A RR unit, simply converts AC produced by alternator to DC . The new RR unit is not designed based on battery but the AC-DC conversion efficiency. When the capacity of battery increases so does its size, 7Ah battery is more compact than 9Ah. Most batteries uses trickling recharge which will increase the battery life, if rapid charging is used it will reduce the life. Its true that 9Ah battery takes more time to (fully) charge than 7Ah but there wont be side affects as long as our bike is stock.

So its "Lanza" which means spear and not "Lance". Actually I only heard about Lance, the Long spear used by Cavalry

The idea of initially setting the idle rpm to 3000 is to prevent the engine from stalling when we turn the A/F screw to the leaner most position. When you did tuning the rpm reduced to 800, usually most engine will stall below 1000. Try adjusting the idling to 1800. Then repeat the same procedure. What the advantage of setting low idling rpms?

In low rpm the engine torque will be very low so a slightest change in the A/F ratio will show a difference in engine output. My tip is to do a trial and error method. First time close the screw completely(most lean). Then try opening the screw one rotation at a time by counting. Mark the position when the engine rpm becomes constant. Now turn the screw to leaner most position again. This time rotate one turn at a time, but as we reach the previous best position rotate by a quarter and listen to engine sound for the accurate setting.

For example, by the graph it seems like 2 turns is your optimum setting. From the Zeroth position turn the screw by half rotations. The turns will be like 0.5,1.0,1.5,2.0,2.5. Now as we reach the optimum value increase the resolution as 1.5,1.75,2.0,2.25,2.5 etc this will help you to fine tune the carb. I hope this info helped you

The number plate is already in DC, so the load shedding is only 10W of the two pilot lamps. If we need to fully utilize the power of 55W bulb, we should rewind the coil. Else there will only be a a power of 44W available to 55W bulb which wont power it to its max. Even if you rev higher there wont be enough power and as MSN1 said when we are negotiating a turn or tackle a pothhole our speeds will reduce so there will be a considerable loss of power. So this setup wont help when we need it most.

Bro you are from Chennai rite, I guess there are many technicians why dont you consult them(Sorry for being a little selfish)? You can still learn from them and can put a DIY thread for all GSpians.

Bro there are bike other than pulsar220 with less CC in india with 35/35 are good namely ,TVS star city 110 cc or star city sports and TVS 50cc ..moped...I think so they are best in head light department SUZUKI should learn lesson from their old partner TVS SUZUKI

+1 to that. We need to rewind coil to better the light output. I have connected the pilots to battery directly and using a 55 watts bulb. There is a slight lag when switching from upper to lower. Also when i use flash it is unable to light both the beam as in case of stock condition. Raj

Ya thats kinda how i did it.. i rotated it 1.5 turns initially as i didnt expect the optimum setting in that range.. then i started rotating it by quarter turn.. the rpm was highest and stable from 2 to 2.5 turns then it started reducing pretty fast after 3 upto 3.5 turns and turned off after that..

What i was saying is, the rpm change isn't drastic as i expected it to be..
My friend said the rpm usually varies from 800 to 2500 as you turn the screw, but in my case it varied from 800 to 1300 only..

And also MACH50 mentioned 4 turns and i got only 2.. so i got a doubt..
Anyway i dont think i got the tuning right..
While riding if i turn of the fuel knob, my bike used to go 1.0 to 1.2kms depending on how i ride..
But after tuning its reduced to 0.7-1km

Could leaner mixture reduce the mileage too ?? Because the change is, now the screw is at 2 rotations and previously it was at 2.5 rotations..(which means leaner mixture)


About the rectifiers, mine was initially AA, changed to BA, and battery was replaced under warranty after that.. :P
I'm going to get the new battery today, i'll ask if it was because of the rectifier or not..

I dont think I told to do it this way You have done a new protocol.But its the carb we are playing and it would be not wise to deviate.
1.Most important thing is warm up..........do it as I told.
2.Next rise your engine rpm to 3000 rpm with the idling screw.
3.Then turn the fuel screw clock-wise till lock position.........note the number of rotations.
4.The engine rpm should come down to around 1.1K for most bikes and near stalling.But for our GSR's twin throttle cabled balancer.....it would come down to only around 1400-1500.
5.Lower this 1400rpm to 1000 rpms using the idle screw,dont touch the fuel screw now.
6.This time you are ought to find the engine beat irregular and near stalling.
7.Two things may happen now
a>your bike may stall....in which case,turn your idling screw to increase the idling and then go on to the next step.
b>your bike gives irregular beats but doesnt stalls-good...go on to the next step.
8.Turn the Fuel screw anti-clockwise,Engine rpms rises....but bike wont stall after this.
9.When you turn 2 full rotations of fuel screw,engine rpm rises to around 1300-1400rpm but the beats are irregular......so give it just 2 more rotations.....engine rpm may this time near 2000 rpms.But the engine beats would be regular.Lower this 2000 rpm using the idling screw to 1400-1500 rpms..........engine beats regularised and idling rpm constant.

Test your idling in the two ways I mentioned..If you want a bit richer mixture for added pick-up turn only half a rotation after 4th rotation.Thats all.

This technique is easier said than done.....it requires a lot of practice to actually do it confidently.Once you get the pulse of your bike.You will tune it blind folded.
Tuning with a CO detector instrument is the ideal way but all of us dont posses it.Also most of the SVCs arent that charitable to award all the bikes with that kind of tune.So,lets do it ourselves and learn to sharpen our own knives

You are running an over rich mix now.......thats why you bike stalled bogged with fuel at the 4th rotation.I dont think that you turned the fuel screw clockwise to fully lock position before starting the anticlockwise turns.

