Hey guys. Long time. Was completely away from xbhp for many days. My love affair continues! Bike completed 3 years on 19th Dec '11. Run 37,600kms+ already, running smooth, running strong! Have changed the spark plug and brake light, but apart from that, not required any big part replacements (except consumables of course). Have also stripped the swingarm and front-end, cleaned and lubed everything. Bike running good.


The cone-set comes for 2800 all total, including each part imaginable. Just the races and the bearings would come to about 2200. I have bought it, and trust me, my bike has had real bad cone set abusing, but still the race and bearings are perfect, with no pitting. Check the bearings/races yourself before you change. Don't go by the svc bullcrap.

Sorry man, searched for your post, did not find it. Is it just front or rear wheel? Or both? The tire sits on the inner rim, and the surface where tire and rim interface has to be seamless. Even I had the same issue, and I had to change the rim.

Its an oil damped shock. Check and see if there is any leak/damage to the cylinder, and also to the actual spring.

Check for residual current leak in the LED mod you've added. Its a DC system, plus the electrical system on this bike is 'just enough' for stock electricals, so any tinkering has to be done real carefully.

2 things. First, avoid runs on a dry chain/insufficiently lubed I ruined my first chain set that way, and am well on the way ruining the 2nd one as well. 2ndly, do you let the clutch out suddenly/downshift without blipping? The shock through the transmission cause by these also provokes chain elongation.

Spray Zorrik on the gear linkage. Also make it a point to lube the front sprocket. This actually makes gear shifts buttery.

Regarding the RPM issue, are you sure you 'close' the throttle? I had a habit of holding onto a marginal throttle. If yes, then does the engine feel like its idling/revving at 2k, or just the tacho reads 2k?

If its actually revving at 2k with the clutch pulled, check the clutch switch.

Hey what's up man. Long time. I didn't get the 'monoshock greasing'. How is it done?

Is it that the front is stiff, or the rear is stiff? Is it only the suspension, or the handling? While leaning, do you feel the front wheel tracking slightly different than the rear (as in both are not following the same arc). If its the latter, the steering needs lubing and re-torquing.

For suspension, try getting the fork oil and seals changed. Again, not required if it aint broke in the first place.

How many kms has the bike run? I would personally recommend waiting for the bike to do 7-8k kms atleast before using a fully synthetic oil. I have used Motul, and am hooked onto it ever since. Look no further. If the cost is okay for you, go for the Motul 300v 10w40.

Again, is it the rear or the front? Because if front, might also be the steering. And I don't know about straightening out a bend in an aluminum rim. Getting the original curve is difficult. A minor defect in the rim seat is enough for residual air to leak. I have personally changed the rim (similar pot-hole mishap), and with new tires, they are super air-tight.

why 10w40 what's wrong with 300v 15w50

@svjhonda . Good to see u here bk again
Over a period of time. The mounts of the monoshock and the linkages would need to be checked to see if there is proper movement or is being hinderd with all the oil dust muck gettin in between.

With the things in between. The shock absorber would no more be as effective as it needs to.

Just as coneset greasin at 12k interval. I do the swingarm n suspension overhauling at 20 k .


Santa

The post was about the LED strip mod.

The rim had a minor bend. Unfortunately, I didn't have the budget nor I felt it was justified coz the bend was really small. I filed air&went back home,then it was straightened out on the hydraulic press machine. It was minor.
Reason for the leakage is the repainting of the rims-the painter has painted it on the inside as well!
As I mentioned, we tried sanding it ourselves at the last service but it didn't work out.
I am thinking of going back to the painter and asking him to remove the paint completely on the insides with thinner or something-what do you say?
I will check for minor rim bends as well during that time.

Hi bro,

Thanx for your response. My bike completed 3yrs on the 18th dec '11. Seems my bike is a day older . At the moment my odo reads 22,280kms. Absolutely no incidents till date touch wood. May be i will write a 3yr review soon.

I had been on yamalube fully synthetic, since the last 3 services. I had not explored others brands like motul, as there are soo many variations in the oil grade and blah blah, it was all going over my head. Plus I wasn't following the discussions closely over here. Now i am catching up. And i am finding conflicting info regarding the Motul 300. Some people say its amazing, while some are saying its an expensive way to screw up the engine in the long run . only god knows. Besides is it appropriate to use 10w40 in a hot country like India? Cost is not an issue, when the cost translates to effectiveness and value for money. If those are missing, then for me it becomes a foolish expenditure.

