Well i did not read about adjusting the suspension of the GS for handling on the internet ..... more like someone complaining that the suspension of the GS was hard ..... and someone else replying that it was necessary.

I will check the manual again as i do not remember the whole thing ..... but from the top of my head i think they just mentioned that the notch of the suspension needs to be changed ....I did try it one day .... but it did not seem as easy ........ i think the tension in the recoil springs makes it rather difficult.

Thanks though ..... If you do find anything else on this do let me know ....

I have used TVS-Giriling DOT 3 by just replacing the old fluid(also DOT 3) from the master cylinder using a small syringe on a regular basis and can't complain.Instead of bleeding and flushing out the entire system every two years,replacing the fluid in the master cylinder once in a year seems to be my choice.

On the other note TVS giriling 100ml(DOT 3) costs Rs.30 whereas castrol 250ml(DOT 4) costs Rs.120/-.

The factory setting of the spring pre-load adjuster is at position 3. Adjusting it to position 1 or 2 from the top makes it softer and to 4 or 5, harder. If you – not your friends or well wishers as you are the regular rider and your own comfort is important - feel the present setting is softer or harder, adjust it using the clamp wrench (No. 10 shown on page 6-6 of the manual) according to your need. Adjusting the spring pre-load with that clamp wrench is easy and remember to adjust both the shock absorbers to the same setting.

That feeling of better braking is because you are filling air/moisture free fresh fluid when the brake is in a worse condition and is same as we feel when fresh oil is filled. Reaching to poor braking is gradual and the change to good braking is sudden and you feel it.
I cannot say anything about replacing the brake fluid partially as you do but the air or moisture in the brake line is trapped in the hose; not in the master cylinder. Hence I am suspicious about the result of that process.

250 ml of Castrol DOT 3 costs Rs. 95/-, Bosch DOT 3 Rs. 90/-, TVS Girling DOT 4 Rs. 93/- and KBX DOT 4 Rs. 80/-. Don’t know about Castrol DOT 4 as it is not available here in my town but if it is Rs. 120/- as you said, the excess you pay for 250 ml fluid is less than Rs.40/- and that too once in a year or in two years.

Replace the fluid completely with Bosch or Castrol DOT 4 or 3 next time and let us see what the difference is.

How do you know its a 5 digit one? I see space for the 6th digit and it gets filled up when I use the trip meter. So why not the odometer?

Your GS is probably the highest run in the forum. Good to see the reliability. So many KM done with so less part replacements and mileage still intact. Good going.
If the company provides a rear disc brake then they need to provide a better tyre. The current one skids like crazy with drum brakes itself. So mostly they wont as the current tyre is pretty cheap and it lasts really long.

I weigh close to 100 KG. In the Eco mode, the bike does not touch 100. Or if it does by some slope then it feels really out of breath. In power, its so easy to touch 100 and cruise in it. If I select the no mode after Eco, then it struggles to touch 100. In no mode after power, it cruises at 100 with ease. So I still think these change the ignition mapping.

Besides my query on page 1745 regarding starting problem (sometimes) as I have to apply kicks 4-6 times in the morning although the bike is parked in well covered basement, the second problem I am constantly facing is that I have to tighten my clutch cable every week and now after just after 3-1/2 months of purchasing it, there is no space left to further tigthen it. What could be the reason ? Has any other person faced same problem ?

If you actually feel this difference in Power and Economy modes, ride in Economy mode for good fuel efficiency and change to Power mode when speed is necessary. You can change the mode as per your need at low rpm – I have done it but don’t remember the exact rpm now – without stopping the bike.
My bike is in the Power mode from the day I bought it to avoid the irritating blinking of the rpm indicator in night.

I cannot understand why or for what betterment you are playing with the clutch lock nuts or other parts of your bike as some spoiled adolescents in the other ownership threads here do on their bikes gifted by their parents. The value of something purchased with hard earned money is different compared to the same product accepted as gift.

Get the clutch cable adjusted by the mechanic at the SC with 10-15 mm play as shown on page 6-26 of the manual. Ask them to tighten the nuts properly that it does not get loose while you ride and wipe off the words ‘clutch adjustment’ from your memory.

Dear Punarvasu,

It seems you did not read my query correctly.

