That's awesome performance from a battery , as GS battery powers digital speedo , LED lights & blinkers , horn with electric start , battery is always in complete cycle of operation.
.Avoid so called maintanance free ones , regular battery doesn't require that chunk of maintainance as anticipated , just topping distilled water is enough tokeep it going tht too at extended intervals , maintenance free batteries may or may not last , my brother who owned dazzler from honda had terrible time with factory fitted maintainance free battery , every year(under 1 year) battery was supposed to be changed as a part of routine maintainance , finally the bike was sold due to these faults.
After 1 year and 21,800 kms odo , my gs battery is in gem of condition ( in fact my whole bike is..)
Exide is good if taken from authorised distributors with warranty terms ( their are suppliers who can give refurbished battery ), again a problem of every were availability just like castrol oil.
Amaron is good can try it out if price not very high.can try other's too if authorised supplier is nearby and who can give high warranty period .

My GS crossed another mile stone. 80,000 KMS in 44 Months. Giving it for servicing this coming Monday. Will update. Five years down the line, Suzuki has not even updated the GS except for some stickering. Already half of die hard Suzuki fans have left the stable with remaining half slowly leaving. Planning for next year, Apache 180 ABS or Pulsar 200 NS or any other bike with Rear Disc option for Rs.90,000/-

Re: Suzuki GS150R

80K! Man that's something! Congrats! Touch one lakh soon and let us know if the digits roll over and start from 0 or starts the 6th digit ;-)
On a serious note, can you provide a small note on all the maintenance work done on the bike so far?

Got the clutch worked on yesterday. All the required parts were replaced under warranty.
Gear shifts are a lot smoother now and I no longer get the loud clunking noise when shifting. Shifts are still a little notchy for my liking but nothing worse than other competing bikes.

My GS is just 100 days old. I park it at my residence in well covered area. I live in Delhi-Ghaziabad border area (Ramprastha to be precise). But, in the morning on many occasions I have to kick start it after applying 4 to 6 kicks. On self start there is just no sound. (As a regular habbit I start it by kick start every day in the morning and while returning from office, although inbetween on red lights it switch it off and start with self start and I don't face any starting problem then). Till now I have got it serviced at Suzuki twice on due dates. Should I take it to the service centre ?

I am putting up this query to all of you as I might be go to extreme heights in Himalayas on this bike in April/May and I am quite apprehensive of facing starting problem there.

The ODOMeter is a Five Digit one. Once it crosses 99,999 it will roll over to 00000. Average Service cost is around 800. Initially for the frist 30,000 KMS I gave it servicing at every 2,500 KMS. AFter 30,000 KMS, I am giving it servicing at every 4,000 KMS. The only major thing replaced are the front tyre @ 55,000 KMS and rear tyres @ 50,000 Kms. Had a small accident. Replaced the front Mudguard and the platic covering around the headlamp. Other than these,

Engine Oil with Nulon additive,
Clutch Cable (around 3 times - once in warranty)
Air Filter, Oil Filter,
Front and Rear Brake Pads, (Front Pad lasts around 20,000 Kms; Rear around 28,000 Kms)
Front Brake Oil
Chain Sprocket (4 Times)
Petrol Tank replaced thrice due to rusting under warranty (even the fourth one has started rusting)
Clutch Lever once
Spark Plug (Twice)
Front Fork Oil (once @ 50,000 KMS)

Brakes do not inspire confidence during high speed braking. In gear accleration is very poor with pillon. Had to shift to third gear or second gear while on slope. Average milage has been around 45 KMPL. I always fill 16 Liters and reset the Trip Meter A to Zero. Once the fuel lever starts blinking, the trip meter shows around 690 KMS. Service by Dr. Rajkumar Road Suzuki has been excellent with minor complaints (not washed properly). One Major Complaint, rear chain sprocket came off with all nuts in the chain case, one nut got struck between the chain and sprocket. Luckily there was a small garage, removed the nut, and took it to service centre. Replaced the entire chain sprocket and got a small discount on the chain sprocket.

