Yeah Pradip said the details . I dont believe there is any relation with what a person does for a living and how he drives. Usually elder people drive more carefully.

So you are going to meet Pradip, thats nice of you. Please keep us updated.

The bike is too smooth to ride, chain problem fixed in no time at the service center, smaller turning radius than other bikes in the 150cc segment(or may be I just got used to it, so turned it like that), though sometimes feel like I need to engage the first gear when the traffic slows me down, but still continue in 2nd gear with less acceleration, the feel of the engine is quite awesome, you just listen to the sound but don't have to feel the uncomfortable vibrations, even the speedbreaker that I mentioned last time were the result of some alterations in the suspension settings and now they are back to normal by the service center guys and bumps can't be felt....

Still few more things to try, like extreme cornering(when the side step almost touches the road), and also learn how to WHEELIE and STOPPIE(if anyone knows what speed we should be in to do a wheelie or stoppie and how much rev should be applied for wheelie and in which gear then please leave your replies, I m getting desperate to try all this on this bike).

I guess you can use google translate
Cool, good to know that this little monster can gulp 20L of petrol in just one go....
And sorry for misunderstanding, I thought 15.5L was actually including the reserve as well..

@Maestro: buddy, I didn't drove my bike like a video game console till I checked the average, and I did everything possible up to my knowledge to get the highest attainable value which consist of gentle acceleration, release of throttle early instead of hard braking, not revving beyond 4.5K, and going on smooth highway instead of India's Offroad highways, and used R2R method(but didn't checked by putting it on ON and then on RES to go somewhat further and used only 1L petrol which I poured in it only after it fell in RES). The fuel consumption during the madness driving is yet to be measured, but everytime I just forget everything after I drive.

Service

hi Guys

Gave the vehicle for 1 st service.. Any important points to check while taking the vehicle out..Can we ask them to check the mileage??

My answers are in bold italics.

i am happy to see so many discussions going on well i am up for a oil change using Motul 20w40 currently to be true it has done 2k kms and i am not very pleased with it any suggestions regarding Which engine oil to use?

Dear Abdul Khadar,

I am surprised that an experienced rider like you is complaining about the mileage. What were the problems with the bore & piston and how did you get rid of it?

The mileage depend so many factors. Anyway, if your bike is properly maintained, check the brakes and ensure they are free. Do not unnecessarily press the clutch liver. Avoid sudden acceleration and retardation and try to keep a constant speed. If you are not a dare devil driver, try to keep the engine rpm at or below 4500.

If the carburettor is re-tuned by anyone, get it properly tuned again from the service centre, using CO monitor, smoke analyser etc.

Shift to the higher gear at the earliest possible so as to reach the 6th gear in 30 kmh and try to ride in higher gears as far you can. That means, shift to the higher gear at the earliest possible and shift to the lower gear at the latest possible.

After all this, check the mileage with 300 – 400 ml of petrol in a jar, connecting directly to the carburettor. Repeat the test in all the modes and find out the best result and insist to that mode.

(If the ‘GOD’ mode or any other mode gives you better result than the other modes, write a thesis about it and try to get a Ph. D and don’t hesitate to or don’t be shy to inform Suzuki about this great innovation).

If yet the mileage is low, do a compression test using the compression tester in the sc. If the compression is low, get the valves, valve seats, piston etc. changed. The mechanic will tell you what to do exactly. Follow his advice. That will solve the mileage problem.

When you adjust the chain next time, ask the mechanic to tighten the nuts manually. That will solve the problem of frequent loosening of the chain. Here, not the chain but the torque applied to tighten the nuts is the culprit. And when you hear the chain hitting sound next time, check the springs of both the centre and side stands. If any of it has become weak, change it too.

To get rid of the gear shifting hardness, wait to shift the gear till the engine rpm lowers. It is not practicable in all situations. So, when the engine is hot (not warm) adjust the engine rpm to 1500 – 1600. As a result, the cold start may be a bit difficult. In that case, give a slight acceleration when you start the bike.

There is no false reserve in our bike. I have described it earlier. Ask the sc manager to show you a damaged fuel tank and ask him to explain how the main and reserve functions. I hope he will do it. As our bike’s fuel tank is bigger, the difference between the height of both main and reserve fuel tubes is little. This leads to the refilling of the main fuel tube again when the fuel in the tank forms a wave when the bike stops. If you tilt the bike to a side, the level of the fuel in that side increases and this too causes the filling of the main tube again. This petrol thus filled in the main tube will be sufficient for another few kms. Ordinarily this do not happen in smaller fuel tanks as, naturally, the difference of the height of these tubes are more and we will have to tilt the bike more to fill the main fuel tube again.

That is, in fact, the real consumption of the reserve petrol starts when the main supply is stopped first time. For the subsequent running, reserve petrol is used.

Can you distinguish tappet sound from other sounds from the engine? Do you really hear a sharp noise like some nuts or bolts are loose and freely moving in the engine? Why are you not getting the tappet clearance correctly adjusted? Who put this idea about tappets in your mind?

Please give an answer about these questions and about the bore & piston.

Anyway, tappet noise has nothing to do with the mileage. It is an annoyance; so, get it adjusted and periodically replace the oil and oil filter. I am doubtful about the sound as the bike is new and properly maintained.

With regards.

