Re: Suzuki GS150R

Thank u very much for the pics. this was the initial position of the stand.
I tried hammering to bring it to original ( referring to ur pic) i succeeded but the welding joints became too weak , so got it welded road side for 30 bucks. dono which grade electrodes he used , so would paint joints as a precaution

Re: Suzuki GS150R

I see. Thanks. Here you go.

Re: Suzuki GS150R

Though I was much satisfied with GS150R in the test ride which I had recently, I changed my mind later and decided not to sell my Hunk
Can somebody tell me what is the cost of a pair of rear shock absorbers of GS? Was thinking of it as a replacement to my Hunk's rear shocks!

Re: Suzuki GS150R

Rs. 1107/- per piece, including all taxes.

Re: Suzuki GS150R

Thanks Punarvasu.
Think its economical than Hunk's shocks then, they cost around 3500 for a pair!

Between, HAPPY NEW YEAR TO ALL!

Re: Suzuki GS150R

Guys,

Can anyone tell me what is the light pink tube attached to be bottom of the carb? Is it the vacuum tube?
And, should the other end of the tube be attached to anything else, or can it be left alone?

For the past 2-3 days, I've been feeling a lot of vibrations. I've a feeling this has started after going through few heavy bumps @ 20-25kmph.

Today morning, when I have been inspecting randomly, I found that the other end of this tube is disconnected, and it looks as if it is burned.

P.S. My bike is run 1050 kms till now, and it's just been a month since I purchased it.

Re: Suzuki GS150R

Looks like you are talking about the petrol overflow tube, through which petrol will flow down incase of overflow.

Re: Suzuki GS150R

Posting these pictures + captions on behalf of BlackPanther.

Sprocket change - GS150R:

Tools required:

8 mm T Spanner
Allen Key 5 & 6 MM
12, 22 and 27 mm ring/socket spanner.



Removal the Front Sprocket:

Note: Bike should not be in Neutral.

Unscrew the two bolts (top and bottom) to remove the front sprocket cover.




Remove the cable which calculates our bike's speed.




Remove the below nut using Allen Key 6 MM.



Unscrew the below two nuts using 5 MM Allen Key and then remove the plate which holds the front sprocket.
Twist it a little and it comes out.



Remove the front sprocket.

Parts you get after removal of front sprocket



Removing the chain:

Now remove the master link in the chain. Easy but little tricky. You need a Cutting Plier for this.
I was not able to take photo while removing it. Just a snap on how to remove it.
The picture on your new chain sprocket kit will have more clear pictures.



Removing the rear wheel and sprockets:

Unscrew the nuts (axle nut and torque link nut) to the right hand side of the rear wheel. (tool available with bike or even better use a good ring/socket spanner)



Now remove the center axle which you can find to the left side (near saree guard). You can either pull this out if it comes easy. Else just hammer it slowly (preferably using a wooden/rubber/plastic hammer?) from the other direction.



The spacer will fall down. Now unscrew the brake assembly (where my finger points) with the 12 MM spanner.



Remove the brake assembly. It is still connected to the rear break line.

If needed unscrew and remove the nut (which you use to adjust your brake) and the entire brake assembly comes in your hand.

Pull the wheel out.



Now our rear sprocket is still connected to the swing arm.

Remove the nut (Suzuki calls it sprocket drum nut) and you get your rear sprocket in your hand (washer + nut + rear

sprocket in your hand)



Place the rear sprocket set on your wheel (similar to how it is connected in the bike)



Use a 12 MM Spanner and remove the 4 nuts and bolt connecting the rear sprocket to the sprocket holder.



Remove the rear sprocket (it may be tight due to dust formation)



Remove the chain adjusters (Fitted inside the swing arms)



Clean whatever you are going to fit back (I guess BlackPanther used kerosene).



Fix the front Sprockets:



Fix the rear Sprocket (Reverse of removal):

Place the New sprocket on your sprocket holder (placed and secured on the wheel) to tighten the 4 bolts.



Now insert the chain adjusters and adjust the nut to the least extreme position (check alignment is same at both sides of the swing arm).

Insert the sprocket set, add the washer and tighten the screw with your fingers (do not over tighten it)

Place the wheel on the sprocket holder,

Insert the brake assembly and connect it to the brake line.

Insert the spacer.

Insert the center axle nut to place all these parts to together. (Grease the axle before putting it in).



Insert the center axle, screw in the axle nut near the silencer.

Remove the clip and the master link from the new chain.

Connect the chain between the sprockets. Install the master link and clip.

Adjust the chain as per the required slackness.

Brake centering is required (Rotate the wheel with your hands fastly. Now ask someone to suddenly apply rear brakes. Do twice or thrice.
In the last try, don't release the brakes until you tight the axle nut).

Do a test drive. then install the chain guard. If doubtful, adjust the chain slackness with a nearby mechanic.

Drive safe.

Re: Suzuki GS150R

Hmm, does the concept of overflow in carb applies to new bikes. I've read somewhere that new bikes are equipped with a system where the petrol inflow closes automatically when the ignition is turned off.

Anyway, today, I'm going to give my bike for servicing. I'll ask him about this, and lets see what happens. Hopefully, my bike will not be messed up by those guys.

Re: Suzuki GS150R

Spotted a brand new gs with glossy red colour.
had a look at suzu website. update is that orange has been discontinued and replaced with red.
.

Re: Suzuki GS150R

AFAIK only automatic scooters like Activa have automatic fuel on/off system and they don't have fuel tap also.

Re: Suzuki GS150R

Successfully converted my GS150R into Full DC. Thanks to gmagesh for compiling an excellent DIY guide to upgrade to Full DC
But I found out that my winding by hand wasn't as good as I wanted it to be. So, I gave it to be wound on a machine. And I must say, I looks sturdier and evenly wound. I'm getting 14.43V at the battery terminal end, which is quite better than the 14.2V that the DIY guide says.

Re: Suzuki GS150R

The recommended voltage is 13.5 to 15.3 at 5,000 RPM. Which RR is used and how is the output from the coil supplied to it?

Edit:
Forgot to mention earlier that if the coil was varnished after winding, it is difficult to get it properly dried up even with a hair dryer. If so, drain the oil and check its condition as there is the possibility of mixing the oil with varnish.

In the picture it seems both ends of coil is connected to the same point. Here is a picture of a properly wound coil.

Re: Suzuki GS150R

1. The coil ends were soldered onto the wires - one via the soldered terminal visible and the other end connection is inside the small sleeve peeking around the pole, if you see closely. I was very careful to have both ends insulated from the stator laminations and confirmed it with a continuity check and coil resistance check.

2. I let the varnish dry for a whole day in the sun and the coating was quite dry when I finally installed it. But I'll take your advice and check the coil tomorrow. The best way is to bake it in an oven but the winding shop used it only for large orders. Hair dryers definitely wouldn't help :P

3. I used the same Ape RR as shown in the instructions

Re: Suzuki GS150R

2. Then there is the possibility of mixing varnish and oil as the varnish on the inner layers of coil do not get dried. Better drain the oil and check for color variation and floating substances before checking the coil. If you feel any difference, a rewinding is absolutely necessary.