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Pulsar 200 NS Owners Review and Experiences
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Asked because this seems to be happening all over. My top left side bolt was broken, half of which was stuck in the thread itself (this all happened while I was riding to office in the morning). I took it to the ASC and they had it fixed, and now after 70km ride, again the bolts have somehow come loose. I did not hit anything or anyone and noone even dares to touch my bike, so this must be a defect.
Warm up your engine for about 15 min( go for a nice ride), then set the idling for just below 1.5k rpm. If you feel some cold start problems, dont be too lazy to use the choke (it is there for that purpose).Originally posted by amit_mb View PostLast edited by surampudijagadeesh; 10-24-2012, 09:56 PM.BreaklessBiker
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Originally posted by amit_mb View PostWanted to ask you two questions
1)When i start the bike and accelerate it(to heat the engine), the engine turns off.
2) There are vibrations in the bike...
The bike has clocked 1500 on odo and completed its first service...RahulDa'Originally posted by Rahulbarik View Postmaybe good for the bike but not good for my hand... I have two swollen fingers on my left hand because of the clutch....so i avoid changing gears much...i cant fold my fingers now its paining to badly... @myth: yup it makes up on a freeway...i just love taking it to bypass...
I am looking for that answer too....why is the clutch side lever so far as compared to the brake side lever??? makes life difficult in traffic...and well ...not changing gears will lead to stress on the clutch and pressure plates, mileage will drop, connecting rod will also take a beating. I am just wondering what will happen if we were to wear those thick winter gloves and ride the NS!!! Boss, this bike is gonna make our left forearms and knuckles strong...what say??
Nooooo!!! You fed a baby bottled milk instead of breast milk!!! (ok just dramatizing) but yes do make it a point to fill in premium. Congrats and welcome to the club!!Originally posted by tejas1509 View Postfinally... a proud owner of NS ... yay !!!
i dont think i can follow run in guidelines... post 3k RPM the bike flies....
i did a mistake... put normal fuel instead of speed and that to arnd 6ltrs...
next time se premium fuel for my premium bike...
adding one pic... rest when i go to seaface ..[ATTACH=CONFIG]84037[/ATTACH]Last edited by A5H15H; 10-24-2012, 10:51 PM.Two legs and Two wheels. Add two more and they become crutches and cars.
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Now that is really worrying, have been hearing more of this incident lately. Doesn't the bolts have nuts to hold them in position , to stop them from turning around and loosening up on their own, or if its the low quality of the bolt, get some good quality one from automobile parts spare shops and get it fitted.
An another suggestion friends, don't know how many will be ready, get a good quality proper size nut and bolt and after fastening it to correct torque, get it spot welded, i mean the the part where the bot and nut meets.This way it can assure that it wont fall off, and its the crash guard, you wont be fiddling with that every now and then or remove it too. Wouldnt that be feasible. ?
Originally posted by Speedshift View Postyup... mine top one on the left and bottom one one the right side is gone....
top one broke down from the head and the bottom one vanished altogehther


Mate, i don't think filling normal petrol causes any problem for the NS, the permium petrol is just normal petrol with additives to boost octane level, it not actually high octane petrol. So it really just a luxury thing.
But hey, its your bike, your money, so your choice.
Congrats on the bike BTW, Happy Riding. :-)
Originally posted by tejas1509 View Postfinally... a proud owner of NS ... yay !!!
i dont think i can follow run in guidelines... post 3k RPM the bike flies....
i did a mistake... put normal fuel instead of speed and that to arnd 6ltrs...
next time se premium fuel for my premium bike...
adding one pic... rest when i go to seaface ..[ATTACH=CONFIG]84037[/ATTACH]
Cheers
Ride Safe
krishna--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Run-in Procedure | Power Loss Solutions | Riding Gears 101 | Biking Brotherhood
Pulsar 220F|2013 Honda CBR250R|KTM Duke390|Yamaha R3|Yamaha R1|Triumph Tiger XRX
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I dont think it is a manufacturing defect. It must be the problem with poor pdi and improper tightening of the bolts. One thing I observed was even when one of the bolt was broken, the crashguard vibrated only at around 5000-6000 rpm and made a horrible noise. before and post that rpm there was no sound. So, we can conclude that the breaking of the loose bolt was due to resonance, that too for extended time, as I travel a lot.Originally posted by krish2778 View PostNow that is really worrying, have been hearing more of this incident lately. Doesn't the bolts have nuts to hold them in position , to stop them from turning around and loosening up on their own, or if its the low quality of the bolt, get some good quality one from automobile parts spare shops and get it fitted.
