Announcement

**SriramEfunds** · 11-07-2014, 09:26 PM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Originally posted by ravi@17bhp View Post

Tempered is the gold color shield. Its 1142 mrp.

Ravi, I will need that heat shield.

Hero Honda Karizma
Year: 2004
As per odo : 22,000 kms
Condition : Abused

The shagged ride visited the doc today. PSR sir helped resurrecting worst to bad state but there is more to be done.

Front brake Master cylinder had everything inside but fluid. Was swept clean and renewed the braking.

Changed the spark plug, idling bettered.

Sump cleaned up

**psr** · 11-08-2014, 10:47 AM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

The Master Cylinder had Zero brake oil, and huge caked deposit which was cleaned by scraping it out....flushed with new brake oil only to find blackish old oil coming out of Caliper....and to find that the master cylinder does not hold the new oil and is leaking...need to change the master cylinder kit and see...the bottom fairing, additional wind tone horn everything makes rattling noise....after shutting them up only we can hear the true engine sound....but as it stands not happy with the idling...The pressure from exhaust is immense...more than my or your ZMA...so engine seems to be in GREAT condition...needs a lot of care to return the Lady to her glory days....still worth it...It is a ZMA

**acs1207** · 11-08-2014, 10:54 AM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Originally posted by SriramEfunds View Post

Ravi, I will need that heat shield.

Hero Honda Karizma
Year: 2004
As per odo : 22,000 kms
Condition : Abused

The shagged ride visited the doc today. PSR sir helped resurrecting worst to bad state but there is more to be done.

Front brake Master cylinder had everything inside but fluid. Was swept clean and renewed the braking.

Changed the spark G]

Originally posted by psr View Post

The Master Cylinder had Zero brake oil, and huge caked deposit which was cleaned by scraping it out....flushed with new brake oil only to find blackish old oil coming out of Caliper....Only to find that the master cylinder does not hold the new oil and is leaking...need to change the master cylinder kit and see...the bottom fairing, additional wind tone horn everything makes rattling noise....after shutting them up only we can hear the true engine sound....but as it stands not happy with the idling...The pressure from exhaust is immense...more than my or your ZMA...so engine seems to be in GREAT condition...needs a lot of care to return the Lady to her glory days....still worth it...It is a ZMA

**SriramEfunds** · 11-08-2014, 07:17 PM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Today, took the ZMA for a spin and here is my observation:-

1. Handlebar is sided out to right. Bend!
2. It takes time to cut the throttle when engaged clutch, so its like rising...clutch plate issue?
3. As checked by PSR sir, the starter motor is either gone or need attention as to why it is not working.
4. Master cylinder issue persist. Sometimes the front brake lever goes all the way to touch throttle as if there is no fluid resistance and gives me a THRILLER!
5. After engine warmed, say riding for 5 kms or so, the idle stares at 2k rpm and sometimes even more.
6. Shoxs, front, even on small bumps its not soft and throws feedback on handlebar. Might go for fork oil change. Rear, a bumpy ride, think the pair needs replacement.
7. Front body parts, need minor adjustments. Will need discuss with PSR sir on fiberglass work.
8. Above All - the accelerator gives me goose bumps , woah, its completely different than my 2011 model. Can't believe that it throws a clean pull and much quicker to reach mid range. Let's see how the resurrection goes.

**The Pain** · 11-09-2014, 01:09 AM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Originally posted by SriramEfunds View Post

Today, took the ZMA for a spin and here is my observation:-

1. Handlebar is sided out to right. Bend!
2. It takes time to cut the throttle when engaged clutch, so its like rising...clutch plate issue?
3. As checked by PSR sir, the starter motor is either gone or need attention as to why it is not working.
4. Master cylinder issue persist. Sometimes the front brake lever goes all the way to touch throttle as if there is no fluid resistance and gives me a THRILLER!
5. After engine warmed, say riding for 5 kms or so, the idle stares at 2k rpm and sometimes even more.
6. Shoxs, front, even on small bumps its not soft and throws feedback on handlebar. Might go for fork oil change. Rear, a bumpy ride, think the pair needs replacement.
7. Front body parts, need minor adjustments. Will need discuss with PSR sir on fiberglass work.
8. Above All - the accelerator gives me goose bumps , woah, its completely different than my 2011 model. Can't believe that it throws a clean pull and much quicker to reach mid range. Let's see how the resurrection goes.

