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The speed depends on many factors.. revving your engine to its max in 3rd, 4th and 5th gear.. it will spoil your engine if you are gonna do this quite often.. the only mod that I did which increased the top end by 4-5kmph is the sprocketing.. i have fitted the P220's 36 teeth rear sprocket.. I just did that to experiment.. but its not worth it.. cos what i find is the quality missing.. there are lots of chain noise, the hissing sound from the chain is what I miss to the core.. and the deadly pick up of ZMR.. you have to lose on something if you want to gain something.. doing this mod.. i had to lose the initial pick up.. reduced.. but not too much..Originally posted by Simran Deep Singh View PostSplendor - 2k to 2006
Karizma - 2k3 to 2009
P180 - 2k6 to 2k9
Hunk - Oct 2k7 til now
ZMR - 2010 to Forever
RX135(2k) - 2013 to 2018
Ninja 250R (2010) - 2016 til now
RayZ - 2015 til now
Ninja 650 (2014) - 2017 til now
Delhi to Narkanda
Delhi to Coimbatore
Delhi to Nepal
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The person who said this? Has he used both side by side??? Well, I have used em all, and in a few instances have run without a filter at all.Originally posted by vishnurajanme View PostHi ashwin, but I think the UNI filter needs more maintenance than the Cosworth if I am not wrong. So only I am planning to get it. Someone quoted that the bike requires more care during water wash than the Cosworth. Also sand can get in the engine during usage of the UNI. Not my thought. Someone had told this some 2 pages back in this thread
Now about the maintenance part, I dont have an exact KM read, but the UNI's been there longer than the Cosworth and its still running fine, Im assuming it will stay fine for 5~8k kms more.
This is a pic, I clicked awhile ago. Its still got loads more surface area.
And now about the washing part, anything other than stock required extra care. With both Cosworth and UNI I've ridden in the heavy rains without any issues, note, in mine the filter is'nt attached to any contraption, its directly bolted onto carb. Be it Cosworth/UNI Water will enter, but its not much of an issue, cause it wont get sucked in due to the low intake velocity. I've observed water droplets resting on the carb mouth and not getting sucked in even at WOT.
Now about sand entering, nothing to say here, just use your commonsense.
Would sand particles pass through a foam based DUAL LAYER, Pre-Oiled filter -OR- A dry Conical filter.
Now once again coming to maintenance part, you need to use your commonsense once more, if one among two filters with similar surface are, needs more maintenance i.e needs cleaning more often due to getting dirty, then that only means one thing, it filters BETTER!!!
I'd sugges you do some research rather than listen to some random guy's word.Motorcycling Experience:
2000 ~ 2017 Y2K Kinetic Zoom (Disposed at 15k)
2011 ~ 2015 Hero Honda Karizma R (Sold at 56.5k)
2013 ~ 2014 Bajaj Discover 100 4G (Sold at 16.5k)
2015 ~ 2017 TVS Wego (Totaled at 18k)
2015 - Bajaj Pulsar 220F (Currently 31k) < Garage Queen!
2017 - Bajaj CT100B (Currently 21k) < 'Golden Quadrilateral' Runner!
The Ride was Good, but Life is short, spend it Wisely!
Adios Comrades!
A.P. 2018
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@ Ashwinprakas, kindly refrain from promoting ZMR Air inlet mods ,based on experience with your carburetor ZMA...they are not the same except for the engine part.....and without results which can be quantified , repeatable , and/or with " seat of pants " feel you run the risk of, actually misguiding members here.Originally posted by ashwinprakas View PostThe person who said this? Has he used both side by side??? Well, I have used em all, and in a few instances have run without a filter at all.
Now about the maintenance part, I dont have an exact KM read, but the UNI's been there longer than the Cosworth and its still running fine, Im assuming it will stay fine for 5~8k kms more.
........................
Now about sand entering, nothing to say here, just use your commonsense.
Would sand particles pass through a foam based DUAL LAYER, Pre-Oiled filter -OR- A dry Conical filter.
