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**Divya Sharan** · 01-12-2016, 03:29 PM

Re: Gear shift problem

Originally posted by yvthakar View Post

Hi All,
I am really confused on what next should I be doing !!

While our esteemed members reply, please try the following:
1. Lube the entire clutch cable.
2. Increase play in your clutch lever (left handlebar side) by approx 5 mm.
3. Pre-load the gear shifter a bit (just enough so that you feel the shifter through your shoes, but not so much to cause a clutch-less shift), before pulling in the clutch lever. Once done correctly, as soon as you pull in the lever and apply little pressure on the shifter, gears would start changing seamlessly!

BUT, the most important query is this: Did you just change the clutch plates or did you change pressure plates as well? What was the cost incurred?

**RohIIT** · 01-12-2016, 04:21 PM

Re: Gear shift problem

Originally posted by yvthakar View Post

Hi All,
I have 3 year old Karizma R with 20,000 kms done. Recently I had problems with my gear shifting, it was very hard so took the bike to the mechanic. I wanted to go to some good mechanic so after reading some reviews I approached Ahmad from Bike Guru in Pune and he suggested to change the Clutch plates and other parts of clutch assembly. But even after changing everything the gear shifts are still very hard. I told him about the same and he did some clutch adjusted but it didn't help. Showed the bike to another mechanic who also did minor adjustments but again of no use. The second mechanic also complained that the power output is not upto the mark.

I am really confused on what next should I be doing !!

1. Clean chain using kerosene (Thoroughly)
2. Lube chain using chain spray from Rolon /Diamond
3. Keep clutch freeplay within limits , not too high , not too low.

**yvthakar** · 01-12-2016, 05:54 PM

Re: Gear shift problem

Originally posted by Divya Sharan View Post

While our esteemed members reply, please try the following:
1. Lube the entire clutch cable.
2. Increase play in your clutch lever (left handlebar side) by approx 5 mm.
3. Pre-load the gear shifter a bit (just enough so that you feel the shifter through your shoes, but not so much to cause a clutch-less shift), before pulling in the clutch lever. Once done correctly, as soon as you pull in the lever and apply little pressure on the shifter, gears would start changing seamlessly!

BUT, the most important query is this: Did you just change the clutch plates or did you change pressure plates as well? What was the cost incurred?

Divya, thanks for your reply, below are my comments

1. Installed new clutch cable with clutch plates
2. Mechanic tried this settings
3. I will try to do this gear shifter setting

I changed clutch plates and also many other clutch related items. I will check (in the bill) if pressure plates are changed or not. The total cost related to clutch assembly was around Rs. 3000/- including labour.

----consecutive posts auto-merged-----

Originally posted by RohIIT View Post

1. Clean chain using kerosene (Thoroughly)
2. Lube chain using chain spray from Rolon /Diamond
3. Keep clutch freeplay within limits , not too high , not too low.

Rohit, the chain was lubed by the mechanic, and two different mechanics tried to adjust the free play, but was not useful.

**Divya Sharan** · 01-12-2016, 07:01 PM

Re: Gear shift problem

Originally posted by yvthakar View Post

1. Installed new clutch cable with clutch plates

Yes, this is what I was specifically asking, only clutch plates or pressure plates as well? Also 3k seems a lot.

**AK3D** · 01-13-2016, 08:07 PM

Re: Gear shift problem

Originally posted by Lakkakula Ravi Kiran View Post

hi guys. finally i got the reason for my issue . i managed to get in touch with a famous karizma mechanic and he took a ride on my bike with me on back and immideatly found the metallic sound coming out during rising in low rpms. After the ride he asked me about the petrol i used and i confirmed it is standard petrol .so he told me it a problem coming from the connecting rod and the bushes . he told me generally when the engine when gets hots there is a general metal expansion through out the engine and same is case within the crank so dude to this irregular movement of the crank connecting rod the piston is making this sound and there will be almost no pick up.... he told me he must remove the full engine and check the within and confirm . an estimate of 5k is told by him including his service charges....

will update soon with the pictures ..... thanks guys ...

I hope that 'famous' mechanic has diagnosed everything correctly.
I repeat (as I did a few posts earlier to someone) that if you had bothered to read this thread -

1) You would know that bike heating up is due to a lean AFR - you would need to try running 3.5 turns out and see if it makes a difference in the heat and noise.
2) The engine getting hotter results in expansion of all components, nothing new there.
3) Noise can be anything from rockers, to timing chain/tensioner, to tappet noise. You need to identify what the noise is.
4) 5K ? Good luck.

Originally posted by yvthakar View Post

Hi All,
I have 3 year old Karizma R with 20,000 kms done. Recently I had problems with my gear shifting, it was very hard so took the bike to the mechanic. I wanted to go to some good mechanic so after reading some reviews I approached Ahmad from Bike Guru in Pune and he suggested to change the Clutch plates and other parts of clutch assembly. But even after changing everything the gear shifts are still very hard. I told him about the same and he did some clutch adjusted but it didn't help. Showed the bike to another mechanic who also did minor adjustments but again of no use. The second mechanic also complained that the power output is not upto the mark.

