Great stuff...

i assume along with battery case...battery wires too has been extended...

Is Amaron battery you had fitted is maintenance free?

Yes.. the +ve terminal wire had to be extended as the terminals of the Amaron are the other way around..

Yup.. the Amaron Battery is Maintenance free and has 36 Months warranty and the bike is feeling better.. yet to test the battery on night to see if the problem I had with the battery charging has been resolved

Just to add to the context.. Kind of an update for people who might still be wondering...

My oil change was due & I still have 4 ltrs of Rimula R4 left at home.. But still thought of experimenting with some other 10W40 authentic petrol engine oil, just for a peace of mind.. So went ahead & replaced the existing R4 with Shell Ax7 10W40 SS.. Rode for about 70 KM post oil change & here is the observation...

1. Acceleration is for sure better with a lighter oil like 10W40.. Absolutely no doubt on this part..
2. More importantly acceleration is perfectly linear.. both power generation & delivery. This is where I had felt some issue with R4, as if there was some power loss for 3-4 seconds before power delivery used to happen (when I used to revv hard).. Though minor but I always used to doubt a bit of clutch slippage with R4 at higher speeds..
3. Engine definitely feels more free with 10W40

4. However Vibration from engine is definitely more with a 10W40.. Particularly at higher revvs.. For all its wrongs, engine had considerably less vibrations with R4 for sure..

So now the choice is yours.. with either of the oils you get something & loose something.. Damn I had to spend close to 700 bucks for the experiment .. But am happy I did it
Now I would try n see if i can get a suitable 10W40 diesel oil for experiment.. !!

@Divya, I did adhere to the RPM on upshifting, but the slapping happens even in the 2nd gear. Isn't that weird for a new bike that's not even 850 kms old? My driving is totally sane; to add. Inputs please!!

@Divya, I did adhere to the RPM on upshifting, but the slapping happens even in the 2nd gear. Isn't that weird for a new bike that's not even 850 kms old? My driving is totally sane; to add. Inputs please!!

When you say Slapping, do you mean to say that kat kat sound which usually appears when the engine is hot or when riding at a low speed in high gears??

Yes. The only difference is that the piston slapping happens even in the 2nd gear at more than 3000 RPM and when that happens I have to downshift to 1st gear and then go up.

The other day I went to the ASC, the mechanic showed me 3 or 4 bikes with the same problem. One had an issue zeroed down to the fuel injectors, the rest had nothing conclusive to put the blame on.

This noise is usually because of the oil. Did you change your oil in the first 850kms?? Like @Divya Sharan said.. The 10W30 Engine Oil provided by Hero is just crap and the drain period of it is nothing more than 800.. The more you run on it... the blacker the oil gets which in turn reduces the performance of your bike..

ZMA/ZMR don't have RCF rockers (Roller Cam Follower) and so definitely need ZDDP,or boron in engine oil....with the gross reduction of these compounds in modern Gasoline engine oil, the first to perish is the Valve train followed by rings and then gears and bearings....

bike straining to get past 52 (thereafter I leave it to that) and sudden engine kills (engine goes off and I have to restart).

It's around 4000 RPM and 52–60 in 5th gear. No matter what I do, the figures don't go up. It strains past 52, so I don't take it higher forcibly. This is exactly what led me suspect the FI. Don't you feel it's weird: the RPM, speed, and gear co-relation?

See, its in the factor 0f 16 kmph per 1000 RPM in 5th, so 48 kmph is 3k and 64 is 4k RPM. FI shouldn't ideally go bad in less than 50k kms, yours is still <1k. Get your clutch plates checked though! Also, how is the air filter? Damn, 850 kms is too less to predict.

Thanks. I'll check the air filter this evening. It's a new ride, and that's what baffling me!