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**psr** · 11-05-2011, 10:41 PM

Originally posted by Dan_GP View Post

Thank you very much Sir, I thought I was running a little lean coz engine heats up more than it should and returning a whooping milage close to 50kmpl in long tours

Now I realized that I'm wrong..

I usually pump petrol on weekends, and the petrol station is very relible and I don't think petrol i old coz the bunk filled with vehicles 24 hours a day

And I noticed something, could be a dumb thing too, does ZMR engine sounds more tham other HH engines, like CBZ/Hunk, coz I feel ny ZMR engine noise is so much, even my friends' P220 is silent than mine.. Is this noise a common thing??

I hope you have not carried out any modifications in the Air Fuel intake or elsewhere.Change engine oil every 2,000 Kms..how old in Kms is your present engine oil ?...and which grade ?
Sane and highway riding at 80 to 90 Kmph have returned 48 to 50 Kms per liter in ZMR...The heating problem is due to the closed Fairing and thinner engine oil...I have a 2007 ZMA-R done 23 K Kms which was heating up...I removed the lower fairing and switched to Gulf Pride 4T plus 20w40 oil...The bike is running much cooler now. A 10w30 will allow you to rev faster but engine will heat very much compared to JASO MA2 20w40 oil.
The ZMR and ZMA both have silent engines...If you have noisy engine take it to SVC and get the tappet checked and adjusted..as also the timing Chain and adjuster...Insist with the Engineer at SVC to get the job done properly.

**psr** · 11-05-2011, 10:50 PM

Originally posted by Above_All View Post

When i turn on the key all speedo things are working good , as i have around 6 liter petrol the fuel indicator shows 3/4 bars but as i start riding bike it starts blinking with only 1 bar as it indicate very low fuel , upon stopping same thing , but if i turn off the key & then turn on again it shows 3/4 bars , but as soon as riding starts same thing happens .Any guesses what the problem is ?

Svc guys saying might be problem in fuel guage , so need to check its calibration ( don't know how they gonna check or correct ) they will be doing it in next week . So if the guage is faulty , is they will replace it only or the whole tank

If only guage then is there any solution like 3 bond or other used to avoid petrol leaks from guage & tank joint

In bikes with petrol gauge, the sensor is a nichrome wire variable resistance ,sitting inside the petrol tank IN PETROL...so to avoid sparking during float actuation,only 1.5 Volts at low current will be allowed through this sensor.The petrol we get from the Bunk contains water /moisture which over a period of time causes corrosion on the nichrome resistence leading to error in reading.
To offset this add 1.5ml of Castrol 2 T per liter of petrol for about 5 to 6 liters of petrol and see.No harm will happen to engine or any part since the quantity of 2T is very small.

**Above_All** · 11-05-2011, 11:49 PM

Originally posted by psr View Post

In bikes with petrol gauge, the sensor is a nichrome wire variable resistance ,sitting inside the petrol tank IN PETROL...so to avoid sparking during float actuation,only 1.5 Volts at low current will be allowed through this sensor.The petrol we get from the Bunk contains water /moisture which over a period of time causes corrosion on the nichrome resistence leading to error in reading.
To offset this add 1.5ml of Castrol 2 T per liter of petrol for about 5 to 6 liters of petrol and see.No harm will happen to engine or any part since the quantity of 2T is very small.

Ok sir will add 2T oil , i seen some people's adding it in tanks when they fill it completely . But i think it needed in 2 stroke bikes so i not going for it .
Or is it good to spary WD40 after emptying the tank.

And if it is completely faulty , then while replacing is special care needs to be taken like adding 3bond or similar .

**vvijkumar** · 11-06-2011, 09:35 AM

Originally posted by MotionFreak View Post

satyajitrc...Nice pic ur karizma saying "I 'am' BOSS!!"

**psr** · 11-06-2011, 12:19 PM

Originally posted by Above_All View Post

Ok sir will add 2T oil , i seen some people's adding it in tanks when they fill it completely . But i think it needed in 2 stroke bikes so i not going for it .
Or is it good to spary WD40 after emptying the tank.

And if it is completely faulty , then while replacing is special care needs to be taken like adding 3bond or similar .

The quantity of 2T oil is very small at 1.5 to 2 ml per liter of petrol,just to prevent rusting of sensor and trying to prevent loose contact.If it is to be used regularly then it is 1 ml only per liter of petrol.In case the sensor float assembly is getting replaced , there will be a new gasket in the new piece mounting flange,which will take care of the sealing.So no need for Three Bond.

**Above_All** · 11-06-2011, 12:33 PM

Originally posted by psr View Post

The quantity of 2T oil is very small at 1.5 to 2 ml per liter of petrol,just to prevent rusting of sensor and trying to prevent loose contact.If it is to be used regularly then it is 1 ml only per liter of petrol.In case the sensor float assembly is getting replaced , there will be a new gasket in the new piece mounting flange,which will take care of the sealing.So no need for Three Bond.

Thank you for the reply sir , will first let the ASC peoples do their job , if they replaced then fine , if not then will add 2T oil .

**Dan_GP** · 11-06-2011, 05:32 PM

Originally posted by psr View Post

I hope you have not carried out any modifications in the Air Fuel intake or elsewhere.Change engine oil every 2,000 Kms..how old in Kms is your present engine oil ?...and which grade ?
Sane and highway riding at 80 to 90 Kmph have returned 48 to 50 Kms per liter in ZMR...The heating problem is due to the closed Fairing and thinner engine oil...I have a 2007 ZMA-R done 23 K Kms which was heating up...I removed the lower fairing and switched to Gulf Pride 4T plus 20w40 oil...The bike is running much cooler now. A 10w30 will allow you to rev faster but engine will heat very much compared to JASO MA2 20w40 oil.
The ZMR and ZMA both have silent engines...If you have noisy engine take it to SVC and get the tappet checked and adjusted..as also the timing Chain and adjuster...Insist with the Engineer at SVC to get the job done properly.

Yep, everything is stock apart from spark plug which is NGK Iridium. My ZMR is now close to 9000kms almost 3 months from purchase.

I use 20W40 mineral (Castrol) from say 3000kms, I change it during the service which I do once in every 2000kms . Current oil is just 1000kms old..

Yep, engine is much noisier, I was going to ask the service to adjust tappets and timing change but decided not to coz I saw they were adjusting tappets in other bikes in a pathetic way, mostly using their hands, loke they were doing it without knowledge.. What happens if they tight tappets more than required?? And how they adjust timing chain to a proper slackness??

**psr** · 11-06-2011, 05:58 PM

Originally posted by Dan_GP View Post

Yep, everything is stock apart from spark plug which is NGK Iridium. My ZMR is now close to 9000kms almost 3 months from purchase.

I use 20W40 mineral (Castrol) from say 3000kms, I change it during the service which I do once in every 2000kms . Current oil is just 1000kms old..

Yep, engine is much noisier, I was going to ask the service to adjust tappets and timing change but decided not to coz I saw they were adjusting tappets in other bikes in a pathetic way, mostly using their hands, loke they were doing it without knowledge.. What happens if they tight tappets more than required?? And how they adjust timing chain to a proper slackness??

Good to know that your bike is stock......
If the tappets are tightened more than recommended, then under hot condition(read 3 to 4 Kms ride) the valve will be slightly pressed open leading to compression leak..which means bike will loose power ,and start to heat more than normal....may lead to misfire and seizure..
timing chain has an auto adjuster at the side of bore...you can see it as an attachment just above the self motor ,on the bore...some times it gets stuck/damaged and leads to loose chain, making noise like anklets .
Replacement of Timing Chain Tensioner as it is called, is the remedy.

**Dan_GP** · 11-06-2011, 07:14 PM

Originally posted by psr View Post

Good to know that your bike is stock......
If the tappets are tightened more than recommended, then under hot condition(read 3 to 4 Kms ride) the valve will be slightly pressed open leading to compression leak..which means bike will loose power ,and start to heat more than normal....may lead to misfire and seizure..
timing chain has an auto adjuster at the side of bore...you can see it as an attachment just above the self motor ,on the bore...some times it gets stuck/damaged and leads to loose chain, making noise like anklets .
Replacement of Timing Chain Tensioner as it is called, is the remedy.

So how can I know that tappets are not overtightned when service ppl adjust them? I could see that they tight tappets using a spanner and a special tool and they hold tappets by their fingers and try to shake them. If they feel that tappets are OK then they finish the work, thats how they do it thay is why I didn't want them to touch my tappets.. Is that the way ever service do it? I just wonder..

Thank you very much for informations sir.. very valuble..

**psr** · 11-06-2011, 08:24 PM

Originally posted by Dan_GP View Post

So how can I know that tappets are not overtightned when service ppl adjust them? I could see that they tight tappets using a spanner and a special tool and they hold tappets by their fingers and try to shake them. If they feel that tappets are OK then they finish the work, thats how they do it thay is why I didn't want them to touch my tappets.. Is that the way ever service do it? I just wonder..

Thank you very much for informations sir.. very valuble..

The tappets are adjusted with the help of a Feeler Gauge and set to 0.1 for both inlet and exhaust, in ZMA and ZMR.It must be adjusted when the engine is cold.
The feeler gauge is a thin metal strip of correct thickness (0.1)which will be inserted between the valve stem and rocker arm,and the gap set,by adjusting the screw and lock nut.

**Aneesh@4GHz** · 11-06-2011, 10:59 PM

For tappet adjustment,Have a look at the DIY section,We had already made a DIY on ZMA-R's tappet adjustment.

It will help you.

**nripanka kalita** · 11-07-2011, 12:04 AM

rear tyre for my zmr

where i can get pirelli sd tyre in chennai........and what size should i put?

**Aneesh@4GHz** · 11-07-2011, 09:48 AM

Originally posted by nripanka kalita View Post

what size should i put?

Pirelli Sports Demon 110/90-18.

PSD 110/90-18 and Sirac 120/90-18.

**veryhiphop** · 11-07-2011, 10:05 AM

Originally posted by Dan_GP View Post

And I noticed something, could be a dumb thing too, does ZMR engine sounds more tham other HH engines, like CBZ/Hunk, coz I feel ny ZMR engine noise is so much, even my friends' P220 is silent than mine.. Is this noise a common thing??

HM other bikes are more refined as compared to Karizma...mine too facing the noise issue..bike is running smooth now but the engine sound is much higher...tappeds too has been adjusted but problem persists....

Originally posted by Aneesh@4GHz View Post

Pirelli Sports Demon 110/90-18.

PSD 110/90-18 and Sirac 120/90-18.

I inquired about the Pirelli SD...in Karal Bagh (delhi) on Saturday costing me Rs. 3,100...

**siddharth_ZMR** · 11-07-2011, 12:13 PM

Originally posted by veryhiphop View Post

HM other bikes are more refined as compared to Karizma...mine too facing the noise issue..bike is running smooth now but the engine sound is much higher...tappeds too has been adjusted but problem persists....

I inquired about the Pirelli SD...in Karal Bagh (delhi) on Saturday costing me Rs. 3,100...

Pirelli SD is a soft compound tyre... is it recommended for touring kind of purpose where the moment you leave NH ... potholes greet you and sharp edged ditches and road strips welcome you.... will SD be able to bear it or puncture might be a issue...

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