Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Easy, just touch the messages you want and click the reply button on top.

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Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Guys a quick que. Do Rolon make O-ring type chains for ZMA? If yes could you please help me with the contact person?

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Guys, has anyone fixed Tank Pad on your tank? Please respond, I am a lil confused on how/where to put.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Its supposed to be put on the headlight. Lol its a tank pad obviously you stick it on the tank.
Here have a look at this-


Image taken from this thread.

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Re: Karizma/Karizma R

HAHA!! :/ you could have done without the first statement! Obviously its supposed to be put on the tank so that need not be stated explicitly nor can that be a matter of confusion!
Mine is a little small in length so was wondering whether to stick more towards the fuel cap or towards seat.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Well the purpose of a tank pad is to protect the tank so placing a small one near the tank cap won't protect the area near the seat at all which is the most vulnerable to damage, soo you know what to do now.

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Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Cool! Thanks.
Any tips on how/what to clean the area with before sticking so that it sticks good? Only cleaning with MF cloth would suffice?

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

I guess just wash the bike well and make sure its completely dry and apply the pad which already has a good adhesive to stick properly. Nothing special needed.

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Electrical issue

Its a HUGE post, and you can avoid the description of the issue and jump to conclusion at the end.



My bike is 7 years old and I have been using 55/60W bulb since 6 years without any modifications to the electrical system. Everything was normal until three months ago when it developed console flashing/flickering of parking lamps and headlight at a night while touring, exactly like what is shown in the video below. Bike would run normally without stopping when this happened. At one point, the time and trip was reset. When I stopped the bike and switched off the ignition, and then switched on again, noticed no power to console and even electric start didn't work. Used kick start to start the bike and the console came back alive normally. After some riding, the flashing has recurred. I came back like that to home and thought what could be the problem. Sensed there was a loose contact and remembered once I cut the wiring under the tank to put a horn relay. The next day morning the bike started normally and ran normally without any issues. I opened the joint below the tank and joined the wires and sealed off properly, and also cleaned the battery contacts. After that the problem has not recurred for many days and I was happy.

Suddenly, the problem resurfaced again, in one ride, at night, with headlights on, with no engine shut off though. I stopped after some time and turned the key off, and then turned it on. The bike was completely dead with no electricals working. Checked all the fuse and they were normal. Started the bike with kick and the electricals came back alive. Resumed my riding and the flashing/flickering resurfaced again. After riding for sometime, stopped again and switched off the key and turned it on again, and everything was dead again. Leaving the key in on position, I was talking to my friends, and after 2-3 minutes, the console was back automatically without me doing anything. I was so confused and puzzled and started to suspect failing RR unit (once my mechanic said my RR unit was heating up more and that I should change it, but didn't buy that because everything was normal). I completed the ride like that, and the next day morning bike started normally without any issues. I called up PSR sir for inputs, and he suggested me to check the relay contacts, fuse contacts and ignition switch contacts. As the bike was starting without any issue, failing RR unit was ruled out. I checked the battery contacts again, and then plugged out the relay and cleaned it (without any spray) normally and plugged it back. Also, as I never cleaned under the seat with water for many years, I gave my bike for water washing without the seat and cleaned the area under the seat with high pressure jet for considerable amount of time. The bike started normally after this and the problem has not recurred for almost 40 days. Thought cleaning the dirt around the electricals worked. :P

Now, the problem has recurred 10 days back. Called up PSR sir again, and now the real diagnosis begun. Cleaned the fuse contacts and relay contacts this time with Anti-rust spray/cleaner. Checked the battery voltage and it showed only around 12.8 instead of 14+ at idling. We started to suspect the battery also as the battery (9A Bosch MF battery) had been 4.5 years old. Opened up the RR unit and cleaned up contacts and then measured the output of RR and it showed constant 3V, with initial intermittent spikes up to 12V. We were quite surprised as to how battery is showing 13.8V when RR unit was supplying only 3V. Then, we thought of checking with RR unit from other bike. The output from the RR unit of other ZMA also showed the same constant 3V. PSR later clarified me that the digital multimeters can't read the pulse voltage from the RR unit. So, with my RR seems to work as good as other one, we were suspecting the 4.5 year-old battery, but with only half-heart. The bike was normal for a couple of days and the issue recurred again at one night. Frustrated with this, the same day I bought new Amaron MF 9A battery and replaced the old BOSCH battery.

The next day, that is last Sunday, I went for a 250-km ride. That early morning bike started normally and with head light on, I rode for a couple of kms and the console started to flash. I switched off the headlight and after 15 seconds, the console is back to normal. I switched on the headlight again and after around 20-30 seconds, the flashing resurfaced again. I did this for 4-5 times and every time I switched on the headlight, the console was flashing. With new battery, I strongly suspected the RR unit, as the problem is coming only when the headlight on (I thought the headlight use was causing the RR unit to heat up there by causing thermal failure). To my utter surprise, the console started to flash even without the headlights after sometime. The bike didn't start even though the console light was on, as if the battery was weak. The problem has surfaced for 5-6 times during the ride. I was almost pissed off and thought of changing the RR unit that day itself. That evening, I noticed too much dimming of parking lamps (front and back) when indicators were used. The console light and neutral switch were seriously flickering at idle, though there was no flickering with engine off. The headlight dimmed considerably and was bright only when the brake lights or the indicators were on (yes, you read it right) :O.

