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Man!!! It seems that you practically had to re do the head!!! Some 'plug & play' solution that is!!! Compared to your experience, Joel's solutions are absolutely painless.Originally posted by Mad Mik View PostHere is a GoPro video clip of my first proper ride running in my new 200cc engine. My friend is riding on a 2011 black FZ16 with a yoshi muffler and custom made header pipe, otherwise stock.
I'm almost 2X as heavy as him (100kg Vs 55kg) and can pull away/catch him with ease.
This is the same 200cc engine kit Lucky Luc had bought. We both bought it (as we found out later after meeting face to face) from the same shop. (Automotivesparepartsshop in Indo)
Anyway, major work was needed to complete the cyl head, not to mention sourcing another forged piston(RRGS) as the piston supplied with the kit was unsuitable for the big valve head. The cam he supplied was too agressive, causing the valves to hit the piston. This piston was the wrong type as the machined reliefs were not suited for big valve head....Another fvckup from Haryono/Automotivesparepartsshop.com.
Anyway after major work to complete the head including finishing off the porting and polishing, decking the head to make it FLAT!! decompressing the cyl head, lapping the valve seats as NONE of the valves sealed!! (in a supposedly completed cyl head) changing the internal parts so they can actually work properly my bike was ready. Not to mention wrong valve guide angles!
Over 1week to finish the cyl head.
Bike has done around 80kms now on a new engine. the actual bike has done less than 2000kms IIRC. Giving it a good run in with plenty of 3/4 - full throttle and deceleration.
Engine oil is full synth. Just a experiment as the only wearing parts are the rings. My theory is since only the rings are the wearing parts and engine bearings are ball bearings not shell types it will be interesting to see the rings bed in.
***edit*** Top speed was only 109kph. I wasn't going for a top speed run.
As far as engine oil is concerned, you will have no problems, the idea of mineral oil for running in is 20 years old and redundant with today's engines which have closer assembly tolerances. Enjoy your ride :-)Last edited by abhimanyu31; 05-05-2012, 11:07 AM.Only a biker knows why a dog sticks his head out of a car window.
Multum in Parvo - Much in Little
"Yes, it is FAST! No, you CAN'T ride it!" - http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/general-...a-300-san.html
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THanks. My Bad. I did not see this post.Originally posted by muztariq View Postsomething wrong with the air filter.. Didnt saw you mentioned it getting cleaned in your query post. Or were you riding with choke on and didnt noticed.
I did clean the air filter. Choke was not on.
As I mentioned on the way 252 km was fine. but the way back was the problem. I did check the spark plug and the engine oil when i arrived back. spark plug was a bit dark. engine oil was normal and the same level as it should be.
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Thanks for reply. As i mentioned, after 70km speed, it is difficult to get to 90 and take loong time. when running at 90 or above, and reduced the speed and put back to higher speed, the bike slow down the speed noticebly and it take 2 to 3 seconds to get back the speed before increasing. hardly get to over 100.Originally posted by Berlin View Postany problem in riding like improper power delivery, hiccups, etc?
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check for following:Originally posted by ahsoe View PostThanks for reply. As i mentioned, after 70km speed, it is difficult to get to 90 and take loong time. when running at 90 or above, and reduced the speed and put back to higher speed, the bike slow down the speed noticebly and it take 2 to 3 seconds to get back the speed before increasing. hardly get to over 100.
1. proper tyre pressure....
2. proper chain slack... on centre stand the rear wheel should roll properly without any difficulty...
3. try fuelling in another station...
and riding constantly at speeds of 80+ will give lesser FE...
after doing the above points and test it one more time at the speeds of under 60... if it doesnt give 35+kmpl.... go to SVC and see weather the carburetor is tuned properly....Nothing is impossible, the word itself says 'i'm possible'! -Audrey Hepburn
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THanks. I will do that and will report back.Originally posted by Berlin View Postcheck for following:
1. proper tyre pressure....
2. proper chain slack... on centre stand the rear wheel should roll properly without any difficulty...
3. try fuelling in another station...
and riding constantly at speeds of 80+ will give lesser FE...
after doing the above points and test it one more time at the speeds of under 60... if it doesnt give 35+kmpl.... go to SVC and see weather the carburetor is tuned properly....
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fvck www.automotivesparepartsshop.com
Yes, I was lucky my mechanic knows what he's doing. He also let me "play" in his workshop for the time it took to build.Originally posted by abhimanyu31 View PostMan!!! It seems that you practically had to re do the head!!! Some 'plug & play' solution that is!!! Compared to your experience, Joel's solutions are absolutely painless.
As far as engine oil is concerned, you will have no problems, the idea of mineral oil for running in is 20 years old and redundant with today's engines which have closer assembly tolerances. Enjoy your ride :-)
We did "mock up" builds with Plasticine on the piston to see if there was any touching/kissing of the valve/piston assembly. Turns out with the "wild crazy mystery grind cam" (Hary couldn't give me ANY specs on this cam and you can physically feel the "corners" of the cam lobes. very poor machining!!! but very typical of his poor quality, ZERO quality control parts) and the wrong piston he supplied the valves were hitting the piston crown.