Did you get a 2nd zma? How much did u pay for it?

From my LG-G2 via Tapatalk.

**ashwinprakas** · 11-09-2014, 03:04 AM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Originally posted by SriramEfunds View Post

Today, took the ZMA for a spin and here is my observation:-

1. Handlebar is sided out to right. Bend!

The ZMA's handle bar is well known for getting bent on the least possible impact, mine and Aneesh's were the best example, hence replace.

2. It takes time to cut the throttle when engaged clutch, so its like rising...clutch plate issue?

A little more elaboration would have been fine, anyways say with the clutch engaged you close throttle and instead of slowing down, the bike for a fraction of a second acts like the throttle is still on. If thats the case then start inspecting;

1. Throttle body movement (ignore if you have both A and B cables on).
2. Throttle body clearance.
3. Slide body.
4. Carb body.
5. Slide spring tension.
6. Needle wear.

4. Master cylinder issue persist. Sometimes the front brake lever goes all the way to touch throttle as if there is no fluid resistance and gives me a THRILLER!

Assuming that you've made sure that the brake fluid/brake lines have been replaced, I would suggest you replace the master cylinder seals, which if my memory serves me right is impossible to source, so consider replacing the master cylinder. And does this mostly happen after you've used the brake considerably or does it happen irrespective of the brake use? If its the first then it would be best if you also look into the brake caliper, mainly the pistons/sliders, seals.

5. After engine warmed, say riding for 5 kms or so, the idle stares at 2k rpm and sometimes even more.

Discussed a thousand times or more through out xBhp, get some carb cleaner or WD40 and start inspecting. I dont recommend these methods because in my case I directly went ahead and replaced the manifold and that was the end of it. It is not safe to ride the bike like this, because after the motor gets really hot, the engine would die when you give throttle, unless there is apt intake velocity, i.e if you get stuck in traffic you have to make sure the throttle is cracked open else the bike would die and wont start/run unless the motor has considerably cooled down.

6. Shoxs, front, even on small bumps its not soft and throws feedback on handlebar. Might go for fork oil change. Rear, a bumpy ride, think the pair needs replacement.

If you've been running low for a long time then its safe to assume that the springs are shot, so better source them as well.

Replies in BOLD.

**psr** · 11-09-2014, 10:31 AM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Originally posted by SriramEfunds View Post

Today, took the ZMA for a spin and here is my observation:-

1. Handlebar is sided out to right. Bend!
We can remove the bend and use it, or go for New one...
2. It takes time to cut the throttle when engaged clutch, so its like rising...clutch plate issue?
more like Air leak or lean AFR
3. As checked by PSR sir, the starter motor is either gone or need attention as to why it is not working.
The Starter Motor Brushes are gone and need replacement.
4. Master cylinder issue persist. Sometimes the front brake lever goes all the way to touch throttle as if there is no fluid resistance and gives me a THRILLER!
By now most of the brake fluid had leaked out...
5. After engine warmed, say riding for 5 kms or so, the idle stares at 2k rpm and sometimes even more.
Must check for lean AFR or Air leak.
6. Shoxs, front, even on small bumps its not soft and throws feedback on handlebar. Might go for fork oil change. Rear, a bumpy ride, think the pair needs replacement.
Most probably no fork oil...
7. Front body parts, need minor adjustments. Will need discuss with PSR sir on fiberglass work.
Yes can be done...
8. Above All - the accelerator gives me goose bumps , woah, its completely different than my 2011 model. Can't believe that it throws a clean pull and much quicker to reach mid range. Let's see how the resurrection goes.
Since it is 2004 model, it has the Aggressive CDI....be prepared for lower FE...

Answers in BOLD.

