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Yamaha YZF-R15
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@D Coolest: You should keep it on mineral oil for at-least 3/4K.Originally posted by D Coolest 1 View PostAny suggestions for Engine Oil change? should I go for motul 5100T SS?? Or it is good to keep it on mineral oil for a couple of thousand kms? what do you think guys?
@zerotosixtyOriginally posted by zerotosixty View PostAny reason why to keep the rpm below 7K? I broke in my R15 as per the intruction manual. i.e kept her under 5K for the first 500Ks and under 7.5K rpms for the next 500.once the first service was done i opened her up and go all the way till 10K. And the manual also says that rev the bike freely till 7.5 K rpm during the 500- 1000 Kms. Till now my bike has done 2.1K and is a absolute treat to ride her all day.@mechduderxz: As I remember, it is 135-138 kmph (true), I'm not fully sure.Originally posted by mechduderxz View Postcan anybody PLS tell me whats the TRUE TOP SPEED of a STOCK R15.....?
Adnan
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Congrats bro! Do take proper care of your baby.Originally posted by D Coolest 1 View PostHey Guys,
Well I am following xbhp since long, but never posted in this thread, now I have a reason to do so..
Got a R15!!
Previously I had a Unicorn for 7 months then P200 for 6 months and now the R15 and I am sure gonna keep this one for long. I know what you all will be thinking, that I am changing bikes so frequently, but there were some other concerns which popped up hence I was changing and moving forward.
Anyways, here's about the R15... got the delivery on 1st and now already clocked 950 kms or so with in a week! Going for 1st service tomorrow mostly. Well there is only one word to define a R15... Awesome!! with respect to indian bikes available with in 1.5L price range (on road). Extremely flick-able, good punch when in the power band.. and of course the road presence it has. Vibrations are very low, and the engine sound is also with in limits.
The lower end although suffers a bit and need frequent gear shifts. With pillion it is again a bit of pain to pull fast, but it's pros are much higher than these small cons.
Kept it below 5000 rpm for first 500 kms. Keeping it below 7500 rpm at present, just a couple of time went up to 9000. Touched a top speed of 123 with a pillion, and the feeling was great!
Overall I am totally satisfied with my machine, here is a snapshot without riding gears...
(which I always wear though)
2005 HH Karizma [SOLD]
2008 Yamaha R15 V1.0 [SOLD]
2018 Bajaj Dominar 400 ABS Matte Black [Current]
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Originally posted by Sharan_R View PostShift at 9,000RPM for Maximum power output. Personal opinion/experience.
Try accelerating with another guy on a R15 ( Duh ) and ask him to shift at 9,000RPM and you try shifting at 10,000RPM or 10,500RPM and you can see who moves ahead!
No Offense Brother!
Just sharing my opinion!
I gotta try this..
I hit my topspeed of 146 km/hr without lookin at the tacho (was chasing a Ninja 250R at a G2G
). I mostly ride by the sound/feel of the engine..
And no offence taken brotha!
A good rider has balance, judgment, and good timing. So does a good lover!
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you can do it yourself...click on edit, then select delete message, dont forget to check the delete message option under the heading deleting options.Originally posted by GreymatterDear Mod, plz delete 2 of my similar replies in this page. Thanksafter monday and tuesday, even the calendar says WTF!!
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Any permanent solution for my problem?Originally posted by Greymatter View PostHi friends how are you all? I'm a college student from Assam & this is my first post here. I've a Blue R15 bought on Sept 2008 & clocked only 2774 Kms till date as I use my Palio 1.6 more then my bike. Actually I'm facing a strange problem with my bike since Nov 09 i.e. whenever I ride my bike at slow speed say within 3k rpm I hear a kit-kit-kit sound from right side of the engine & my bike behaves as if there is no fuel but as soon as I take it above 3k rpm then it becomes normal. When I faced this problem for the first time I went to my nearest SVC, the head mechanic there changed that Rubber Cap of spark plug & wow that sound was gone. I was so happy but next day that same problem resurfaced. He (head mechanic) changed the spark plug & it was fine but after 2 months I again faced that same problem. This time I told him to replace both the rubber cap & spark plug but unfortunately after 2-3 months the same story. Believe me guys so far I replaced 3 rubber caps & 3 spark plugs but this kit-kit-kit thing appears again after a gap of 2-3 months. He even checked the spark plug connection wire but it was ok. So what shall I do now?2005 HH Karizma [SOLD]
2008 Yamaha R15 V1.0 [SOLD]
2018 Bajaj Dominar 400 ABS Matte Black [Current]
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Oh thanks!Originally posted by veyron999 View Postyou can do it yourself...click on edit, then select delete message, dont forget to check the delete message option under the heading deleting options.2005 HH Karizma [SOLD]
2008 Yamaha R15 V1.0 [SOLD]
2018 Bajaj Dominar 400 ABS Matte Black [Current]
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hey guys
well this is something interesting
all you have to do is take your machine for a small drive. put her in 1st gear and observe at what rpm do you feel like the tank, handlebars are getting little vibrations. keep your legs close to the tank.
i checked for mine. the very first minor vibration was felt at 4,000 rpm.
check for your too!yEs yAmAhA!