Not to mention the rocker arm was hitting the spring, also the valve guide was misaligned causing the tappet to push against the valve keeper/collet!
There was not protruding valve tip for the tappet to push against either! The keepers were unsuitable along with rocker arm, not to mention one guide had a bigger Outside Diameter than the other....so the spring seat washer needed machining to enlarge the hole.....More custom parts needed to be found/machined.
So much for plug and play, More like plug and pray!
Anyway got a new (better quality and thicker IMO) piston, reliefs machined out to suit the big valves and yet another mock up, rotate engine over by hand, then by the starter motor, strip down and check. All good. Time to reassemble again!
Tried to start the engine with the big cam, engine was struggling to crank over, due to the extreme lift of the cam and the decompression lever was not working enough. When the engine did manage to start it was "running like a dog" Basically very rough. So put the factory cam back in.
Lucky Luc cancelled his order of his big valve head. I had shown him the head and we both agreed it was very poorly done (in other words crap) Luc can explain further in technical detail what he will be doing to a new factory cyl head it along with pictures I'm sure
(Love the drawings mate!!)
The thing is the owner of the automotivesparepartsshop Haryono, had assured me via emails, yahoo chat messages that this kit was indeed "Plug and Play" Just have to unbolt and bolt on new parts....He forgot to mention the head gets shipped ONLY with a bare head and 2 valves. No cam, No rockers, No fasteners, No tappets, No bearings, No cradle, No spring seats, No valve stem guides seals, No valve collets/keepers to suit the "new" valves etc...
He also reassures me his "customers" have NO PROBLEMS with their engines. So I'm guessing if his customers went to mechanics to get their engines assembled they would assume valves hitting pistons and 13.5:1 CR is perfectly ok on pump fuel and aircooled cylinder
Some people must like riding on hand grenades!
When I questioned him about the missing parts to which he replied Ohh you need to use your existing valve train parts from your head to complete it....
That my friends just about sums Hary's attitude up. Couldn't give a damn about his junk products or his reputation, not to mention asking me for DATA on HIS products that HE made!
After a few hundred Km's I may open the engine up and have a inspection of the parts inside. See if there are any unusual wear marks and check the hone of the cyl, see if the rings did bed in or just glaze over.
My mechanic is also working on developing a oil cooler for the FZ bikes. I'll keep you guys posted on that as he develops it
Last edited by Mad Mik; 05-05-2012, 12:48 PM.2013 Ducati M795 with a few mods in here http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/superbik...95-owners.html
Want to talk about modding your FZ? http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/motorcyc...tech-talk.html
My videos http://www.youtube.com/user/FZSMik/videos
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Service Report
Hi All,
finally managed to hit the 8th service. So here are the details:
PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE & GENERAL SERVICING
Service Centre: Kamla Yamaha, Lower Parel, Mumbai
Odo Reading: 19,395 kms
Air Filter Replaced: Rs. 259/-
Engine Oil: Motul 300V
15W 50 Double ester FS Oil: Rs. 950/-
Oil Filter: Rs. 50/-
Clutch Cable Assembly: Rs. 89/-
Brake Oil Replaced: Rs. 55/-
Swing Arm Rubber Cush Damper: Rs. 76/-
Spark Plug(Stock): Rs. 105/-
Servicing: Rs. 300/-
Labour Charges: Rs. 350/-
Grand Total: Rs. 2,234/-
The whole swing arm was disassembled and greased, the coneset greased. Brake oil bled and refilled with new. All switchgears and all other parts oiled and greased. I have to rate Kamla Yamaha as one of the best service centres ever. They finished everything, including washing my bike in just 2 hours flat!! and i was out. Highly professional and highly recommended!!
For Noobs: Preventive maintenance is a must. After consulting with Abhimanyu31, i had decided to go ahead with the whole schedule and as it turns out my ride's swing arm's cush dampers had gone bust thanks to the unforgiving coastal weather conditions. Regardless, these are some of the critical parts to be serviced when hitting 20k kms. I believe, it has been mentioned in the manual as well. But i don't think most of the riders have done it. Would highly recommend anyone hitting 20,000 kms getting in done asap.
Regarding Motul FS oil; I did around 5, 400 kms on it and my ride still felt as new. May be one can push it till 8,000 kms but just to be on the safer side i decided to change it. I am in love with its performance. Post servicing, i just need to touch my gear shifter and it will automatically engage the gear... seamless and smooth. Highly recommended from my end.
My bike's front and rear brake pads are still going strong and should last me atleast another 5-6,000 kms which is unbelievable. I am attaching some of the pics of the brake pads, the whole disassembly and the swing arm parts.
CheersA quote by a toilet, " use me well, keep me clean, i would never tell anybody whatever i have seen.." :P
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Originally posted by SpeedyKol View Post@ shv18: That's some serious rust on the FFE..why don't u paint it? Nearing 2000km on the odo,when should I start using Motul 300v?
Has the center stand and brake lever issues been fixed by Joel in next-gen FFEs?