I randomly stumbled on this. And then i felt like rolling on the floor my ass off.

some members have had this kind of a problem before, the reason turned out to be a faulty spark plug cover (black colour rubber thing)...just search this forum, you may find it..
if you hear the fuel pump during the self-check, its working fine..
there is no problem in the fuel pump of the v1.. people are idiots and run the bike till its dry and then refuel..that spoils the pump..avoid it..

I have used both 15w50 and 10w40. The recommended grade for the R15 is 20w40. Basically 20 does not matter as we don't have sub zero temperatures here. But I noticed a difference in 40 & 50 grades. On 40 the engine feels much more free while revving up.

Okay. I've done that, and yes, it really improves the ride quality.

Yeah, try and have the paint completely removed. And the seat area should be real smooth for an air-tight seal.

True that. I'm on Motul 300v from 12k kms, and the engine is still a gem. Manufacturer recommends 40grade oil, and I have used both. The cooling on the engine is real good. Use 40 grade. No issues.

Like Veyron said, check the spark plug cap. It caused issues for a few people. Also you don't have odd sounds from the injector do you? Check one more thing, if the airbox inlets are being blocked. You might be having papers/cleaning cloth under the seat. Make sure the airbox inlets are completely free.

Hey guys i am riding joels big bore and ffe. I have completed 3k km on ffe and 1200km on new bore.
The sound of engine is a bit different from stock(not the exhaust but engine) the engine makes a little noise when in motion like clinging sound of chain. Its not much noticeable while revving at standstill. The ride also gives some power pulses when ridden in loe gear in traffic. But which maybe due to new clutch and throttle cables.
Can it be chain timinv problem? The mech said he had adjusted the timing to normal while installin the new bore. But i never checked the timing after that.
So the experts please help! Can it be timing problem or its normal?
P.S. The ride has completed 1200km since then without any problem. And is just noticable unless you have ridden the stock on very regular basis

Hey guys i am riding joels big bore and ffe. I have completed 3k km on ffe and 1200km on new bore.
The sound of engine is a bit different from stock(not the exhaust but engine) the engine makes a little noise when in motion like clinging sound of chain. Its not much noticeable while revving at standstill. The ride also gives some power pulses when ridden in loe gear in traffic. But which maybe due to new clutch and throttle cables.
Can it be chain timinv problem? The mech said he had adjusted the timing to normal while installin the new bore. But i never checked the timing after that.
So the experts please help! Can it be timing problem or its normal?
P.S. The ride has completed 1200km since then without any problem.

Engage the clutch while idling and see whether the clinging sound reduces. If yes than clutch bell needs reconditioning.

Experiment gone bad

I tried installing HID with projectors, but since the projectors were quiet long i had to cut the reflectors and fit the projectors, but then i realized my old hid kit of 4300 k was not compatible so had to Chinese one of 6000k, which dint gave any good output and the head light was falling like a half clock shaped and pointing towards the left beam instead of falling straight so it was a waste. The Projector is more oval shaped rather than round shaped.

Again as it was connected to the battery it drained it off completely, so now i am searching the HID bulbs which can directly fit on projectors as the old connectors wont fit without the kit to the projector or last option would be to change the complete assembly.

Currently using 55/60 H4 philips halogen bulbs on low beam for day to day use.

Please guide me if anyone else has gone through same and came out with some solution.

Any one can help me?

May be the chain time sprocket is not aligned properly. Many months back I had simultaneously changed my throttle and clutch cables so that I have a spare set in decent condition; but I never experienced any power pulses. So as Juris advised, it could be your clutch bell, whatever that is.

Vandal that service engineer seems to be vandalizing your wallet and your bike. I would be mighty pissed to be charged Rs.2k and still not have the problem rectified. I think you should call Yamaha customer care and tell them about this. Also convey the same via email, so you get a written response.

The first feeling im getting is that there maybe an airbox obstruction. Could it be that something you placed under the seat is obstructing the airbox orifice, or that something may have passed through the opening and is sticking on the airfilter? I heard sometimes the clip inside the spark plug cap can get damaged. Which in turn will prevent the cap from securely fitting on the spark plug terminal. I had further heard that water droplets in the fuel tank, also causes stalling. Bad adulterated fuel may damage the injectors.

hey guyz what brand of brakes are in R15...