Now once again coming to maintenance part, you need to use your commonsense once more, if one among two filters with similar surface are, needs more maintenance i.e needs cleaning more often due to getting dirty, then that only means one thing, it filters BETTER!!!
I'd sugges you do some research rather than listen to some random guy's word.
Please understand the ZMR Electronics before you post....ZMR uses closed loop PGMFi which can compensate for air intake differences both in volume and temperature.....there is an IAT and a Lambda sensor which to gether keeps the engine in tune...The ECM can adjust the parameters according to the engine requirement based on Factory set static Map and the dynamic map learned through use.
The ZMR does not allow you to tune the inlet or AFR like the Carburetor in a ZMA....unless you tamper with the ECM maps..Last edited by psr; 02-06-2013, 06:35 PM.When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.
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Sir, will it be okay if I am using a cosworth filter with my bike? I just love the sound. I need the rest to be the same. I dnt mind improving the acceleration a bit thoughOriginally posted by psr View Post@ Ashwinprakas, kindly refrain from promoting ZMR Air inlet mods ,based on experience with your carburetor ZMA...they are not the same except for the engine part.....and without results which can be quantified , repeatable , and/or with " seat of pants " feel you run the risk of, actually misguiding members here.
Please understand the ZMR Electronics before you post....ZMR uses closed loop PGMFi which can compensate for air intake differences both in volume and temperature.....there is an IAT and a Lambda sensor which to gether keeps the engine in tune...The ECM can adjust the parameters according to the engine requirement based on Factory set static Map and the dynamic map learned through use.
The ZMR does not allow you to tune the inlet or AFR like the Carburetor in a ZMA....unless you tamper with the ECM maps..RVM is a good tool to see your buddys losing behind while racing :)
Now @ 223CC Karizma ZMR
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Originally posted by psr View Post@ Ashwinprakas, kindly refrain from promoting ZMR Air inlet mods ,based on experience with your carburetor ZMA...they are not the same except for the engine part.....and without results which can be quantified , repeatable , and/or with " seat of pants " feel you run the risk of, actually misguiding members here.
Please understand the ZMR Electronics before you post....ZMR uses closed loop PGMFi which can compensate for air intake differences both in volume and temperature.....there is an IAT and a Lambda sensor which to gether keeps the engine in tune...The ECM can adjust the parameters according to the engine requirement based on Factory set static Map and the dynamic map learned through use.
The ZMR does not allow you to tune the inlet or AFR like the Carburetor in a ZMA....unless you tamper with the ECM maps..
I do acknowledge the difference part, but when it comes to filtration point of view they perform similarly. Hence the reason why I butted in, when the OP was confused by something someone randomly claimed. Be it Carb'd or Fi'd the same filter on similar blocks will perform similarly when ridden under similar riding coditions. Cause after all its just a filter. Irrespective of what brand a filter is, its job is to filter, and it does the same even if you use a 5k rs K&N or a 100rs Inner banyan tied to the intake, the only difference will be the quality of filtration which solely depends upon the variance in pore size which is measured in microns, at both min and max levels, at both min and max air flow rate.
Now about the PGMFi, tired of explaining it, so here's an extract from the web on PGMFi, I'm copy pasting it, for further clarification just google it.
Theres a naked ZMR in my college, and I've still not been able to locate the lambda sensor on it.PGM-Fi operating logic also needs an explanation of what is called the 'open-loop' and 'closed-loop' operating mode for PGM-Fi. Closed-loop means a feedback-loop mode. PGM-Fi works in closed-loop mainly during engine idling. In closed-loop mode, PGM-Fi uses the signal from one critical sensor, the O2 (or sometimes known as lambda) sensor to attempt to attain an ideal air-fuel ratio of 14.7:1 (stoichometric ratio). An O2 sensor operates by measuring the amount of oxygen left in the exhaust gas. The amount of oxygen is a good indicator of the combustion efficiency and a higher oxygen content will suggest a lean condition and vice versa. O2 sensors are normally mounted on the exhaust manifold (or sometimes called the extractors) and/or catalytic converters (for cars equipped with them) and PGM-Fi uses the O2 sensor reading to bump air-fuel ratio up or down until it gets a reading indicating optimum combustion.