YZF R15, my love
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Hahah, yeah, I've struggled so much trying to think of alternative for the tire hugger! Whenever I look at another bike, I see if it has a tire hugger that I can take and fit on mine! Such is the desperationOriginally posted by Sharan_R View PostStop posting that Photo. I get reminded of that damn Tire Hugger.
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Its total editing :P I had first seen it and thought my dealer hadn't shown me the color! But then, it doesn't exist :POriginally posted by rajit999 View Postawesome bike color it really looks fresh and appealing
Dude, The rims of the R15 itself are designed for tubeless tires. I dont think you can fit a tire with a tube here. If your tire is cracked, get it changed to a new one of the same type. The R15 tubeless zappers are awesome! They grip like crazy, whatever angle you're riding the bike. Dont change them.Originally posted by rajit999 View Posthello my dear Xbhpians Namaste and Salam valekum
i have a R 15 which has clocked just 7000 kms in a 2yrs time, there's a small crack in the tyre and also had a lot of punctures the tread is fine i need to go to fill in the air every day, i dont know from where does the air leak from.
as of which i thought of going in fitting a tube in the tyre, i don't know how it would effect and also would like to know if again i can fit a tube less tyre after using a tube in it,
what tyre would be best suitable for rough roads always full of mud and sand no clean roads in my town? shall i go in for a mrf tube tyre?
plz help me brothers
Yeah, that is true. But, if you get the redline shifting a tad bit wrong, you'll lose a lot of speed and time since the ECU rev limiter kicks in and decreases power immediately. So, you gotta learn to shift at the redline for the best drag performance. And also, try not pulling the clutch lever too much. Just feather touches should be enough along with synchronized gear changes. I constantly do 110kmph everywhere in my city :POriginally posted by neoakshay View PostShifting at 10,000 Rpm ensures that you are in the meat of the powerband. Also, u get the maximum speed that can be achieved on each gear.D'oh!
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A change of heart, goodOriginally posted by ZeNashB View PostThey grip like crazy, whatever angle you're riding the bike. Dont change them.
You do not need to clutch-in while going up in your gear box,So, you gotta learn to shift at the redline for the best drag performance. And also, try not pulling the clutch lever too much. Just feather touches should be enough along with synchronized gear changes.
While starting/practicing, use the clutch while going from 1st to 2nd.
Post this, just let go off your throttle for a fraction and bring the gear home. But what I have noticed is, you need to shift at 6000rpm+, else the 'box gets clunky.
Similarly while braking, try to go down the 'box by blipping the throttle.
Watch You-Tube videos and scour the inter-net.
While inside city confines, I shift between 6-7K, Riding on twisties or for fun, anywhere between 9-10K.
Not a very good way to ride inside city confines, give it upI constantly do 110kmph everywhere in my city :P
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During my last(6th) service, although I changed over to Yamalube Semi-Synthetic, I didn't get the oil filter changed. I didn't know that it had to be changed, and I just came across this post.Originally posted by sheelpriye View PostRemember to change your oil filter though when you change your grade.
Would this folly of mine cause any adverse effect ?
Last edited by R@jesh; 10-09-2010, 01:00 PM.
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Did you change grades?Originally posted by R@jesh View PostDuring my last(6th) service, although I changed over to Yamalube Semi-Synthetic, I didn't get the oil filter changed. I didn't know that it had to be changed, and I just came across this post.
Would this folly of mine cause any adverse effect ?
The filter change should be done even if you change companies (Yamalube>Motul) and the oils are of same grade.
Change the filter next time around. (recommended every 10K and or when you change oil(grade/company).Last edited by sheelpriye; 10-09-2010, 01:11 PM.
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Originally posted by R@jesh View PostDuring my last(6th) service, although I changed over to Yamalube Semi-Synthetic, I didn't get the oil filter changed. I didn't know that it had to be changed, and I just came across this post.
Would this folly of mine cause any adverse effect ?
if you change the oil grade, then you need to change the filter right away
if you stick to only one grade then it is recommended to change the filter every 10k
in your case i would suggest you to change the filter next time you put new oilyEs yAmAhA!
YZF R15, my love
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