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**vishnukmd** · 11-01-2011, 02:03 PM

Originally posted by gmagesh14 View Post

@mysti ::
Don't try adjusting the carb now., Finish the run-in period ., Ask the SVC people to do it on service..
Concentrate on engine side rather than on mileage now..

Don’t try to alter the carburetor settings yourself by ‘counting’ the turns of the so called AFR screw as some of our super ‘tuning engineers’ suggest. And don’t complain about the low FE at the service centre unless it is really low.
Instead, keep the bike in a well maintained condition and polish your riding habits. Please remember that an efficient, well experienced engineer too cannot tune the carburetor to gain miraculous FE, even with the help of proper tools.

**SparKot** · 11-01-2011, 02:05 PM

My dilemma

last oil replacement was when my ODO read 5810 kms; Oil filter was changed during my second service (ODO @1800 approx; third oil going in).

Question:
- Now my ODO @8668 kms (i.e 3000 kms on current oil approx).
- My next service is at least 40 days away(last one was 10 days back).

I prefer Shell AX7 Semi-Synth for now;

1. What should I do? when to replace oil filter? I don't think shell guys replace oil filter as well/- (or do they?)

**vikhyath** · 11-01-2011, 02:19 PM

Originally posted by vishnukmd View Post

25-33 psi is not over inflating the tyres. It is the normal pressure.

Chiron's post

Have you ever tried to up shift at around 2.5 K rpm and ride in 6th gear at 28-30 kmh speed? If not, try.

That is the style I follow on good roads. But the roads I travel on require constant downshifting to 3rd or 4th gear because or many obstacles along the road. Hence I cannot expect a high average.

Originally posted by SparKot View Post

I once had 16 psi in my front tyre(ignorant me). the saggy nature of tyre caused the bike to wobble(almost lost control) during U-turns. It scared the s**t out of me(not literally). I keep them about recommended values ever since.

I have noticed many kids in Bangalore who deflate the tyres just to play. It is better to keep checking the pressure even time you visit the fuel station.

Originally posted by SparKot View Post

PS: I'm not happy with my second paid service @Value Suzuki, Yelahanka. Hoping to seek my next paid service with other SVC in B'lore...

Have you tried the service staions at whitefield or Banashankari?

________________________________________
GS150R Owners

**raviteja@suzuki** · 11-01-2011, 02:49 PM

Hi friends i have completed 20000km with my GS .i think it's time for my bike to get serviced .i am facing some problems
1.Sound from exhaust has became louder especially the roaring sound when trottled ,is this because airfilter??.
2.Engine oil color turned into darker much before i expected 1600km is this because oil filter ??
3.Front disk lost it's punch might be disk pads worn out..
4.Back brake has became completely ineffective ..
Airfilter,oilfilter,disk pads,back brake liners
for all above how much they will costs??

My friends are planning to trip Hyd-Srisailam so that i need to get my bike ready

Thanks & Regards
ravi

**mysti** · 11-01-2011, 02:55 PM

Originally posted by vishnukmd View Post

This is a topic we have discussed thousands of times from the very beginning of this thread. Reserve to reserve or full tank to reserve is not accurate or somewhat accurate FE checking methods.
To know the accurate FE, supply a pre-measured quantity of fuel to dried carburetor and ride the bike yourself and alone. The jar used to check FE is available at the service centre.

I understand, its not accurate method but we can get approx average figure.

Although, I will check it again. Ill also try jar method during my 1st service.

Thanks.

**vishnukmd** · 11-01-2011, 03:17 PM

Originally posted by SparKot View Post

Everyone,

I've attached my mileage spreadsheet in both .xlsx and .ods format.

Although I cannot promise that measurements during refills were accurate to every digit I can confidently say: Total Gasoline(Petrol) that went in to feed my GS and total ODO reading are accurate to every digit.

interpreting last entry with 0 refill:
- our fuel gauge on console is in blocks and Manual says(if my memory serves me better) last one block means there is 4 ltrs (approximately) of fuel left in tank. I assume (& presume) it's 7.5 ltrs for two blocks.
- Console's fuel gauge dropped to 2 blocks (from 3) when my ODO read 8621 kms. hence the last entry.

Question about chain:
- I noticed when I rotate rear wheel keeping bike on center stand that chain becomes tighter at certain point of rotation and lose at some other point.
strange but was disappointed about the precision. I thought it could only happen in bicycles....

PS: I'm not happy with my second paid service @Value Suzuki, Yelahanka. Hoping to seek my next paid service with other SVC in B'lore...

The reading of the fuel gauge in any bike is not correct. It shows an approximate quantity of fuel left in the tank and is not correct and reliable.

In future, lube the chain periodically using the mixture of Castrol Premium Formula Gel grease and their own SAE 140 EP Rear Axle Oil if you are not allergic to Castrol. Remove the lower half of the chain cover and rotate the wheel in the reverse direction while lubing so that your fingers are not caught between the chain and rear sprocket.

Originally posted by SparKot View Post

last oil replacement was when my ODO read 5810 kms; Oil filter was changed during my second service (ODO @1800 approx; third oil going in).

