It is a VFM oil and stands upto 2.5 K Kms use...It has been used in touring ZMA s with good results.The Viscosity Index is 172 which means the oil will not become thin at higher temperatures,compared to Mineral, which will have Index of approximately 135. The higher the number the better the oil Viscosity stability at higher temperatures.
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Shell claims it is an oil with synthetic technology..ie., it is SS. Shell ULTRA is the FS.Originally posted by abhi7013 View Post
It is a VFM oil and stands upto 2.5 K Kms use...It has been used in touring ZMA s with good results.The Viscosity Index is 172 which means the oil will not become thin at higher temperatures,compared to Mineral, which will have Index of approximately 135. The higher the number the better the oil Viscosity stability at higher temperatures.
Last edited by psr; 11-23-2012, 02:20 AM.When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.
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Perfectly said by our fellow mates out here...the AX7 is a SS and Shell Ultra is a FS...Originally posted by abhi7013 View PostShell advance AX7 4T.. Really confused with this oil.. FS or SS?? And how is the ride quality? Any oil better than this in quality? From past few weeks breaking my head regarding this.. Please suggest or guide me to a place where its already been discussed guys!
I had a similar confusion in my mind when i had to change from my mineral oil to either SS or FS....had zeroed down to Shell Ax7...but did not find it nearby my residence.....so spoke to a few frens and fellow ZMA and ZMR riders...and they suggested me Motul 7100 10w40 FS....!! Had been to a shop near my place yesterday..did not find the 10W40 but he had the 300v which is 15w50....did not opt for that...and asked him to order the 7100...will be getting it today ...and will put it...!!
Will give you guys a ride report on 3rd december...as im going for a xbhp mumbai G2G on the 2nd for a 250-300 kms ride...where il come to know the performance of the oil......yesterday also got the NGK G Power will install it today...but sadly i wont be riding my bike this weekend as im off for a picnic with frens..and taking my VAN...:-)
I had a doubt but with regards to my oil......this is the first time il be shifting from mineral to a FS....so its the normal procedure that i would have to follow right??? as in empty the mineral oil...through the drain bolt and refill it with the FS....! (Ofcourse after putting the drain bolt back :-P)...And another thing....the recommended oil content is 1.1ltrs....but Motul comes in 1ltr....so is it okay if i put only 1ltr of oil??? Coz this was discussed a few pages earlier...but we could not come to an efficient outcome...:-)Regards-
-K.D.H
www.facebook.com/groups/rrtourers
" the only thing i believe in after the almighty ....is my bike....."
Mumbai Malvan Mumbai
Rajasthan-road-bound-madness
Ride-vansda-gujarat-national-park
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Yes you should be good. After every refill, you should let the oil level settle down (by leaving the bike on center stand for about 30 min untouched) and then measure the oil level on the dipstick. It should be in between the high and low markers. That's all.Originally posted by padfootmoony2006 View Postthe recommended oil content is 1.1ltrs....but Motul comes in 1ltr....so is it okay if i put only 1ltr of oil??? Coz this was discussed a few pages earlier...but we could not come to an efficient outcome...:-)
I have noticed that whenever I fill only 1L, the level comes about exactly in the middle of the dipstick, but then my idiosyncratic mind kicks in and I pour in another 100 ml (measured in a beaker).
End result - 1L is good to go.Got a $5 head? Get a $5 helmet.
Because everyone who passes, isn't a martyr!
Bullet Service Guide CBR 250R Parts Manual Fz16 service manual - https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1-...VFQmJzakk/view
Hero Moto Corp Bikes' Parts RE STD 350 Wiring Diagram (CI) Service Manual - Classic 350/500
ZMR parts - https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-U...it?usp=sharing
P200NS Spares' prices - https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...taGd5R2c#gid=0
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wokay...!! Then its Motul today evening...!!Originally posted by Divya Sharan View PostYes you should be good. After every refill, you should let the oil level settle down (by leaving the bike on center stand for about 30 min untouched) and then measure the oil level on the dipstick. It should be in between the high and low markers. That's all.
I have noticed that whenever I fill only 1L, the level comes about exactly in the middle of the dipstick, but then my idiosyncratic mind kicks in and I pour in another 100 ml (measured in a beaker).
