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@sveetvenom: Please post in proper english and not in SMS (text) language. This is not the way to post in a forum.

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Thanks.

I had given my bike to "Perfect Riders" for fixing up the exhaust. The exhaust/silencer is now in better shape. Had to shell out Rs 500. But the rear-end (tail) still doesnt seem aligned.

Planning to attend the trackday this sunday. Hope to see you guys and get some expert opinion on the rear alignment issue

Engine Oil, Chain lube, Air Filter query

@All: I have 4 queries:
1. As we all know, Yamaha is using Yamalube 4 Stroke engine oil (20W40 type SG) for R15. What does the SG mean? Is this a synthetic or semi or mineral oil?
2. Of these, which is the best Chain De-Greaser+Lube-Motul or Yamalube?
I have read about someone saying that Motul was not good. Yamalube is better. SS guys here are using neither of them. Which one do you suggest me?
3. Has anyone changed the air filter to K&N or something else? What are the changes noted?
4. Better headlamps: Since I'm not interested in HIDs, are there any brighter headlamp bulbs with the same ratings available in the market? Please give me reviews if anyone using it.

Thanks in advance,
Sarvajit.

Hi,
You don't need to go to the insurance company. Just follow the following procedure -

Visit the following website -

From the Home Page - http://www.bajajallianz.com/BagicNxt/

Click on the "Live Online Chat" and give them your policy no. They will give you all the details. Also ask them for a Username and Password, so that in future, you can just login to their site and take a print of your policy anytime. You can also renew the policy online Welcome to Bajaj Allianz

You can also download the claim form from the home page, for any insurance claim.

Hope this will help you, and sorry to hear about your bike. Ride safe.

1) Nothing to do with synthetic or semi etc. Its actualy the "Oil Classification Structure". Read THIS. Read the "API Service Classes". You'll get the idea. Ok.. I'll just copy and paste it.

The API service classes[4] have two general classifications: S for "service" (originating from spark ignition) (typical passenger cars and light trucks using gasoline engines), and C for "commercial" (originating from compression ignition) (typical diesel equipment).
Note that the API oil classification structure has eliminated specific support for wet-clutch motorcycle applications in their descriptors, and API SJ and newer oils are referred to be specific to automobile and light truck use. Accordingly, motorcycle oils are subject to their own unique standards.
The latest API service standard designation is SM for gasoline automobile and light-truck engines. The SM standard refers to a group of laboratory and engine tests, including the latest series for control of high-temperature deposits. Current API service categories include SM, SL and SJ for gasoline engines. All previous service designations are obsolete, although motorcycle oils commonly still use the SF/SG standard. The obsolete SH standard was the last standard to contain the integral zinc and phosphorus (ZDDP) levels needed for proper lubrication of approx. pre-1990 cars. Oils with higher ZDDP levels are still available from some manufactures, although much information is proprietary.
There are seven diesel engine service designations which are current: CJ-4, CI-4 Plus, CI-4, CH-4, CG-4, CF-2, and CF. All others are obsolete.
It is possible for an oil to conform to both the gasoline and diesel standards. Engine oil which has been tested and meets the API standards may display the API starburst symbol with the service designation on containers sold to oil users.


SOURCE: WIKIPEDIA



2) I have been using Motul clean and lube and didnt have any troubles. In my run of 1650 kms, I had to lube my chain only once excluding the 1st service. Havnt used Yamalube so cannot comment on it.
One thing I do with the chain is, I apply grease on the front side, by opening the small left side panel in the front (i do not know what its called). It helps!

3) Using K&N will give a little bump on acceleration but in the long run the engine is screwed. There was a guy who installed K&N for more sound and later when he thought of removing it, the engine sound remained same and the engine was too rough. Theres another thread on K&N+R15, you can read that for more info. In short, not recommended. I remember a guy who tried foam filters, but you'l have to search this thread who was it.

4)Using any other 35w bulb wont give you drastic change in the light intensity.

Hope this helps.

Hey R15Rocks, u can probably try out with 2 55/60W headlamps. But ur reflectors will get screwed in the longer run! K&N is not recommended as it will mean that u have to change the AFR ratio re-adjusted.

@Vibhanshu&Aparajith: Thanks for the inputs. I will not install K&N or any headlamps of higher wattage rating.
1. Anyone else who can answer my question whether the Yamalube engine oil is synthetic or mineral?
2. Anyone using 'white' lights or any other lights instead of the factory yellow ones with the same 35W rating?
3. Anyone who has used Yamalube or Motul please compare the two.

Thanks.

1. AFAIK Yamalube is a mineral oil as told by the SS guy.
2. Used the 35Watt white bulbs, I believe they were of 4300K rating. Changed them the very next day as felt the visibilty has reduced.
3. Used castrol Power 1 once and felt the engine to bbe much smoother and responsive than Yamalube.

Amit

R15 championship

Guys, seems R15 chamionships are up again... Got a call from Orion motors.. race is scheduled on March 8th.

Yamalube is mineral. Am now using MOTUL 300v 15W50 fully synth oil. The bike is just amazing. Too smooth. clutch feels like hot knife thru butter. Excellent gear shifts. No vibes even at the red line. Too good. The bike just purrs

P.S: I know the manual specifies W40, but I checked V-Ixion manual online and it specifies W40/W50. So using it.

Thanks All,
I have decided not to change:
1. Air Filter: Don't want the engine to turn rough.
2. Yamalube to synthetic engine oil: Service interval is too short-I don't wanna be draining the synthetic oil every 70days! I think I'll wait for the free services to get over.
3. Headlamps: Will stick to the stock ones. Don't wanna melt the reflectors. Going by experiences of those who have used similar wattage with white light, I understand that stock yellow actually gives a better spread.
4. NGK Iridium Spark Plug: Potponed to 12K service.

However, I will be buying Chain De-Greaser+Lube. Now my question is: Yamalube or Motul?
I understand that Yamalube(Dry type) is whitish&Motul needs to be completely removed before applying Yamalube, so I would like to use one product consistently.
Please give me your inputs regarding lube+degreaser brands.

is there any idea tht a roller protector can be fitted in R15 ??
i think its a must thing

Sarvajit, Yamalube is mineral oil. for more info on the engine oil specs pls go through the Engine Oils thread.

Headlight, may be you can upgrade one of your headlamps to 55/60 Nightbreaker. My last trip was a complete night ride - 11 PM to 6 AM and I had a night breaker and a silver star installed (both 55/60 W). For more than half the journey I used only one headlight (in low beam) following an Innova or the Hayabusa that was along with me... Highbeam was used occassionally when needed and at 4 AM I switched on the high beam for a continuous run and in 30 mins the battery got drained. At that time due to fog even my speeds came down to 60-70 KMPH and the battery couldn't charge up well enough to support two 60W bubs. I switched back to low beam and followed a qualis who had yellow fog lamps installed and I was followed by a volvo with yellow fog lamps again

forget about a K&N and call me when u are going towards Ranigunj... I'll let u know where to get OKS.. if u decide to buy that.

Thanks KP. As mentioned above, I have decided to cancel changing the headlamps.
As for the OKS, I was considering the white Yamalube spray...Yet to get any inputs on its price&quality though!

Good... but where would you buy the Yamalube chain spray???