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Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0
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Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0
since your 5th and 6th gears are limited in both stock and rd unit, it seems something else is the problem as others are also suggesting...like i said, 5th gear hits 10000 pretty much always in most stock bikes and even 6th hits 10000 not so rarely in stock bikes (again, assuming the lower gears have been optimally maxed out because shifting every lower gear to the next gear at say only 6000 or 7000RPM will limit the max RPM that the high gears will be able to attain)Originally posted by tj666 View Post
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Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0
[QUOTE=aditya_YZF-R15;1121012]since your 5th and 6th gears are limited in both stock and rd unit, it seems something else is the problem as others are also suggesting...like i said, 5th gear hits 10000 pretty much always in most stock bikes and even 6th hits 10000 not so rarely in stock bikes (again, assuming the lower gears have been optimally maxed out because shifting every lower gear to the next gear at say only 6000 or 7000RPM will limit the max RPM that the high gears will be able to attain)[/QUOTE
I shift the lower gears at 11.5k rpm with the rd unit. So with the stock it's somewhere around 10k rpm. Only the 5th and 6th gear is the problem. It's like the power is dying to break free and something is holding it back.
Sent from my SM-N9005 using xBhp Connect mobile appLast edited by tj666; 12-24-2014, 08:25 PM.
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Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0
I bet your chain and/or sprockets are either worn/not properly cleaned /over or under lubed, tension, if you're injector is clogged it would probably cause hesitation at other engine speeds, still it wouldn't hurt to clean the injector and test the flow, I would also suggest to take a look at the spark plug, valve clearance and condition/adjustment of your timing chain, then also worth changing your air filter. Other thing you could check is the decompression lever is not engaging at higher rpm's, though unlikely.
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Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0
Like I said in my earlier post, the chain and sprockets are fine. Also the spark plug was changed in the last service and that's also fine. I have no idea about valve clearance and timing chain. Need to check on that. I doubt the service people would check on this issue. Last time some guy told me that my idling is more and that he needs to adjust. I told him it's the ecu and the cold start happens for about 30 sec where it goes to 3 rpm and he was like what's an ecu! FacepalmOriginally posted by stefanm View PostI bet your chain and/or sprockets are either worn/not properly cleaned /over or under lubed, tension, if you're injector is clogged it would probably cause hesitation at other engine speeds, still it wouldn't hurt to clean the injector and test the flow, I would also suggest to take a look at the spark plug, valve clearance and condition/adjustment of your timing chain, then also worth changing your air filter. Other thing you could check is the decompression lever is not engaging at higher rpm's, though unlikely.
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Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0
Hello fellow xbhpians,
Any shop in Mumbai where I can source the following:
1) Philips blue-vision Moto 35W/35W HS1(H4)
2) Philips Ultinon T10 LED
I contacted the shops listed on Philips website but seemed to be out of luck there, rather out of stock.
Is anyone aware of shops in Lamington Road, or any other shops in that area which stock the above?
Thank you.
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Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0
Hey guys, 2 years of ownership, 20000kms ( bit slow, i know
).
>441.47 lit of fuel consumed which translates to an avg of 44 kmpl which is damn good considering my riding style.
>0 punctures till date on both tyres ( yea its the same sticky stock MRF's and it sees pretty bad roads daily )
>0 breakdowns/ repairs on its own ( except the crash i made
) It visits SVC only for service and adjustments such as chain slack/ clutch free play.
>1 set of brake pads changed, Rear at 8k kms and front at 9k kms and now running on second set. Chain and sprocket still stock
> Total maintenance cost ₹10480 ( excluding crash cost 7k and fuel cost ) with Motul 300v from 8k kms and Motul chain lube. All changed according to manual, spark plugs, airfilter... Etc
These are very impressive numbers for a bike with adequate performance. It truly is a Legend and a Masterpiece by Yamaha
Here some pics of my Baby R at 20k kms.. Still as good as a new one
Proud Owner of the Baby R
20k on ODO
Note: Its completely stock. 0 mods except for spiegler Brake line on front.
Spiegler line
Its better to sweat than bleed!! "AGATT "
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Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0
Planning to buy a used R15. What would be a good price for a 8K run bike and late 2012 model. It is completely black in colour.There is no better therapy than riding a bike down a straight road at full throttle with the sound of the engine for company.
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Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0
Before buying any second hand bike contact the nearby SVC they keep record of the service done on the bike.The best suited price would be 90k to 100k IMO.Originally posted by mustang28 View PostPlanning to buy a used R15. What would be a good price for a 8K run bike and late 2012 model. It is completely black in colour.
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Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0
Try 220's steel braided line. Its cheaper, costs only 1200/-. I've used it on my previous bike (fazer)and the difference was earth shatteringOriginally posted by Tanmay26 View PostHow is the brake line feels?
Same as stock or sharp?
I am inclined to get steel braided ones soon.
A fellow rider also used it on his R15 and it made a big change, according to him.