So during engine idling, the air-fuel ratio may initially fluctuate up and down based on O2 sensor readings but should eventually settle to a stable value corresponding to the ideal 14.7:1 ratio. PGM-Fi works in closed-loop mode only during idle or very light accelerator openings.
From moderate to maximum throttle openings, PGM-Fi goes into an open-loop mode. In open loop mode, PGM-Fi ignores the O2 sensor signal but will still use the other sensor signals (air temperature and pressure, TPS etc) to make compensations on the base injector opening values. However for very heavy accelerator positions (indicated by large TPS values), PGM-Fi now gives priority to engine RPM, MAP and TPS sensor readings. RPM and MAP sensors will always be required since they are input parameters for reading the fuel-map. But in open-loop mode, PGM-Fi no longer makes as much compensation for other sensor readings, other than TPS sensor, as in closed-loop mode.
When operating in open-loop then, PGM-Fi will usually be operating in a rich-mode. This will be especially true for JDM vehicles when imported directly from Japan into various countries (whether as used or new cars). The PGM-Fi program will have been originally designed based on the atmospheric conditions in Japan and they will almost certainly be different from the countries into which the cars are imported. Even for truly localized line-ups, a rich condition also normally prevail because the PGM-Fi program would have been originally developed to accomodate for the whole country or sometimes even an entire region and thus would again be based on a large base of 'average' values.
Now coming back to fueling, if as you say the ECM can dynamically adapt, then again is'nt that a good thing??? Meaning no need for further tuning like in Carb's. Just plug and play would do, and sometimes resetting ECM like we do in cars after performing any intake mods. The last part of your post "The ZMR does not allow you to tune the inlet or AFR like the Carburetor in a ZMA....unless you tamper with the ECM maps" hence confuses me.Motorcycling Experience:
2000 ~ 2017 Y2K Kinetic Zoom (Disposed at 15k)
2011 ~ 2015 Hero Honda Karizma R (Sold at 56.5k)
2013 ~ 2014 Bajaj Discover 100 4G (Sold at 16.5k)
2015 ~ 2017 TVS Wego (Totaled at 18k)
2015 - Bajaj Pulsar 220F (Currently 31k) < Garage Queen!
2017 - Bajaj CT100B (Currently 21k) < 'Golden Quadrilateral' Runner!
The Ride was Good, but Life is short, spend it Wisely!
Adios Comrades!
A.P. 2018
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If the fi dynamically adapts, it does not mean you can take it for granted. Many tell it can adjust to 20% variation in intake. That's it.Originally posted by ashwinprakas View PostNow about the PGMFi, tired of explaining it, so here's an extract from the web on PGMFi, I'm copy pasting it, for further clarification just google it.
Theres a naked ZMR in my college, and I've still not been able to locate the lambda sensor on it.
Now coming back to fueling, if as you say the ECM can dynamically adapt, then again is'nt that a good thing??? Meaning no need for further tuning like in Carb's. Just plug and play would do, and sometimes resetting ECM like we do in cars after performing any intake mods. The last part of your post "The ZMR does not allow you to tune the inlet or AFR like the Carburetor in a ZMA....unless you tamper with the ECM maps" hence confuses me.
As far as riding without a filter is concerned, it should not be mentioned in such forums. Its the same "common sense" as to what would happen to your engine. The very statement reflects the quality of your suggestions. And sorry for re-stating my statement. Its not 10 but 15k kms i've done on my simota. Installed it at 10k and now am completing 25k kms. It can easily last a lot more then that.
vishnurajanme: For a rider riding in average conditions, simota can easily last upto 20-25k kms as it has in my case. I can only talk confidently about simota as i am using it. Cosworth too may last cause of the similar build quality. Regarding UNI, if you can cope up with cleaning it with oil and whatever then do go for it. But one thing is certain. No other filter can filter as efficiently as stock.
bibhudatta: agree with you. I just added my experience regarding top end and no one is encouraging drags or races of any kind.
