make sure you check few things before you go for drag:

1. most importantly brakes.
2. tyre pressure.
3. chain lubed and adjusted(if needed)
4. most importantly your riding gears (helmet, jackets, gloves, boot, knee guards)

All the Best, keep your headlights ON while dragging, choose an isolated place where there is no traffic.

Best of luck for the race.
Please beat the shit out of those bikes .
Inform us about the results and if possible a video would be great.

Helen's leaking coolant now, one issue after another cropping up, that too right before my trip. The quantity of the leak is minimal, but it is definitely there. 4-5 drops are on the ground every morning, I noticed the leak 2 days ago but ignored it as it was just 3-4 drops, but since it has been continuing for 3 days, I will have to get that checked out

Or maybe check it out myself

what is the price of rear cowl RED?

It was 2000 bucks 1 yr back and I guess its available at same price now as well.

Guys completed work on 2 more LED tail light for friends.. give your feedback




Also, I'm facing some issue with my rear tyre.. My rear tyre locks very quickly and I've had a fall also due to that, I tried a friend's bike today and I felt no tyre locking in his case. My ride is 10k old and tyre still have good amount of tread, Why is my tyre locking?

even i face a similar issue, the tyre happily skids on even good tarmac..sometimes i come to know that it is skidding only when i start fishtailing!!it skids that smoothly! and its not like I apply too much pressure on the lever either..
recently, when i braked hard, even the front tyre skidded!! I was scared to death!!this too happened on a well maintained tarred road..
what could it be??
done ~8k till now..

edit: those look nice! how much did you invest in each set?

Check your break pads and the state of break oil in the oil reservoir... contrary to the belief that most people have, break pads do have a shelf life... due to exposure to elements i.e. heat, water, etc., the break pads tend to harden, thereby loosing that sharp bite and feel. Thats one of the reasons why it is recommended that break pads be changed once every 18 to 24 months, irrespective of how much they have worn out...

Also check the colour of break oil in the break oil reservoir... if it is yellow or brown in colour the have the break oil flushed and replaced with fresh break oil from a fresh container of break oil. Yellow or brown colour means that the oil has absorbed moisture and now has effectively a lower boiling point.

@above 3 posts

It is indeed a strange thing to happen. I had more than 2 yrs of exp with R15 and tested it across all sorts of conditions but the tires never betrayed me. Forget about locking, it did not even skid under good road conditions. Treads do play a role in good grip but locking is something to be worked out on brakes. Under extreme hard braking, the rear tire skids but it should not get locked up.

Brake oil can be checked but over 2 yrs of riding, I had changed my brake fluid once and that to when it underwent leakage. The longevity of brake fluid is really good. Its with the brakes for sure. Please check the brake pad quality and contact an expert in service center. Better take an appointment with Yamaha engineer. He can only help. Do tell me if nothing happens. I would contact the Yamaha India officer on your behalf. This is something really serious. HOPE IT GETS SORTED OUT VERY SOON.

^^^ couple of misconceptions:

First: "threads do play a role" - not entirely accurate... these are not threads, they are water channels... road tires are entirely dependent on the quality of rubber and the contact patch created for grip. The water channels are there to prevent hydroplaning where a layer of water prevents the tyre from maintaining full contact with the tarmac and creating grip issues. The water channels facilitate the removal of water and allowing a contact patch to be maintained. Those knobby tyres found on dirt bikes and ATVs are for loose dirt conditions...

Second: While it is recommended that break oil be replace every 24 months, it is also dependent on break usage and quality of oil... the harder you use the breaks and the more you push the breaks to their limits, the closer the break oil reaches its boiling point... when the break oil starts to cool down it absorbs moisture and that is what ages the oil... thus it is not necessary that oil will last 24 months...

Now coming to the locking part... the locking is due to the break system and has nothing to do with the tyre grip issues... one of the reasons (this is speculation and needs to be verified by inspection of your bike) why you are locking the breaks is because you are not getting any feed back from the break. This happens when the breaks feel woody or spongy... such conditions are generally created by contaminated oil or hardened break pads...

I have still a little of break pads left for rear.. but still I'll get them changed. btw what is Bleeding and how does it help? a friend of mine told me to get break pads bleeding and it'll get solved.

Bleeding is process whereby break oil is allowed to bleed from the break system till any air pockets or bubbles in the system are removed, thus creating optimum hydraulic pressure for the breaking system. However, note that bleeding is not the same as replacing the oil... I would strongly recommend that along with the break pads you replace the oil and have breaks bled accordingly.

How much is the cost of getting break oil changed?

the projectors you are using are legal?