End result - 1L is good to go.
One last Q....average life of a Fully Synthetic filled belly??? As in how many kilometers on a average does the Fully Synthetic last???
And guys i was just scrolling on some threads on ZMR....somewhere i read that the focus of the headlight can be adjusted....i know of the focus being shifted up and down...with that screw on the left of the console....!!
But issue that i have is it focuses more on the left...I have HID's installed...can it be adjusted and brought a little to the right...il post a pic...:
Last edited by padfootmoony2006; 11-23-2012, 01:31 PM.Regards-
-K.D.H
www.facebook.com/groups/rrtourers
" the only thing i believe in after the almighty ....is my bike....."
Mumbai Malvan Mumbai
Rajasthan-road-bound-madness
Ride-vansda-gujarat-national-park
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My replies in bold.Originally posted by padfootmoony2006 View Postwokay...!! Then its Motul today evening...!!
One last Q....average life of a Fully Synthetic filled belly??? As in how many kilometers on a average does the Fully Synthetic last???
3.5k kms with normal city + highways use (at least). I changed mine just after 4.1k.
And guys i was just scrolling on some threads on ZMR....somewhere i read that the focus of the headlight can be adjusted....i know of the focus being shifted up and down...with that screw on the left of the console....!!
But issue that i have is it focuses more on the left...I have HID's installed...can it be adjusted and brought a little to the right...il post a pic...:
Yes, it can be adjusted a little. Are you sure the HID filament (bulb) is pointing straight?
Please PM Above_All and DAN_GP for getting precise details on the matter. They tried it in the past IIRC.Got a $5 head? Get a $5 helmet.
Because everyone who passes, isn't a martyr!
Bullet Service Guide CBR 250R Parts Manual Fz16 service manual - https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1-...VFQmJzakk/view
Hero Moto Corp Bikes' Parts RE STD 350 Wiring Diagram (CI) Service Manual - Classic 350/500
ZMR parts - https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-U...it?usp=sharing
P200NS Spares' prices - https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...taGd5R2c#gid=0
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Okay brother...Yes the HID filament is perfectly aligned...!!Originally posted by Divya Sharan View PostMy replies in bold.Regards-
-K.D.H
www.facebook.com/groups/rrtourers
" the only thing i believe in after the almighty ....is my bike....."
Mumbai Malvan Mumbai
Rajasthan-road-bound-madness
Ride-vansda-gujarat-national-park
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When you remove those black plastics surronding meter console , you will get access to #10 nuts near headlight backside . Check the two #10 nuts below headlight connector one on left & other on right side . For good foucs the left one needs 3.5 turn clockwise from complete open & right one to 3~4 turns clockwise depending upon ones need ( 3 would be good ) .Originally posted by padfootmoony2006 View PostI have HID's installed...can it be adjusted and brought a little to the right...il post a pic...:
You need to adjust only one nut, as one is for height & other for left-right movement ( sorry don't remember which one exactly for left-right movement )
Don't unscrew them completely to get 3.5 turns cause if it unscrewed completely then its really hard to fit again , so best way to just remove those plastics & adjust the nut untill you get right focus .
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guyz today i experienced the famous engine stalling problem but it happens only when engine is cold. any remedy till now???
speed thrills but kills if you dont have skills
Hero Honda PGM-FI service manual:
http://www.ziddu.com/download/157801...EBOOK.pdf.html
A real biker rides with other bikers,
not against them...
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Does it happens aftrr you wash your bike?? cause i faced the same issue but it stays only for a while after i wash her... more like if i get her washed from outside...Originally posted by Mzee_Maverik View Postguyz today i experienced the famous engine stalling problem but it happens only when engine is cold. any remedy till now???
PEACE!!!!\/
RESPECT!!!!
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The engine stall usually happens when one rides in the city at slow speeds on a hot and in congested traffic. Other times I have noticed when you shift from 1st to 2nd or downshift from 3rd to 2nd. This could be bad fuel. But, ZMRs knock on a hot day at slow traffic filled road speeds. There is the knock ( lean mix) an then you can get the stall. Or the 1st to 2nd or downshift from 3 to 2. Happens even in the nights. It is all not regular and can even be rare. But, i list them just to share my limited experience. I havent done any DIY yet, never ripped, done about 5 k in almost a year. In other words, Its almost a new bike, but I realised these are a few characters of this bike, like most wheels.
