Thanks for the post
i have one more query i.e what this 10w,15w,5w means?? do it mean lower the W's higher the performance?? and what this 10w40, 10w50 means?? 40-50? and one more thing till now i am using 15w-50 but semi-synthetic and if i shift to that agip 20w-50 fully synthetic will it harm the engine?? i mean am shifting from lower Ws to higher Ws so will it harm the engine?

This denotes GRADE of the engine oil. 10,20,30 denotes Viscocisty W deotes "winter" (not "weight") or cold-start viscosity, at lower temperature.
For example 10W40 is a multigrade engine oil. Modern engines use only multigrade engine oils. Do more research through google & in XBHP only. There is a dedicated thread for engine oil.

Can u please explain the above in bold. what is it and how to use it?

I have a problem with the tail lamp of my bike, electronic gurus provide help please.

In my r15, both the filaments of the tail light bulb light up even when the bike is just on and the parking lights are not on. Pressing the brake lever does not do anything to this, they just keep on glowing. I tried opening up and see if I could diagnose the issue, I took off the seat and opened up the leather casing in which the wiring of the tail bulbs is wrapped up, as far as I understood, there are 3 wires feeding electricity to 4 filaments of the bulb. 2 are positive and one negative. The negative wire is common to both the filaments while the electricity supply to the positive wires is regulated by the light switch.

Now when the bike is in the ON position but all lights are off, there should be no flow of electricity to either of the filaments. When parking lights are on, then only one filament should be lit up, and the other should be lit up when brakes are applied.

But in my bike it's like both filaments are lighting up, so I deduced that my headlight switch is busted so it's giving electricity to the parking filament of the bulb even when the parking light is off. Add to that the holder of my tail light has a cut in the wire, so the positive of the parking filament wire is touching the brake light wire and the brake light filament too is lighting up.

Now my question is, what do I do now?

Mostly, your front/back brake switch needs adjustment. The brake part of the light is staying ON all the time.

Also, get the cut repaired.

Hey why do you need to paint the seat cowl to red when there is red colour available in showroom.Here are the pics, i just bought these a week ago :::

Repair the cut wire, this would be your first port of call, this could be causing a grounding issue and maybe the reason for this anomaly. The light switch is probably not the issue, these issues are normaly damage on the wiring circuit. Try taping up the cut wire and see if it sorts out the problem. Otherwise take the bike to an auto electrician, they should be able to sort it out quite quickly.

If it's just the front/rear brake switch that's creating the issue then that would mean that it is being in pressed position all the time, which will cause this issue if there's is a defect/cut/leak in the holder which connects the wires of both the positives of the filaments.

So in conclusion, my rear/front brake switch is conked off and there's a leak in the holder which makes both the filament light up when only the braking filament should be lit up.

I opened up the holder to inspect it, but there is not visible cut in the wire. I think there is a leak in the holder but It is not visible i.e. it is not on the wire that connects the holder and the white bracket, I think the leak is somewhere inside the holder.

Hey anyone knows where to get a tank stripe like the one in yamaha r125

u can get it done at your local reflector/vinyl/number plate guy.

just make sure he uses a vinyl sticker.
and not an actual reflector sticker strip. (as it's virtually impossible to take off)

to avoid scratches... spray a couple coats of lacquer over it.

hey guys,am back...was busy with some exams and stuff....got ma bike fully stickered now!will post the pics of my Fiat Yamaha R15 pretty soon!Cheers!

Possibly, just misadjusted!

Nope, its totally fuc*ed, I saw that just now, the two wires that connect the two terminals of the switch came loose off the soldered terminals and were touching each other, hence the current which should be flowing only when I brake was flowing all the time. Took the brake switch and the holder of the wires + wires apart from the bike and will solder them back on and I'm good to go yay, DIY rocks


And a big credit of me being able to diagnose this issue goes to abhijeet and stefanm, without you guys I'd have thought that there is something really bad in my bike's wiring and probably would've gone to the svc, for a job which I can now do myself. Thank you guys




AN image of the problem:

Now the question in my mind is what if I mess up the polarity of the connection to be made? i.e. what if I solder the pink wire where the black wire should've been soldered and the black wire where the pink wire should've been soldered? The bulb will light up even then right? polarity doesn't matter when it comes to normal bulbs i think

Don't bother with that I figured it out myself, the switch is a switch between the two ports of only one wire that is either the positive or the negative wire, so it shouldn't matter at which terminal I solder which wire.

Anyways, thanks for the assistance

The R-15 will take both those bikes out provided you shift well. Especially since its a 1.5km stretch, you'll have the top-speed advantage.. Shift at 9,000 rpm for max boost! How well you launch

On a serious note, be very VERY careful when drag racing! Choose a deserted, well-surfaced road, and avoid night drags. Also, at least wear a good Helmet, jacket and jeans. Remember that during a drag race your bike builds up a lot of momentum and you won't be able to stop if something or someone suddenly gets in your way. Ride safe and show those friends the power of the 'R'