Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S

Then prefer 20w40 . Since the symptoms you are getting is arising from parasitic drag . 20w40 is well suited to all the ambient temps we are likely to encounter . it is also a more stable (longer lasting) and better lube . yamalube's 20w40 SG/SL is excellent too .

Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S

I meant when the oil way new, it behaved just like what you had described. But now after ~900kms, its giving better feedback (i.e. less chunky gears) and i do feel its better than Yamalube mineral.

"Parasitic drag" new words for me sir let me search google baba for more on this.
And ya, i do plan to stick with stock grades as i don't like the feedback i am getting from the present oil.

Parasitic Drag is drag caused by moving a solid object through a fluid.

Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S

Now nearing 1000kms of use , your 15w50 is broken down to near 15w40 or less , owing to additive depletion . this is common with long range oils . that is why it is feeling better .

when the engine parts turn in oil , the oil creates a resistance on the turning force . heavier the oil , more that resistance . that is parasitic drag . it robs the engine of rpms and power . that is why we need to use the least viscous oil we can get away with , while getting all the necessary lubrication too at the ambient temps we usually encounter .

Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S

Any reference for further reading on depletion of engine-oil grade over a period of usage?

Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S

[MENTION=29030]Pinaki[/MENTION] sir, thanks for the clearer explaination of parasitic drag.

But i don't understand one thing, if 15w50 can break down to 15w50 or less, then what prevents 20w50 oil going through similar degradation ?

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Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S

A lot if you google around for it . Mind it that I am able to understand very little of it . So I boil it down to the most simple facts that I can use as a biker .
What happens is that high-heat and the shearing forces ( like in the gearbox ) tear down the VI additives ( which are basically long chain polymers , coiled up like springs ) . So they now become short pieces of polymers floating about in the oil doing zilch about viscosity maintenance . Longer range oil = more such polymers in it = quicker breakdown .

20w40 oil has almost nothing of vi additives in it , cause it needs very little to achieve it's short range from 20 to 40 grade . so it doesn't suffer from this problem . so you shall see that no one even bothers to make a synthetic or semi-synthetic 20w40 . A 10w30 or 15w50 non-synthetic on the other hand is likely to breakdown to 10w20 and 15w40 or less within 1000kms of use in fast turning motorcycle engines with common gearbox oil .

Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S

What i have readed is the more an oil can be refined the more it can resist this weakness of thermal breakdown, the crude oil is boiled separately to different parts and then filtered and processed each distill increases the price, every time the oil is distilled it gets cleaner but you cannot remove 100% harmful compounds which are naturally present in the crude oil, but by processing oil many times they remains in a very small proportion, but it will break down, synthetic oils are improved to withstand broader temperature ranges and are more resistant to thermal breakdowns, still best prevention for your engine is to change the oil as prescribed in the owners manual.

Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S

[MENTION=29030]Pinaki[/MENTION] sir.. now got your point Thanks a lot. This explains a lot..

Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S

Google in the hands of inexperienced user will be waste of time, hitting useless links. I thought you had several case studies bookmarked, I was hoping to steal some.

Interesting read will be about TBN(& TAN) readings of different engines oils after one/two thousand kms usage in real motorcycles.

Total Base Number - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S

All oil have Additives in it. Let it be 20W40 or 10W30 oil, the Additive Treat Rate is same thru all ranges. It is the Viscosity Improver (VI) that is added to make a 20W40 or 10W30 oil or any other range of oils.

It is the Additives addition that allows a company to claim xxx kms. The claim of categorizing it under Mineral / Semi-Synth / Full Synth is done by using mixture of respective Group 1 / Group 2 / Group 3 / Group 4 base oil.

A oil can be made only by mixing Base Oil and Additives also and not adding Viscosity Improver in it.

Cheerz!!

Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S

Hi guys, as its rainy reason, my fzs attracts mud etc. I wash it daily(without any shampoo) to clean the mud particles out.
After washing do I need to wipe it? If yes using which cloth do I need to wipe.
Weekly once I wash with shampoo, also pls let me know a good shampoo dedicated for vehicles.
Thank you

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Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S

For washing your bike you must use microfiber sponge or 100% cotton, painted parts of the bike should be absolutely drenched in water before applying shampoo to it, for drying your bike just park it in the shade after washing and take some chamois cloth and put it on the bike to absorb all the water from the wet surfaces of the bike, do special care of nooks and crannies in the bike where water would have entered while washing, get some formula1 shampoo or turtle wax shampo, uber shine, to wash your bike,they contains waxing properties and give a car or a bike nice shining surface, or you can use sunsilk black shampoo sachet for that hair like shiny bike.It will be cheap and easily available.

Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S

Mine is Battle Green bro. I dont know whether its the same paint on the other colours, any way. Wil buy any one among formula1, turtle wax shampo, uber shine.
Thanks for advising.

A year old rider. Needs the elder brothers/sisters to help him out

Hey guys
First of all thank you for reading this post, i have been riding for a year now (got my first bike-fazer: a year back), i have issues with it . could be my own stupid thoughts or they might be actual issues. Please read the following with an open mind and try to ignore my inexperience;

1) I missed 2 services in one year - no excuses i had reasons but still it's not an excuse. I wanted to know if my warranty if still intact, if not is there anything i can do ? will buying the 3 year extra warranty which Yamaha provides at the varying rate of 799-999 be applicable if i have my warranty void ? This is the crux of my issue as following things depend on it. What can/might/may/will be covered if there is warranty . if not how much of a hole will it burn in my pockets .
a)i have a feeling that the throttle has become sticky- literally . the crispness is lost - what are my options
b) my front - disk brakes have become weak - like that of a cycle which nearly go all the way in . not all the way but yes they've become mushier .
c)i want to get both my headlights started - and fit a blue angel eye headlight - will this affect my warranty ?
d) anyone staying in Mumbai - could you please guide me to a trusted mechanic -

Thanks a lot , awaiting your guidance -
regards - gaurav

Re: A year old rider. Needs the elder brothers/sisters to help him out

We are all bikers here and experience comes only with riding! So dont worry and ask what you want
But as good asking etiquette says, check if your question has already been answered so that the thread doesn't keep getting redundant questions!

The SVC I go to, usually count missed services as done and thereby reducing your available free services. So if you have missed two services and then go then they will count those two services as done and will do the 3rd service for you. They dont void your warranty although it depends from one SVC to another. It happened to me too when I missed one service. So they counted two services. They didn't void my warranty though.

Most likely your throttle cables have rusted internally. Since you are in Mumbai, the salty sea air accelerates the rusting of metals. Just get the cables changed and your throttle should be fine. Keep lubricating them afterwards.

There is air in your brake line. You need to bleed them (replace the entire brake fluid). Its a simple procedure. There are many DIYs available on this forum or anywhere on the internet.
You can do it yourself even if you are not confident. But if you really prefer not to play with your brakes (after all they save your life), then take it to a mechanic. But they way those guys bleed brakes sent shivers down my spine once
After seeing them do it once I decided that i'm gonna bleed them myself immediately after going home and thats what I did. I'm never asking a mechanic to bleed my brakes again

You can buy an extra wiring harness for the headlights and tinker with it. Both the headlamps are the same, just the connections are made differently. Just connect the low-beam wire from the left side to the right and high-beam wire from the right side to the left. You will understand it clearly once you open it and inspect. Not sure about the angel eyes.

Mumabikar xBhpians can help you with this. Or you can check the General Biking Discussions forum in the mechanics thread.

Hope I helped