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**digislayer** · 12-11-2008, 06:34 PM

Originally posted by Joel View Post

Nope. Oil level is at ground floor and the filter is sitting in 2nd floor.

. Oil comes up courtesy a pump. Oil is filtered and sent to the other parts of the engine like the GB, Head, clutch.
if you view your engine from the side, only about 1.5 inch from the lowest part of the engine will oil remain.
U wont believe while replacing clutch plates on my bikes, I dont drain the engine oil. Tilt the bike by 2 inches to the side and its done. You can remove the engine cover. SAme on the magneto side as well.
Heck even the cylinder head/bore is removed with the same oil underneath. U only need to change oil when needed else just top-up.
Some tips in tuning

Well Joel, I have a few questions regarding the tappet clearances

Firstly, I think inlet is 0.10mm and outlet is 0.20mm or vice versa. But both are not the same.

Secondly, what are the effects of a bad tappet clearance? Other than the change in sound i mean..and how can one make out the difference in sound when it's caused by tappets?

What do you mean by tighter tappet clearance? Does it mean"lesser than" the specified gap?

Asking all these because my bike has got really bad vibes. You know how disturbing it is to have vibrations on an R15... It all started when I accelerated hard till redline for the first time immediately after the first service. The sound seemed to have changed then, and the vibrations started developing slowly.

I got the tappets adjusted once at 3200kms (because I ride really hard and thought that could be the cause of vibrations on my bike). But I'm not sure as to whether the mechanic's done it properly or not. I still have lots of vibrations on my bike when compared to other R15s which've done 6000 kms! And my bike's still at 3,600kms.

What other causes do you think would've caused those vibrations if not the tappets? Please help me man, you're my only hope!

**archibaby** · 12-11-2008, 07:56 PM

so who else is coming tomo .. it would help if we could get a real problem bike like digislayer's . Only then could we understand if they are doing anything while servicing the vehicle. Otherwise I'll just have to complain about rust, paint, parts availability, chain noise and come back. Opportunity lost.

.:. Archi

**Joel** · 12-11-2008, 07:59 PM

10In and 20EX will make it too loud. Also not needed. It will create all the unwanted rattling.
Ideally, u can keep 0.08IN and 0.10Ext, but its safer with 0.10 for both from what I've seen.
A tigher clearance(low tappet clearance) is never good. Remeber that due to heat the valves and all metal moving parts are prone to expansion due to heat. Hence u need to maintain the right clearances.
Also note that, I'm quoting the clearances based on my experience. Not on what the hopeless service manuals quote.

**digislayer** · 12-11-2008, 09:21 PM

Originally posted by Joel View Post

10In and 20EX will make it too loud. Also not needed. It will create all the unwanted rattling.
Ideally, u can keep 0.08IN and 0.10Ext, but its safer with 0.10 for both from what I've seen.
A tigher clearance(low tappet clearance) is never good. Remeber that due to heat the valves and all metal moving parts are prone to expansion due to heat. Hence u need to maintain the right clearances.
Also note that, I'm quoting the clearances based on my experience. Not on what the hopeless service manuals quote.

Okay I now understand what tight clearance is. So the vibrations on my bike could actually be because of the 0.20ex?? The manual says what I quoted, but i know your racing and tuning experience, so will trust you

Can you please elaborate on how the performance, vibrations get affected if:

1) The inlet is too tight/too loose?

2)The outlet is too tight or too loose?

And if the combination (if input should be tight and ex should be loose or vice versa) for BEST performance and acceleration, best mileage..?? Thanks in advance

**Joel** · 12-11-2008, 09:44 PM

Higher clearance is better for fuel efficiency. Lower clearance is for performance. However u need to get the right clearance set. Normally the right clearance is always lower than what the factory manuals say. Coz thats for a balance of both.
Always the exhaust valve needs to have the most accurate clearance as the exhaust valve is prone is metal expansion due to heat from exhaust gases and operation. Inlet can operate somehow.
I've explained about the issues of tigher and higher clearance in my previous post on page 155.

**Racing Hart** · 12-12-2008, 12:41 AM

joel can the clearance u mentioned for R15 be used for RTR Fi too..?U had suggested inlet clearance of 0.08mmfor RTR..Would it make things better or worse..?

**Sarvajit** · 12-12-2008, 01:04 AM

There you go-mention another bike's name&the Mods are gonna raid this thread again!

**synergizer** · 12-12-2008, 03:52 AM

Hey guys..i think the radiator fan is not working for my bike.. is there anything I can do to fix it...

**harshaguduru** · 12-12-2008, 07:41 AM

Originally posted by Racing Hart View Post

joel can the clearance u mentioned for R15 be used for RTR Fi too..?U had suggested inlet clearance of 0.08mmfor RTR..Would it make things better or worse..?

^^please Pm him with such questions....understand the mods problems too..

@lohit what happened?

**digislayer** · 12-12-2008, 07:49 AM

Originally posted by Joel View Post

Higher clearance is better for fuel efficiency. Lower clearance is for performance. However u need to get the right clearance set. Normally the right clearance is always lower than what the factory manuals say. Coz thats for a balance of both.
Always the exhaust valve needs to have the most accurate clearance as the exhaust valve is prone is metal expansion due to heat from exhaust gases and operation. Inlet can operate somehow.
I've explained about the issues of tigher and higher clearance in my previous post on page 155.