An another suggestion friends, don't know how many will be ready, get a good quality proper size nut and bolt and after fastening it to correct torque, get it spot welded, i mean the the part where the bot and nut meets.This way it can assure that it wont fall off, and its the crash guard, you wont be fiddling with that every now and then or remove it too. Wouldnt that be feasible. ?
Cheers
Ride Safe
krishna
Welding the nut and bolt is a bad idea, because if there be need of reaching parts of the engine, which might require the crash guard to be removed, what then. It will be too messy and not worth the effort.Last edited by surampudijagadeesh; 10-24-2012, 11:15 PM.BreaklessBiker
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i did not mean a full fledged welding, this is one situation where words can be confusing, i just meant, a spot welding, just something to stick the nut and bolt from any play.
I only suggested it because the only reason we might remove a crash guard if you really crashed and need to replace it, or that's what i thought.
Cheers Mate
Ride Safe
Krishna
Originally posted by surampudijagadeesh View PostI dont think it is a manufacturing defect. It must be the problem with poor pdi and improper tightening of the bolts. One thing I observed was even when one of the bolt was broken, the crashguard vibrated only at around 5000-6000 rpm and made a horrible noise. before and post that rpm there was no sound. So, we can conclude that the breaking of the loose bolt was due to resonance, that too for extended time, as I travel a lot.
Welding the nut and bolt is a bad idea, because if there be need of reaching parts of the engine, which might require the crash guard to be removed, what then. It will be too messy and not worth the effort.--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Run-in Procedure | Power Loss Solutions | Riding Gears 101 | Biking Brotherhood
Pulsar 220F|2013 Honda CBR250R|KTM Duke390|Yamaha R3|Yamaha R1|Triumph Tiger XRX
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Hi guys, have got a minor problem with the brakes, there is a squeaking sound from the front disc. However the sound comes only in the beginning and gets rectified after some half kilometer of riding.
anyone having the same problem? any solutions ?
thanks.
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Sorry, did not read it properly. But, there is no nut and bolt, it is just a bolt which directly fits on to the threads on the frame.Originally posted by krish2778 View Posti did not mean a full fledged welding, this is one situation where words can be confusing, i just meant, a spot welding, just something to stick the nut and bolt from any play.
I only suggested it because the only reason we might remove a crash guard if you really crashed and need to replace it, or that's what i thought.
Cheers Mate
Ride Safe
KrishnaBreaklessBiker
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Yes, that's why i mentioned in my first post, to change the bolts that come with the Stock one and get better quality nut and also a suitable size bolt. Bolts should allow the nuts from rolling around due to the engine vibrations if that's causing the nuts to fall off.
And the spot welding part was just a extra suggestion actually.
Cheers Mate
Ride Safe
Krishna
Originally posted by surampudijagadeesh View PostSorry, did not read it properly. But, there is no nut and bolt, it is just a bolt which directly fits on to the threads on the frame.--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Run-in Procedure | Power Loss Solutions | Riding Gears 101 | Biking Brotherhood
Pulsar 220F|2013 Honda CBR250R|KTM Duke390|Yamaha R3|Yamaha R1|Triumph Tiger XRX
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Re: Pulsar 200 NS
I am on the verge of finishing my run in period. Its more than 1900 on odo. After 1st service bike did felt lot smooth for couple of days but now again a bit vibrations and hard gear shifting is really a sad part for a flagship bike. Anyways can any one tell me after run in period on at which speed i should change my gear frm 5th to 6th. Because now above 45kmph i change to 6th as i feel the need of it.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2Last edited by aniketpassion; 10-25-2012, 12:47 AM.
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Finally got my long awaited NS! Day 1 and 145km on ODO.
Pics, films, videos all coming very soon!
Mayank Bhattacharya | Film Maker | Photographer | Pilot | Biker
Personal Website - http://dstentertainment.in/
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Firstly, wishing SHUBHO BIJOYA to all of you and your NS..
Now today being the last day of puja, I got time to take my DESTINY for some pandal hopping. It was fun, and tried to stretch her to some good speeds.
But whenever I took her to post 7.5 - 8K RPM, in 4th and 5th gear, there were bad vivbrations on the Handle. I mean it was so bad that I could'nt get any more Confidence to take it any higher. (That being Said, I had a Heavy pillion along with me, and was running on reserve)
So can anyone confirm whether it's normal or not??
@Myth - Let me know when you will be going to SVC. I will also go, as the Air-filter cleaning is still due.
@AniketPassion - Rather than concentrating On Changing gears at a particular Speed, try changing gears at a particular RPM range. Changing at 4-5 K range for a smooth and Economical run seems appropriate.sigpicRelationships change, evolve, and it goes deep.
Only thing I can say - "The storm is coming"
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