27-29 kmpl???
Buddy that's way too low even if you are running in the bike!


False neural troubled you all??
Really not able to believe on that. 2 of my flat mates have got R15 and i drive those a lot and i've encountered false neutral just once that too in initial few kms and never ever after that. Getting into neutral is just so damn easy in this bike!!!

That is still over priced man, ask them for the bill and scan their 'rate card' as well! Be nice and polite with the SVC guys, it helps!

1) False neutral on the new bike is ok, it will eventually fade out once you have finished your run in!
2) Engine braking is not really advised, JD and GP have already confused you enough about it... I do what JD does :P Stay calm till 100KMs, then a lil bit of engine braking... and then finally a lil bit of throttle variation beyond 700 KMs... theres no rule book for these but I end up doing so!
3) Key... best of luck! somewhere in this thread someone had written about it.. finding the key from the 4 digit number is a herculean task! try making a key locally or better still replace very lock (expensive affair)

Congrats on the new purchase! A very well made decision!
Sad to hear about the key, I also lost mine within a month or two of buying the bike.
I gave an application to Pearl Yamaha citing the key no.but was of no avail. Later I managed to meet the Area Sales Manager Mr.Satyanarayana, who applied for me&personally handed me over a new set of keys in a few days.
In the meanwhile, I just spotted a blank key with the same head Yamaha logo at a local keymaker's shop&asked him to make a copy with my existing original. I got this done coz I was not too sure I would get keys from HO.
However, within a few days I got a call from ASO&received 2 keys. Result: I have 4 keys now!
Though the key no.system&replacement is common in cars, it is a bit difficult&requires many follow-ups for bikes. Mostly even the company guys will suggest you look outside.
So, I would suggest you take a good look around at local keymakers-they will have a blank with the same head. I am still using the duplicate&no problems yet.
Don't think changing the lock set is a safe option-if someone wants to flick the bike, they have means of doing it even with the handle locked&they don't need any key for it (read previous posts).
Lock set may not be available/may take too long/costly to procure.

^ the concern wasnt someone else tampering the lockset, the concern was being stranded with loosing the only key he had

Your suggestion regarding having the small sprocket cleaned worked like a charm. I had this done at the service centre during the first service and Lo! Behold - No noise. Thanks once again for some great advice.

Ok, Lets see how things turn out after the running in

Thanks a bunch for the suggestions.

Can you, please elaborate the bold part.

Thank you all. I do not think I will change the whole lock set and meanwhile I will search to make the set of keys from the local shop wallas. Made a call to Venkatesh Showroom and got couple of bad piece of info from there :-

-- According to SVC manager Shartath, company does not give spare keys, no matter what. Infact he even claimed that they never did .

-- I picked up a Motul 20w40 mineral oil to change the engine oil be4 the first service itself. But the svc guys claims that if i do not use Yamalube, it will void the warranty. (how is it possible, i want to change to motum mineral rightaway and from first service i want to use motul fully synthetic) I know couple of R15 who are all running on Motul and they said it does not affect the warranty bit. Please help.

@Saravjit -----it would be a great help if you can give me the contact details of Mr.Satyanarayana, the area sales manager. (Honestly, iam really irritated with the attitude of the svc guys and they seem to care less)

They are right, using motul does void warranty. Any particular reason for choosing motul over yamalube so early? (mineral oils only, i know the 300V synthetic is very good .)

Also, from what i've read, fully synthetic oils are recommended only after about 8 - 10k Km (but can be used earlier if you trip for long distances, i think...)

Cheers,

Shr.

Hey I think you got confused... he said Mineral not Synthetic

Third Service Report

Got my third free service done yesterday at 5963 Km:

1) General service, checkup and cleaning.
2) Brakes checked and found to be good
3) Coolant topped and brake fluid checked.
4) Tappet adjustment not required, no sound or vibes so far.
5) Engine oil not changed as i had changed it at 4900 Km (I plan to start using the Yamalube semi-synth at the next change at ~ 6500 Km).
6) Clutch and chain lubricated, cleaned and adjusted.
7) Through cleaning of the rear alloy (had gotten dirty due to the chain spray falling on it.)
8) Front cone set checked.

Will be picking up a temp stand today.


Happy Riding.

Cheers,

Shr.

Hey,

I'm still confused as i'm seeing "fully synthetic" in his post . Thats what happens if you boost too many cars or bikes. No offense, just kidding.

Shr.

^^ what did they do specifically to check the front cone set???

@madmax - the cylinder of the R15 afaik does not support any oversizes. Its designed to be hard wearing, and last the life of the bike. Also if your cylinder wears out, you will replace it with a new cylinder and new rings and new piston. No oversizing.

^ I thought that i heard a rattling noise a couple of times at the very front of the nose cone under the place where the headlight is placed.

Asked the svc to check on this and they said the screws on the inner fairings were a little loose...

Cheers,

Shr.

^^ oh ok.. i thought when you said cone, you meant the race cone set... i need to get mine checked and lubricated..

Satyen, technically, engine break-in is nothing but mating in of parts through wear in. Initially when the bore,cylinder and rings are new, the friction will be very high between the mated parts and hence we are advised to keep the bike below a certain RPM to reduce friction.


Its kind of a vicious circle until engine ceases or the piston gets stuck to the cylinder

So technically speaking, there is no reason to tell that engine braking is harmful even when the internals are new. I am not talking about shifting from 6th at 6k rpm to 1 st gear straight . Engine braking will actually make the new engine more versatile. If you are still not convinced, i can try with some more additional points. Lets talk technical....

^^ doesnt the air fuel entering the cylinder cool the face of the piston during the intake stroke, and doesnt that keep the piston from expanding un-necessarily.

Moreover the fuel does act like a lubricating agent. So when you close the throttle at high rpm, you are starving your engine of fuel, increasing friction, and internal temps. Thats why it is not recommended to use engine braking during running in period.

There are other factors too, like wearing in of clutch plates, con-rod load bearing directions, piston and ring groove cutting etc.