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**sachin1111** · 12-23-2012, 10:06 AM

Originally posted by joseph.alukka View Post

[ATTACH=CONFIG]88841[/ATTACH]
So bro as a start, please check the above pic. Its my stock setting, never touched by screw driver by me before taking this snap and gives 75kmpl. You can even notice blue marker from factory. And my twister is the early model.. Its 2.5yrs+ old , so maybe earlier setting was \ and not / . So if you turn 180 degrees as I ve shown in pic, it will look the same and to bring it back, you should turn 180 backwards or anticlockwise, so it becomes as in the picture. And no, the bellow is not fixed, donno if design changed later, it comes out if you squeeze the neck out out, to confirm, you can open the filter box and verify if its fixed or not. It wont break, its polyurethane and not even rubber technically and is used to make bumper cases for phones mostly. Please open the filter box to confirm if in doubt.

And about the fuel, always the air:fuel ratio should be constant which is normally 14.1:1. We can burn 14 grams of air per 1 gram of fuel per second or even 28 grams of air and 2 grams of fuel, but still ratio is same,power increases and no problem. If we try to burn 15:1, the mixture is lean and power drops, if its 14:2, power goes up, fe drops. so when we remove bellow, 14:1 becomes somthing like 21:1.5 which is the same ratio, but more fuel consumption. so we control the fuel now.

We can let in our carb setting by default and it lets enough fuel in, but air is restricted. Without sufficient air, no fuel can burn, no matter how much we supply it. So the factory fuel screw position is fine. But when we let more air in, automatically, the extra fuel also burns and drops FE, so we make the mix leaner with the screw adjustment. Hope you got the point.
And no its not 1 turn, its 1/2 turn, ie, 180 degrees. You may also try 135 degrees for a bit more power.

I experiemented quite a bit with it and I found the 180 degree to be best for sound+performance+mileage. If 180 makes your engine stall, make it 135 which is between 1/4 turn and 1/2 turn like 4:30 in the clock

If your default setting is /, maybe you will do fine with 135 degrees, please check.I got 73/74 kmpl yesterday with a good level of fun with the throttle

It changes the feel of your bike. thats the best part!

i opened the Air filter box today......like you said the curved Tube is not fixed...yes it does move... so i tried to squeeze the neck with hand to pull it out. but it was bit difficult with hand...I think i need to press it hard with some metal object like screw driver.The tube materiel is soft but the locking area (shown in pic with arrow on right hand side)is much harder..hence i dont want to take chances.For the fuel screw half a turn seems ok...as per your calculation but there are good chances of starting and idling problems during normal running....specially those who are using kick starter could face difficulties while starting. I wanted to know..how did you managed to measure the actual amount of fuel and the amount of air going in the carb in terms of ratios for twister?

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**Pinaki** · 12-23-2012, 02:08 PM

I have doubt if such a large diameter intake tube produces any restriction at all for air to pass . Maybe removing it just alters the intake sound and the throttle improvement you see is from the AFR adjustment alone

? Moreover the chances of ruining the paper filter from water ingress is significant without it . Remember that once a paper air-filter gets wet, it is useless and must be discarded .

**sachin1111** · 12-23-2012, 09:09 PM

Originally posted by Pinaki View Post

I have doubt if such a large diameter intake tube produces any restriction at all for air to pass . Maybe removing it just alters the intake sound and the throttle improvement you see is from the AFR adjustment alone

? Moreover the chances of ruining the paper filter from water ingress is significant without it . Remember that once a paper air-filter gets wet, it is useless and must be discarded .

yes..the pipe dia is large enough but that curved air pipe goes under the seat.....and this under seat area is somewhat restricted to air suction...because there is just a small gap in way of shock absorbers from where air enters this underseat area and then this air enters this pipe. i think the reason for this arrangement is because since underseat area is fully protected from water and therefore there are no chances of water entering this air pipe and thus paper filter will always remain safe from water. Now if we remove the air pipe from underseat space....then air will not be sucked from underseat area but it will be sucked from right hand side covers....because that is where the air opening starts(with pipe removed)....and if small water droplets enters through side cover gaps..it will directly hit paper filter....and spoil paper filter in no time.I agree removing the pipe will definitely alter the intake sound. also the amount of air getting in through filter will largely depend on how porous the filter element is...and to lesser extent due to direct exposure to air. I think when we change to fit K&N filters we can see some change in sound for this reason.

**Dhaval Sinh Yadav** · 12-24-2012, 01:20 AM

Soorry I miss The post Im very Thank Ful For ur Reply

Originally posted by madhav766 View Post

Rajaselvam already answered your queries. Please check.