**SriramEfunds** · 11-10-2014, 10:16 PM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Udpate -2 - 2004 Karizma

Today thought would change the engine oil, remove the belly cowl and check before going further. I had Castrol Oil 15w40 (synthetic technology) gifted by xbhp last year being lying for a long time. Took the opportunity to change the oil and removed the belly cowl which was just put on without rubber creating lot of vibration. After the engine oil change there seem to be some change that I felt some smoothness and a fraction of change in the engine noise. With bent handlebar it's scary when it comes to turns at intersections and loop bridges. Showroom has not stocked these. Damn!

Surprise! After taking out for a spin and came home, neighbour requested to move the bike to other side so they can bring the wide bodied truck all the way in to unload goods. Involutarily I put the key turned on the ignition and pressed the button and fired up clean! So when I tried again, it did not fire up. Bad luck. So I suspect some loose connection somewhere. Now I would just check the relay or starter motor itself. If there was some fault with relay or starter motor, my guess it would have not cranked at all.

Immediate Action Item:-

1. Change the handlebar & fork oil change.
2. Rear brake shoe change. Front brakes is still an issue.
3. Rightside mirror.

To follow:-

1. Rear brake lights
2. Body parts fibreglass work
3. Mirror

**s1d** · 11-10-2014, 11:39 PM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Originally posted by SriramEfunds View Post

If there was some fault with relay or starter motor, my guess it would have not cranked at all.

Is battery ok ? If you are unsure, do get it checked.

**BPD** · 11-11-2014, 12:28 AM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Originally posted by SriramEfunds View Post

2. Body parts fibreglass work

Never knew you had a karizma.
What type of body work you are referring? Fixing the cracks?
Though I have removed the complete fairing, but still worried for the rest. If you have come up with any idea to fix the plastic parts, please share the funda to the poor soul.

Soulfuel

**SriramEfunds** · 11-11-2014, 12:50 AM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Originally posted by s1d View Post

Is battery ok ? If you are unsure, do get it checked.

The previous owner has given me the warranty card and bill of battery purchased in August. As far as it was tested with multimeter it was putting up good figures above 13 volts if I could remember. However, will check.

----consecutive posts auto-merged-----

Originally posted by BPD View Post

Never knew you had a karizma.

It was my second bike. I have 2011 Karizma-R and this is used Karizma of 2004 model. See the signature.

What type of body work you are referring? Fixing the cracks?
Though I have removed the complete fairing, but still worried for the rest. If you have come up with any idea to fix the plastic parts, please share the funda to the poor soul.

Soulfuel

Kindly go to the previous page and take a moment to read the complete post. I have posted pictures too.

**ashwinprakas** · 11-11-2014, 02:04 AM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Just curious, when you thumb the starter and the bike doesnt start, does the relay click? Just to experiment why not swap the relay with you other ZMA, either you solve the problem or you rule out one more possible cause.

"If there was some fault with relay or starter motor, my guess it would have not cranked at all. "

Sometimes when relays get old(or there isnt enough power to pull) they have a tendency to stick, hence why the above reply.

**ankit.traveller** · 11-11-2014, 04:37 PM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Hi,

Just removed engine belly fairing. Reason- want to install a crash guard. Yesterday my cousin had a bad accident on his ZMA, he has broken his left leg because bike fell over leg and Dr is saying that operation required .

Read lot of posts of crash guard installation in this thread and I concluded that Honda Stunner crash guard is direct fit, just have to remove side reflectors and cut U-clamp bolt to avoid front fender scrapping. Also If I am correct honda Dazzler crash guard may fit in ZMA?

Is there any other crash guard available which can be installed without removing reflectors?

**Manoj76** · 11-11-2014, 04:58 PM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

You can also use CBZ Xtreme's crash guard. Vaas2000 and I have it on our bikes.

Sent from my MB525 using Tapatalk 2

**ankit.traveller** · 11-11-2014, 06:09 PM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Originally posted by Manoj76 View Post

You can also use CBZ Xtreme's crash guard. Vaas2000 and I have it on our bikes.

Sent from my MB525 using Tapatalk 2

But I think cbz guard will kiss the fairings and in case of even a minor fall it will damage fairings. Correct me if wrong.

Announcement

Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment