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Suzuki GS150R
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For me vision at night is more important than the 1400/- battery.....
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Thats true,Originally posted by Taurean View PostBut isn't battery under warranty?? and DC conversion has impacts on battery??
this is another debatable topic dude,
certain electrical components aren't covered under warranty [wires, bulbs etc..]
but components such as RR units are replaced by suzuki on my bike
my bike came with BA RR unit and it was upgraded by suzuki on my request to CA RR unit under warranty at free of cost.Sarcasm is my automatic response to stupidity
Currently Using Gusto |Enfield Bullet 500 | Ecosport Titanium+ Diesel
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For dc conversion the rr unit is changed with the ape rr...so you can always switch back to original if in case something goes wrong....Originally posted by MSN1 View PostThats true,
this is another debatable topic dude,
certain electrical components aren't covered under warranty [wires, bulbs etc..]
but components such as RR units are replaced by suzuki on my bike
my bike came with BA RR unit and it was upgraded by suzuki on my request to CA RR unit under warranty at free of cost.
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Vishnu , Maestro, Punarvasu and to all :::
Have rewinded the stator coil & moved the ground lug to the next spare space to directly tap a wire without running the copper wire to APE RR...
Please have a look at it and give your feedback & suggestions...
It's a spare coil which I bought for rewinding & I'm going to fix it to my bike..

Last edited by gmagesh14; 12-15-2011, 11:06 PM.
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Neat winding. Take the grounding end out through the bush without connecting it to the leg for grounding and connect it to the RR. Solder the other end to the next leg which is not grounded together with the black wire to the RR.Originally posted by gmagesh14 View PostVishnu , Maestro, Punarvasu and to all :::
Have rewinded the stator coil & moved the ground lug to the next spare space to directly tap a wire without running the copper wire to APE RR...
Please have a look at it and give your feedback & suggestions...
It's a spare coil which I bought for rewinding & I'm going to fix it to my bike.
As the winding is neat and tight, varnishing is not essential.
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Thanks Punarvasu...Originally posted by punarvasu View PostNeat winding. Take the grounding end out through the bush without connecting it to the leg for grounding and connect it to the RR. Solder the other end to the next leg which is not grounded together with the black wire to the RR.
As the winding is neat and tight, varnishing is not essential.
Winding details :::: 4layers in each pole, 8turns in 1st later and 7 turns in remaining 3layers in all the poles.... So totallly 29turns in each pole...
Now what's the max load I'could pull out from it?
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Instead of taking the copper wire out to APE RR. I'd made a small modification in the coil itself by changing the grounding leg position from point no.2 to point no.3 where it'll not be grounded to the surface. So it'll act as a separate terminal.Originally posted by punarvasu View PostTake the grounding end out through the bush without connecting it to the leg for grounding and connect it to the RR.

Last edited by gmagesh14; 12-15-2011, 11:53 PM.
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Thats some neat winding.....you must be having so much patience......
Also punarvasu's comments are enough.....I was also saying the same.....
You can have anywhere between 0watt to 100watt.....but don't use it to full limit as you need some of it for running other electricals too.....
Regarding the new pic.....you will still need to take a wire out of the terminal so as to connect it to ape rr.....also take a good quality wire considering the amount of wattage generated....the stock ones cannot take the load.....Last edited by Maestro; 12-15-2011, 11:56 PM.
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Thanks Maestro bhai...Originally posted by Maestro View PostThats some neat winding.....you must be having so much patience......
Also punarvasu's comments are enough.....I was also saying the same.....
You can have anywhere between 0watt to 100watt.....but don't use it to full limit as you need some of it for running other electricals too.....
Started at 8pm today and completed at 10pm... Took a break for dinner and some snaps in b/w...
Roughly it took 1.45hrs for removing the stock winding and rewinding to the new...
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Yes Maestro .,I want to run a wire instead of taking the Copper wire out... for that purpose only I moved the position of that leg..Originally posted by Maestro View PostRegarding the new pic.....you will still need to take a wire out of the terminal so as to connect it to ape rr.....also take a good quality wire considering the amount of wattage generated....the stock ones cannot take the load.....
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Cool.....but just make sure you position the wire well....so as not to block any movements Inside......also put a coat on copper...just to be on a safer side.....Originally posted by gmagesh14 View PostYes Maestro .,I want to run a wire instead of taking the Copper wire out... for that purpose only I moved the position of that leg..
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How can it be changed? More than that, I doubt whether the turns are enough to produce sufficient voltage. What is the gauge of wire you used for winding?Originally posted by gmagesh14 View PostInstead of taking the copper wire out to APE RR. I'd made a small modification in the coil itself by changing the grounding leg position from point no.2 to point no.3 where it'll not be grounded to the surface. So it'll act as a separate terminal.
There is a small mistake with the poles you have started and finished. But I think it is not a serious problem.
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