@Hondarider. its a case of the spark plug cable gettin wet and misfiring and things like that. Realised that when a wanna be shumi on a truck on a rainy day decided to waterwash everything on the otherside of the lane. Simple diagnosis, start, it might with splutter if you hear clicks its a wet plug."Does zebra have stripes?"
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is problem is appearing daily?....Originally posted by Mzee_Maverik View Postguyz today i experienced the famous engine stalling problem but it happens only when engine is cold. any remedy till now???
last time when i face engine stalling mine SVC changed the fuel injector and ECU .....in mine case RPM getting very low from high whenever i start bike and it stop...later on when they fixed all this issues cold start issue appear...i am waiting for HM engineer to visit the SVC and inspect my bike...
psr suggested that due to may be due to tapped are not properly set or intake is taking air...
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A stalling of engine can be due to many factors, and the common possible causes are:
1. Valve clearance set too tight..ie., the clearance is much less than recommended..
2. Valve seat /valve damage leading to leak in compression
3. Injector partially blocked
4. Fuel pump pressure inadequate
5. Debris in fuel line/filters impeding free flow of fuel.
6. Bad Spark plug
7. Bad spark plug Cap.
8. Bad Ignition switch.When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.
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it happened yesterday so i talked to my mech. he suggested there might be dirt in injector so rip the bike once or twice hard and then see, so i did rip her too hard that i touched rev limiter thrice in 3rd gear so today i didnt faced it. lets seeOriginally posted by veryhiphop View Postis problem is appearing daily?....
last time when i face engine stalling mine SVC changed the fuel injector and ECU .....in mine case RPM getting very low from high whenever i start bike and it stop...later on when they fixed all this issues cold start issue appear...i am waiting for HM engineer to visit the SVC and inspect my bike...
psr suggested that due to may be due to tapped are not properly set or intake is taking air...speed thrills but kills if you dont have skills
Hero Honda PGM-FI service manual:
http://www.ziddu.com/download/157801...EBOOK.pdf.html
A real biker rides with other bikers,
not against them...
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Originally posted by Da1AnOnlyHermit View PostThe engine stall usually happens when one rides in the city at slow speeds on a hot and in congested traffic. Other times I have noticed when you shift from 1st to 2nd or downshift from 3rd to 2nd. This could be bad fuel. But, ZMRs knock on a hot day at slow traffic filled road speeds. There is the knock ( lean mix) an then you can get the stall. Or the 1st to 2nd or downshift from 3 to 2. Happens even in the nights. It is all not regular and can even be rare. But, i list them just to share my limited experience. I havent done any DIY yet, never ripped, done about 5 k in almost a year. In other words, Its almost a new bike, but I realised these are a few characters of this bike, like most wheels.
@Hondarider. its a case of the spark plug cable gettin wet and misfiring and things like that. Realised that when a wanna be shumi on a truck on a rainy day decided to waterwash everything on the otherside of the lane. Simple diagnosis, start, it might with splutter if you hear clicks its a wet plug.actually in morning i cranked the bike and it started with a single push and let her idle for 20-30 sec as usual. after that as soon as i left the clutch, she stopped. so i cranked her again and she didint start so i had to start her with throttle but in idle the rpm was below 1k so i rev her once and it was all fine. it happened again later that day. today no problem as till now.Originally posted by psr View PostA stalling of engine can be due to many factors, and the common possible causes are:
1. Valve clearance set too tight..ie., the clearance is much less than recommended..
2. Valve seat /valve damage leading to leak in compression
3. Injector partially blocked
4. Fuel pump pressure inadequate
5. Debris in fuel line/filters impeding free flow of fuel.
6. Bad Spark plug
7. Bad spark plug Cap.
8. Bad Ignition switch.speed thrills but kills if you dont have skills
Hero Honda PGM-FI service manual:
http://www.ziddu.com/download/157801...EBOOK.pdf.html
A real biker rides with other bikers,
not against them...
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