Question:
- Now my ODO @8668 kms (i.e 3000 kms on current oil approx).
- My next service is at least 40 days away(last one was 10 days back).

I prefer Shell AX7 Semi-Synth for now;

1. What should I do? when to replace oil filter? I don't think shell guys replace oil filter as well/- (or do they?)

It is better to replace the oil filter every time you change the oil. Either ask the mechanic to fill the oil you bring or buy an oil filter from the SC and change the oil and filter yourself. Remember to buy the oil from its authorized dealer.
The oil filter of our bike is not available outside.

**vikhyath** · 11-01-2011, 03:20 PM

Originally posted by mysti View Post

I understand, its not accurate method but we can get approx average figure.

Although, I will check it again. Ill also try jar method during my 1st service.

Thanks.

IMO, it is useless to calculate mileage before 1st service becauseit will be 25-30% lower than what you will get after the run-in period. On condition that your riding style is gentle and you have completed run-in properly. Try the jar method or other methods after 2nd service. Until then, focus on running in the engine for better results.
________________________________________
GS150R Owners

**vishnukmd** · 11-01-2011, 03:43 PM

Originally posted by vikhyath View Post

I have noticed many kids in Bangalore who deflate the tyres just to play. It is better to keep checking the pressure even time you visit the fuel station.

If it is so, check before every ride.

Originally posted by raviteja@suzuki View Post

Hi friends i have completed 20000km with my GS .i think it's time for my bike to get serviced .i am facing some problems
1.Sound from exhaust has became louder especially the roaring sound when trottled ,is this because airfilter??.
2.Engine oil color turned into darker much before i expected 1600km is this because oil filter ??
3.Front disk lost it's punch might be disk pads worn out..
4.Back brake has became completely ineffective ..
Airfilter,oilfilter,disk pads,back brake liners
for all above how much they will costs??

My friends are planning to trip Hyd-Srisailam so that i need to get my bike ready. Thanks & Regards ravi

1. It is difficult to get rid of this sound. It is not due to the air filter.

3. It is not due to the worn out pads. Get it checked when you go to the SC.
4. It is so in all the modern bikes. It is designed in that way to avoid skidding. Use the front and rear brakes simultaneously.
before you go for the ride.

Originally posted by vikhyath View Post

IMO, it is useless to calculate mileage before 1st service becauseit will be 25-30% lower than what you will get after the run-in period. On condition that your riding style is gentle and you have completed run-in properly. Try the jar method or other methods after 2nd service. Until then, focus on running in the engine for better results.

But the FE in my running in period was 71 kml, due to the cautious riding within 4.5-5 K rpm. But it was in a long ride of about 300 kms through NH.

**mysti** · 11-01-2011, 04:08 PM

Originally posted by vikhyath View Post

IMO, it is useless to calculate mileage before 1st service becauseit will be 25-30% lower than what you will get after the run-in period. On condition that your riding style is gentle and you have completed run-in properly. Try the jar method or other methods after 2nd service. Until then, focus on running in the engine for better results.
________________________________________
GS150R Owners

If it is so, then I think mine is OK.

@vishnu

But the FE in my running in period was 71 kml, due to the cautious riding within 4.5-5 K rpm. But it was in a long ride of about 300 kms through NH

.

Mine is dense traffic roads. I have to ride on 2nd gear for few kms, due to slow moving traffic.

Will it affect it?

**vishnukmd** · 11-01-2011, 04:47 PM

Originally posted by mysti View Post

Mine is dense traffic roads. I have to ride on 2nd gear for few kms, due to slow moving traffic. Will it affect it?

My running in period riding was not in such conditions as most of the long rides were in the very early morning. I too am facing the same situation now when I ride through the town where there is no traffic control and hence the muscle power rules. How can us avoid it? Try to ride in lower rpm, as far as possible.

**SparKot** · 11-01-2011, 04:55 PM

you were right about the total fuel : 110.66 ltrs
however, total ODO is not 8621 it's : 5621 kms
cause I started recording fillings when my ODO was @ 3000 kms
Avg mileage : 50.795 kmpl

Avg mileage is slowly creeping up as I've switched to uncle mode...

Originally posted by vishnukmd View Post

Now take it out from the bike, dip it in kerosene for few hours and loosen each link manually and refit it. Some are using WD 40 or Zorrik 88 for this purpose but some are against it as in almost all matters.

Will find some time to do it; I've tools but not sure they'll help...

I asked them guys(Value Suzuki, Yelahanka SVC) during both paid services to clean chain (not to lube; coz I had Motul chain spray). They were hopeless, there was no point in arguing...
Both SVCs from Value Suzuki(Miller's road & Yelahanka were not convincing in services).

Originally posted by vishnukmd View Post

It is better to replace the oil filter every time you change the oil.
The oil filter of our bike is not available outside.

Will purchase Oil filter from SVC and find some reliable Mech to replace Oil and filter. This time I've to purchase two liters of Oil as they don't come in loose... or will check with Motul distributor(Motorcycle house B'lore) for loose quantity...

