Finally got my CBR delivered today

Did some jugaad work myself, a little more left for tomorrow. Might be too lame, but it never hurts to ask, I know this guy thanks to sudeepnbr who does powder coating on alloys. I though have no issues with the gray alloys, but wanted to know if it can be done on the heat shield, but I guess not since it's plastic. I want to turn the heat shield into black, any other options except stickers?


Need some help with this as well, the fuel gauge was reading 2 bars when I left the showroom and after a lot of riding was at one bar. No problems till then. But then on when I had to go elsewhere and I switched on the bike, the single bar was blinking, and then it goes back to a static one bar after a while. Some gyaan on this will help

To have close to accurate fuel level reading, the bike has to be upright with no incline/ decline. Hence, the true fuel reading is when it gets stabilized on a bar reading after riding for a small distance. Typically, the CBR shows lesser fuel reading at stationery position increases to actuals as you ride. This is exactly opposite of my earlier R15V2.0

I am going through the same situation. Had a fall...and the purple part of headlight on right side was peeled off...its been 5 months and still waiting for the part. I am literally thinking of converting the bike into black.

HOLD ON....!!! did you say 5 months... ??? send me the pic what part is damage.. i will get it for you and ship it.. or will arrange it at Honda itself....

if you want to paint the heat shield black you can use any normal paint. at it does not gets very hot and its not plastic..
many folks have got matte black done on the exhaust guard. else you can use vinyl wrap..


regardinf the Fuel meter. the bars will show diffrent when parked on side stand .Once the bike is upright and you start riding it will show you the actual level.so if it blinks and gets back to stable once u start riding that means its fine .. however if it starts blinking while you are riding.. then re-fuel at the earliest.

Does spare parts availability issues still exists ??

yes.. atleast in HYD yes.. they dont have cams, shims , and even fairing parts..
it gets more difficult for tri-colour fairing parts... worst of all many a times they dont even have chain lube ...
brake pads ....

imagine they dont stock DOT 4 . .when i asked what to do when an ABS model will need dot 4 .. they state..

sir we dint get any vehicle yet for brake fuild refill so we dont keep it..

I read on CBR250.net that the fuel sensor is pressure sensitive, i.e., it gives the output based on the weight of fuel over the sensor. That's the prime reason for the inaccurate fuel level readings. It shows the correct level only when the bike is perfectly upright and not tilted to a side - that also explains several "false reserve" blinks on the meter!

I have been filling up full tank everytime recently and have noticed that the fuel bars are not very consistent.

6th bar disappears after 30-40 km (30-40 km on trip meter)
5th bar disappears after 50 kms (80-90 on trip meter)
4th bar disappears after 50-60 kms (130-150 kms)
3rd bar disappears after 90-100 kms (220-250 kms)
2nd bar disappears after 30-35 kms (250-285 kms)
1st bar disappears and starts blinking after 40-50 kms (290-320 kms)

In a CBR 250R, the fuel level sensor is of the conventional floating arm type.


Because the float arm (swinging up and down inside the tank) is located on the right of the fuel tank (when seen from seated rider's view), the fuel level dips on the right side when the bike is on its side stand (i.e., leaning towards the left) thereby indicating one point less than actual level. This is a common phenomenon seen in most of the bikes (at least with Pulsar 150 that I have). The fuel level should always be noted when the vehicle is in its upright position (technically speaking, when the tank is horizontal for the float arm to be fed with the 'real' level).

Also, the accuracy of the sensor depends on the position of the float arm (or in other words, the level of fuel). The travel of the float arm (i.e., the angular displacement due to difference in fuel level) is used to move an electrical component within a coil (not sure it is a resistor - sorry I am not an electrical guy) which in turn modulates the current fed to the gauge. Because the tank is not a symmetrically shaped container to show the same x cm/inch of level difference for each unit difference in amount of fuel consumed, the floating arm doesn't provide the angular displacement linearly for the measurement to be taken. In the below diagram (just made it up - rough one), notice how the same 1 litre of capacity has different displacement of the float arm.


So in short, the fuel sensor becomes more accurate when the level goes down as the electrical component has more angular displacement to prorate the fuel level. This makes the fuel gauge to react more 'quickly' when the fuel level goes down. Nevertheless, I think that the fuel gauge of 250R is more linear and accurate than that of most of the commute bikes out there.

P.S: Excuse me if it was a long post.

Thanks for clearing it up @theironhouse99, @bbsrailfan and @dhuraison...I'm getting used to it now.

Btw, some DIY on the bike : The stripes extends till the fuel tank. Found some sticker shop having Carbon fibre textured stickers for 100 bucks (1ft*2ft).. And yes, that shell sticker is a patch up

Up next, some useful functional mods, let me browse the thread

That was a very informative post. Do the Thai-made CBRs use the pressure-sensitive fuel sensors?

Ha! That stripe reminds me only Apaches! BTW these vinyls are not "textured" - these are simple printed ones. The textured ones have a matte finish and are priced slightly higher.
I had enough of these local stuff. Going for the 3M ones soon.

I don't think there is anything as a pressure-sensitive fuel level sensor. The only term I can think in lines of a pressure-sensitive device in a CBR 250R would be the fuel pump. Fuel level sensors could employ either resistive, capacitive or ultrasonic principles to deduce level, of which the resistive type is the one most commonly used in automobiles.

Its not damaged bro...only the purple paint has chipped off...on the other hand everytime I visit the svc, I forget to place order for the same.

Yes, the tri-color fairing still faces scarcity. May be because these colors were produced in less numbers so the svcs don't stock the fairing parts. I also got the same feedback about DOT4 fluid. Even the service manager said the fluid is same for ABS & non-ABS models. Then I showed him the diff in fluids by the color. Then the excuse was it doesn't makes much diff whichever fluid is used.


Has anyone tried taking off the visor only. I used the CF to cover the scratches on my visor but some assholes even picked it from edges. Planning to get the visor off and then get it smoked. Even the mech said its not possible. The whole front fairing has to come off. Has anyone tried it?

Precisely what I wanted since I had an RTR before

And ya, sorry, I meant to say textured print, let me see how long it'll last.