sir ji you are right ...... and thanks a lot.... i think the one thing you told that "One batch of the clutch bearing of the new GSs are a little faulty and replacing it may perhaps be helpful. If doing it, ask the mechanic to drill a few holes on the clutch sleeve hub too to increase the oil flow to the clutch plates." i think my bike suffering from same problem... and does the exhaust have any bad effect on the life of the engine..??

@sunny187: bro keep the disks clean ...... every morning before getting started clean the disks with some soft cotton cloth.... its might help.... because even i use to get some sounds but daily dusting helped me... and yaa this gear shift problem is from the beginning ... mine is a January purchased one and from that time till now i have the same problem.... SC guys do not help at all...

@bhavesh rathi Thanks mate....!!

Shifting from 1-2 , 2-3 or 3-2-1 is hard at higher speeds and emit unpleasant sounds , shift these gears @ 20-35 kms/hr under 3000rpm they will shift slickly.

check disk play though unlikely , breakpads are touching disk while on the move , ensure they are positioned correctly to rest position when lever not deperesed.

Well i do not agree about oils ,even base oils are different ,infact its all about refinment process(oils we get in market may be recycled one even from good brands , castrol though most popular) , some oils suit different bikes differently , its only after 100-200 kms of driving after new oil we fill the difference.

That squeaking may be due to the dust between the rotor and brake pads. Clean the rotor with water and detergent. If dust is the cause, that sound will disappear temporarily and cannot be eliminated permanently. So neglect it as it is not affecting your bike in any way.
If still the sound is heard after cleaning, check the spring pad in the caliper assembly supporting and keeping the brake pads apart and replace if needed. But the sound we hear due to faulty spring pad is like jiggling some metal pieces and the squeak is like rubbing two metal pieces together. Becoming this part defective in a new bike is rare and so washing the rotor will be enough.
Let what you said about base oils be true and I agree with you to disagree. When you come closer to the real facts your opinion may be different.
In many countries used oil is collected, cleaned, refined and used to make new oil including engine oil. That means, a part of all the oils – whether it is Castrol or any other oil with divine power to solve any engine, speed or pickup problem – we use is used oil and this process is legally allowed and encouraged.
In India, our country, too this cleaning or bleaching is done and what get after it is mainly used to make edible oils; not lubricants. That is the only difference.
And, just because you mentioned Castrol: The result of my replacing brake fluid with two popular DOT 4 fluids – TVS Girling (MRP Rs.93/- for 250 ml) and KBX (MRP 175/- for 500 ml) – was, though the only reason was not brake fluid, horrible.
Now I wonder how some of our bikers claim that these oils are so power full that they are able to stop the bike by pressing the brake lever with a single finger after filling these fluids.
Anyway, I settled with another poor DOT 3 fluid and I can now stop my bike with the help of four fingers; not one.
Sorry for this negative approach but my recent experience once again taught me to not believe or trust blindly what I read on the net or ownership threads and convinced that bleeding is not the last word for solving all the disc brake problems.

Dear Sir,

Nobody is asking or forcing you to believe or trust blindly what is on the net or forums. Talking in your language, I am asking you as to what you are doing apart from posting on the forum your views just like any other member. Are you providing us with practical examples to see like a DIY video or some practical results or do you run a garage to substantiate your claims with 'proof' for all of us to see?
Do you know that even in India used oil is recycled back to engine oil ? not necessarily only edible oil. FYI.. what we use is not 'used oil' but recycled oil that MEETS THE SPECIFICATIONS set by various automotive bodies!
And understand that a bike is a combination of various parts ! so if you are using a DOT 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 etc with busted/not in proper condition hose pipe/mastercylinder/piston etc.. you will not be able to stop with even 10 fingers! and then there is the brake fluid absorbing moisture which affects braking. And can you point out one post here on xbhp that says 'brake bleeding solves ALL problems' ??
To us, you are also just another forum member sitting by your computer typing out these messages like most of us. Or can you provide us with some of your research and development thesis/work ?

Well, some ACTION in this thread of late, he he...

This disc squealing is an issue with all disc equipped bikes. The solution (not 100% fool proof) is quite effective.
Get the disc assembly cleaned with dry compressed air (and not washed with water). Dry air will help in blowing the dust particles away.

Depending upon your location, this arrangement is available at all major mechanics' workshops.
You may want to scrub your brake pads with sandpaper just a wee bit to remove the glaze and you'll find better braking.

DOT4 is better than DOT3 because it has higher temperature bearing capabilities (in layman terms).
Under heavy braking the discs get very hot and that's where DOT4 helps. For less traffic congested areas and minimal highway use, DOT3 shall do good too.

Regarding avoiding water for cleaning discs, it simply soaks the pads and effective braking returns only after riding for about 50 odd kms which is a bit risky with the till-then-ineffective brakes!