I went to my mechanic and tested the battery voltage again and it showed only around 13.8 like old battery. We took the bike to an electrician who works on bike wiring. Surprisingly, the console was working normally at that time. When we explained the problem, he told me that the parking lamps are dimming because of the 55/60w bulb and that he asked me to change back to stock. Also he suggested me to change the LED pilot lamps to normal incandescent lamps. I didn't say anything even though I was not convinced of what he said. When I explained him that the real problem was not the dimming, but the console flashing, and that the battery is showing less voltage, then without even checking anything, he just told us to replace the RR unit. When I expressed doubt, he said he knows the problem and its just because of RR unit and changing it would solve all the issues.

The next day, I took my bike to another xBhpian, Souritra, who has the knowledge to check electricals. We checked the connections from RR unit to battery. There I cleaned up the RR unit contacts with anti-rust spray, and then checked the battery voltage and it still showed only around 13.8V. We fiddled the wiring a bit and then later, suddenly the battery started to show 14+ volts at idling. So, we thought everything from RR unit to battery working fine, and thought the dimming of electricals is a different issue and that there is some serous loose contact/drainage somewhere in the electricals from relay to headlight/console. I rode back to home and whenever I put load on the electricals (indicators, brake light, or horn), the console started to flash. PSR sir told me to check for any earthing/ground issue to rule out any negative discharge. The next day, the console started to flash all the time irrespective of any electrical load. The pilot lamps were flickering/dimming even when the engine was off, but the bike would start, indicating enough power in battery. I was concerned very much and went to Souritra and checked the wiring systematically with the guidance from PSR sir. The headlight was not working and parking lights were very dim and were going off, even though we were able to light a 60W bulb from battery directly. We checked the resistance across the frame and it was nil indicating proper ground/earthing. We bypassed the ignition from battery and checked and it was normal. Finally we checked voltage across the fuse under the seat. From battery the power comes to 15A meter fuse via the main relay, and we noticed only 10A at the fuse terminal though the battery terminal has 14+ volts. Also we found voltage difference between electrodes of the fuse indicating bad fuse. I immediately replaced the fuse with new spare fuse available in the box. Now, we bypassed the relay and the fuse and connected battery directly with a separate wire and, viola! the console, parking lights, and headlight started to work fine without any flickering, even under load from indicators and brake lights. So, finally we narrowed down the problem to be between Relay and fuse box. So, now, we thought, we have to either change the wiring harness or do rewiring between relay to fuse box which is concealed in main wiring. So we postponed the work for next day.

Then, the next day, I mean today, I thought of giving a last chance by re-cleaning the contacts at relay and the fuse box again. This time I opened up and pulled out all the contacts and cleaned them thoroughly with chain cleaner, an then with anti-rust spray. Rubbed the sockets and pressed them closely so that they lock/seat properly without any loose contact. Replaced the 20A main fuse in the relay with new one after I noticed a small melting in electrode. Put everything back and switched on the ignition. The console was back and the lights were solid without any flickering. There was only slight dimming when indicators and brake lights were on, which seems to be normal. Everything was normal so far till now, and I hope it continues.

A simple contact issue on top of Relay caused so much problem. Had I gone to SVC, I would have ended up changing battery, relay, RR unit, and then finally wiring harness. Thank God, and to @psr sir, I was able to solve the issue myself.

So, my CONCLUSION AND SUGGESTIONS to fellow ZMA owners. Please change all the fuses periodically every year. Also, please clean all the contacts of RR unit, Relay, and fuse box periodically with WD40 spray to keep the wiring in perfect condition. I have never cleaned them in the last 6 years and you know what happened.

On a different note, thanks to this problem, I learnt many things about wiring in my ZMA. The next time anything happens, I know where to look and what to do.

Hence my bike proves that a 55/60w bulb can be used in ZMA without any issues of overloading the wiring harness. I have been using the 55/60W bulb for the past 6 years.

And sorry for such a HUGE Post.


SUMMARY: Contacts/terminals on the main relay developed corrosion inside resulting in poor/reduced supply of power to console making it flash/flicker. Contacts were cleaned thoroughly and everything is back to normal.

Re: Electrical issue

Damn I stopped reading like after 40% and skipped to the conclusion.

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Re: Electrical issue

Sorry, described the entire issue so that it might help someone.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Start from the base of the tank which comes in contact with the seat. The primary job of the center tank pad is to save the tank from scratches from your pants' zip!
Side tank pads are used to avoid scratches from the protective armor like knee guards and stuff.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Thankyou. Got it.

@ravi@17bhp..Phew! long read. Such a small thing and so much of trouble.
This was happening with me too some time back. First we thought the battery had drained so charged it fully but still same status and then my mech found 20A fuse to be the culprit within 5 minutes. Now I'm glad he did!

On another note, getting 7.5, 15 and 20A fuses is a big headache here for me so far. Finding 10A ones is easy but no one seems to stock 15, 20 and 7.5A. I am running two fuses with jugaad as of now!

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

I have checked the fuse the first thing. It was normal at that time and it was replaced too. This melting was developed very recently and I found that only today. In my case, more than the fuse, the contacts were the issue.

And please get the correct stock fuse. The juggad fuses are highly risky in case of any power surge.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

when you say 1.1-1.3k, do you mean the idle rpm or when the enine is hot?