Leaner mixture increases mileage.........richer mileage decreases mileage.Check the color of your spark-plug to confirm

Guys who ask ABOUT LED pilot

The RED LED is the one i had previously but plastic color is white(bcos i copied the LED image frm dealextream.com) ,which last long good ...Now i had currently with me but not fitted ,is the other pictures(white LED),but in the back of cover its written as for 12v DC only.So i have to check after fit in our pilot lamp socket and how it performance in AC, as our pilot lamp socket is AC.......
The image(tyre cap) is for tyre pressure cap which also glow LED but source of power is button battery inside(i don't know it is avail or not just get pic frm deal extreeme.com)
The cost of twin LED is 150Rs even it is written as 140rs(see pic of cover)

+1 to you Mach. But I think Falcon is now running on leaner mixture as he rotated only 2.5 rotations from the leanest position. And also leaner mixture wont always increases mileage but richer mixture always decrease mileage. Leaner mixture will produce unnecessary heating and vibration. Cold starts will be a big problem. Richer mixture leads to deposition of carbon compounds in the piston head and carbonize spark plug.

Hi bro ur query in my private message , the answer is with the above pictures....
My town local shop guy .source this twin LED frm chennai only ,that too frm GP road....

Rear View mirrors

Guys, Regarding those who complain the RVMs are not fit enough and blocking view , try the pulsar RVMs, i had a spare set and i tried them on and it fits, and i get to see whats behind me completely. And it looks better also.

This is definitely easier said than done..
These mechanical components require too much patience and precision..
Seriously, hard work

Its a possibility that i didnt turn it to lock position too.. will check it again.
(i'm scared to meddle with that screw actually, my friend said its very delicate and even little pressure can spoil the threads and the entire carb will have to be changed if that happens )

And about the spark plug, i dont want to try taking it out again..
If the tuning becomes too bad i'll go to the SC and tell them bike was like this only since i got from servicing and act innocent like i didnt touch it :P


By the way, that black component just next to the fuel screw, it it a microprocessor by any chance..?
I saw 8008 written on it, which is an intel 8 bit microprocessor.

@ amul

That's true yaar,

default GS RVM's are reflecting the driving persons shoulder at least in 30% area will try pulsar one thanks for the headsup;

In GS RVM's are designed in such a way so as it won't hit the other vehicle (its length is lesser and with in the handlebar length)

@ falcon

Yes we need lot of patience; coz mileage relies on several factors not only the screw

instead of aiming towards 50 kmpl our aim should be towards optimum fuel supply for the bike ( should set the fuel feeding level to match the bikes requirement again this differs according to person to person I mean useage pattern)

In my bike above the carb fuel screw the black thing says 9216



may be I have a better processor in it

or that's just a serial number kinda for the part no or something.

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Happy to hear that you are safe, Don't try 125 kmph next time coz indian roads aren't reliabe always, one day its smoooth but the next day they ill drill potholes for political reasons

hey Guys.......enjoyed BANDH to the fullest.....had to come to BKC for some personal work......reached there in bang 40 mins compared to 1.5 hrs in peak time.....and one more goood thing,no traffic POLICE..........so was ripping through like anything in city too........
had a bad experience though.....while cruising at 80kmph on nashik highway......a unicorn rider with pillon passed by me n slowed down......I crossed him n felt something on mah back.......it was the pillons hand trying to take mah lappy bag of my shoulders......i immediately breaked......so he also slowed and looked back........however i thank my GS to save my lappy......i used power shifting and just passed by him breaking the 125kmph barrier.........he couldnt do much but just keep staring at my bike zooming ahead........


BUT.......regarding average....just got 42kmpl.......instead of 57kmpl........maybe due to the sprint........

that son of a bit**. Thank god you are safe. There could have been an accident. Next time you ride take the bag on the front side. Take care man. Raj

Guess its just a part number then..
About the RVMs it can be adjusted to show the rear view properly, takes a lot of effort though..
For me, from the beginning the left mirror was fine and right one had a bad view,
Then i had a minor accident and the right mirror became loose and when i tightened it, it was much better.. lucky in a way i guess


Its unbelievable someone would actually try something like that..

I generally dont ride beside any vehicle for long, either i over take or slow down, not because they may steal though, i'm scared they might lean to the right or left and bang into me..

And once you realized what they were doing and turned back, i dont think they would have tried to take your bag again..
So going 125kmph wouldnt have been necessary, riding fast after such situations seems dangerous coz you might have been tensed.



@All: i got a new exide bikerz battery today under warranty, its 9ah..
The old battery had caused the battery holder to rust a lot, so they agreed to change the holder during next service(they didnt have stock today).

They didnt know much about the BA and CA series rectifier though..
I saw some GS150's still having AA series too.. guess they changed to BA only if the customer asked for it and it wasnt like a recall

frds. i like to use gulf 4t oil for my bike.. but i dont know how to check the oil level and how to change the oil and filter as well.. if i want to change the filter, where shall i buy.. shall i get it from where i purchase the oil? so plz guide me on this issue. bcoz i feel lot of roughness in bike.. and some thud.. thud..sound ( i didnt know from where it is coming.. chain or engine) though i rode only 400 kms since i have changed the oil ( zeus castrol i think so in SC)...