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**utsavchs** · 01-14-2012, 11:54 AM

The oil indicator is coming up all the time after around 2kms of riding and stays lit until rebooted. The engine oil is brand new and has barely done 100kms and it is upto the mark of 1.2Litres.

I got the rim for a super cheap price compared to the Bajaj PBK. Got it for 1876rs from a bajaj spares supplier compared to 3786rs for the same thing at PBK. Got the MRF Zapper FS tubeless tyre for front for 1800rs.

For the rear tyre (A tubeless made into tubed tyre) there are 7 normal puntures and 2 huge sized puntures (size of the holes: 2mm). Remaining life of the tyre is around 12k kms more. Should I change the rear tyre or get the tyres repaired? The new tyre is MRF Zapper (saw a cool slick designed tyre for 2800rs, to get Sirac it will take 2 weeks with price 3200rs)

Another question, is the slime that are being used in tubeless tyres good? I mean, does it deteriorate the handling? Which one is the best and is highly effective? Is it recommended to put slime in the tyres? How exactly does it work?

**nitrosatya** · 01-17-2012, 11:14 AM

My bike is now 4.5 years old. 32k kms.
It is not crossing 125 kmph. Maybe the rear tyre has lost the grip.

I need some advice on the rear tyre. Which one should I go for after this? Does reduced grip translate in low speed and acceleration? Also there is some kind of wobble under hard braking. The front goes left-right.

And lastly the air filter icon and the oil icon keeps flashing after 5 mins of riding.

**Praful** · 01-17-2012, 11:27 AM

The oil indicator is coming up all the time after around 2kms of riding and stays lit until rebooted. The engine oil is brand new and has barely done 100kms and it is upto the mark of 1.2Litres.

For the rear tyre (A tubeless made into tubed tyre) there are 7 normal puntures and 2 huge sized puntures (size of the holes: 2mm). Remaining life of the tyre is around 12k kms more. Should I change the rear tyre or get the tyres repaired? The new tyre is MRF Zapper (saw a cool slick designed tyre for 2800rs, to get Sirac it will take 2 weeks with price 3200rs)

Another question, is the slime that are being used in tubeless tyres good? I mean, does it deteriorate the handling? Which one is the best and is highly effective? Is it recommended to put slime in the tyres? How exactly does it work?

Utsav:
Its possible the sensor at the bottom end of the crankcase has dirt. You would need to tell PBK to look into it and get it cleaned.

9 Punctures

I'd recommend getting a new tyre. But you can fix the punctures on this tyre and use it for a while. But do get a new tyre soon!

I've never used Slime, but on bike I have a feeling it might induce a slight wobble while slowing down from high speeds due to the flowing liquid inside the tubes. Slime temporarily fixes punctures, you can ride home without any issues but you will have to fix the punctures.

Originally posted by nitrosatya View Post

My bike is now 4.5 years old. 32k kms.
It is not crossing 125 kmph. Maybe the rear tyre has lost the grip.

I need some advice on the rear tyre. Which one should I go for after this? Does reduced grip translate in low speed and acceleration? Also there is some kind of wobble under hard braking. The front goes left-right.

And lastly the air filter icon and the oil icon keeps flashing after 5 mins of riding.

Still on stock tyre ??

Stick to stock if you don't want to experiment too much. Reduced grip does not affect topspeed/acceleration. But it does affect topspeed! I'd recommend changing your tyres asap!

Dirty sensors, get em cleaned!

**utsavchs** · 01-17-2012, 12:08 PM

Originally posted by Praful View Post

Utsav:
Its possible the sensor at the bottom end of the crankcase has dirt. You would need to tell PBK to look into it and get it cleaned.

9 Punctures

I'd recommend getting a new tyre. But you can fix the punctures on this tyre and use it for a while. But do get a new tyre soon!

I've never used Slime, but on bike I have a feeling it might induce a slight wobble while slowing down from high speeds due to the flowing liquid inside the tubes. Slime temporarily fixes punctures, you can ride home without any issues but you will have to fix the punctures.

Thanks for the replies praful. Does the bike have topspeed issues in the cold? or is it due to the tyre pressures that I have 25 (front) 28(Rear). I am used to keep 27/35 on all bikes I rode till today, but the SVC guy told me that 25/28 is the correct pressure to be kept.

**Praful** · 01-17-2012, 12:22 PM

Not really if its really cold you'd have about 1-2 Kmph drop max!

The correct tyre pressure *if* using stock tyres is actually 28.4 for both front and rear! I usually keep it 28 for front and 30 for rear!

**nitrosatya** · 01-17-2012, 02:23 PM

Originally posted by Praful View Post

Utsav:
Its possible the sensor at the bottom end of the crankcase has dirt. You would need to tell PBK to look into it and get it cleaned.

Still on stock tyre ??

Stick to stock if you don't want to experiment too much. Reduced grip does not affect topspeed/acceleration. But it does affect topspeed! I'd recommend changing your tyres asap!

Dirty sensors, get em cleaned!

The rear is stock. The front is new. Will change it to new one. Is the wobble also related to the rear tyre?

**utsavchs** · 01-18-2012, 03:13 PM

Originally posted by nitrosatya View Post

The rear is stock. The front is new. Will change it to new one. Is the wobble also related to the rear tyre?