That is not exactly major rust but more of decolouring of the pipe due to excessive heat and the plating agent reacting to it. I will get the whole pipe re-plated just before the monsoons. Right now i am just enjoying it too much to part away from it for a week... I believe Joel has sorted it out with his next gen FFEs, both rust and stand hiting issue(Although it never bothered me at all). Even after that, if you experience some rusting, which i feel you are bound to thanks to incessant rains and muck weather in Kolkatta, you can easily get it plated for under 400 bucks. The only thing that you will have to refill is the glass wool after every 7-8000 kms. costs 20 bucks. available across shops which deal with ac and fridge repairs.
CheersLast edited by shv18; 05-05-2012, 07:11 PM.A quote by a toilet, " use me well, keep me clean, i would never tell anybody whatever i have seen.." :P
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Air Filter for fz
Hi Guys. I am planning to get only the air filter changed by next week after I complete my 1st svc. Should I get it changed from Joel or should I get a k&n.


And is it possible to replace the speedo light to white color.

Came across a fz in you tube with white back lit speedo ...FZ 16 personalizada - YouTube
Replies pls...Last edited by silversss; 05-05-2012, 06:16 PM.
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Yamaha svc
Hi... 'd been to Bangalore wheels for my fz's first svc... reached there by 9.. but, was told they would not take the bike for svc as they would take only 20bikes in a day for service
When I told I'd already completed 1k kms, they told me as I've not yet completed 30days, they can adjust and asked me to get the bike back on monday morning by 7:30..
Guys let me know if this is the same across all svc centers in Bangalore.
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Originally posted by Mad Mik View PostYes, I was lucky my mechanic knows what he's doing. He also let me "play" in his workshop for the time it took to build.
We did "mock up" builds with Plasticine on the piston to see if there was any touching/kissing of the valve/piston assembly. Turns out with the "wild crazy mystery grind cam" (Hary couldn't give me ANY specs on this cam and you can physically feel the "corners" of the cam lobes. very poor machining!!! but very typical of his poor quality, ZERO quality control parts) and the wrong piston he supplied the valves were hitting the piston crown.
Not to mention the rocker arm was hitting the spring, also the valve guide was misaligned causing the tappet to push against the valve keeper/collet!
There was not protruding valve tip for the tappet to push against either! The keepers were unsuitable along with rocker arm, not to mention one guide had a bigger Outside Diameter than the other....so the spring seat washer needed machining to enlarge the hole.....More custom parts needed to be found/machined.
So much for plug and play, More like plug and pray!
Anyway got a new (better quality and thicker IMO) piston, reliefs machined out to suit the big valves and yet another mock up, rotate engine over by hand, then by the starter motor, strip down and check. All good. Time to reassemble again!
Tried to start the engine with the big cam, engine was struggling to crank over, due to the extreme lift of the cam and the decompression lever was not working enough. When the engine did manage to start it was "running like a dog" Basically very rough. So put the factory cam back in.
Lucky Luc cancelled his order of his big valve head. I had shown him the head and we both agreed it was very poorly done (in other words crap) Luc can explain further in technical detail what he will be doing to a new factory cyl head it along with pictures I'm sure
(Love the drawings mate!!)
The thing is the owner of the automotivesparepartsshop Haryono, had assured me via emails, yahoo chat messages that this kit was indeed "Plug and Play" Just have to unbolt and bolt on new parts....He forgot to mention the head gets shipped ONLY with a bare head and 2 valves. No cam, No rockers, No fasteners, No tappets, No bearings, No cradle, No spring seats, No valve stem guides seals, No valve collets/keepers to suit the "new" valves etc...
He also reassures me his "customers" have NO PROBLEMS with their engines. So I'm guessing if his customers went to mechanics to get their engines assembled they would assume valves hitting pistons and 13.5:1 CR is perfectly ok on pump fuel and aircooled cylinder
Some people must like riding on hand grenades!
When I questioned him about the missing parts to which he replied Ohh you need to use your existing valve train parts from your head to complete it....
That my friends just about sums Hary's attitude up. Couldn't give a damn about his junk products or his reputation, not to mention asking me for DATA on HIS products that HE made!
After a few hundred Km's I may open the engine up and have a inspection of the parts inside. See if there are any unusual wear marks and check the hone of the cyl, see if the rings did bed in or just glaze over.
My mechanic is also working on developing a oil cooler for the FZ bikes. I'll keep you guys posted on that as he develops it
Well that sucks!! Joel's parts are quite easy to install so long as the mechanic has the brains and experience of rebuilding engines. Here in India, we do have two options, get your whole ride sent to the dark arts master himself or if not atleast, in Mumbai City we do have an official mechanic who does the whole installation in an hour and you can be out with your ride. The only exception will be that the head will have to be shipped to Joel for porting or you can request him to purchase one from his end and ship it along with the other power up parts. 4 of my friends have fully souped up rides courtesy Race Concepts and they all are happy with the simplicity of installation and reliability of the same...
Cheers,Last edited by shv18; 05-05-2012, 06:52 PM.A quote by a toilet, " use me well, keep me clean, i would never tell anybody whatever i have seen.." :P
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