I did the cone-set lubrication(done by svc) at 7800kms otherwise it was coming loose every week



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Why do you want short levers?

The OEM cone-set is good enough for a minimum 10k Kms (I think the manual says the same too). Post that lubricating interval of 10k is sufficient.

I had got my bike's cone-set lubricated at 12k Kms. No issues yet at 22k Kms. Will get it re-lubricated towards year-end.

EDIT: I assume cone-set lubrication here is same as steering & steering-bearing lubrication.

Thanks Bro, will do that tomorrow

Wow I'm really relieved to hear that its common, thanks mate !!

You mean to say that the cone set was getting loose .

In my case the svc mech told me to get the cone set lubed at 8k when I had gone in for the 4th free service. He told me that the movement of the handle from left to right isn't smooth and that happens when the cone set needs adjustment. When he opened the cone set, he showed me a round thingy with metal ball bearings inside and told me that there should be grease in here and without it the cone set gets damaged. The application of said grease is the lubing that is refereed to in cone set lubrication.

I assume 8000 kms can be set as a fair benchmark for lubing the cone set? i.e. the cone set shall be lubed after every 8k kms. Would this be correct?


I use only 2 fingers on brake lever and want to use only 2 on the clutch too, but since the lever is so damn long the other 2 fingers get crushed when I use only 2. Hence the need for shorties.

OK I admit there's not much need, but I think short levers look cool on big bikes hence giving them a go on mine too

Add to that, short levers will be a reason to not give the bike's keys to others, I could say that my bike has different levers and you won't be able to ride properly. I find it hard to say no when some close friend asks to take a ride. It is very un-nerving when he takes a slightly longer time to return with your bike.

I lost the ownership manual, does it says 10k as the limit for cone set lubing? Well then I guess I'm good to go for another 4-5k kms, but I'd still appreciate a DIY on the topic as I'm looking forward on doing it myself.

I don't know for sure if cone set lubrication is the same as steering lubrication or steering bearing lubrication, but from what I recall from the last time I had it done to my bike, it does kinda sounds like they are the same thing with 3 different names. But don't quote me on that.

actually my cone-set was getting loose frequently say after 3-4Weeks and everytime I got it tightened by a different Mechanic and during the last time, the mechanic told me to grease it the next time I go for servicing and I just did that last Wednesday
Guess 8000kms should be the interval for greasing the Cone-Set



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Don't you have a copy of the R15 Service Manual that jd666 had shared here? You can look at that & do (almost) any damn job on the bike.

actually my cone-set was getting loose frequently say after 3-4Weeks and everytime I got it tightened by a different Mechanic and during the last time, the mechanic told me to grease it the next time I go for servicing and I just did that last Wednesday
Guess 8000kms should be the interval for greasing the Cone-Set



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can someone give me general measurements for making a Paddock stand from a fabricator..

I do, I did look it up on there, and it;s at page132-137 but with a DIY thread you get pictures as well as proper text on the dis-assembly and re-assembly, I got a bit confused with the service manual. Maybe it's due to the black and white images of the service manual

On a serious note, the text found on DIY threads is far more explanatory than that on the service manual. the service manual seems more intent on giving specific tightening torque figures than on proper guidelines of the work to be done.

@ prakritij, I still don't understand how the cone set would go loose. Did the bike ride funny when the cone set came loose?


Go to your usual svc and give the manager some money and borrow a stand for a night, take it to a local welder and get a duplicate made. JUst be really sure you wanna go this way as the welds that welders usually do are a lot weaker than those on a Yamaha paddock stand. If it breaks then your bike wall fall. If you're willing to risk it then you can go ahead.

Else you can take your welder to the svc and ask him to take measurements there itself.

IIRC, the manual says lubricate the steering stem bearings (i.e., cone set)&swingarm every 12K kms.

I have got the swingarm greased when I felt that the rear suspension was bottoming out, but never got the cone set greased yet in 22K kms.

Typical indications of a worn out cone set are:
1. Bike drifting from side to side even though air pressure is ok
2. Handle feels heavy

The looseness of the stem can be fixed by tightening the stem nut itself.
I am beginning to feel 1&2, so will get the coneset checked&lubed at the next service.

Just opened the front cowling of the bike... man i can say if doing it alone, it can be quite a job....

The bike was tipped over by some idiot while parked outside the house. Broke the cowling ( front headlight cowling ), Right side RVM.

For the un initiated. In addition to the tools in the tool kit, keep the following handy.

- Stubby screwdriver ( with a number 1 or 2 philips bit )
- A 8-10 inch screw driver ( the reversible kind with number 2 philips ).

The stubby is needed to open the headlight mounting screws below the speedometer, and the long one is needed to access the screw holding the headlight and front cowling together ( bang in the middle of the headlight ).

Also dont forget the routing and the clips on the sides holding the wires in place.

I removed the black and the white wire holders from the old cowling, and the double sided tape came off cleanly. Just used new industrial grade double sided tape and fitted it to the new cowling.

The current issue is that the headling stay ( where the Right side RVM is mounted ), is bent. So tomorrow morning ill try and straighten it, or get a new one and replace it fully.

All in all, 2 hours well spent!!!

The allen bolts holding the headlight stay are bigger than the allen keys provided in the tool kit. I need to get those bigger allen keys for myself as well, the stay is bent inwards in my case too but it isn't THAT bent so as to warrant a replacement.

Well You would've seen this already but "for the un-initiatied" the headlight itself is bolted onto the bike with 4 plastic tabs (brackets) and when the bike falls, many times these tabs break. When I opened my bike's headlight cowling, I found my headlight's 3 tabs broken. So I repaired them myself and since then I haven't had any problem with them.

I removed the headlight bolts too with the screwdriver that comes with the toolkit but JD sir is right, it is difficult opening the bolts with the toolkit screwdriver and one should try using a smaller screwdriver instead.

PS: I really liked the look of my bike without the fairing, if it had a bit more low end grunt, I might've considered making it a streetfighter, but she's not that good at lower revs so that rules out the streetfighter option.

Hi Guys,

Happy day for me. I am waiting for the delivery of my R15 now. Made the payment today. Will have to wait till next Sunday though to ride the baby

Guys whats the difference between the Yamalube and the Motul 5100SS ? And whats the average life of the chain sprocket and how can one make out if its worn ?