Also comparing your bikes with others is bad. I just compared it with a 220 just to give a clear picture of the increase in acceleration due to the filter. And yes the ZMR is a calm sports tourer. That does not mean we need not check the top end of our beasts right?ZMR- PGMFI re-defined
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If you go back a few hundred pages, IIRC around the time you were posting queries about going for a free flow filter, you'll see the original post which mentioned the tollerance of 10~20% (Dont remember exact value.). At the time, when I posted that I also did mention that its common for Fi's be it open or closed loop to have a small window of tolerance. This is exactly why even open loops tackle atmosperic changes with ease, and if it were'nt so then what would be the point of having Fi over Carb anywaysOriginally posted by abhi7013 View PostIf the fi dynamically adapts, it does not mean you can take it for granted. Many tell it can adjust to 20% variation in intake. That's it.
As far as riding without a filter is concerned, it should not be mentioned in such forums. Its the same "common sense" as to what would happen to your engine. The very statement reflects the quality of your suggestions. And sorry for re-stating my statement. Its not 10 but 15k kms i've done on my simota. Installed it at 10k and now am completing 25k kms. It can easily last a lot more then that.
Now about FI's dynamically adapting. This is going to be abit OT, but am posting it anyways since it helps everyone to understand what a dynamically adaptive Fi could do.
We ordered a custom conical free flow AF for the Nano, and installed it directly connecting it to the open end of the manifold. In Nano's the exhaust unit is just below the intake, but with stock setup its not an issue cause with the help of ram air scoops, cold air is efficiently delivered. We were aiming for a warm air intake and thus the exhaust can being below the AF was kinda favorable(In a crazy sense of course
). So we reset the ECM after plonking in the filter and then connected the ODB scanner and fired the engine, the moment the engine came to life it showed idling issues and the car started to reek of fuel, but just a few seconds afterwards everything was perfect, it just behaved like stock, we took it for a long TD and the results were amazing, there was a noticeable bump in mileage per liter even inspite of the hard ripping, the intake sensor showed temps upto around 50~60 Degress, dont remember the exact value, and there was a difference in intake volume and pressure(Stock was 5~6 and at the time it was showing 9 something.). In short the ECM had completely adapted to the change in AF and that too in a matter of seconds. Now thats what I call Dynamically adaptive. 
Now coming back to the PFMFi unit on the ZMR. Another peculiar thing about Honda's PGMFi tech is that when its running in open loop mode, its base map is tuned to run abit richer than needed this is why you dont get any hick ups with free flow filters even when its running in open loop mode.
Now about me running without an AF, you mentioned it reflected the quality of my suggestions. So heres another fact, drag setups dont run on an AF at all, the carbs directly suck in air without any filtration. Now I can go on and on about this but there'd be no point cause it would do more harm than good. In my case, I ran without a filter to just know what it would feel like, and also because at the time I was using Cosworth and due to unexpected climate it took abit longer to dry after cleaning and I had no other transport options since Kiney was with mech. But due precautions were taken, and bike was ridden only on tarmac roads, and didnt take it anywhere near dirt or rubbles or anything which even had the remote possibility to screw the block, and in addition to that a piece of clock was folded in layers and securely fastened to the carb mouth using a hose clamp, which I believe filtered even better than stock setup
Motorcycling Experience:
2000 ~ 2017 Y2K Kinetic Zoom (Disposed at 15k)
2011 ~ 2015 Hero Honda Karizma R (Sold at 56.5k)
2013 ~ 2014 Bajaj Discover 100 4G (Sold at 16.5k)
2015 ~ 2017 TVS Wego (Totaled at 18k)
2015 - Bajaj Pulsar 220F (Currently 31k) < Garage Queen!
2017 - Bajaj CT100B (Currently 21k) < 'Golden Quadrilateral' Runner!
The Ride was Good, but Life is short, spend it Wisely!
Adios Comrades!
