride in same rpm which will cause glazing of piston.
3.introduce a little high rev in the lower kms ,so the engine is introduced to jigher revs in a progressive manner wjich makes it much more free revving or open and smooth in he long run as compared to a strict slow rinned in bike
4.never ever lag in the gears,gives unwanted huge pressure on the new parts and causes early damage. Ride in the righr gear at right speeds. Avoid engine knocking situations.
5.get early engine oil changes during the first 1500kms.
6.have a wot riding once a while for the heck of it..jelps in keeping engine in good conditoon too.


Cheers
Ride safe
Krishna

I hope you understand and believe that it isn't my intention to be rude to you.

About the question in bold, most of our break in knowledge and misconceptions arise from decades old manufacturing techniques. Hence, the procedure to properly break-in an engine using the erstwhile hypothesis, is not just absurd but also juvenile. The tolerances of the mating parts used in the modern engines are so minuscule, that some of these can actually be considered race track ready right out of the factory! But just to be on the safer side, we do follow a rigorous ride-in procedure. And in our endeavor to be cautious, we should not forget the prime motive, extract the most life and performance out of the engine, while maintaining a safe equilibrium. Now, there is no definite guide to this, but only previous owners experience of what worked for them and how.

My honda has run has run over 35,000 kms in a little over an year and half, and the engine is actually more peppy and fun than the day it came out of the showroom. And yes, I did follow the exact same procedure, and I have ridden bikes of other people who meticulously followed the safe procedure, which didn't completely open up the engine.

I donot advice everyone to do the exact same thing, but I did red-line my bike right out of the showroom, but only for a couple of seconds. Hence, I am suggesting a tried and tested method of getting the maximum out of your engine, while keeping it safe in the long run. I apologize, if I have offended you, but not my intention.

had the same problem, took me little while to get used to right gears and rpm in city,

I followed a similar process except for the red line portion mentioned above.
My bike has a relatively older engine and the method provided for run in the manual is the conventional process.

Still, I preferred interacting with riders and not commuters to know about this process. Trust me, both have different perspectives.
In a nutshell, I rode the bike under 60 kmph for the 1st 100 kms. After that, I used to give a shot for 80 kmph in 5th. (5k RPM) till I reached 350 kms. First oil change.

Post 350 kms, I used to ride between 4k and 5k RPMs and used to give short bursts till 85-90 kmph till I reached 800 odd kms. There on, I started hitting 6-6.5K on the tacho. That translates to a max speed of 106 kmph. Got a second oil change (outside the SVC) at 1100 kms.

Most people stop the running in post 1000 kms, but I wanted more. Hence, I did a trip to Pondicherry from Chennai. 300 kms overall. I played across all the rev range.
I did 60 in 5th gear, 85 in 4th gear as well as 65 in 3rd gear. This translates to 4k-7.5k RPM. Redline is post 8.2k on my bike.

This way, by the time I completed 1500 kms, I was sure that the engine was set properly.

I actually red lined the bike after I completed 2500 kms on the ODO and got the 2nd official service done at the SVC.
Yes, there's a noticeable difference in my bike and other bikes which followed the manual.

It's 25k on the ODO and the clutch plates are stock. Hence, this method isn't unsafe.

Hi,
I am seeing that coolant level is showing at lower mark when bike is on stand (tilted). So, I assumed that it will be above lower mark when bike is upright and moved on.
Yesterday when it was checked with bike upright, the coolant was far above the upper mark (top level was not visible). I assume that it is above upper mark and even above the watch window to see the real level. Could you please tell me the level on your machines Or is higher level than upper level is an issue to be concerned? Thanks.

Why this Kolaveri Kolaveri!

I mean, seriously, Honda tried to make our lives easier by mentioning one, simple point about running in - "Avoid rapid acceleration and full throttle starts" (quoted from the manual). And not to forget - lugging the engine is bad.

So, why are we making it more complicated? I am sure ALL of us here are experienced bikers and all of us here can understand one simple statement mentioned in the manual, can't we? Why can't we forget all the irrelevant xyz methods floating around on the net? As long as you are not drag-racing or hypermiling, you are fine.

