This is my 2009 model, now 3 years old fuel tank. These earlier batches were famous for tank rusting which really affected the sales of our bike adversely. But you can see how perfect it is after 3 years.

Fuel tank of new GS is Teflon coated to prevent rusting. So please upload a picture of the rusting part of your bike’s fuel tank.

In modern bikes its recommended to avoid the kick start completely and only use it if the electric start fails, but still there are some who stick to kick start, because they've seen their fathers and grand fathers start a bike like that and they want to follow in the family legacy. For them I provided this suggestion.
When we kick with ignition off, the oil circulates through out the channels and lubricates all the internals, and it also does introduce AFR into the barell, so next times you turn on the ignition and kick the bike instantly comes to life cause it will be momentarily running rich.

In the video you'll see that my ZMA comes to life in the first kick after ignition is turned on. If we kick from the beginning with ignition on, without choke it will take 5~6 kicks and with choke it will take 2~3 kicks.

And about Uni vs GS doing 90k, Past 60k the engine starts to grunt in the Uni and 90k is achieve with a bit of hassle. But with the GS the block is uber relaxed at 60k and the grunt starts at close to 80k'ish.

I've ridden them both, the Uni abit more, since my close friend has one. And crossing 100k on a Uni is not near as easy as it is with the GS.

No comments. And thanks for the nice words about GS.

Hi , I have a gs150r bought in 2012. I want to upgrade the tyres (both rear and front) to a bigger size. Could members, who have made an upgrade suggest ,as to what could be the biggest size I could go for without affecting the swingarm ? Also in terms of better grip ,which one would be better?

Thanks Ashwinprakas for a detailed reply to my query regarding kick start problem and clutch play problem.

Regarding the second problem it have already replied on previous pages as follows:

"The mechanic removed the clamp/yoke holding the clutch wire near the Engine and refitted it with the new angle setting. Now there is lots and lots of possibility of tightening the cable (if there is any need whatsoever in near future). It seems the clamp/yoke holding the clutch wire was not fitted properly in the first place when I took the delivery. I had pointed out the this problem at the time of my second service but they had not done this work, which they did today, at that time."

Apparently it was the fault of the mechanics at the service centre. Now hope it won't occur.

As regards the kick start problem, I hope this technique as displayed in the video shall work on higher altitudes around 17000 + feets where I intend to go in April/May (Gurudongmar Lake in North Eastern Himalayas). I will try to cover my bike properly at night there as far as possible. (I had been to Khardungla, Pangong Lake, but that was on 115 cc caliber and had no problem with that). I have not done a test of this bike in higher altitudes so far and hope won't face starting problem in my forthcoming trip. Although I have still to get 2 services done before this trip and will try to get the battery properly checked at the service centre.

Any other suggestion is welcome for this bike.

I don’t remember any GS owner upgraded tyres. If you don’t get any information from GS owners, please post your query here.
For better grip, look for a soft compound tyre. But from my experience of facing critical conditions and hard braking as its result with pillion rider too, I can assure that the stock MRF Zapper Y tyres provide sufficient grip even when the air pressure is 27-35 psi as I do instead of the recommended 25-33 psi.
On loose surface, the grip of both tyres and the result of hard braking is almost the same; I guess.

Then, you too believed it?

Now await a detailed scholarly advice on how to turn the AFR screw clockwise or counter clockwise!!

May be this will help a bit:
Page 553

Hi Guys,

Does anyone know, where Suzuki Service Center from Malad shift to?

Thanks in advance

Regards,
Myst-i

Hi All,
Can someone help me with this..plz.

in my GS, its really hard to put First gear.. While running, it seems to be ok.. but when i stop my bike in any signal, or in a traffic block, i really have to give a hard push (really hard) to put it to first gear..I even tried to put the gear after moving my bike a little to the front or to the back ..but no use... so what am doing now is either giving that hard push... or moving in second gear.. For other gears, this problem is not there.. normally its smooth... but very often, it makes noises while shifting down the gears...

why would that be happening..

according to me first do the basic checks ... if the foot shift lever is oiled .... if the rod connecting foot shifter to the gears di proper and not bent and transfers the push you apply on the lever properly and is not bent etc ....

Thanks fadeawayraj and punarvasu. I had seen the 130/80 but also read later that its a pain for the pillion with all the mud splash issue. I was looking for an upgrade which would be better than stock but still not inconveniencing. On a separate thought wouldn't a 130/80 affect the sprockets and cause loosening on the chain, in the long run?

Air filter cleaning process

Guys,

I went through some videos on the Internet regarding the process for cleaning air filters. Is it really done with oils (I suppose there are some specifically-designated ones for this use) and washed with water. All these days, I was under the impression that it's cleaned only with compressed air gun. And, could you please tell what the type of our (GS150R) air filter is? A paper-based/fabric-based/cylindrical-shaped one? Last weekend, I tried cleaning mine. I understand that the dusty air enters the inside of the cylinder (filter) and filtered air goes radially-outward, is this right?

Minimise the engine RPM to 1300 (remember that analogue tachometers are mere show pieces and the reading is not correct or near correct) when hot and release the throttle completely for a moment before engaging first gear. If it makes cold start problems, open the throttle a little before you start the bike in the morning.
And, shifting gear is not stomping on the gear lever but ‘pressing the gear lever’ smoothly to engage another gear.

I don’t think the size of the tyre, load the bike carries, gear in which it moves etc has significant effect on chain wearing.
Lubricate the chain with loose mixture of grease and oil in every 500-750 kms without allowing it to be dry. If gear oil and high quality grease is not available, cheap black grease and used engine oil is enough. The most important fact here is that the chain is not running dry without oil to lubricate it.
Adjust the chain slackness whenever needed and remember that riding with a slightly loose chain is safer than riding with a tight chain.
Ensure that the wheel is properly aligned each time the chain slackness is adjusted. By doing these, you can expect 30,000 or more kms from the chain.
130/80-18 tyre gives a little more speed than the stock 100/90-18 tyre.

Our air cleaner is made of non-woven fabric – not foam - and cannot be cleaned with kerosene/petrol and oiled. It can be washed with water and soap (I too have done it) but the filtering quality after washing cannot be guaranteed.
Clean it with compressed air as shown on page 6-14 of the manual or try to suck the dust through its opening with a vacuum cleaner.
It is cylindrical, somewhat like this and the air enters and goes out as you said and this is why the dust is removed by applying air on the mesh side to avoid making holes in the fabric.
(vishnukmd has posted its pictures earlier but I don’t remember the page number now).

1348, guess this is the page you are referering too