I am really confused on what next should I be doing !!

1) Replace the clutch cable
2) Adjust the clutch free play
3) What oil are you using and what is your change interval?

Also note clutch and pressure plates should both be replaced. I like the way people are spending money on their bikes without doing research on this thread and the ZMR one.

**yvthakar** · 01-14-2016, 03:55 PM

Re: Gear shift problem

Originally posted by AK3D View Post

I hope that 'famous' mechanic has diagnosed everything correctly.
I repeat (as I did a few posts earlier to someone) that if you had bothered to read this thread -

1) You would know that bike heating up is due to a lean AFR - you would need to try running 3.5 turns out and see if it makes a difference in the heat and noise.
2) The engine getting hotter results in expansion of all components, nothing new there.
3) Noise can be anything from rockers, to timing chain/tensioner, to tappet noise. You need to identify what the noise is.
4) 5K ? Good luck.

1) Replace the clutch cable
2) Adjust the clutch free play
3) What oil are you using and what is your change interval?

Also note clutch and pressure plates should both be replaced. I like the way people are spending money on their bikes without doing research on this thread and the ZMR one.

Hi AK,

I agree, did not do much research, actually I wanted to go to good mechanic who understands bike better than me, and read some good reviews about Amjad in Pune, so kind of trusted his advise.

Changed the following:
Clutch Plate
Pressure Plate
Clutch Cable
Gear Shaft
Engine oil (based on Amjad's advise used Petronas)

Before this was using Motul 7000 10W50, and I change it at around 6k.

**AK3D** · 01-14-2016, 04:17 PM

Re: Gear shift problem

Originally posted by yvthakar View Post

Hi AK,

I agree, did not do much research, actually I wanted to go to good mechanic who understands bike better than me, and read some good reviews about Amjad in Pune, so kind of trusted his advise.

Changed the following:
Clutch Plate
Pressure Plate
Clutch Cable
Gear Shaft
Engine oil (based on Amjad's advise used Petronas)

Before this was using Motul 7000 10W50, and I change it at around 6k.

Why did you use a 10W50 FS oil on a bike where you should use either a 10w30 (as per company) or a 10w40 mineral oil? Using a Motul 7000 (a fully synthetic oil) - No, it won't damage the engine, but hard gear changes etc are something I suspect given the change interval of 6K kms, also the engine harshness will definitely increase. I would suggest you try the SHell Rimula R4 15W40 oil or the Shell Advance AX7. Both have given excellent performance with the ZMA/ZMR. The Rimula R4 is an HDEO and it's up to you to use it or not, but you can definitely try the AX7 10W40 and see how your bike behaves WRT gear shifts. Keep in mind the drain interval will go down to 2K kms max.

**yvthakar** · 01-14-2016, 05:44 PM

Re: Gear shift problem

Originally posted by AK3D View Post

Why did you use a 10W50 FS oil on a bike where you should use either a 10w30 (as per company) or a 10w40 mineral oil? Using a Motul 7000 (a fully synthetic oil) - No, it won't damage the engine, but hard gear changes etc are something I suspect given the change interval of 6K kms, also the engine harshness will definitely increase. I would suggest you try the SHell Rimula R4 15W40 oil or the Shell Advance AX7. Both have given excellent performance with the ZMA/ZMR. The Rimula R4 is an HDEO and it's up to you to use it or not, but you can definitely try the AX7 10W40 and see how your bike behaves WRT gear shifts. Keep in mind the drain interval will go down to 2K kms max.

In fact, I wanted to try Shell only, but went ahead with the suggestion from Amzad to use Petronas. Do you think it will be good idea to try and change the oil (considering it's just one week old).

**AK3D** · 01-14-2016, 06:07 PM

Re: Gear shift problem

Originally posted by yvthakar View Post

In fact, I wanted to try Shell only, but went ahead with the suggestion from Amzad to use Petronas. Do you think it will be good idea to try and change the oil (considering it's just one week old).

It would be a waste of money but if it's a 10W50 grade oil, then I would advise changing it. Alternatively you could drain and store it or give it away to someone whose bike uses 10W50 grade (pulsars).

**Lakkakula Ravi Kiran** · 01-15-2016, 01:54 AM

Re: over heated karizma r bike causing a lot of problems !!

Originally posted by Lakkakula Ravi Kiran View Post

hi guys. finally i got the reason for my issue . i managed to get in touch with a famous karizma mechanic and he took a ride on my bike with me on back and immideatly found the metallic sound coming out during rising in low rpms. After the ride he asked me about the petrol i used and i confirmed it is standard petrol .so he told me it a problem coming from the connecting rod and the bushes . he told me generally when the engine when gets hots there is a general metal expansion through out the engine and same is case within the crank so dude to this irregular movement of the crank connecting rod the piston is making this sound and there will be almost no pick up.... he told me he must remove the full engine and check the within and confirm . an estimate of 5k is told by him including his service charges....

will update soon with the pictures ..... thanks guys ...

hi brother, with respect to my last posts , iam posting this one after getting my engine totally removed and getting all the parts replaced. the cost went up to 11k including the mechanics 1k charge..(not as expected 5k

)... when he removed the engine he showed me the side play of my connecting rod and he was shocked seeing the play and told this is the reason why i was experiencing the metallic (tak tak TAK..) sound while engine was hot .. due to this he also told the piston and bore got spoiled .