Nice to see you back Adi, it seems like you had quite a riding in just 6 months. Motul 3000T worked best for me, if not use Gulf Pride.

@ Clanx

Have a good conversation with the technician about what all things they did. Its very good to change the oil and filter as early as possible for the first time. Check whether the sound from the swing arm still exists.

The indication led glows at 4.5K & 8K rpm in ECO and PWR mode respectively. Make sure that it is not in the no indication mode(GOD). Since you are in break-in period dont worry too much about mileage it will get steady with time.

@ Vishnu

Great post bro.......

Thanks, Anupdas. Anyway, please tell me how to include images in the write-ups.

Regards.

I dont think this point is true. If you ride in 6th gear at 30km/h you'd be wasting petrol to maintain the momentum of the flywheel and the throttle would have to be opened more. (i guess thats what its called, i'm an electronics engineering student, did only basics of mech in 1st year so not too sure if its the flywheel.)

The mileage vs rpm curve would be like an inverted V shape (approximately).
So riding between 4000-5000 rpm would be more ideal for getting mileage.
(this second point i heard from my mech engg friends, so i cant comment much on it)

Uploading Pictures on xBhp

There is a detailed tutorial on how to upload pictures on Coffee Lounge-Off topic discussion thread. Here is the link

1. Upload images to free image hosting sites like Picasa.
2. Right click on uploaded image and choose option properties if you are using internet explorer or Copy link location if you using Firefox.
   
3. Choose the option Insert Image from the formatting toolbar of xBhp and paste the image link previously copied. You are done

PS: Once you mentioned about meeting Japanese Engineers, any updates on that matter.

@ Falcon

I too dont agree with vishnu on early gear shifts. Its always better to shift gear early since gearing ratios are different in each gear the shift point is not the same in every gear. Lower gears have lots of torque and can be shifted early but top gears need to be revved a little higher. I dont know how to explain this in simple way.

I always feel the throttle response of engine each gear and rides in 4000-5000 same as you. But shifts early or late depending on the pillion and road conditions such as plain, ascend, descend etc. As you friends said the Torque vs engine rpm curve is an inverted "U" curve. It peaks at a maximum rpm for ours its at 6500 rpm. If we are to drive in a racing for best results we have to shift up after 6500 rpm (around 8000) and shift down (around 5000).

There is always a compromise between the low range, mid range and high range rpm power delivery. Since racing bikes are high revving engine, they are tuned for maximum efficiency at higher rpms(timing of opening and closing of inlet valves). But commuter bikes are more of an all rounder working best in lower and mid range engine rpm where we mostly drive. A typical example is R15 for high range and Unicorn for mid range. Despite having same capacity their behavior is different due to the change in timing of opening and closure of valves.

Hey..good to know even sundays the SC is open at your place
As Anup suggested, catch the mech who did the service of your bike and ask him what all things done. just check the engine sound, indicators, buzzers. I think there would be no much issues in new bike.

Adi, you can try Gulf Pride 4T Plus Oil. I found it pretty Good.
In fact, i have now switched from Gulf Oil to Motul 3000T, as many have recommended Motul.
Can you tell me your Reasons why you are not satisfied with the Motul Oil ?

Me and my GSR's never ending Mileage Woes

I am literally fed up and bugged up of the Mileage Issues on my GSR. Since a long long time, i have been facing Inconsistent Mileage and False Reserve Issues. I used to ignore it initially but now it's getting into my Head. And seems like there is no end to it.
I have recorded the Data of my last few fillings and calculated Mileage R-R Method.
As stated earlier, i have attached a Text Document containing my GSR's Mileage Data.
I tried copying the Data here, but it was coming in a very messed up format. So, uploaded the File.

I had tried tuning the Carb. myself about a Month ago but the Results were the same.
I just got my Bike Serviced. I told about this Issue to the Service Supervisor while giving my Bike for Servicing. He assured me that he will take care of it and tune it properly. But that does not seem to be the Case. After Servicing, now the Cold RPM is around 800 - 900. In the mornings while starting , i have to Rev the Bike so that it does not stall. When the Engine is Warm, it fluctuates between 1000 - 1100 RPM max. When the Engine is running and Bike is on Standstill, the Exhaust Note also does not seem uniform. Is the tuning messed up ? At least when I had tuned my Bike, the Cold RPM was 1000 and Warm RPM was 1500.

One surprising thing to note is that after Servicing, my first Mileage check returned a Mileage of 69. I was like "WOW". But the next Fill gave a Mileage of 34.
I am starting to think now if my Carburetter is Faulty.
I am almost at my Wit's end now. Dunno when and how will i find a Solution to this.

@ vishnukmd
The mileage / performance mantra is ."just go by what the bike says" listen to the engine sound and behaviour aka response.

Driving at 3.5 to 4.5 rpm is good

If we drive at low speed on high gear bike engine will struggle to pull thus it drinks more fuel.

A good example is while climbing we cant drive on higher gear and in low speed as it cant breath to take the leap forward.

If we drive on 20 kmph on second or third gear engine sound will be bit high but bike will get pulled in a sturdy and energetic way that can be heard in the engine sound

but same speed low speed cant be maintained on 5th or 6th gear, it will breath hard and struggle to pull at such speed.

Abhi from my point of view this sounds to be the petrol bunk chors hand work.
Try the bottle test with the help of local mechanic.