Yup my fan starts after ridden in 1st or second for some kilometers.... especially in traffic jams.... am at 4.4k now.

And about tappet noise, please tell it to SVC guys.

Once I tried to makr the fan start, had to rip it really hard before it started (idling for 10 mins not enough when engine is not hot already). I guess, the liquid cooling system does a good job. If you want to watch the fan working, best way without paining the bike is, try immediately after you ride the bike for few kms when the engine is already hot.

Guys, my NS's handle doesn't feel rigid. Feels like it will come off if i ride harder. Could this be as issue of the shock absorbers?? I dont think its loosely fitted.

Noise from the mask of my pulsar 200ns

This is my first post on team xbhp.
Whenever i rev my bike beyond 8000rpm there's a weird noise coming from the mask. The problem surfaces after 8000rpm only. I'm not able to figure out what the problem is and also at higher rpm's my bike vibrates a lot along with the mentioned noise.
PLease advice.

hi everybody,
I would like to know if i could fit HID+Projector headlamps in my 200NS.
and also is it ok to fit custom horns? will it affect the electric config or the battery?
What will be the best config and the price?
Please guys help me

Thanks will try out that tomorrow at home at 3000rpm..

Ya I had complained same to svc earlier, they checked radiator fan relay it was fine, radiator fan was fine, they ripped it, but fan still didnt start, they wanted to check sensor but couldn't due non availability of tool or something, so at the end they said they will change sensor, now it has been month now, but still no sensor, they telling they are havin some billing problem so they are not able to get parts, but am really afraid....i feel like my bike starts to give tappet noise when it gets too hot....Anyway waiting to 20th, will go svc on 17th, if i don't get by then will complain bajaj...I'm really afraid that tappet is harming bike in some way...Anyway hoping for the best...Anyway report me if your fan starts (preferably anyone above 4k kms)....Thanks in advance

I washed my bike for the first time last evening, thoroughly cleansed her after a full month I believe.. (I know-_-) .. Cleaned the drive chain with Diesel, and man I've never seen so much dirt & black filthy stuff coming out of anything. Had more than half a liter Diesel & by the time I finished cleaning the chain, it was so thick & black with all the dirt. Anyways, I lubed chain with OKS chain lube & I can now feel that Tail vibrations have reduced ALOT after this, almost no major vibrations on the pillion seat & tail section. I wish I had known about this fact earlier on.. Riding overall feels smoother as expected & it seems the gear shifting has also gotten smoother ?

Lol I felt something today. NS is a stunning looking bike as we know & it's an attraction puller.. which is both good & bad for the bike itself. However, best way to keep it safe in public places is to keep it quite dirty & just visually ill maintained instead of neat & clean bright as new..

@everyone
What exactly is this tappet sound? Can anyone please enlighten me I don't think so my bike make any weird noise so I don't know anything about it

ever heard a sewing machine working?? that kinda sound from engine...

Why the sad face then, it's a good thing you know , that the tappets don't make sound. It makes sound when its timing is off or the tappets are loose. Its what controls the valve clearance.
Generates a ryhtamic tcik tick sound when the issue comes up. Regular valve clearnces should make sure that the sound never comes.

Cheers
Ride Safe
Krishna

Exactly...its actually frightening to see from a distance that people hovering around the bike.

Yes exactly what @Krishna mentioned. Its the valve stem going into the valve shaft (i think so) and if the clearance is not correct then the noise comes. In neutral rev your bike and then as revs are lowering keep an ear for a fast "kat kat" sound like that from a sewing machine.

So Bajaj considers the existing customers as rats then!! (used in lab for experimenting)

True Delphi unit sucked big time...

Apologies, it was indeed Delphi and not Bosch the Fi on RTR 160...

Will try it first thing in the morning just to confirm.

thank you for the info, no way my bike makes that noise

understood

I was so shocked that how come BOSCH product failed like that now it feels some what right

As per the factory tuning the bike is got 32kmpl after the tunning done by local mechanic its giving 35 in highway i got 43kmpl @ top speed in that is 140kmph like to tune the bike as per the local man because they are not taking proper care of my bike SVC..... like to fit filter from BMC or KN because i'm facing low in all sgment like lowend,midend,topend the factory seetings didn't help me please provide me proper airfilter for my bike BMC or KN

I'm currently using Nissin steel braided lines both front and rear. Thing with hydraulic braking system (or any other hydraulic system for that matter), is that there shouldn't be any air bubble in the line, else it would loose it's feel. Even a single air bubble makes a hell lot of difference. I've personally seen my mech setting up a brand new Pulsar 220 brake and take out air bubbles from it. It's a pain staking job for the mech, but every bit worth it and absolutely necessary. I'm pretty sure all of us know this fact. With steel braided lines you get extra bite when you apply the brake, because it doesn't tend to expand because of the hydraulic pressure being applied by the brake fluid from inside and therefore you get a very precise and instantaneous braking feedback. I still remember, that fitting the brake lines took just 10 mins, but it took a good 45 mins to set both the front and rear up to it's highest performance level. I also switched to Dot4 oil and that also helps. So, the crux of the effort is, it does not matter which steel braided lines you are using, it all depends on how well the calibration is done.

On the question of doing the same for the rear brake... well as I've said in my review of the 200NS, I personally believe to have power in my disposal than not having it. Having said that, believe me when I'm saying this, you would like to have power when you hit that rear brake of yours, because a proper and safe braking technique involves power, feedback and performance from both the brakes (unless and until your motorcycle is having something of the sorts of C-ABS of CBR1000RR). There have been countless occasions when I slammed the rear brake (after the mod to steel braided lines ofcource), the wheel locked, moved outside and that saved the day for me. So, it's better to have power and not use it, than to have no power when needed. Also, having good feedback from the brakes helps me in improving my riding to, because now I can brake harder and much much late while entering into corners, because I know that I have all the right things at the right place in the form of good brakes, amazing chassis and a stiff suspension setup and also I can bang into a corner when ever I get the opportunity. So, basically it's all being done towards achieving one ultimate goal - MAKING RIDES FUN EACH TIME I RIDE!! and that's why we all love to ride bikes isn't it.

I did take a couple of pictures yesterday evening while returning from office, but couldn't upload it. Now from office I can't upload the pics anyways coz it's blocked. I'll try to reply back to this post with the pics (sorry for the delay)

Do let me know if any more information is needed.

You can call me on my mobile if you feel the need - +91 9818991670

Pulsar 200NS released today in Sri lanka.

Price is 419,000/= LKR (180,170/= INR)