This is a instruction goes with every Fi bike and even in car....we should not accelerate on start of the Fi bike and car....everything is controlled thru a ECU and sensors ...

Me too planning to change my brake fluids to DOT4...couple of questions.
1. Which P220 brake pads you using? carbed version or FI version?
2. Let me know the cost of steel braided lines...for both front and rear brakes.

Let me share my way of riding here. I wait till the engine is warmed enough till the first bar comes up. Then ride it within 2-2.5K RPM till the second bar and then 3.5k RPM till third bar. After the third temp bar is up you can blast away.

Coming to run-in process, this is what I followed and I have done 8000kms without a single trouble.
1. First 500kms don't go above 5K RPM. It should do exactly 80km/hr at 5000RPM.
2. After the initial 500kms, I started to take it up till 100....120 etc. but gradually...don't twist the throttle suddenly.
3. Got my 1st service done at around 900kms. Did a constant 120km/hr once for almost 15mins.
4. Also try to vary the RPMS in various speeds. This will help the engine to settle down nicely.

Hope this helps. Its in agreement to the comments from Divya and Himanshu above. Enjoy buddy. Its difficult to be in control for the first 1000kms but then its a bliss.

Run-in
My humble opinion - "ride as per the book". It only says "avoid rapid acce....".
One thing to note is that if I start limiting the RPM and speed "too" much in running in period, then I am not doing running in but postponing the run in.
I have to ride it normally and expose it to both highway and street and I should be fine if I just follow the owner manual for for those first 500KMs, which is
basically a one liner.
These one liners are really advantageous, why?.
If we get a elaborate instruction on run-in like maintain less than certain RPM and maintain some speed etc - most of us will only use motor in one way only failing the spirit of run-in.
Run-in usage could be random and with right mixes and this diversity is important. The one liner in user manual nicely sums it up

Yours.

True. There is really no limitation on RPMs or speeds during run-in. You are free to take her to 10,000RPM or 140kph - but make sure you do it gently, and don't do it very frequently. You can take her to 9000+ RPM once in a while and let her open for a couple of seconds. That will actually help to free up the engine in the higher revs. There is only one limitation - avoid stressing the engine too much.

When I got my bike, I took her to Mysore with only 280kms on the odo. I did 120+ speeds on the highway, I took her to 8000+ RPM but she never complained, because I never pushed her too hard. It took me more than two full minutes to accelerate from 70 to 120, but again, there was no reason to hurry either. I stayed at 120 for a couple of seconds and eased off gently. Did the same thing on my way back as well.

The entire point here is: Grow up! You are with an evolved and refined engine. Don't stick to age-old myths. Just stick to the basics of Physics and Mechanics and always follow one golden rule - too much of anything is bad.

i forgot to ask about which p220 man.. .. guess its not the fi ones.. the mech told me that steel braided lines are doable ..next time i visit him will ask the price.. one thing get motul dot 4.. ..and as i don't use rear brake much i can live wid p220 pads thouch can't comment as pads are new..

Thanks Pruthviraj, but I purchased the bike from my home town satara and I stay in pune for living so was thinking of giving it to a good place in pune for first servicing. Someone from Pune, please confirm a good service center for the bike as i don`t want any issues after servicing the bike.

Run-in are always controversial!! Because with growing technology and riders it's very hard for someone to control it's ride under some xxxkmph.
As soon as we buy bike we tend to see the power and performance of the bike, which makes riders go beyond the manual procedures.

It's purely on ones heart and mind what he follows.

Even I used my R15 right from start with short burst of higher rpms, and still I am on my stock clutch plates and no engine issues.
It's almost close to 3yrs with 28K I do often tours etc... getting an average of 40 min to 46-47kmpl as per riding, no issues at all.

So no way to debate to prove who is right or wrong! Just listen to your mind over heart in this content.

Mind one thing if anyone is ready to follow path other than manual than "He should be ready for ups and downs" if needed.