Dude p200 ns has same spark plugs as p220 go for p 220 "s g power plugs...
2 slave plugs... Master plug is still stock (bosch company) :-)

Yea absar khan you can go for any semi synthetic ... Till 10k after that fully synthetic recommended...

Very much you can.. I changed to 3100 Gold right from first service..

Just got my 2nd service done at 2871kms. Finally my bike got Motul 5100 15w50, I had planned to give my bike Motul 5100 earlier but I cancelled it. As expected there was hiccup .. SVC guys started arguing that Bajaj recommends 20w50 grade while 5100 is 15w50.. that my warranty will be void unless Bajaj genuine oil is used etc etc. But after I pressurized alot they agreed. Not much else done, something done to Chain, also lubed & regular checking/cleaning of bike. Also CO levels were checked. that's about it. Just a few things I'd like to say
I can feel the gear shifting is smoother ofc, a minor positive change in overall riding. Motul sort of oil also helps in power delivery I heard ? I think I feel it lol but not sure. Just happy to know my bike is now running on a very trusted brand, Motul!
Mechanic's work on the Chain had a side effect, it's now too tight it seems & the front sprocket is making an audible kat kat noise.. can be easily heard when rotating rear tire. I thought of taking it back to SVC immediately.. but i said screw it just ride like this & may be the chain will loosen up slightly & sound will be gone. However, due to this I think the footpegs are starting to vibrate, not crazy vibs but alot.
Few weeks ago I got my CO levels checked they were like 2.07 ?? Today when he was testing it turned out to be 3.60 something again ? How does it increase by itself. The Mechanic seemed to have trouble rotating the AFR screw but after a few retries he managed to set it back to 2.0 something.
nonetheless.. my NS is running alright, running great infact. Happy!

But how much will I rate the work of my Service center ? 4/10 Poor. I examined these people today from the waiting room, watched all the work on my bike in front of my eyes.. Just poor man.

the NS has the same spark plugs for both slave...i thought the 220 has 2 different plugs for left and right....as NGK india site recommends 2 different plugs for the left and right

after the current plugs age i'll go for them..not now..

well i unlike u had tuned my bike towards a half turn rich and the power delivery was great and no vibes...it turned out my CO% was 9 %
earlier it was set to 2% and half a turn made it 9% and i was quite shocked...the vibes in the bike and all do rotate the afr screw by very little turns...it becomes a significant turn over long time...and there are various other factors....

i know vibes turn the screws and bolts towards the outter side because i have seen it myself..well may be not on a bike but on other stuff...like a toy car i made 2 years back in my engg college...an almost tight bolt loosened up and the wheel just came off after half an hour of operation...

i shifted to moul 3000 in my second service (15W50)...the engin sure has become smooth and the noise has reduced but i dont see any other performance gain or smoother power delivery..infact power delivery wise i liked the dtsi oil better(i hope the ppl in the thread dont thrash me for this)..may be it was because i was running very rich on the dtsi oil and now on the motul its just around a perfect mixture

I PUT CR9EGP LEFT SIDE AND CR8EGP ON RIGHT SIDE ... Perfectly fit.. I check my p200ns and p220"s spark plugs(stock -champion)they both are same
(in pix left side p220"s spark plug and right side my new p200ns"s plug)

P200NS
With Rear Tyre Hugger vs Without Tyre Hugger ...?
Need opinion... :-)

@vaibhav93

ngk recommends 2 different types of spark plug for p220. so i thought the p220 has 2 different spark plugs
but NS has the same spark plug for both the slave...so i thought we cannot use NGK recommendation of p220 on NS

Anyone noticed speed limits mentioned in the p220 manual
for 0-1000km
1st gear-15
2nd gear-30
3rd gear-45
4th gear-55
5th gear-65

for 1001-2000km
1st gear-20
2nd gear-40
3rd gear-55
4th gear-65
5th gear-75


Then why the hell did BAL give such crazy running in speed limits for NS?

Well the worst part is that in the NS the limit from 1000kms to 2000kms increase a mere 6 kms i.e from 48 to 54!! i dont know what their engineers were thinking, werent they confident in the product they made? Whats the run-in limit on the KTM any idea?

i ddint get to see any indian duke200 manual but the online manual for ktm duke 200 for europe says running in period only 1000kms and the restriction given is maintain engine speed within 7500 rpm

considering our speed limits the rpm comes to about 3.5k rpm for first 1000 kms and then a little less than 4k rpm for next 1000 kms

I want to change my stock tyres... any suggestions and i don't wanna lose my mileage, speed etc

It's a common practice to mention very low running-in speeds. Of course, the manufacturers aren't dumb because they were the ones who designed the bike in the first place. Another quicker yet less safe (when it comes to speed) method is the motoman's method which suggests a good workout for the engine at all revs. Suppose the manufacturers print the motoman's run-in speeds and rpms in the manual, many foolhardy owners might go crazy with their bikes and might end up hurting others on the road and themselves, let alone damaging the engine by applying their misinterpretation of the manual. There's no condition to follow the manual speeds but yes, they are overkill.
If anyone asks me how to run-in their engine, I'd simply tell them to ride normally (read as sanely) and try to NEVER lug the engine. Revving up high is necessary but not everytime you find free space in front of you.

@all, this morning, I removed the RH spark plug and found it to be like this:

And coincidentally now I find this thread filled with spark plug related discussions. My query is, what does the colour indicate? It's a kind of dusty brown not very uniformly deposited (I mean I can still find some places undeposited) which is unlikely because I am running rich. And the clearance between the electrodes is roughly 1mm. My dad said it's too much and that it should be ~0.5mm. I have NEVER had cold start troubles or misfires and my bike gives a mileage of 37km/l under mixed conditions. The plug is 6600 kms old. Is my dad right or wrong?

P.S the pic was clicked from a 2MP phone camera so please bear with the focus and clarity.

Another query which I'd like to post,
My bike's carburettor is tuned to the richer side and it's pretty well evident from the low end pull I get when I twist the throttle. A rich mixture means low F.E but a few days back, I rode continuously for ~100 kms with a pillion at a constant speed of 65 km/h and yet I got a mileage of 53 km/l for the journey. How is that possible?! When I ride the bike at rpms >5k in the city, I still get 37 km/l. I expected ~30 but this has completely swept me off the ground. Is this bike that good?!

usually a brown color on the electrode means more or less a perfect mixture...black means rich...(i was running 9% CO and the electrodes were pitch black)

if they are whitish that means u are running lean...so dont mes up ur tuning its fine...

manual recommends 0.7-08mm...i guess 0.5 will be too less....adjust the gap only a slight lesser than current setting


Well we ae not asking BAL to post motoman on their manuals....but if they can put up realistic speeds on the 220...why not on the NS?

people who are sane will stll ride sanel even if the manufacturer puts up motoman method..and people who WANT to ride the motoman way will ride it..irrespective of what the manual says..left are the confused lot in the middle who dont know how to run in..the sane or the insane way and hence would love if the speeds were more realistic...

the 220 is obviously not the best bike right now BAL is manufacturing and the NS is any day ahead of its sibling in every aspect...still the 220 gets a speed limit of 65 on top gear but we get 48 on top gear...this is stupidity...hence the discussion...