I had to adjust the clutch wire almost every week as the "play in the clutch lever" used to increase too much that I was not able to shift the gears properly and it was having an adverse effect on the clutch plates. Today, I had to take off from office and been to the service centre in the morning. The mechanic removed the clamp/yoke holding the clutch wire near the Engine and refitted it with the new angle setting. Now there is lots and lots of possibility of tightening the cable (if there is any need whatsoever in near future). It seems the clamp/yoke holding the clutch wire was not fitted properly in the first place when I took the delivery. I had pointed out the this problem at the time of my second service but they had not done this work, which they did today, at that time.

I thought you were making unnecessary adjustments in the bike as some kids active in other threads here do on their bikes they got free. E.g. see how the factory set AFR is adjusted twice or thrice a day in the hope of increasing power/torque of a bike. Adjusting valve clearance is another fun hobby. The magic remedy or magic potion for tyre getting flat to weak horn sound to weak headlight to anything else is adjusting the tappet or AFR as per some honourable gurus here.
Anyway, your bike’s clutch is correctly adjusted now and need not be adjusted again for a long period of time.
All the best.

There are only five zeros displayed. So once it crosses 99,999 it will roll over. Yes reliability is good, but Suzuki has not done anything to promote this bike on a larger scale. Yes the tyre lasts very long. Replaced the rear @ 50,000 KMS while the front one lasted for 55,000 KMS (it had life for another 5,000 KMS or so). But the best part of GS that I did not find in other 150 CC bikes - Crusing @ 90 KMPH on highway with sixth gear. Effortless. It can chew kilometers for the entire day.

Gave it for servicing and complained about the front brake. t was making some tik tik notice and also the brake feed was not good. Some brake clamp and some other parts of the front brake has to be replaced which was not in stock. The mechanic told to drive slowly till next service. I will check the feedback and revert back

Probably they were mentioning the spring pad keeping the brake pads firm apart. It costs Rs. 42/-. And if the condition of the brake is so poor, ride carefully.
Since your bike is 80 K kms old, replacement of that spring pad alone may not be sufficient. If they suggest replacement of other parts like piston and cup set, master cylinder, calliper pistons etc. one by one after that, consider replacing the whole brake assembly.
It is not difficult to find out a spring pad from the thrown away calliper assembly. Try it as an experiment and try to remove the air in the brake line completely. If the result is not satisfactory, replacing the whole assembly. It saves money and time and is safer.
it is my personal opinion. Ask the mechanic which is better.

rusty petrol tank mouth Gs 150 R

Dear Friends, i own black 150 r bought on Dec12. i noticed yesterday that the mouth and neck of my fuel tank is rusted. suggest a correcttive action on this please.never noticed in Bajaj 2k model boxer or 2005 HH Super splendor. Suzuki service says it occurs dew to moisture. i took him trip and they managed to clean it. i assume that this will crop up again:-((

For best results, with ignition off, kick the bike a few times, then turn on ignition and kick, normally in my case bike starts in first kick after ignition on.
2011 ZMA Kickstart - YouTube

Its recommended to leave abit of free play in the clutch cable usually 20mm at lever end, if you keep tightening it constantly the clutch wears out sooner.

Re: Suzuki GS150R

Yep. The biggest mistake Suzuki is doing is not marketing this bike properly. Also unicorn can also cruise at 90 effortlessly.

1. Suggestions from experts like you are treated as most authoritative and reliable by bikers like me and hence this doubt. Can you please explain why you suggest kicking the bike in the morning with switched off ignition as GS usually starts easily even in the morning, pressing the ES button.

If this kicking is as an exercise for the leg, isn’t stamping both the legs heavily, directly on the floor better as it strengthens the ankle and foot bones too?

2. This play recommended by Suzuki is 10-15 mm but a 20 mm play may not be making much difference; I hope.


Both Unicorn with 13.3 bhp at 8000 rpm and 12.75 Nm torque at 5500 rpm and GS with 13.8 bhp at 8500 rpm and 13.4 Nm torque at 6000 rpm reaches about 90 kmh speed theoretically at 6600 rpm. I don’t know how Unicorn is, but GS can be ridden at 115 kmh speed, i.e. at 8300 rpm, safely without the least vibration.

Sadly, Suzuki is concentrating on SlingShot, Hayate and Access.