A.P. 2018
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If you had some kinda protection for the carb, then i take my statement back.Originally posted by ashwinprakas View PostIf you go back a few hundred pages, IIRC around the time you were posting queries about going for a free flow filter, you'll see the original post which mentioned the tollerance of 10~20% (Dont remember exact value.). At the time, when I posted that I also did mention that its common for Fi's be it open or closed loop to have a small window of tolerance. This is exactly why even open loops tackle atmosperic changes with ease, and if it were'nt so then what would be the point of having Fi over Carb anyways
Now about FI's dynamically adapting. This is going to be abit OT, but am posting it anyways since it helps everyone to understand what a dynamically adaptive Fi could do.
We ordered a custom conical free flow AF for the Nano, and installed it directly connecting it to the open end of the manifold. In Nano's the exhaust unit is just below the intake, but with stock setup its not an issue cause with the help of ram air scoops, cold air is efficiently delivered. We were aiming for a warm air intake and thus the exhaust can being below the AF was kinda favorable(In a crazy sense of course
). So we reset the ECM after plonking in the filter and then connected the ODB scanner and fired the engine, the moment the engine came to life it showed idling issues and the car started to reek of fuel, but just a few seconds afterwards everything was perfect, it just behaved like stock, we took it for a long TD and the results were amazing, there was a noticeable bump in mileage per liter even inspite of the hard ripping, the intake sensor showed temps upto around 50~60 Degress, dont remember the exact value, and there was a difference in intake volume and pressure(Stock was 5~6 and at the time it was showing 9 something.). In short the ECM had completely adapted to the change in AF and that too in a matter of seconds. Now thats what I call Dynamically adaptive. 
Now coming back to the PFMFi unit on the ZMR. Another peculiar thing about Honda's PGMFi tech is that when its running in open loop mode, its base map is tuned to run abit richer than needed this is why you dont get any hick ups with free flow filters even when its running in open loop mode.
Now about me running without an AF, you mentioned it reflected the quality of my suggestions. So heres another fact, drag setups dont run on an AF at all, the carbs directly suck in air without any filtration. Now I can go on and on about this but there'd be no point cause it would do more harm than good. In my case, I ran without a filter to just know what it would feel like, and also because at the time I was using Cosworth and due to unexpected climate it took abit longer to dry after cleaning and I had no other transport options since Kiney was with mech. But due precautions were taken, and bike was ridden only on tarmac roads, and didnt take it anywhere near dirt or rubbles or anything which even had the remote possibility to screw the block, and in addition to that a piece of clock was folded in layers and securely fastened to the carb mouth using a hose clamp, which I believe filtered even better than stock setup
ZMR- PGMFI re-defined
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@ Ashwinprakas
All Fi with Lambda sensor have a static MAP fit for the engine and is allowed to learn and update the map as per the particular rider's driving habits...A closed loop Fi becomes open loop when there is acceleration sensed and again settles to close loop once the RPM stabilizes as in cruising ...even here the Fi is learning ,and loads the map of the specific acceleration the driver subjects the ECM to...An aggressively driven engine will be able to have better acceleration than one driven softly...and as such this softly handled engine will not show aggressive acceleration,unless the particular ECM is subjected to repeat aggressiveness.Resetting the ECU with power down mode will auto load factory set map values and learning begins...there is only a 10 to 20 % deviation allowed in a ECM pre-set program for differences from default values , for hard flash ...This is to ensure that the engine is not forced into self destruct . When engines are modified beyond this, a new ECM with total control over programming possibility is used, and stock one discarded...
Air filter is an important part of any ICE and determines the longevity and reliability of the engine...If poor filter is acceptable then Manufacturers need not spend money and research into it's design and tuning...
A drag race engine and or race engine gets stripped and rebuilt ever so often...there is high level of sponsorship which guarantees flow of cash and affordability of many new Engines...a ZMA or ZMR owner does not belong to this category.
I hope you will remember the many queries you had raised during your learning time in ZMA thread,and my patient answers to you.....so don't say that you are tired of replying about the functioning of PGMFi ... all you are doing is cut and paste .
