My P220 Fi Stock isnt going above 107 normally and 110 fully crouched..
What to do? I told the pbk guys about that.
Spark Plugs.. they put Bosh spark plugs. I dont know what is heat rating. sorry.

Just a silly question. Does that oil leakage from that block piston black seal mean Compression loss or something like that? Thats what someone told me.

Thanks a lot Praful and Antz

What tyre are you running at the rear? What is the state of the tyre? How old are the clutchplates? Any idea when they were they replaced last ?

If there's way too much of oil leakage then it could be a compression loss.

Do get a compression test done.

Rear Tyre is Stock Zappers (tubed) - Quite good -

Clutch Plates were last changed at 33,719kms (checked from Probiking service history ) They are now exactly 7k kms old and a year in timeline.

The Sprocket is in its last of days. It can run another thousand kms. Thats what the svc guys told. Will be changing them now.

Just test rode another P220Fi today of a colleague. It really felt so good. No shaking and all even while taking corners it was so solid, I mean it was not like R15 or the RTR but it was way good comparing to my P220.

My bike's front tyre is a little bald. And also the rims have bent and the swing arm bush has developed faults and needs to be changed along with the wheel bearings which are also kinda damaged. Can these might be anyhow be responsible for the low handling experience and the low top speed that it is giving?

Also is there any other sprocket available for a direct fit to P220. I don't actually require a good pickup, just need high speeds on the highways. And where would that be available in Pune.

Stock zappers even now at 33K kms Whoa! Mine finished off in 20K!

The busted sprocket kit is one of the contributing factors to the low topend!

I think you better change your front tyre along with the rim and the replace the swing arm bush. Check if the coneset has been replaced recently, if not in the last 15K kms change that as well. And then check when was the last time fork oil was replaced, if not in the last 10K kms replace them as well.

You can use the 220 Dts-i sprocket kit to get a little higher topend at the cost of a slight drop in acceleration.

The shaking during cornering thing happens due to lack of grip on bald front tyres. Get it changed ASAP. P220 F sprocket has 1 tooth less on the rear sprocket. So marginal increase in cruise speed.

Want even taller gearing? Replace the rear tyre with a Michelin Sirac 120/90R17.
Side effects:
Better off-road ability
Better cornering ability

@Praful Since Utsav's bike is currently at 40k, maybe he just went through his 2nd stock front zapper.

Just came to know that the Front wheel rims are unavailable in Pune Probiking. Estimated time of arrival is 20 days :0 Someone suggest where can I get that from earlier?

Cone set was kinda new. Although I din't change it, maybe the last owner had changed it recently. Fork oil (which fork? Do you mean the gas filled shock absorbers?)

I think I have to change both the tyres. Front one is bald, rear one is a tubeless one with 2 big puntures ( around 1mm holes can be seen at two spots). Btw, Can the rear tubeless be repaired with that big holes?

Installed 220F sprocket. Marginal increase means how much? Taller gearing means?

Btw, I was thinking to do a rear work done for the 220 to give it a different look from rear. How can this be done and where to get it done from?


List of work done as told on phone from PBK:
Replaced 11 fuses and some wiring.
Replaced bracket.
Replaced Fairing.
Installed 220DTS-Fi stickers.
Installed 220F sprockets.
Replaced wheel bearings of both wheels.
Adjusted the headlight to get the beams straight. (High beam going to the sky, low beam going sharp left side with near darkness in front)
Compression checking.

.. I forgot Rest of the work which is getting done .. will tell u once I get billed

Is the Sirac still available ?

- See if there's a place in Pune where you can fix the rim.

- Fork oil is for the front fork, they need to replaced every 10K kms. Early if you ride a lot on bad roads.

- Taller gearing means, the bike will do more speed in a lesser RPM. Stock 220 Fi does 83 Kmph at 6K RPM. With the 220 Dtsi sprocket it would do approximately 86 Kmph @ 6K RPM. Basically, the acceleration will drop a little and the top end will improve a little.

- I would suggest you get new tyres for both front and back.

- Rear work? Can you explain a little more?

- 11 Fuses ?? There are only 2 fuses on the 220 Fi. What wiring are they replacing? The Wiring harness is bloody expensive on the 220, IIRC its about 2.7K.

- Compression was checked? How much was it? Sometimes they say they have checked, but in reality they don't.

Tyres: I had a chat with Antz. He asked me to take the bike to MRF showroom and ask them to do a Mushroom Punture if the tyre can run for 5-6k kms more. Also informed me that it would cost me around 500rs for the 2 big holes. I am unable to get Sirac. Called up the dealer of Michelin and also some prominent shops.


Asked them to change the fork Oil. They informed me it would be 250bucks.

Taller gearing will increase mileage also ryt?

Rear work: I was pointing to some of the images that I saw of P220s. The rear mudguard cut/removed and the number plate placed right under the tail lamp. Is that good? Any cons for me or the rear riders/drivers?

Fuses and Wiring: I dunno what exactly they fellow was trying to tell me.. He was pretty uninformative and looked he had no or less knowledge on the bike. I will go tomorrow and check it for myself. Will report back on the fuse and wire thing.

Compression ratio: They told they have checked it and it was not bad for a 3year old bike. I dunno what was the ratio. Will ask them tomorrow.

Free movement of the rear tyre is not happening properly. Is that normal?

How does the oil cooler of the P220Fi work? Where is the hole to put liquid coolant in the radiator?