I have taken AMC for one year. Cost is Rs.1,000/-. Got discounts on spares - 10%, labour charges %% . Without AMC they charge Rs.350/- for washing

Very reliable Bike. Marketed very badly by Suzuki. They endorse Salman Khan for a shitty bike Haytee and not for GS 150. No hope for suzuki.

Vikshe,
I am sorry for not mentioning the parts I have replaced correctly.
1. It was the piston in the master cylinder or brake fluid reservoir; not the piston in the cylinder. And the brake calliper pistons and O rings too were replaced.
2. The nuts were those small nuts on the master cylinder cap.

Seems the battery was not fully charged at the time of delivery of your bike. It gets charged partially while you ride and you can use the self start facility then.
Get it properly charged at the SC. A fully charged 12 volts battery shows 12.7 volts after resting for at least 6 hours. Refit the battery and see how it performs in the next morning.
You can do a current leakage test with a digital multi-meter in DC ampere mode. After fitting the battery, switch off ignition, remove the –ve connection of battery, connect the +ve probe of the meter to –ve terminal of the battery and connect the –ve probe to the wire you have already removed from the battery or to the body of the bike so that the electric circuit is completed. If the leakage shown in the meter is more than 50 mA, there is a shorting in the wiring harness which needs to be checked. Checking the wiring harness for shorting is not easy as we think.

Congratulations for completing 80,000 kms on GS. Your experience itself assures that GS is a trouble free bike.
Oil additives – whether Nulon or any other – are basically friction modifiers. Nulon is adding PTFE (Polytetrafluoroethylene) in their oil additive for this purpose. We are not discussing whether Teflon is good for the engine or not and hence let us leave it. The only difference between JASO MB and JASO MA (JASO MA was further divided in to MA 1 and MA 2) is that JASO MB contains friction modifiers in it. In bikes where the engine and gear box is lubricated by the same oil, these modifiers result clutch slippage.
Perhaps this may be one reason for the low FE of your bike. If you are adding Nulon for smoother riding or better mileage, try fully synthetic oil.

pardon for delayed reply but cound't help posting ,I can understand difference between eco and power or no mode on basis of fuel consumption and ride,in no mode bike feels smoothest, difference in power/eco is less felt apart from FE and annoying 4,500 rpm flash LED , most of previous discussions were agreed to be these modes as only indicative for FE , gear shifting, performance hardly matters.
but picking up last mode of either Eco/ Power when running in No mode is doubt full as our mechanic confirmed that in no mode carburetor performs as normal so fuel flow is not restricted at higher speeds , it is comfortable to gun the bike in no mode than power mode or eco mode.but one thing is sure this bike has better FE than other 150cc's in Eco mode at least under any driving condition , i had driven almst 80 % of time in eco mode and achieving 55 plus FE all the time in any drivivng conditions like traffic , high speed busts , low gear driving for substantial period , remaining shifting to power or no mode if going for long rides with heavy loads.

Thanks, Ya the Bike is trouble free. After sales service by Dr. Raj Kumar Road Suzuki is excellent. I was hoping that Suzuki would introduce a Rear Brake as an option. But I don't see that happening in the near future. Suzuki is one hopeless Bike manufcturer in India. I will wait till March next year and decide

Hi all ... I am new to xbhp
I have been following this thread for quite some time, even before buying the GS..... matter of factly this thread has also contributed towards me going for the GS.

My GS is almost a year old now ..... ODO 1700(yap just 1700 .... ). Its my first bike and like it for many reasons.

Initially i felt that the suspension was on the harder side and i had read somewhere that the hard setting was needed for the handling of the bike.
recently I noticed that my bikes rear shocks have been becoming softer day by day and now it seems the bike is really bouncy with a pillion,

Did anyone hear or experience such a problem with our steeds? ... any suggestion or inputs?.

i do plan on bringing it to the notice of the ASC guys during next service ...
Could it be a problem with the gas charge on the suspension? .... also did not see any oil leakages near suspension
do the ASC guys have the equipment to fill gas (nitrogen is it?) into the canister... i.e. if that is the issue?

I do sometimes have face nasty speed breakers .... meant for trucks on port highways .... plus the potholed roads

March next year is 13 months away and you have a lot of time to take final decision on which bike to buy.