**vishnukmd** · 11-01-2011, 05:31 PM

Originally posted by SparKot View Post

Avg mileage is slowly creeping up as I've switched to uncle mode.

Then, how is the AUNT riding?

Originally posted by SparKot View Post

I asked them guys(Value Suzuki, Yelahanka SVC) during both paid services to clean chain (not to lube; coz I had Motul chain spray). They were hopeless, there was no point in arguing...
Both SVCs from Value Suzuki(Miller's road & Yelahanka were not convincing in services).

Let me say, I am totally against chain cleaning because I don’t know why it is essential. Suppose you get 30 K kms without cleaning the chain and 60 K (?!) kms by cleaning it in every 1000 kms. The service centre levies Rs.100/- for every cleaning. That means you are paying Rs. 3000/- for cleaning it.
The cost of a new chain and sprocket set is mere Rs. 925/-. You saves Rs. 2075/- in this case.
Suppose you get 40000 kms by regular cleaning of the chain. Then the expenditure is Rs. 1000/- for cleaning. If you change it at 30000 kms, you saves Rs. 50/-.
Avoid chain cleaning but lube it frequently in every 500-1000 kms with good oil and grease.

Originally posted by SparKot View Post

Will purchase Oil filter from SVC and find some reliable Mech to replace Oil and filter. This time I've to purchase two liters of Oil as they don't come in loose... or will check with Motul distributor(Motorcycle house B'lore) for loose quantity...

Actually, 900 ml of oil is enough if the filter is not changed and 1000 ml if it is changed. Check the oil level before you add that 100 ml.
Why cannot change the oil yourself?

**antonysg** · 11-01-2011, 07:27 PM

Originally posted by gmagesh14 View Post

Ya I'm aware of those figures

., But my question is about the handling

, ie. bike leans to the left side.. whereas in my previous bike Passion Plus I didn't had such strange thing..

If I take two of my hands while riding, the bike kept its position straight in track(road

)... I do like this at times to test the handle bar and the suspension..

In GS I don't face any problem riding in this setup.. But it shouldn't be like this right?

The bike should on track regardless of whether we hold the handlebar or not...

Did you inflate your bike's tyres to the recommended pressure per manual? Does the bike still lean to the left?

Are you are riding on a level road ? Check if any tight cables are pulling your bike's handle.

**antonysg** · 11-01-2011, 07:37 PM

Originally posted by MSN1 View Post

yes, mine is a strange bike which wont starve to go with the same engine oil for 1.25 lakh+ kms

did i said my GS alloy wheels are brittle

my statement on alloy wheel was by general believe that alloy wheels are much stronger than steel rims

Alloy wheels are stronger and far lighter than steel rims and are able to withstand the same stresses better. Where a steel wheel can get bent an alloy wheel wont. If the impact is higher than the alloy wheel is designed for, it breaks. have read and seen picture on many sites about incidents where alloy wheel taken the accident impact and break in to pieces.

these three are the most common alloy wheels in market

1. Magnesium alloy: its more light weight and more strong
2. Mag-Alloy: Expensive one among all.
3. Aluminum alloy (i believe this is the one comes with GS) which doesn't offer the advantage [strength Vs mass advantage] of above two alloys wheels.

i heard about metalica but not an expert when it comes to metals
we have aluminum plates (kitchen) which can be bent easily and cooker made up of aluminum which is bit hard but that also can be bent.

Steel rims are stronger than alloys. Thats why dirt bikes (like hero impulse) have steel rims and spokes.

Those magnesium alloy wheels can catch fire quickly. The type widely available now are of aluminium alloy.

Costly alloy wheels of cars are actually cut out (not moulded) from a cylindrical alloy block. These are quite strong, but if you are unfortunate to hit a really huge pot-hole or something at high speed, these could crack, rather than bend.

But again, most of the alloy wheels available for common man in market are of the die cast moulded type. It is difficult to find out which is the cut-out alloy wheels and which is of the cheaper die cast type. The die cast type is softer and could bend on heavy impact.

All bikes (honda, suzuki, yamah, hero, TVS, bajaj) alloy wheels provided by manufacturer itself are of die cast moulded type (not cut-out). These can suffer bends when riding rashly on our pothole-filled roads. Also, our local puncture repair shops use cheap tools that can bend the rims while removing or fitting tyres.

**Maestro** · 11-02-2011, 12:13 AM

Originally posted by raviteja@suzuki View Post

Hi friends i have completed 20000km with my GS .i think it's time for my bike to get serviced .i am facing some problems
1.Sound from exhaust has became louder especially the roaring sound when trottled ,is this because airfilter??.
Get engine overhauling done at 25k on odo...
2.Engine oil color turned into darker much before i expected 1600km is this because oil filter ??
it tends to change colour after 300kms
3.Front disk lost it's punch might be disk pads worn out..
get it checked from SVC.....and ask them to check the pistons too...
4.Back brake has became completely ineffective ..
brake shoes worn out.....
Airfilter,oilfilter,disk pads,back brake liners
for all above how much they will costs??

My friends are planning to trip Hyd-Srisailam so that i need to get my bike ready

Thanks & Regards
ravi

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