Whatever we do to clean the rotor and pads, this squeaking reappears as dust re-accumulates between the rotor and pads even after – in my experience – 15 K kms of ride. That is why I said it is better to neglect that sound as that mild rubbing of pads on rotor do not make any difference in the performance of the bike.
I was not questioning the superiority of DOT4 brake fluid over DOT3 but the claim that somebody is able to stop his bike by pressing the brake lever with a single finger after filling a certain DOT4 fluid. DOT3, 4 and 5.1 (I am not familiar with the DOT6, 7, 8, 9 and 10 fluids mentioned by my respectable friend in his previous post) is based on poly glycol. The difference as you know is in the boiling point and viscosity and DOT4 does not increase the braking capacity – I mean the pressure applied on the brake pads.
Considering it, we can see that DOT3 is enough if we are not riding downhill continuously as the dry boiling point of it is around 205 0C and DOT4’s around 230. Both absorb water at almost the same rate. Any of it or DOT5 or 5.1 does not decrease the stopping distance.
And brake pads do not absorb water and can be safely cleaned it. The water dries after a few braking but I don’t have any Doctorate in this subject.

Nobody has a PHD in bikes sir. Some have more experiences than others that's it. I'm much junior to almost everyone out here and I intend to learn from every thread I can possibly browse on xbhp.
You're right here too. DOTx oils work on the brakes and not on the levers. But with my personal experience I feel that in case of long distance touring, the brakes used to start fading away after about 300 kms riding while using DOT3, but never had this issue with DOT4.

Hi guys,today went out with a friend as a pillion.feeling at ~80 in city roads was simply amazing. engine & gearbox was utterly butterly delicious.No vibrations felt as such.bike was rock solid.fell in love with my love even more.The acceleration while climbing the flyover was something i never expected from an air cooled 150 cc bike.the feeling was as if i'm flying on cloud 9. was feelin.....anyway that feeling i can't express in words.it was like all other vehicles including cars were slowing down and giving way for me.but i did notice one thing that after the trip the idle rpm was around 2.5 k.that made me a bit concerned.any suggestions about the rpm thing??? guys in search of a good service centre in pune.

Hello All,

Squeak or screech noise from front disk break is common among all commuter bikes it happen as a result of dust or small sand particles, even if i clean it and drive for 15 kms on village type or mud roads the sound comes again, i started ignoring it as it goes off automatically after some time.

i have no comments about the break oil as my GS150R runs cool with the same break oil @ 14500 kms / 2+yrs

Engine oil i prefer MA2 grade 20w-40 mineral and it works good with my bike / riding style.
many oil manufacturers put our xxxxxx oil exceeds MA2 or JASO MA2 standard or Our oil meets MA2 standard.... dont trust them they are just marketing gemics just look out for the below logo of MA2

Please ignore the last two lines on the above picture as it is manufacturers word and not part of the ma2 standard logo in oil container

OOT : if you got tension + angry and returning home shouting at all family members, they do shout at you right, in a similar fashion in angry mood if we drive or start the vehicle your angry goes in the bike here am referring to the way you shift, accelerate and kick start the bike in angry mood,in such case we screww our bike and detorate its performance so response from bike would be obviously harsh and noisy

on such condition being it as 800cc or 50cc we cant blame it

this is a public forum where what ever i have said is my thoughts / opinion and not forcing any one to agree with me or argue with me, mentioned all this as member as all members have rights to express their view

am aware here no one is dominating anyone we are sharing our experiance and view to sort out the issue / problem in their bike

Agree with the part about man handling the bike.

OT: Why do all your recent posts on this thread have a disclaimer statement at the end? Please post your opinions without worrying so much. Just an honest thought.

The pressure transferred from the brake lever to the brake pads by any fluid is the same. DOT 4 has no superiority here. And 3 and 4 absorbs water in almost the same rate. The difference is in the boiling point, viciousness and the effects of water/moisture absorbed.
Brake fluids with higher boiling points is essential for heavier vehicles like trucks, SUVs and the like and racing bikes or vehicles moving downhill where hard braking is necessary. Heat generated by friction causes the boiling of the fluid and generation of gas. The high boiling point is helpful here.
The water contamination lowers the boiling point of the brake fluid but not in the same rate in each kind. Its effect in the DOT 4 is higher than DOT 3, i.e. the drop in DOT 3 is about 20% but in DOT 4 is about 50% when the water contamination is 3%. Hence more frequent replacement becomes necessary.
As the boiling point – dry or wet - of DOT 4 is higher, it is better in conditions where more heat is generated in the calliper but DOT 3 is better if contaminated with water. The pressure transferred to pads remains the same.
If you feel the brake is ineffective in long rides, there may be air trapped in the fluid which expands due to heat and becomes compressed when pressure is applied. Refill new fluid. A reverse bleeding is more effective.

The DIY experts and waste ex-teachers who asked difficult questions to the students to keep them mum please excuse if they have enough time to do it. That kind of moronic teachers never understand that they or their ugly ego is spoiling the future of their students and they are being hated by their students throughout their life.


Adjust the idle RPM to 1300-1400 when the engine is warm, i.e. after riding 4 or 5 kms.