I have used Motul 15w50 fully syn. It kind of lessens the throttle response. This happens to all bikes with this grade. I would suggest to go for CASTROL power one racing 10w30 grade. it costs close to 900-950 bucks but is worth every penny. It does not have a good lasting period like Motul 15w50. But the throttle response is amazing. If you want performance give no second thought to castrol power1 racing. Only trying once can make you believe what am saying. With it, you can give a tough run to p220dtsi too.

@rhythmrana, bro I tried my friend's r15 which is fitted with the same p220 tire that you have, it did not accelerate anywhere as quickly as my stock bike does. The kinda of pull I get from my stock from 4k is equivalent to that bike at 6k, I did not try any high speed runs on a borrowed bike. The mileage reported by him had dropped by about 5kmpl, but he barely uses the bike so it's not an issue for him.

Now the worst part, it did not feel at all stable while leaning, the bike kept slipping away and I marginally avoided a lowside twice after which I stopped leaning on it. I can take a particular corner at about 80 exit speed on my stock and I was not exceeding 60-65 even when i was trying to lean coz the tire was not inspiring confidence.

My verdict on this tire is, leave it for the p220, STAY AWAY from it if you want to lean.


Although I have to agree that it looks quite fat and does not wears off that quickly, we do burnouts on it all the time

Thanks for the post
will see for that, lets see what others say i need more suggestions

WOW, tell that to my R15. It has Rx 100 stand since past 2 years, works absolutely fine and i have matched it with R15 stand which has almost zero difference. The Jugaad actually helped me save more than Rs 700. BTW, my bike is nearing 60K on ODO, so i travel a lot with zero issues from that stand.

Was the RX100 stand a direct fit or was some jugad used for the same?

Hmm, as far sa I've seen, the rx stand has a plain bottom end at both its legs, the r15 stand is curved a little which aids a LOT in the application of the stand, this might not be an issue for one who is strong enough to put the bike on the rx stand, but I was not able to do so. Guess it's time to start gyming

Also, there is no metal bar protruding out of the left leg of the rx stand. Where do you apply pressure when you put the bike on the stand? Did you get another metal bar welded onto the rx stand?

I assume you had to get the bracket that holds the spring welded onto the right side of the rx stand. Am I right?

Just got the 7th (and 1st paid) service (Rs 325) done (Pearl Yamaha, Hyd). I had enquired about Motul 5100 semi-synth, but the svc guys had no clue, and advised for the usual Yamaha-lube semi-synth, which I agreed to. I dont think these guys will let me bring my own engine oil. So do you guys change engine oil at a local shop?

The coolant was replaced (Motul, Rs 150).

The bike has covered 7700kms in 15 months, and the mechanic said that it would need a change of brake pads for the rear brake. He did add that I could change them once the brakes started squealing Do brake pads wear out even under 10k kms? I know it must depend on the regular riding conditions, but I have an easy riding style.

I've been having a terrible time with the bike tires, both front and rear, for the past month, with tire pressure falling by half (mileage fell by 10%). I was refilling every two days. The local puncture guys couldn't detect a puncture, and I was clueless. The svc guy said they would look into it (I didn't know they check for air leaks as well), and the front tire was fixed (haven't checked it properly yet), while the rear has a puncture, the guy said. He in fact advised me to repair the puncture at the MRF showroom, instead of the local puncture guys, as the latter make large holes in the tires while fixing the punctures. I didn't know that the MRF showrooms even look into tire punctures! Will check this weekend.

The bike still has the awesomeness in its smoothness!

i dont think changing oil from local shop is a prob as long as u watch them closely.. locals may not use right tools which can cause the bolt to wear...so try to change oil by yourself if possible!!

'm changing ma brake pads every 6k kms.. so its not at all a prob

tyre prob: as they said u can check the leakage at mrf showroom.. mostly they do have service option in every showroom( not sure)....mostly if no pucture is there leak is from sides because u may have roded with underinflation... refitting usually solves that problem

DONT EVER GIVE TO LOCAL SHOP TO PLAY WITH TUBELESS TYRE... i.e removing tyre and refitting , your rim will suffer.. patching may not be a prob

I change my engine oil myself, and i guess most owners who rides frequently does the same. it is not a big deal if you have the right tools at hand. if you are not the "ready to get dirty" type, a local mech with some basic knowledge about r15 can help you out.

and brake pad change at 7700kms! that is too soon for the rear brake pads to be worn. i ride frequently and my odo shows 13600kms as of today. i'm still on my original brake pads. i inspected my front brake pad at 13000 and it still had atleast 1000km life left on it. rear looked like it'll last more than 18000kms!

your only relief is that brake pads doesnt cost as much as it did an year ago.

and about the air leaking issue, try nitrogen. i am extremely satisfied with it. only 2 psi variation even after a month without checking!

try mobil 1 racing 4t 10w40 full synth(850rs). 10w30 seems too low a viscosity. i've used motul 300v 15w50 and this mobil 1 seems to be better than motul. i've covered 3600kms on mobil 1 as of now. still smooth at high revs. gearshift quality have degraded though.

Thanks. The svc guy quoted a figure under 1k for the brake pads, I remember. Will ride another month and see.

Will try nitrogen. I think a tire-pressure gauge is a must to own with tubeless tires.

Yes, have had a bad experience with changing tires (big crack in rear tire once, replaced under warranty) by a local mech. The guy banged the poor rim with his foot, fitting the tire on, while I watched helplessly

I had a similar problem around 2 weeks back, the rear tyre had been leaking air from the rim edge for around 6 weeks, when I changed the tyre the MRF dealer claimed he had no facility to change bike tyres, he sent me to a local clown, who firstly put the tyres on the wrong way round and scratched the rims aswell. I took the bike to a guy local to me, he said i have 2 options, 1 add a tube (which i am against) or 2 ask the svc to repair (not sure if they would try anyway) so with a little gentle persuasion I got him to try, i didn't realise that he was fully kitted out and has a nitrogen generator etc. so off came the back wheel, and some gentle pressure on the rim edge, we refitted the rim, tested the tyre all seemed good so off i went. Checked the pressure after 4 days and no issues, i also checked today which is 10 days later and still holding up, I had covered around 300km in the 10 days. So these minor issues can be repaired quite simply, no need to replace the rim or go back in time and fit a tube.

Hope this helps.

skilled workers are hard to find!! atleast you got your job done!!

I used 91-octane fuel for my bike for the past 800-odd kms (total odometer reading = 2.6k). I recently noticed that the user's manual recommends only regular fuel! Is it ok to use high octane?
Or should I revert to normal fuel? In that case would the engine have been affected by using high octane?

i am disappointed with my r15 after today's events
here's what happened
i was on an empty highway and tried a top speed run
my bike is 950 kms old and i let go of the restrictions...







i took the bike upto 8500 in 4th and updhifted
then in 5th at WOT the RPS went down (how is this even possible) to 7500 and it reached around 100 kmph
and then in 6th at WOT it again went down to 6500 and refused to go up and spd decreased to around 97kmph
what is the reason i fail to understand.........
plz help