Re: Electrical issue

Your description is necessary , so that in future members can read and understand the problem, the symptoms, and the solution....
It was good to resolve the specific problem of yours, and keep an eye on the connectors and sockets on top of the Starter relay...it is the main power source feeder, connection.
Good Luck

Re: Electrical issue

Looking for suggestions from the fellow XBhpians. I am planning to remove the entire front mask with the speedo meter console and the stock handle bar. Planning to use a RD350 handlebar, round headlights and a avenger speedometer.

Looking for suggestions and advice

Heres the Handle bar I have already procured. I want the bike to look something like this after the mods.

Re: Electrical issue

Read everything, thank you very much for sharing. I had my share of issues too, but they were definitely related to the RR (we even bought a new relay to test what had happened!). Good info.

Good luck.

Re: Electrical issue

Thanks for reading with patience. Could you please share your issue for me? I am sure you would have mentioned on this forum before, but can't search it easily. I would like to know what exactly happens when RR unit fails.

Re: Electrical issue

Yes Ravi, I believe I mentioned it here http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/motorcyc...tml#post969826
and added a heatsink as well http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/motorcyc...tml#post972258

I was riding along sedately when the bike stopped all of a sudden. Since I was very near home, I pushed it and tried to identify the issue, but since it was evening already I did it the next day.
As usual, PSR's help was invaluable but also my mechanic friend helped. We took the bike to his garage, he checked for shorts, he traced it immediately to the 20a fuse being blown when thumbing the starter. we bought a bunch of 20a fuses as well, but one after another kept conking out. We traced the fault to the RR (on the RR being disconnected, the fuse wouldn't blow). We checked using a new relay switch, but the same thing happened, and we narrowed it down to the RR unit. Bought a new RR and things were normal again.

That is, till last week, when my battery died, and I had to buy a new Amaron to replace it. The old battery was an aftermarket one and we weren't able to revive it.

Re: Electrical issue

Thank you! Now I know what it would be if RR unit fails. And with my experience, I can troubleshoot myself in case of any electrical issue in my bike.

Re: Electrical issue

Thanks to this thread and a help of a lot of like minded people, I believe all of us can do a lot of troubleshooting. At the very least, no one can take us for a ride .

Re: Electrical issue

Updating this thread on my recent ride to Meghamalai on 29th Nov-1st Dec.
Odometer: 26k done (before the trip)
Oil used:- AX7 - 10w40
Tyre : M45 tubed.

Here is my experience on AX7 10w40 which I bought for Rs. 300 after discount. I changed the old oil (Mobil 1 10w40 fully synth) just for the sake of 1200kms road trip ahead. As it is was good but blame my proactive approach.

Next day (ride day), I started off my bike..it was bit rusty in the sense the acceleration was not that good. I was thinking that during course of time it should be ok. But that did not happen. My acceleration was comparitively less than before and the bike struggled the revv at 90- 100 kmph. I don't blame the oil, it was just that I was spoiled by fully synthetic which I was using for last 7-8k kms.

Lesson learned is my bike runs good when it is filled with fully synthetic oil. It's my personal opinion.

Thanks to PSR Sir for tweaking my bike's carb that I did not face major issue except that couple of times it did make the bike face the slide stuck like issue however, it disappeared soon than I expected that it would bring the bike to a halt.

Fuel- Thanks to my dear friends here, now I can vouch that ZMA tank capacity is around 15L as I was able to fill 14.70L when I just then hit the reserve however, did not fill to the brim so leaving some space for the breather to prevent air lock.
Economy- Since I own 2strokes, forgot the concept of calculating fuel economy consciously, however, made an attempt this time and found it had returned somewhere around 36kmpl overall. I was riding around 90-110kmph during the 4 lane highway and 10-20kmph during the 100 km ghats section.

Michelin M45 really performed well with tube where there only path exists and tarmac is long forgotten in Meghamalai town and around. Few big bikes that came along for the ride had a tough time going over the boulder like stones pathway and even lost traction that they just holded from almost fall during the slow speed ever-traction defying terrain.

ZMA performed as usually well and M45 was good enough that I was even took a pillion half the jourey on these challenging off-roads while exploring the mountain. Touchwood, I did not face any puncture, oh! let me not even say it. I should really consider lucky as there hardly any commerical establishments except for a small time tea shop cum fastfood type in that entire mountain top and mechanic shop is atleast 50kms down the hill.

After riding there at Meghamalai in those wonderful bed of roses, I would stop complaining about any bad patch or road in my city atleast for sometime.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

[MENTION=63811]Night_Shade[/MENTION]: waiting for you review on the new rubbers

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[MENTION=63811]Night_Shade[/MENTION]: waiting for you review on the new rubbers

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

the manual recommends engine oil change every 6000km and a top-up every 2000km. The service interval is 90 days or 6000km whichever is earlier. But I barely complete 3000km in 90 days, but I still go for the service every time.
It's been 5 years and only this time is an exception. I didn't find the time and it's more than 3 months and 3500km. So can I just top-up the engine oil and go for service when i reach 6000km?
when you say top-up can I just get the engine oil and fill it up using a funnel?

Re: The cleaned up Relay

Here are some pics of the main relay after cleaning up thoroughly.

It was all dirty before the cleanup. The contacts were all dirty and developed some resistance, which affected the power supply to the console, there by causing console flashing, flickering of lights.










Initially, I just cleaned only the plug and the sockets and thought everything was clean. Later, I pulled up the cover on the top of the plug and cleaned the terminals thoroughly. This is where corrosion developed.




The main 20A fuse, a normal visual check says its fine as the connection between the two electrodes looks fine, but see the electrode, which developed little melting with bubble texture inside. This was the main culprit for continuous flashing of console at the final stage.




Cleaned up all the contacts in the fuse box with antirust spray, and replaced all the old fuse with new ones.




For those who want to replace the stock 7A battery with 9A, this is the simple solution. Just bend the metal rod and use a bigger screw to lock it.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

If it's mineral oil, no.
Also need to check levels. Why not drain it yourself or with the help of a good mechanic?

It didn't work in my case - the rear of the battery cage had to be cut out else it wouldn't fit.
I see you have a broken fairing clip. You can fix it with Araldite (the normal variety). You will need to let it set overnight, and it'll be good as new.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

yeah, I should try doing it myself. it's the stock oil. I've not used any other oil till now.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Its strange why it didn't work for you. Is there a change in construction of the battery cage in later Karizmas? My bike's battery cage supported the size of regular 7A maintenance battery. Are the new Karizma's coming with MF batteries which are small in size?

And regarding the fairing clip, it just broke recently. I am yet to fix it. I have lots of broken joints in my fairing; I have fixed them with feviquick first to secure in place, and then applied m-seal around the joint to strengthen it. I have been doing that since last 6 years . I even applied m-seal around the joints for non-broken joints too so that they remain strong. As you said, I will try Araldite next time.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

It's a 2009 ZMA - the Amaron jutted out about 1.5 inches or more and I could not fix the clamp even with bending as the outside fairing cover would not go on properly. After removing the rear of the cage, the battery fitted in 'normally' and I didn't need to bend the clamp either. I used a thin sheet of thermocol on the rear of the battery to further damp vibrations.

I found that M seal works, but not too well, it tends to get brittle after a while and will break, and then it's tougher to remove it. Araldite forms a VERY strong bond that will sustain even better and won't break easily. I used it for the front fairing and the side covers as well, it's holding up well so far (even after a bumpy recent trip) . Only drawback is you'll have to use it after breakage (while as I read earlier, many were applying M Seal before breakage on joints) - that, and the fact that it'll take 12+ hours to form a proper bond.