Sent from my GT-I9000 using xBhp Connect mobile appYamaha YZF-R15
Riding a motorcycle is like living in a video game where people are trying to kill you.
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Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0
Steel braided lines definitely improve braking performance... You'll never have the spongy feel of rubber lines. Mine is Ninja 300 spiegler lines which costs 60$ and is a direct fit for R15. If you have someone in US, ask them to get it. Its worth every penny. Else go for p220 lines as shipping them is not worthOriginally posted by Tanmay26 View PostHow is the brake line feels?
Same as stock or sharp?
I am inclined to get steel braided ones soon.Its better to sweat than bleed!! "AGATT "
sigpic
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Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0
Originally posted by christo View PostTry 220's steel braided line. Its cheaper, costs only 1200/-. I've used it on my previous bike (fazer)and the difference was earth shattering
A fellow rider also used it on his R15 and it made a big change, according to him.
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I guess P220 ones are way to go for me. 60$ is too much for me to spend on brake hoses, I am running broke tooOriginally posted by siddharthsure View PostSteel braided lines definitely improve braking performance... You'll never have the spongy feel of rubber lines. Mine is Ninja 300 spiegler lines which costs 60$ and is a direct fit for R15. If you have someone in US, ask them to get it. Its worth every penny. Else go for p220 lines as shipping them is not worth
.
----consecutive posts auto-merged-----
I am experiencing a wierd issue since past month on my 2008 r15 v1 with around 26.5k on odo, I personally service it as per manual. Bike is ridden quite hard.
I can't (almost all the time) shift to neutral from 1st. If I try harder increasing pressure, it clicks into 2nd and then I can shift to neutral. Every once in a while I can get it into neutral just as effortlessy as I used to, but thats only for 3-4 times and then again it starts as usual. It doesn't matter if bike is still or I am slowing down to stop at red light. I am using it as a commuting vehicle for now so no high revs and harsh riding since past month when it started. The performance is almost as it was.
Also I twice had a 'metal clanging' noise when I shifted to 1st from quite out of its range of speed. Ofcourse I had clutch pulled in, I shifted to first from like 40kmph as there was a yellow light where I was headed and it made a 'kutrrrrrrr' sound as if gears were grinding. I am wondering if that could be related. Also I have those clutch bell issue, pull clutch when in neutral and stand still, sound changes.
I am going to change the bell, but I am asking so that I can know if it is really urgent or it can still run.
Can anyone here point me in right direction, to where should I be digging at to pinpoint the problem?Last edited by Tanmay26; 12-25-2014, 08:10 PM.
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Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0
I just want to update that I've given the bike to the service people for replacing the tank which is under warranty and also to clean the fuel injector! Will get my bike tomorrow! Hopefully everything will be fine!
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Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0
It used to happen on my V1 too. i could be wrong but for me it was always the indication to correct the chain slackOriginally posted by Tanmay26 View PostI guess P220 ones are way to go for me. 60$ is too much for me to spend on brake hoses, I am running broke too
.
----consecutive posts auto-merged-----
I am experiencing a wierd issue since past month on my 2008 r15 v1 with around 26.5k on odo, I personally service it as per manual. Bike is ridden quite hard.
I can't (almost all the time) shift to neutral from 1st. If I try harder increasing pressure, it clicks into 2nd and then I can shift to neutral. Every once in a while I can get it into neutral just as effortlessy as I used to, but thats only for 3-4 times and then again it starts as usual. It doesn't matter if bike is still or I am slowing down to stop at red light. I am using it as a commuting vehicle for now so no high revs and harsh riding since past month when it started. The performance is almost as it was.
Also I twice had a 'metal clanging' noise when I shifted to 1st from quite out of its range of speed. Ofcourse I had clutch pulled in, I shifted to first from like 40kmph as there was a yellow light where I was headed and it made a 'kutrrrrrrr' sound as if gears were grinding. I am wondering if that could be related. Also I have those clutch bell issue, pull clutch when in neutral and stand still, sound changes.
I am going to change the bell, but I am asking so that I can know if it is really urgent or it can still run.
Can anyone here point me in right direction, to where should I be digging at to pinpoint the problem?
and clutch slack. and adjusting both instantly resulted in smooth neutral engagment from 1st gear.
if the grooves on the clutch bell are worn too much that might lead to improper engagement aswell. but since you are gonna change it any ways
just check front sprocket for good health and adjust the slack on both chain and clutch.
Hope it helps.
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Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0
I tried bleeding the front brake today, as it wasn't up to the mark.
Even after the procedure, the brake feels the same as before. I need to really jam on the lever to slow down the bike.
But the lever is stiff if you pull in(doesn't feel like there's air trapped inside). I have removed the caliper and cleaned everything too.
Don't know what's wrong here, need your thoughts here guys
.
Sent from my GT-I9000 using xBhp Connect mobile appYamaha YZF-R15
Riding a motorcycle is like living in a video game where people are trying to kill you.
Rjays swift riding jacket reviewed in detail || Cramster twister gloves reviewed
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