I can explain to you about the oil cooling part. We do not have a cooling fluid here,the engine oil passes through one of the 2 pipes on the right side of the engine,it goes into the radiator and there normal air cools the oil and the oil travels back to the engine through the other pipe. That is the system of oil cooling, liquid cooling is where radiator fluid(cooling fluid)is required.

1. If the tyre condition is OK and they are relatively new then get the punctures fixed. I was under the impression that you are still running stock tyres which are 33K+ Kms old

2. Taller gearing will increase mileage, increase topend, reduce vibrations and decrease acceleration

3. As long as its not raining its fine to get the rear mudguard removed, but once the rains start you will have to put it back on because the slush will come on your back otherwise

4. What batch is this bike from? i.e. what is the manufacturing month/year?

5. LoL, thought as much. They probably haven't checked the compression

6. The above post has answered your question

Ok. That means no tension of filling fluid every 10k kms. Thats a great news!

Looks like Taller gearing is the exact thing I required.

I will better keep the mudguard the same way it is - Stock

Manufacturing date?? How to find that? All I know its the second batch of P220Fi that were manucatured. Can I find it from my Chasis Number somehow?

Thanks a lot for answering my querries

List of Parts replaced and added. The Price mentioned below is for the whole quantity and includes VAT


Item Name : Final Price (Qty)

Wiring : 780rs (x11)
HL Bracket : 496rs (x1)
HL Fearing : 275rs (x1)
Monogram : 165rs (x1)
Petrol Filter : 81rs (x1)
FR Wheel bearing : 99rs (x1)
RR Wheel Bearing : 99rs (x1)
Chain Sprocket R/R : 275rs (x1)
Heal Dollar Rubber : 150rs (x1)
Fork Oil : 165rs (x1)
Kit CSP : 1233rs (x1)
Decal Fairing : 128rs (x1)
Hexagon Nut M6 : 2rs (x2)
Bolt : 2rs (x2)
Ball Bearing 620 : 206rs (x3)
Ball Bearing 6302 : 113rs (x1)
Frame Fairing & Oil : 859rs (x1)
Rubber Coupling : 131rs (x2)
Grommet Fairing : 11rs (x5)
Fuel Filter : 45rs (x1)
Mirror Assy LH : 267rs (x1)
Mirror Assy RH : 267rs (x1)
Fairing 220F Black : 1310rs (x1)
Nut Well M5 : 41rs (x6)
Tank decal 680rs (x1)
Bolt Steped : 23rs (x2)
Screw : 11rs (x4)
Chain Cap : 28rs (x1)
Swing Arm Nut : 20rs (x1)
Rear Axle : 144rs (x1)
Seat Cowl LH Decal : 136rs (x2)
B'Monogram Windshield : 10rs (x1)
Fuse Assy - Blade T 17rs (x2)
Kit fork oil : 181rs (x4)
Clutch Switch : 68rs (x1)
Main Stand : 480rs (x1)

Parts Unavailable : Price Quoted
Frond Rim : 3786rs (x1)
Headlamp Assy : 3890rs (x1)


Will change tomorrow :
Front tyre (more likely after changing the rim though)
Will get the rear tyre checked and return it into its original tubeless form.

These are the parts that got changed. The bike is running good now.
As anticipated by Praful, they did not perform the compression test and upon asking they said that the machine isnt with them currently. I just got a small doubt, as the supervisor and the mechanic were both confused on what sprocket they had put. I had told them to put 220F's sprocket. In the end they told me they had put the same thing that I asked for and told me it has 37 teeth. I tested it as you had said. Here is the report.

On 5th gear at 6k RPM it hits 84kmph. Can you please tell me what sprocket they put?

I just happened to notice today that the idling is very near to 2k RPM. Also, after some short riding the oil indicator is lit up and stays there till the bike is rebooted.

I just tried a small speed run test. Compared to before, as I said I couldn't cross 110 mark even while crouching. I touched 117kmph today (dunno at what RPM) without crouching just when the a truck came in my lane and I had to slow down. Pickup has increased by leaps and bounds.

I am not planning to change the headlight as it is serving me quite well. The headlight beams were adjusted and now even the high beam travels quite parallel to the road surface. The Crack is in the place of the higher beam, still its too powerful for the cracks and hence its in quite a good condition I would say.

^^
You still have the Fi sprocket only, the Dtsi sprocket is 36T.

Change the tyre when you change the rim.

Does the oil indicator come up all the time? Or was it a one time issue?

The oil indicator is coming up all the time after around 2kms of riding and stays lit until rebooted. The engine oil is brand new and has barely done 100kms and it is upto the mark of 1.2Litres.

I got the rim for a super cheap price compared to the Bajaj PBK. Got it for 1876rs from a bajaj spares supplier compared to 3786rs for the same thing at PBK. Got the MRF Zapper FS tubeless tyre for front for 1800rs.

For the rear tyre (A tubeless made into tubed tyre) there are 7 normal puntures and 2 huge sized puntures (size of the holes: 2mm). Remaining life of the tyre is around 12k kms more. Should I change the rear tyre or get the tyres repaired? The new tyre is MRF Zapper (saw a cool slick designed tyre for 2800rs, to get Sirac it will take 2 weeks with price 3200rs)

Another question, is the slime that are being used in tubeless tyres good? I mean, does it deteriorate the handling? Which one is the best and is highly effective? Is it recommended to put slime in the tyres? How exactly does it work?