I have done more than 6 mods in my Carburetor, two in the Ignition wire/cap/application,Two in Air Filter,and two in the ignition coil, Two on Emulsion tube, and had tried more than 6 different oils in my engine, and my search for knowledge still continues....I had not shared most of these since time is yet to prove the value ,and the mod's variables yet.....I had not been impatient,authoritative, and always found time to learn and share in which ever thread and forum I can...
After 35 + years learning I had understood that I had only scratched the surface of Knowledge
Life is Short...Learning is forever.Last edited by psr; 02-06-2013, 10:17 PM.When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.
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Most irritating part of owning a MarutiOriginally posted by psr View Post@ Ashwinprakas
An aggressively driven engine will be able to have better acceleration than one driven softly...and as such this softly handled engine will not show aggressive acceleration,unless the particular ECM is subjected to repeat aggressiveness.
Its like if my mom's using car for a day and then when I start driving, the car behaves real lazy and theres too much torque down the range, which makes it hard for the car to climb revs.
I was thinking of the EXACT same thing when I was posting it. Really grateful to you sir for having the patience with me.I hope you will remember the many queries you had raised during your learning time in ZMA thread,and my patient answers to you.....so don't say that you are tired of replying about the functioning of PGMFi ... all you are doing is cut and paste .
I didnt mean that I was tired in an arrogant way, I said so, because I've been trying to explain the same in my own words for a while now in this very same thread, so finally got tired of trying, and instead thought it would be best to post the original source, thats all.Motorcycling Experience:
2000 ~ 2017 Y2K Kinetic Zoom (Disposed at 15k)
2011 ~ 2015 Hero Honda Karizma R (Sold at 56.5k)
2013 ~ 2014 Bajaj Discover 100 4G (Sold at 16.5k)
2015 ~ 2017 TVS Wego (Totaled at 18k)
2015 - Bajaj Pulsar 220F (Currently 31k) < Garage Queen!
2017 - Bajaj CT100B (Currently 21k) < 'Golden Quadrilateral' Runner!
The Ride was Good, but Life is short, spend it Wisely!
Adios Comrades!
A.P. 2018
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Originally posted by rreneav1987 View PostBro.. till now I haven't seen anyone with such issues except what you have mentioned.. they are working perfectly fine and they were able to take up all kinds of pot holes and all kinds of roads in which I have traveled on
Originally posted by veryhiphop View PostNo issues till date in my ZMR...in fact at my SVC no complaint for shocks....Rakesh has changed his ZMR's shocks twice, and the last time just a week back. The guy at service center said to him that the GRS shocks on ZMR would lose the gas if hit a pothole at high speeds, and they have rectified it in the newer ones. And, a friend of mine two days back fitted ZMR shocks on his karizma. When I checked, on 4th setting, the shocks bottomed out when I pushed the shocks down with my hands holding the grab rails. I sat as a pillion and even on minor humps, the shocks bottomed out and made thud sounds. It should not happen and clearly the shocks are defective. This prompted me asking the above question of their durability. I am also planning to fit the ZMR shocks on my ZMA, and now a bit confused with these issues.Originally posted by Divya Sharan View PostNo issues in 2 years.Last edited by ravi@17bhp; 02-06-2013, 11:51 PM.HH Karizma (Current) || CBF Stunner PGM-FI || Honda CB Unicorn Dazzler
Honda Aviator || Kinetic Flyte || Kinetic Blaze || HH Splendor
Two ZMAs, 9 Days in Western Ghats
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Thanks for the tip , as psr sir said it is a highly refined mineral oil.Originally posted by ashwinprakas View PostI remember reading somewhere that Shell synth's are'nt actually synthetic. Please do confirm on the same before making a purchase.
Originally posted by psr View PostShell 4T AX7 10w40 is a highly refined mineral oil..Thanks for the explanation sir .Originally posted by psr View PostHere is the tech spec regarding the Kinematic Viscosity and the Viscosity Index....note the high V. Index and closer values between 40C and 100 C spec...
