Pulsar 200NS released today in Sri lanka.

Price is 419,000/= LKR (180,170/= INR)

I'm currently using Nissin steel braided lines both front and rear. Thing with hydraulic braking system (or any other hydraulic system for that matter), is that there shouldn't be any air bubble in the line, else it would loose it's feel. Even a single air bubble makes a hell lot of difference. I've personally seen my mech setting up a brand new Pulsar 220 brake and take out air bubbles from it. It's a pain staking job for the mech, but every bit worth it and absolutely necessary. I'm pretty sure all of us know this fact. With steel braided lines you get extra bite when you apply the brake, because it doesn't tend to expand because of the hydraulic pressure being applied by the brake fluid from inside and therefore you get a very precise and instantaneous braking feedback. I still remember, that fitting the brake lines took just 10 mins, but it took a good 45 mins to set both the front and rear up to it's highest performance level. I also switched to Dot4 oil and that also helps. So, the crux of the effort is, it does not matter which steel braided lines you are using, it all depends on how well the calibration is done.

I'm currently using Nissin steel braided lines both front and rear. Thing with hydraulic braking system (or any other hydraulic system for that matter), is that there shouldn't be any air bubble in the line, else it would loose it's feel. Even a single air bubble makes a hell lot of difference. I've personally seen my mech setting up a brand new Pulsar 220 brake and take out air bubbles from it. It's a pain staking job for the mech, but every bit worth it and absolutely necessary. I'm pretty sure all of us know this fact. With steel braided lines you get extra bite when you apply the brake, because it doesn't tend to expand because of the hydraulic pressure being applied by the brake fluid from inside and therefore you get a very precise and instantaneous braking feedback. I still remember, that fitting the brake lines took just 10 mins, but it took a good 45 mins to set both the front and rear up to it's highest performance level. I also switched to Dot4 oil and that also helps. So, the crux of the effort is, it does not matter which steel braided lines you are using, it all depends on how well the calibration is done.

On the question of doing the same for the rear brake... well as I've said in my review of the 200NS, I personally believe to have power in my disposal than not having it. Having said that, believe me when I'm saying this, you would like to have power when you hit that rear brake of yours, because a proper and safe braking technique involves power, feedback and performance from both the brakes (unless and until your motorcycle is having something of the sorts of C-ABS of CBR1000RR). There have been countless occasions when I slammed the rear brake (after the mod to steel braided lines ofcource), the wheel locked, moved outside and that saved the day for me. So, it's better to have power and not use it, than to have no power when needed. Also, having good feedback from the brakes helps me in improving my riding to, because now I can brake harder and much much late while entering into corners, because I know that I have all the right things at the right place in the form of good brakes, amazing chassis and a stiff suspension setup and also I can bang into a corner when ever I get the opportunity. So, basically it's all being done towards achieving one ultimate goal - MAKING RIDES FUN EACH TIME I RIDE!! and that's why we all love to ride bikes isn't it.

I did take a couple of pictures yesterday evening while returning from office, but couldn't upload it. Now from office I can't upload the pics anyways coz it's blocked. I'll try to reply back to this post with the pics (sorry for the delay)

Do let me know if any more information is needed.

You can call me on my mobile if you feel the need - +91 9818991670

Whoaaaa that's a hefty price tag!!

I tried sending you a PM but ur mail box is full hence it could not go through.

Can you let me know the address / contact of the mechanic who did the work?

there is a 100% import tax for bikes. so bike cost like small car

Hi Guys,

I have been following this thread for some time. (read: a long time :P)
I had a p150 2003 model. I absolutely hated the model for its bad handling, riding quality, etc. and even got myself hurt in (simple incidents where a normal braking caused the tyres to skid and falling off)which made me pulsar-hater for life.

I sold it off some 4 months back at whatever price I got because frankly I wanted to get rid of that bike.

p200ns fits perfectly into my requirement of both city and touring requirements. The only thing that stops me is the name BAJAJ and PULSAR. I am still confused whether to go ahead and buy this bike. I can see issues cropping up in the bike like tuning issues, vibrations, etc. Are these issues major or are sorted by the end of run-in period??