Sent from my WT19i

**Dhaval Sinh Yadav** · 12-24-2012, 01:29 AM

Need Air Filter !

Hey Some More Questions ?

1.i totaly read whole Thread 1 page to last page..
- Need Air Filter (Off Cource K&n) but Any product number & serial ? how can i find perfect air filter for twister.expain Cost

- Any negative effcet on engine ?

- Now days i don`t want to install HID lights need A Good Bulb For twisty Head light..my mostly ride night on Highway..so trucks and cars lights are to high sometime SO Need more light (Cost mention plz)

-if i change air filter then its avoid the company gurantee

**mrbabu76** · 12-24-2012, 07:34 AM

Originally posted by Dhaval Sinh Yadav View Post

Hey Some More Questions ?

1.i totaly read whole Thread 1 page to last page..
- Need Air Filter (Off Cource K&n) but Any product number & serial ? how can i find perfect air filter for twister.expain Cost

- Any negative effcet on engine ?

- Now days i don`t want to install HID lights need A Good Bulb For twisty Head light..my mostly ride night on Highway..so trucks and cars lights are to high sometime SO Need more light (Cost mention plz)

-if i change air filter then its avoid the company gurantee

Twister stock head lights are quite powerful, please double check and compare with other bikes and then decide on any modification. The head light bulb is Philips Germany with good illumination.

**madhav766** · 12-24-2012, 07:48 AM

Re: The Honda CB Twister

Originally posted by mrbabu76 View Post

Twister stock head lights are quite powerful, please double check and compare with other bikes and then decide on any modification. The head light bulb is Philips Germany with good illumination.

I agree with this. Moreover, k&n will do no good for a low capacity bike like ours. Keep everything stock. You could try the bellow removal that joseph suggested : its a stock way of improving performance.

Yes, changing any part to anything but stick voids warranty.

Sent from my WT19i

**Comskian** · 12-25-2012, 07:52 PM

I have changed the rear tire to Continental ContiGo! 100/90!

Had also considered Michellin Pilot Sporty 100/90 and Pirelli MT 75 110/80 in the shop. Michellin was tube type and hence decided to drop it. Even I got a quote of Rs.1800 in J C Road, Bangalore for fitting this as tubeless. But all the other shops I visited adviced to fit it as tube type. I know that Rajaselvam is using it as TL for sometime without problems, but still didnt want to go for it. I liked the positive reviews of MT 75, but 110 is a bit too wide for Twister and they did not have 100 in stock. Finally I decided to trust German engineering and went with ContiGo! which was the only tire which fits 17" rim! I could also find some favourable reviews of this tyre in the net.

So far I have only ridden back home from the shop and all I can say is nothing felt odd. The tire is definitely taller than the stock MRF. But I did not feel much difference in the handling of the bike. Have to wait and see how it will affect the mileage.

Have added some pictures for your viewing pleasure! :~)

Edit: Odo reading is 19800 KM

**sachin1111** · 12-26-2012, 01:47 AM

Originally posted by Comskian View Post

I have changed the rear tire to Continental ContiGo! 100/90!

Had also considered Michellin Pilot Sporty 100/90 and Pirelli MT 75 110/80 in the shop. Michellin was tube type and hence decided to drop it. Even I got a quote of Rs.1800 in J C Road, Bangalore for fitting this as tubeless. But all the other shops I visited adviced to fit it as tube type. I know that Rajaselvam is using it as TL for sometime without problems, but still didnt want to go for it. I liked the positive reviews of MT 75, but 110 is a bit too wide for Twister and they did not have 100 in stock. Finally I decided to trust German engineering and went with ContiGo! which was the only tire which fits 17" rim! I could also find some favourable reviews of this tyre in the net.

So far I have only ridden back home from the shop and all I can say is nothing felt odd. The tire is definitely taller than the stock MRF. But I did not feel much difference in the handling of the bike. Have to wait and see how it will affect the mileage.

Looking at thread design.....it seems like this tyre will provide good grip on wet road so should work very well during rains. whats the cost?

**rajaselvam_1987** · 12-26-2012, 11:34 PM

Originally posted by Comskian View Post

I have changed the rear tire to Continental ContiGo! 100/90!

Had also considered Michellin Pilot Sporty 100/90 and Pirelli MT 75 110/80 in the shop. Michellin was tube type and hence decided to drop it. Even I got a quote of Rs.1800 in J C Road, Bangalore for fitting this as tubeless. But all the other shops I visited adviced to fit it as tube type. I know that Rajaselvam is using it as TL for sometime without problems, but still didnt want to go for it. I liked the positive reviews of MT 75, but 110 is a bit too wide for Twister and they did not have 100 in stock. Finally I decided to trust German engineering and went with ContiGo! which was the only tire which fits 17" rim! I could also find some favourable reviews of this tyre in the net.