Wobble occurs due to many reasons, listing a few below:

1. Swing Arm Bush gone bad (Rarely occurs)
2. Slime in the tyre (Slight Wobbles while decelerating & Cornering)
3. Tyre surface gone bad lost grip or some sticky substance is on the 40% of the tyre's surface (Wobbles real bad)

Wobbles mostly occur due to rear tyre only. Sometimes the wheel bearings play an important role in wobbling. Also Get the Handle bearing checked.

**utsavchs** · 01-26-2012, 03:52 PM

problem once again...

there is a loud tik tik noise coming from somewhere in the front part above 5k rpm. it drowns in the noise over higher speeds.

secondly, over 8k rpm it feels that there is braking on 2nd & 3rd gears.

thirdly, again the bike is not going over 105kmph. tested on highway and in tunnel. it takes a lot of accelerator twist to crossover frm 99 to 100 and up. at 105 its the end of the twist and it wont go above no matter how much time i hold it there.
eerything is normal below 90kmph and works fine. mileage returning is 44kmpl in city. never calculated on highway.

**antz.bin** · 01-26-2012, 10:07 PM

Originally posted by utsavchs View Post

problem once again...

there is a loud tik tik noise coming from somewhere in the front part above 5k rpm. it drowns in the noise over higher speeds.

secondly, over 8k rpm it feels that there is braking on 2nd & 3rd gears.

thirdly, again the bike is not going over 105kmph. tested on highway and in tunnel. it takes a lot of accelerator twist to crossover frm 99 to 100 and up. at 105 its the end of the twist and it wont go above no matter how much time i hold it there.
everything is normal below 90kmph and works fine. mileage returning is 44kmpl in city. never calculated on highway.

Are you able to hit the rev limiter in lower gears(1st/2nd/3rd)? If yes, please quote what speeds you hit the rev limiter at. And don't give vague figures like 35-37 or 80-85. Revlimiter kicks in at a specific RPM in all gears and the speed will not change within a range in ANY gear.

**abhiiceman** · 01-26-2012, 10:16 PM

Originally posted by utsavchs View Post

problem once again...

there is a loud tik tik noise coming from somewhere in the front part above 5k rpm. it drowns in the noise over higher speeds.

secondly, over 8k rpm it feels that there is braking on 2nd & 3rd gears.

thirdly, again the bike is not going over 105kmph. tested on highway and in tunnel. it takes a lot of accelerator twist to crossover frm 99 to 100 and up. at 105 its the end of the twist and it wont go above no matter how much time i hold it there.
eerything is normal below 90kmph and works fine. mileage returning is 44kmpl in city. never calculated on highway.

have you tried changing fuel filter..

**utsavchs** · 01-27-2012, 03:35 AM

@antz:
honestly i never tried hitting the rev limitter. will try & tell u.
tested @ first gear 49kmph on 10k rpm

@abhiiceman:
umm... fuel filter?

Is it the problem of clutch plates by any chance?

**monty007** · 01-28-2012, 12:48 PM

posting after long time..
another new problem was added in the list of my numerous problems of bike.
this time,
1)the bike is stallin as if there is no fuel in the bike.
2)similar prob persist when i try to rip the bike. chked engine oil level.
3)when the bike is off, there is no oil visible in indicator.when i start it up, the oil level rises to acceptable level, is it normal?
4) Fuel is below reserve capacity level , can this be a problem?
5)checked air filter, it was just fine.
6)can fuel filter be clogged?
7)The humming sound of Fi-motor is not constant at bootup.

also, the speedometer is faulty, show only 0 at all speeds? is there any kind of sensor to be replaced? as well fuel indicator level is not working!

i am fed up of this problems now!
i would greatly appreciate your help! asap

Thank you!

**JonnyRider** · 01-28-2012, 01:11 PM

@Monty, you seem to have observed something that is not right.
When bike is parked and engine is cold, the engine oil is visible in the indicator.
The moment you start it, the engine oil is pumped out of sump, into it's chamber where it starts lubricating the pistons, clutch and gear. So, no visible oil level in the indicator.
Fi doesn't have any oil-filter...only a non-disposable so called centrifugal oil filter that works on oil -pressure. So, no worry about that.
The Petrol is also required to lubricate the fuel-injector, so don''t risk running long in reserve-like condition. If you do that to check the mileage, then just check reserve-to-reserve (hint: when the light lits up and stays red for like 5-6Kms stretch).
For the humming sound, keep the bike in center-stand, try idling the engine for a minute...then pull the front brake, put the bike into 1st gear, slowly release clutch...revv upto 4000 rpm, if any noise you can clearly identify it. Post the same after testing like this.

**monty007** · 01-28-2012, 10:22 PM

@jonny: came to know same thing about oil level indicator from other friend.
weirdly enough! just filling up the petrol more than reserve level solved the problem. bikes running fine, no engine cutoff and stalling so far! humming sound got uniformed as well!
this FIs are really weird

thanks for your reply on oil filter and other issues!

what about speedometer issue! there is no PBK showroom here! so cant really rely on mechanic!

**JonnyRider** · 01-29-2012, 02:50 AM

@Monty: if you run the bike low in fuel, P220 is anyway tuned for lean mixture, but in such case, the fuel-injector would stop the rpm-wise flow of the petrol, inside the combustion chamber...so misfiring will start and then auto-choke will slowly stop working. Hence don't run low, is my suggestion.

The speedo cable, attached to the front wheel, needs to be checked and, if required, replaced. Make sure, if the local mechanic is doing it, the adjustment of front wheel and brake-rotor should be proper, after fixing the cable issue.

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