Throughout the 80,000 kms of ride, nothing in your brake system except the pads and brake fluid is replaced. Then there is a possibility of poor performance of the front brake due to worn out parts or air in the brake hose. Brake bleeding is not easy as the mechanics do or we read on the internet.

As the front brake of my bike is in good condition and considering the weight, power, maximum attainable true speed etc and the kerb weight of the bike transferred to front wheel while braking, I prefer drum brake in the rear to disc as I don’t like to fall due to rear wheel locking. This is my personal opinion formed from escaping many critical situations and falling down once on gravel road with the present brake combination. And I request to compare the designing and hence the biting power of front and rear disc brakes on other 150 or higher cc bikes.

Total parts of your bike replaced in 80’000 kms are very few. Yet you are complaining that Suzuki is not updating GS for the last five years.

The possibility of successful marketing of a higher cc bike here is doubtful or let Suzuki decide what to do. Here I presume that you and some others are expecting one or more badge engineered bike with slight modifications on the engine or body of GS as done by Hero Honda with CD100’s engine or as Yamaha marketing at least 4 bikes with the same engine or another company marketing a 10 years ago abandoned engine in another name. Besides these you can see many other badge engineered bikes in our market. Before blaming Suzuki for not following this ugly, yet correct marketing practice with GS’s engine, please find out a little time to compare the specifications of bikes on our roads. On a close observation, you may perhaps find out bikes of different companies using the same engine. Such a comparison will, at least, be helpful in selecting your next bike.

Now check the condition of the front brake of your bike. If it is in good shape, it is enough for an ordinary biker to stop safely.


I think this feeling about the softness is natural or the after effect of reading about the necessity of adjusting the suspension for handling the bike.

First of all, never believe everything you read on the internet blindly. Next, you can easily adjust the hardness of the suspension yourself. Please refer to page 2-28 of the user’s manual to know how to make it harder.

Why I was venting my anger on Suzuki is that whenever I park my GS in a parking a Lot, I see more of Pulsar, FZ, CBZ tribe. GS is a wonderful bike. I was not excepting a badge engineering as done by others My wish was just for DC Electrical, Rear Disc as an option and slightly more power which will make GS even better. The only bike that I have selected is apache 180 ABS. but the bike is shorter and also is forward position which is not that comfortable. I feel comfortable on my GS for my height including pillion (I travel around 70 - 90 kms in mad traffic a day).

What you said about front brake bleeding is true. Initially the bite was good. two years later i replaced brake fluid. From that day, the performance of brakes was not that good as of factory setting. Another problem is Service Centre. For entire bangalore city there are about 5 showrooms. My nearest service centre is 30 Kms from my home. So giving it service is a full day job. With more sales, more showrooms will come up. There is another showroom located in yelahanka which is around 12 kms. I am yet to try that service centre.

Thanks for the Nulon tip. This time I will not put Nulon in Engine oil and then check the mileage. Hopefully Suzuki will give us surprise by March 2013.

After reading your previous post, I guessed correctly that the front brake of your bike is not in good condition. The mechanics usually removes the master cylinder lid, loosens the drain bolt after fitting a piece of plastic tube on it, drains the entire brake fluid allowing air to enter the brake hose, pours fresh brake fluid in the master cylinder and presses and releases the brake lever a few times while tightening/loosening the drain bolt and hand over the bike to you. A major portion of the air in the brake system remains trapped in it resulting poor braking.
Brake bleeding is an easy job which you can do yourself without the help of mechanic. Buy 250 ml brake fluid of BOSCH or CASTROL or any other reputed brand except TVS-Girling and KBX. If you are a devotee of DOT4, buy it. Otherwise, DOT3 is enough. After that, please send me a message.
Many of the GS owners here have already converted their bikes to full DC. Try that.

Why so ? Is there any compatibility issues or something else I need to know ?
Please post your method to bleed the brakes.

No compatibility issues; I guess. The reason may be the difference in the additives added but I am not sure about it. I have tried DOT 4 of TVS-Girling and KBX and DOT 3 of Castrol and Bosch recently and result wise the first two were far inferior.
I have no special brake bleeding method other than removing maximum air from the brake line.