Choose 10W40 for superior ride experience...
Shell 4T AX7 10w40 is a highly refined mineral oil..
here is the additive info on Shell AX7 10w40...the oil contains 1~3% Calcium and also ZDDP 1~2 %, which is good for the engine's drive train..
The technology behind Shell Advance - Shell Pakistan
Check this picture .Originally posted by ashwinprakas View PostTheres a naked ZMR in my college, and I've still not been able to locate the lambda sensor on it.
You are really nice sir , like a bank of knowledge for us .Originally posted by psr View PostI had not been impatient,authoritative, and always found time to learn and share in which ever thread and forum I can...
After 35 + years learning I had understood that I had only scratched the surface of Knowledge
Yes sir that is why it is said Man is student forever .Originally posted by psr View PostLife is Short...Learning is forever.
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Hello Guys....up here after a long time...was a little busy setting up my biking group..!!
Anyway just wanted my brothers to know id be off for a Mumbai-Himmatnagar-Mt.Abu-Udaipur-Mumbai ride on Saturday with my biking group. 5 days of fun filled riding....arnd 2000kms...And its gonna be amazing..!!
Tc guys...will be up again when im back!!!!:-)Regards-
-K.D.H
www.facebook.com/groups/rrtourers
" the only thing i believe in after the almighty ....is my bike....."
Mumbai Malvan Mumbai
Rajasthan-road-bound-madness
Ride-vansda-gujarat-national-park
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Welcome back. All the best for the trip. Ride safe.Originally posted by padfootmoony2006 View PostHello Guys....up here after a long time...was a little busy setting up my biking group..!!
Anyway just wanted my brothers to know id be off for a Mumbai-Himmatnagar-Mt.Abu-Udaipur-Mumbai ride on Saturday with my biking group. 5 days of fun filled riding....arnd 2000kms...And its gonna be amazing..!!
Tc guys...will be up again when im back!!!!:-)
Got a $5 head? Get a $5 helmet.
Because everyone who passes, isn't a martyr!
Bullet Service Guide CBR 250R Parts Manual Fz16 service manual - https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1-...VFQmJzakk/view
Hero Moto Corp Bikes' Parts RE STD 350 Wiring Diagram (CI) Service Manual - Classic 350/500
ZMR parts - https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-U...it?usp=sharing
P200NS Spares' prices - https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...taGd5R2c#gid=0
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Oh yes yes, checking top end output or giving a full throttle experience to our beasts once in a while is well within our rights.. I would also do it & guess am more prone to doing it as I am coming from an R15 V2.. But am not the one for racing or comparing against any other bike/biker.. Though i also did compare my ZMR with my beloved R15 V2 after buying my ZMR, but that was for an overall review on ride quality, engine smoothness, parts quality etc.. but never really bothered to do any output comparisons n all.. after all both are different bikes from different makes & with different specs.. All I know is, I was a rev guy when I was on top of my R15 & I am a cruise king like on my ZMR nowOriginally posted by abhi7013 View Postbibhudatta: agree with you. I just added my experience regarding top end and no one is encouraging drags or races of any kind.
Also comparing your bikes with others is bad. I just compared it with a 220 just to give a clear picture of the increase in acceleration due to the filter. And yes the ZMR is a calm sports tourer. That does not mean we need not check the top end of our beasts right?
Am just enjoying whatever i have in a given phase.. No complains, No comparisons, No Contest & No Pain..
........... It's My way or Highway on my ZMR ...........https://www.facebook.com/BibhudattaJPhotographyLast edited by Bibhudatta; 02-07-2013, 04:37 PM.
My Bikes:
Yamaha RD (The one which taught me what riding is; Can never forget this one)
Bajaj Caliber (The one closest to my heart; I still have it after 15 yrs !)
Yamaha R15 V2.0 (The best I had; Ah it let me become the college hunk I once used to be :) )
Hero Honda Karizma ZMR (The bike for the family man in me; The practical one; The current one)
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133 kmph??

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