Just posted it a few pages back.. Yes, You can fill Nitrogen. I have. Two months done now and no problems



As per the can (& HMSI), Honda throttle 10W30 is full synthetic.. not semi..

Hero honda has a 10W30 mineral oil. Used on some of their bikes. And costs around Rs.200 per litre. But i would advice you replace it with the same Honda Throttle.. if too keen on using mineral oil, drain the current Oil now & store it in clean container. Flush the engine with proper guidance. Use the oil you want & then can use the stored Oil later. Just an opinion. I was thinking to do so.. But IMO, do flush the engine if changing the type of Oil i.e Synthetic to mineral and vice versa..

Sir, I would like advise NOT to flush the engine for changing the oil type, strongly. Engine flushing products contain high additives that could damage the engine oil seals and cause problems. The residue of mineral oil over the period of time acts like a sealant on the oil seals and bind them. After engine flush there are chances of oil leaks, again it is case to case.

This is not a general practice on two wheeler engines but for cars. It is ok to drain the existing oil and fill the desired.

Maybe that would also do....but i had rather pay them after having a look at the bike....

Talk to them and see if you are allowed to pay after seeing the bike....tell them you will pay the remaining amount on the spot after checking the bike....
Else atleast check it before RTO registration...that is a MUST.....

Once its registered there's nothing you can do about it.....
do tell us about your conversation with the showroom ppl..

cheers.....

Thanks for correcting me. i suggested so as i practiced flushing in all my bikes i had. generally used diesel in my yamaha two stokes.. I may be wrong though..
But, even for my dad's pulsar180, the SVC guys recommended flushing on every alternate oil change or else said would void the warranty if not done So, i believed it may be a good practice..

Any Safer way to flush atleast at first Oil change (as it has fine particles as they say)?? Is it advisable?


P.S: i aint no "Sir"..

Oh! If we are to believe what SVC guys says then you will not find 'Help' section on this forum! Well, the truth is always scattered around.

This is the first time I'm hearing SVC warning about the warranty if flushing is not done, interesting! . That also tends me to ask another question here, when the topic of engine flushing arise, does SVC recommend oil other than mineral in their showroom? Sorry, I'm not aware of Bajaj world.
I would think, they are taking people for ride by doing engine flushing. Kindly do not carry on engine flushing as it may contain detergent agent that would harm/react the seals present inside the engine.

Do not do engine flush on new vehicles AT ALL. If it is a new vehicle then I would suggest to change the oil soon it reached 500 kms, no matter what manual says. During the initial run, Mineral oil is recommended because it is good for moving parts inside the engine to mate well. During the process metal parts rubbed with each other would leave some amount of metal pieces due to friction and it is collected in the oil.
It's not a good idea to run the bike with metal pieces floating in the oil.

The oil which you'll drain after 500 kms will have all the small shimmering metal pieces when you drain them out. It's ok to drain whatever oil come out and do not flush the entire oil from the engine and it is not advised.
Change the oil (mineral) running for next service interval. My humble request is that till about 6000 kms use Mineral oil and change them every 2000 kms riding sane. Else would suggest to check after 1000 kms and change if the oil color turns brown. Over the period of 2nd or 3rd oil change all those metal pieces would have got out.

No SS or FS during the run-in. Why? The reason is, the SS/FS oil contains additives and it creates a thin layer on the engine wall thus become glazed.

You may change to SS or FS oil after 6000 kms if interested.

I have shared what I've been following. However, all said, it's left to individual to decide.

^Thanks for the good explanation Sriram..
As it strucked my chords to search about flushing now, after googling, most say flushing is not required.. But not even harmful.. I used diesel in my yamahas.. And never faced any leaks or problems.. But then i am no expert to conclude..

Well, the bajaj guys did the flushing for almost two years @ alternate services(1year 1year AMC).. And charged my dad rs.250 for it everytime..

My cbr has clocked 2500kms now.. No flushing done.. But the oil that was replaced was full synthetic @1200kms.. I agreed to it as all HMSI officials said that synthetic oil was factory filled in CBR and so you can use the same in 1st service.. I was so very confused about it.. Should we change back to mineral for a few thousand kms?? i am really waiting for a logical, reasonable explanation about this from anyone since a month.. I was convinced to keep running the synthetic oil.. But your explanation again tickled my mind..

Thanks for the details. As I am planning to switch to mineral oil now, I hope flushing the engine with the same mineral oil to be used won't make any problem. Am I right?

Congrats for your new ride dude.... enjoy the riding...

WHAAAT???

Tks.

Bet you beer to dollar, it is SEMI SYNTH for sure.
If you're switching to Motul (like me ), then, I've been adviced for Motul 3100 Gold 15W-50; and that was after I purchased 3000 10W-30

@Metal_Maniac - Sriram is right; ask those jokers to give it in writing or ask them to take a jump. Ask them who's the HMSI's contact w.r.t the dealer for C250R for your locality & demand for his number to get this question clarified. By the time you ask this question, they'll start backing off.

Sometime back I remember someone saying on this thread that C250R decelerates quickly unlike R15 or ZMA. Can't recall though where it is now.

If you're experiencing anything like above, pls contact your ASC. Reason being that, my old engine was decelerating much faster & the tacho used to fall much faster from 5/6K RPMs; However, my replaced engine is not only smoother & the taco falls slower & the earlier issue wasn't noticed.

There's nothing to panic, but, better to get it checked.

@ Aargee look at the good times ahead, I know its easier to say sitting here for me.
Even I read somewhere in the thread that CBR decelerates. What could be the reason?

Is it advisable to pay before seeing the bike as the dealer has asked me to do so, delievery after 15 days(next lot) at BU Bhandari(Pune)
Please suggest

I experimented for around four years in my ZMA and Dazzler and other friends' bikes. The Honda engine oil made by Idemitsu is excellent. Motul mineral oil degraded faster than Honda engine oil in Honda engines. Bike runs smoother with Honda Idemitsu oil.

Also, a synthetic oil is always better than any mineral oil (for the engine). Sometimes good and better are referred with maintenance cost of the oil. For my Dazzler, I would prefer a mineral oil at 200 bucks to synthetic oil at 800 bucks.

Like I said before, nothing to panic. Its only an info. Any bike would decelerate if the throttle is closed. You might've to panic if it doesn't happen The question is how quickly is decelerates, which is quite difficult to explain over the forum. But, having experienced both the types of engines, I could certainly find the difference. Just ensure that the bike you take, the engine should be smooth enough. When you rev, the tacho should go up linear & come down linear & during that time, the engine should be smooth.

You got no choice. But 15 days is too much, ask them to justify why they need 15 days as the entire RTO formalities can be completed in a day. Give or take 3-5 working days, provided, C250R is not endorsed at RTO. Nothing more than that.

Saar...we're talking about CBR 250R!!!

I knew saar!! Just quoted to explain the relativity of good and better.

Dazzler or a 250R or any engine requires an engine oil sir. Its common!!

Lol!!! I was just expecting this

Last evening I went ahead & got a Motul 3000 10W-30 for C250R assuming it would be a good match. But I was surprised when another friend of mine & a fellow C250R owner, who's not only EDUCATED in automobile engineering, but also bike fanatic, suggested going for 3100 15W-50 Gold. Its quite hard to explain the tech & practical facts that he put across over the phone in the forum, otherwise, I would've happily shared them, especially for you.

He gave another shock saying that would be ideal to use on my Activa.

Point - Things are not as common as we think.