Well, you got me confused here Joel. You say tighter clearance is for performance here, but in your post on Pg155,:

"
A tighter valve clearance means,
Low compression. Leads to poor performance.
Low mileage
Poor throttle response, not free revving.
Cold start issues.
Damaged valves.
Damages cam and tappet screws.
"

**Sarvajit** · 12-12-2008, 12:00 PM

Originally posted by synergizer View Post

Hey guys..i think the radiator fan is not working for my bike.. is there anything I can do to fix it...

I've never seen/heard mine work too-is it bcoz my riding conditions don't necessitate it? I drive around 15kms.to office at 6a.m.&15 kms.back home at around 3p.m., both times with minimum traffic.

**Sarvajit** · 12-12-2008, 12:20 PM

Originally posted by mithun.08 View Post

All the mentioned above are available in Bangalore in Perfect Riders.. Shridhar got Billet levers and some other things on last saturday..

Thanks @Mithun,
I called up Perfect Riders&they seem to have most of the above. I'll try to pick it up tomorrow, since I'm visiting Bangalore.

@Archi: Too bad I'm coming to Bangalore a day late, else I would have loved to join you at Panache, coz I'll be staying close to IndiraNagar. Was at B'lore most of last year in the same place too.

**ketan_r15** · 12-12-2008, 12:57 PM

Originally posted by ketan_r15 View Post

Hey guys, I hav been asking this query for long time but never got any satisfactory answer,

and for sometimes when i got the answers, i wasnt able to find that particular product in the market.

Today I had gone to the service station with my friend for his R15's first service.

I enquired there regarding the bulbs that one can use for R15. The service center guy is very helpful and he suggested us to buy any bulb but make sure it is of the order 12v 35/35W. I told him that i know a few guys who have already put bulbs, white light bulbs of higher configuration that is 12v 55/60W etc. He had no answer for this but he simply said that I recommend to use 35/35W bulbs for problem free performance or else there are chances of battery drainage etc.

I m quite happy with the stock bulbs but i wanted either a white light bulb or the one which comes with P200, yellowish white tinged light.

Pulsar 200 bulbs are anytime comfortable with R15 as they r of the same configuration as 12v 35/35W. And can even get them easily.

But my friend bought a different pair of bulbs. Halonix 12v 35/35W. I dont think they are proper white light bulbs but blue light bulbs instead.

I m attaching a few pics here.

1) These r the pics of the stock bulbs used in R15. I asked the SS guy to show me the bulb as to know wht sort of bulb it is. I mean the end portion, fitting area.

2) And here r the pics of bulb which my friend bought.

3) The carten of the bulbs.

4) He also bought a pair of LEDs for parking lights.

So what i want to ask is,
1) has anyone fitted halonix bulbs to their R15s?

2) How bout the company? Is it reliable?

3) are these bulbs good to go?

Also the stock bulbs are of the brand Osram.
So shall we look for something from Osram's offering? But Osram bulbs are hard to find in our area.

I am very confused whether to go for these halonix bulbs or the P200's bulbs.

Please shed some light on these bulbs upon seeing the images.

And what bout the light? Will they emmit white light or blue one?

Is it powerful enough on highways where there's no light at all because i m a frequent tourer.

Also go thru my latest post in the Tourer's section.

Weekend Ride To ambey valley and talegaon on R15s - xBhp.com : The Global Indian Biking Community

http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/5980-weekend-ride-ambey-valley-talegaon-r15s.html

Motorcycle travelogues by thousands of xBhpians from across the world.

Thanking u in advance.

Please comment as early possible as we r planning to get them fitted by tomorrow or day after tomorrow.

No one interested to answer..?????

Well anywez..thanx for the co operation...

@ aparajit

Thanx for ur input..I knew bout Osram nightbreaker but r u sure using 55/60W bulbs wont cause any harm to battery? Because this is the only reason I m waiting yet, otherwise i m getting good quality Philips white light bulbs 55/60W.
Though as u had written in ur posts that u r using 55/60 bulbs n hav no probs yet shows they r problem free.

Thanx anywwez..

**darkknight** · 12-12-2008, 01:10 PM

@Ketan :Ok here's what I have experienced so far...

Went to a advanced accesssories store and they had that philps 60/55 w white bulb 4300k H4 (600 rs. including 2 aux bulbs) but after consulting a few mechanics in panvel they advised against it (dunno y

maybe not their forte)
P.S. navnish has installed 1 of these for LHS

Then enquired elsewhere and all they had were "halonix" & "Design" 140 rs. approx. each but again they said need to check the socket and probably trying tomorrow.

1 more input i received was more the wattage less the illumination (dunno if its literally true) so this guy advised to go for 25 w bulb for more illumination

So all in all m in the same boat as you and still searching.Hopefully will find soon.man m more worried abt screwing the electrical & battery rather than anything else.

**navnish** · 12-12-2008, 01:31 PM

Originally posted by ketan_r15 View Post

No one interested to answer..?????

Well anywez..thanx for the co operation...

@ aparajit

Thanx for ur input..I knew bout Osram nightbreaker but r u sure using 55/60W bulbs wont cause any harm to battery? Because this is the only reason I m waiting yet, otherwise i m getting good quality Philips white light bulbs 55/60W.
Though as u had written in ur posts that u r using 55/60 bulbs n hav no probs yet shows they r problem free.

Thanx anywwez..

The halonix blue one is good am using it and its white and works well... its better than the stock osaram one.Was using the halonix bulb on my pulsar and I feel its good quality and reliable.

Regarding the 55/60 osaram nightbreakers . Santoosh is using 2 on his bike may be he will comment on this . but have not heard any issues from him regarding battery drain....

I dont think so there will be any issue using the philips 55/60 diamond vision / crystal vision bulbs.

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