In total he inspected the engine and told me change the parts :

1. rocker arms
2. camshaft
3. self-start carbons
4. bore kit
5.valves
6.connecting rod (8 size ) with bearings
7. all the rest like seals,gaskets,cables etc...
8.oils-castrol power 1+motul 300v

total came down to some 10k and he took 1k making it total of 11k ...

my experience after all the work ....

After he fitted the engine with new bore kit and new components and finally when the bike was ready . he fitted the plastics and told me to have a ride...when i sat on the bike and prayed to god and started driving the bike and to my shock guys i was simply spell bound .... the bike sound was beautifullllll....

(original showroom sound clikc clikc...) and immediately i revved the bike on 2nd and 3rd gear the pick up was immaculate ...

after the ride i felt a lil bit hard on the gear side and asked him. he told me it will take a bit of time to get eased since he told me he added new clutch rings... but over all i was simply happy... still let me drive some more kms and maybe a small trip nearby (100-150 kms) would really prove the statement of the bike condition ... after this mechanic told me ride with castrol power 1 for a 700 km after that use 300v for 5k kms ...

here are few photos of bike during the engine removal

i will update my my experience of engine after my first 100-200 kms ride ...

any comments guys ...

**RohIIT** · 01-15-2016, 11:22 AM

Re: over heated karizma r bike causing a lot of problems !!

Originally posted by Lakkakula Ravi Kiran;1200140[FONT=lucida console

i will update my my experience of engine after my first 100-200 kms ride ...

any comments guys ...[/FONT]

Why are you using a full synthetic oil during run in ? Refrain from doing so.
Use Mineral oil during run in , as it is coarse and gives optimum sealing between rings and bore.
This is due to mineral oil acting as a coolant and lubricant while rings and bore are grinded in run in.
So FS might not give ample sealing effect between rings and bore.

**Lakkakula Ravi Kiran** · 01-23-2016, 01:03 AM

Re: over heated karizma r bike causing a lot of problems !!

Originally posted by RohIIT View Post

Why are you using a full synthetic oil during run in ? Refrain from doing so.
Use Mineral oil during run in , as it is coarse and gives optimum sealing between rings and bore.
This is due to mineral oil acting as a coolant and lubricant while rings and bore are grinded in run in.
So FS might not give ample sealing effect between rings and bore.

yes brother ... after all the repairs done to my bike still the strange sound of metallic knocking is still coming ... i really am confused because all my engine is new bore nad piston rockers arms camshaft... some say its because of lean air fuel mixture please guys help me. also my gears get damn hard after a 5k run.. and gear are like stone hard.. help me bros

**AK3D** · 01-24-2016, 01:04 AM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Happy Birthday [MENTION=32286]psr[/MENTION] ji . Wish you all the best Anna, you've brought a lot to this forum and have given freely of your time and knowledge. Least we can do is wish you well.

**ajextreme** · 01-24-2016, 11:52 AM

Re: over heated karizma r bike causing a lot of problems !!

Originally posted by Lakkakula Ravi Kiran View Post

yes brother ... after all the repairs done to my bike still the strange sound of metallic knocking is still coming ... i really am confused because all my engine is new bore nad piston rockers arms camshaft... some say its because of lean air fuel mixture please guys help me. also my gears get damn hard after a 5k run.. and gear are like stone hard.. help me bros

Ideally you should not be getting any knocking sound after getting the engine work done. The only metallic noise should be from tappets as it will be kept a little loose until run in. As far as I can see from your previous posts the issue is related to Crank shaft but you have ended up replacing everything except that. Go back to the same mechanic and ask him to rectify the issue. Even after identifying the issue I don't think he has done anything to fix the crank issue. I am sure its not due to lean air fuel mixture. If the bike is running lean you might face jerking issues and not knocking ones.
For hard gears, check your clutch play.

**ankit.traveller** · 01-24-2016, 02:11 PM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Hi people. 2 months back I replaced my front brake pads with new one at ASC along with new brake oil.Since then I have ridden almost 700kms and Since second day of pad change my front wheel is not moving freely.There is good resistance I am feeling when trying to rotate wheel by hand, its like between total jammed and free rotation.

Yesterday I reported this at ASC, first they opened up caliper, cleaned both piston little bit with brake oil and then bleeded little bit oil then put back.But it did not solved problem.

Now they are saying brake pad will take some more hundred kms run to rub and set, and free wheel rotation will automatically come, till then I have to live with it.

Note: Prior to pad change I ridden almost 1500 kms with worn out pad with squeaking sound. Is my disc rotor damadged due to this and that is why new brake pads are sticking to old disc?

----consecutive posts auto-merged-----

HAPPY BIRTHDAY Mr PSR Sir ji.

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