So far I have only ridden back home from the shop and all I can say is nothing felt odd. The tire is definitely taller than the stock MRF. But I did not feel much difference in the handling of the bike. Have to wait and see how it will affect the mileage.

Have added some pictures for your viewing pleasure! :~)

Edit: Odo reading is 19800 KM

Congrats for your neeeew tyre. Waiting for this tyre review on twister

**Comskian** · 12-28-2012, 10:19 AM

Thank you! It has costed me Rs. 2100 in J C Road, Bangalore. So far after riding around for 2 days, it feels good. I am normally not a 'cornering guy', but still I feel the bike now leans into a curve more perfectly, evidently from the tire shape. Will let u know the experience on riding in rain once I get a chance

**joseph.alukka** · 12-28-2012, 11:29 PM

Originally posted by rajaselvam_1987 View Post

What about engine life.
Every engine is made only for it's own performance. In engine every parts are designed for that particular performance only. If you simply increase the burning rate alone initially it'll
show performance but later it'll kill your engine. If this is the way to increase the engine performance then why should we have to go for a bigger capacity engines. We can simply increase the air fuel ratio & get a good performance & also as you said we can get a good mileage too.
Simply increasing the air fuel ratio alone will definitely kill the engine that's why the engine modifiers are modifying the entire engine parts like bore,piston,crank,......
HONDA is making their own engines & they are having big R&D for engine too.They knew how to design a particular engine for a particular performance.
Have you ever seen a 110cc commuter bike with this much power with good mileage. If you want a good performance then go for a higher capacity bikes don't kill your engine.

Buddy, do you know what a K&N filter does? And you might have seen lakhs of people with it onboard and do they all have a dead engine? This mod of mine does exactly what a K&N filter does, without you spending a dime. The performance boost after this is not what it is compared to a 600cc bike, as I told its just 5-10% improvement, so no worries :-). I experiment a lot on stuffs before suggesting it to anyone. Whether you chose to do this mod or not, your engine will need maintenance. This bike was meant to be as soft as possible taking into consideration also the elderly riders, that's why the thing is on the filter box to make it silent and softer. Im not an old man and I would like my bike to gain the respect it deserves. You might be thinking of me as a newbie tweaking on his bike to pull some show :-), but I work on carbs since years, so I trust myself. Im not gonna keep a Twister till the end of my life so thought to make the most out of it when I can and thought to share. :-) Use it, or ignore it

i opened the Air filter box today......like you said the curved Tube is not fixed...yes it does move... so i tried to squeeze the neck with hand to pull it out. but it was bit difficult with hand...I think i need to press it hard with some metal object like screw driver.The tube materiel is soft but the locking area (shown in pic with arrow on right hand side)is much harder..hence i dont want to take chances.For the fuel screw half a turn seems ok...as per your calculation but there are good chances of starting and idling problems during normal running....specially those who are using kick starter could face difficulties while starting. I wanted to know..how did you managed to measure the actual amount of fuel and the amount of air going in the carb in terms of ratios for twister?

No idling or starting problems bro. I start it every day at 6.30 am with one crank. I found the exact ratio simply by trial and error as any mechanic would tune a carb on any 4s bike noting the beat and spark plug ash. Took me 2-3 tries to settle for this. 135 degrees would be a safe bet if in doubt.

I have doubt if such a large diameter intake tube produces any restriction at all for air to pass . Maybe removing it just alters the intake sound and the throttle improvement you see is from the AFR adjustment alone ? Moreover the chances of ruining the paper filter from water ingress is significant without it . Remember that once a paper air-filter gets wet, it is useless and must be discarded .

The dia is fine for normal pull, but as the air flow rate increases on acceleration, the turn in that pipe induces a lot of restriction. And air flowing through a pipe definitely has resistance to overcome. So I happened to see the performance improvement when accelerating from 5k rpm. Regarding the second part, the throttle improvement is not due to the ratio adjustment as, initially, I just removed the pipe and didn't tune the engine. The pickup was awesome, but huge drop in FE, so tuned down the afr. Tuning the AFR is not compulsory for this mod unless anyone wud care about the mileage. And you are right about the wetting part. Thats why I had warned everyone twice in the post about not doing this in wet weather