The 200NS is every bit worth the dime. There are issues in every bike (imports included). I've heard bolts of Fireblade stuck using Faviquick, Ducati Monster's Piston blowing out of the Engine head!! So, don't worry about those small issues. The 200NS does not have major issues. It's only that I personally feel that the 200NS needs service more frequently than what the manual says. For example, after the first service at 500km the 2nd service is at 5000km. I would say, get the bike service before that to enjoy it fully, because the concept of "optimum condition" is like a mermaid in India, you always keep on hearing about it, but the reality is entirely different

Thanks a lot for advice! One the major points I have seen posted here, is the AFR tuning issue. Keep it in factory settings or you have to tune it to get the right blend? Because my old Pulsar had a big-time Tuning issue. Once I let go of the throttle..boom..it stopped....

The factory setting of the NS is on the richer side. During 1st Service generally it's tuned to be a bit leaner, they try to keep it between 2-2.5 (for the sake of mileage oriented janta... nothing wrong in being mileage oriented though). So, it might be the case (as happened with me), that post 1st service you start feeling vibes, engine stalling every now and then (man I still remember that it stalled once I was in full lean.. it's just that the NS handles so so well that saved the day for me). So, I went back to the service center and asked them to keep it between 2.5-3 and since then everything has been a bliss.

Thanks csajal for the link for Iqbal's auto station. And yes i read about this guy earlier when i was having problems with my old bike, but never went to this person though. But now will give it a shot.

Also from which service station did you get the tuning done? I also want to get my bike tuned.

The numbers that you have mentioned above 2.5-3 i think they are CO% right? Do they have any specific equipment for measring the CO levels? Earlier it was on the richer side i guess since i was getting an average of only 34-37 kms city riding condition. But recently during 2nd service the mechanic at bajaj fiddled with the AFR and i think he made it leaner due to which the engine keeps shutting at mornings, now this could also be due to the engine oil which is of 20W50 grade. Earlier i had 15W50 and was not having such problems.

I'm currently using Nissin steel braided lines both front and rear. Thing with hydraulic braking system (or any other hydraulic system for that matter), is that there shouldn't be any air bubble in the line, else it would loose it's feel. Even a single air bubble makes a hell lot of difference. I've personally seen my mech setting up a brand new Pulsar 220 brake and take out air bubbles from it. It's a pain staking job for the mech, but every bit worth it and absolutely necessary. I'm pretty sure all of us know this fact. With steel braided lines you get extra bite when you apply the brake, because it doesn't tend to expand because of the hydraulic pressure being applied by the brake fluid from inside and therefore you get a very precise and instantaneous braking feedback. I still remember, that fitting the brake lines took just 10 mins, but it took a good 45 mins to set both the front and rear up to it's highest performance level. I also switched to Dot4 oil and that also helps. So, the crux of the effort is, it does not matter which steel braided lines you are using, it all depends on how well the calibration is done.

On the question of doing the same for the rear brake... well as I've said in my review of the 200NS, I personally believe to have power in my disposal than not having it. Having said that, believe me when I'm saying this, you would like to have power when you hit that rear brake of yours, because a proper and safe braking technique involves power, feedback and performance from both the brakes (unless and until your motorcycle is having something of the sorts of C-ABS of CBR1000RR). There have been countless occasions when I slammed the rear brake (after the mod to steel braided lines ofcource), the wheel locked, moved outside and that saved the day for me. So, it's better to have power and not use it, than to have no power when needed. Also, having good feedback from the brakes helps me in improving my riding to, because now I can brake harder and much much late while entering into corners, because I know that I have all the right things at the right place in the form of good brakes, amazing chassis and a stiff suspension setup and also I can bang into a corner when ever I get the opportunity. So, basically it's all being done towards achieving one ultimate goal - MAKING RIDES FUN EACH TIME I RIDE!! and that's why we all love to ride bikes isn't it.

I did take a couple of pictures yesterday evening while returning from office, but couldn't upload it. Now from office I can't upload the pics anyways coz it's blocked. I'll try to reply back to this post with the pics (sorry for the delay)

Do let me know if any more information is needed.

You can call me on my mobile if you feel the need - +91 9818991670

hey, thanks for the beautiful reply, thinking to go for bybre's steel braided lines of duke, as it will be available easily in my city (comparatively) and bajaj probiking showroom of my city belongs to same owner who owns bajaj showroom, and their service centre has good communication with each other and i feel they have good experience bleeding of disk brake oil....so thinking to go thr to get it done as i don't know good mechanic in my city....anyway thanks a lot..

Anyway anyone idea about what this is??

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