Originally posted by sachin1111

yes..the pipe dia is large enough but that curved air pipe goes under the seat.....and this under seat area is somewhat restricted to air suction...because there is just a small gap in way of shock absorbers from where air enters this underseat area and then this air enters this pipe. i think the reason for this arrangement is because since underseat area is fully protected from water and therefore there are no chances of water entering this air pipe and thus paper filter will always remain safe from water. Now if we remove the air pipe from underseat space....then air will not be sucked from underseat area but it will be sucked from right hand side covers....because that is where the air opening starts(with pipe removed)....and if small water droplets enters through side cover gaps..it will directly hit paper filter....and spoil paper filter in no time.I agree removing the pipe will definitely alter the intake sound. also the amount of air getting in through filter will largely depend on how porous the filter element is...and to lesser extent due to direct exposure to air. I think when we change to fit K&N filters we can see some change in sound for this reason.

spot on buddy !

Please dont do it in rainy season.

Originally posted by Comskian

I have changed the rear tire to Continental ContiGo! 100/90!

Looks great dude!! btw your stock tyre has that much thread left after 20k kms?? :-o

**ajay600** · 01-03-2013, 09:33 PM

Hi all,

im from Chennai and this is my first post... feels great to be part of this community because of all the knowledge that you guys possess..

right now my 2.5 yr old twister bike which was in pristine condition met with an accident on new years day and now has lots of problems like my front fender broke, handle bar has a huge bend, front doom is slightly broken, rear lamp and holder (the black plastic thing) has all been broken...
how ever as of now, i ve only opted to replace the fender and the handle bar bend...

but my bike had other issues earlier like, bike takes several kicks to start and engine tuns off suddenly with a slight 'dupp' sound and severe milage issues...
where could the problem be..,. what all should I replace/ ask the mechanic to check...

does ur bike start when in gear .. strangely, my bike has stopped doing that after giving it to a local mechanic some time back

also im not too happy abt the honda guys service... is it better to do it locally ??

**sachin1111** · 01-05-2013, 12:44 AM

Originally posted by ajay600 View Post

Hi all,

im from Chennai and this is my first post... feels great to be part of this community because of all the knowledge that you guys possess..

right now my 2.5 yr old twister bike which was in pristine condition met with an accident on new years day and now has lots of problems like my front fender broke, handle bar has a huge bend, front doom is slightly broken, rear lamp and holder (the black plastic thing) has all been broken...
how ever as of now, i ve only opted to replace the fender and the handle bar bend...

but my bike had other issues earlier like, bike takes several kicks to start and engine tuns off suddenly with a slight 'dupp' sound and severe milage issues...
where could the problem be..,. what all should I replace/ ask the mechanic to check...

does ur bike start when in gear .. strangely, my bike has stopped doing that after giving it to a local mechanic some time back

also im not too happy abt the honda guys service... is it better to do it locally ??

hi ajay, welcome to forum!! I think bike is suppose to start in neutral gear....and not in other gears...mine starts in neutral only. regarding starting problem, there can be many reasons. first check the idle RPM is set to 1400RPM or bit more to 1500-1600 rpm( when engine is warm). regarding that sound check if spark plug cap is fitting tightly on top of spark plug...(costs around 70 rs)when this cap becomes loose, the spark leaks off and engine stops with some sound.other then this there are chances of ignition coil becoming weak over a period of time....so you may need to check and replace it if necessary( costs over RS 500 i think). also get the tappet clearances adjusted from Honda service center....using filler gauge of 0.1mm.check the condition of spark plug and clean the spark plug of carbon deposits. check the tuning of engine and set the fuel screw where you get maximum continuous RPM.
How much was the expense for replacing fender and handle bar?

**sachin1111** · 01-05-2013, 01:51 AM

Hi guys,wishing you all a happy new year. I had some fun rides on the beach for last few days....and noticed lots of sand and dirt getting stuck in chain. even after cleaning the chain with diesel there was still crackling sound...so i decided to clean every part and area that chain travels through. First removed the half chain cover and cleaned it with diesel followed by rubber padding on which chain slides.then wanted to remove that small cover near the engine that houses driving gear..but to remove that cover we need 8 number ring spanner to remove the two cover bolts.. so bought the spanner from shop and opened the cover for the first time... and was shocked to see the amount of dirt stuck in that cover and area surrounding the small gear.After one hour of hard cleaning and getting hands dirty i could collect dirt that would easily fill a glass. Now i feel this is the main culprit of chain and sprocket wearing out. I would suggest all to clean this area if you have not done before.i have also noticed some dirty oil like thing in crankcase breather tube....(transparent tube on right hand side near engine)..... am going to open the Air housing chamber i.e air chamber behind air filter where this crankcase breather tube is connected and clean up any oil or dirt.

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