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Yamaha YZF-R15
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Pirelli SD is a front tyre&so is the stock sized IRC. Contigo makes rear tyre in stock size other than Ceat Vertigo button type.Originally posted by shrinathrao View PostPirelli SD and IIRC cost?
Is IRC same dimensions ?
On Saturday while servicing I met a guy who had fitted IRC 130/70x17" without cutting the chain cover&he said that the pickup in 1st&2nd gear had reduced though from 3rd gear onwards its normal.
IMO if V1 owners are looking for a slightly fatter tyre, Vee rubber makes 110/70x17".
I had posted about various tyre options long back-have a look. Sorry I can't provide the permalink as I'm browsing from phone so you need to use the Search feature!
Regreased&replaced too! But is it that sensitive?Regrease it and see if it helps, also check fork settings.
Sent from my Galaxy Note using Tapatalk 2Quench my thirst with gasoline!
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Swing arm Change when wrong
First of all it was a bad idea to change the swing arm from the V2 to V1
Things I have done.
1. Got two r15 v1 and v2.
2. Removed swing arm, all the bearing and its connecting parts.
3. Cut the chain.
4. Removed the disk all its assembly from the lever.
5. I installed all the parts on to v1.
To be frank I did not get much handling as I thought but was a good learning.
The only advantage was to get the old r15 a 2 inch increase in height because of the suppression
I would like to ask some questions about the tires:
Currently because of an accident during the experiment I have brought a tire from MRF Showroom.
tyres detail:
110/90-17 MRF Zapper C?? Is it a soft compound tyres ?? And is it ok for r15??
Can you tell me the dealers for Pirelli and IIRC in Bangalore??



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I also took the plunge with a used r15 for 68k.Originally posted by GHoSt220 View PostThe day I rode the R15v1 for only 4.5kms I fell in love with it. So, I came back home and sold my 220dtsi within a week, which clocked only 5.5k kms.
Now I am seeking a R15. Budget- 68k.
So please put down your valuable comments for what do I need to check for before buying a 2nd hand r15?
Check the paperwork and make sure engine,chassis nos match with that from the RC book.ensure you get NOC if its still hypothecated.
Mileage done is not important if it has been well maintained.
try to get service records.
Inspect throughly for scratches,cracks on the bodywork.and throughly look through the inners of the fairings and make sure there is no fiber patchworks done. Make sure paint finish is even and is looks same when seen in different angles. Scratched Bar ends,levers,pegs,exhaust,fairing edges point to a fallen bike.stay away from a bike that has a very bad appearance as it points to an abused bike
Check the travel of the front forks and after repeated pressing of the forks ensure no oil leaks from the forks.
Check the brake pads for sufficient thickness and ensure no radii have formed on the brake discs. Also check the chain sprockets for wear and make sure it still can last a few thousand kms.
Ensure rims have no bends or cracks as its expensive to replace.
Make sure tires are stock and of the same make and also have sufficient tread left. a set costs 4-5k(not too sure though)
Check all lights,indicators and make sure the bike has not been modified in any way. If lights are dull or blink when on or if theres any hesitation/delay when starting the bike point to a weak battery.make sure bike has not been modded, specially any electrical mods. A stock bike's battery should last about 24-30 months.
Fire up the bike and listen to the idle.let it idle and ensure the fan kicks in after a few minutes.
Take a long test ride and make sure the bike handles well and does not lean in any particular direction when straight.
Hard accelerate in all gears and ensure the clutch doesn't slip. Any gear slippage or difficulty in shifting gears might be symptom of a wornout clutch.
Make sure engine is dry and free of any fluids like oil/coolant.the exhaust should not leak oil and should not blow out any blue smoke when revving hard.if so it might mean a blown headgasket.
Ensure all screws on engine are same and aren't worn out/damaged. If so it shows engine has been opened
Inspect the bike in day light and try buying from a known/private seller. If possible take along an experienced mechanic. Also if possible try comparing the performance with another r15.
Mine already had 18k kms on the odo and I've done another 25k kms in a year.:-D
Got no unexpected headaches and had to deal with only wear and tear expenses. Overall a very reliable bike.
Take good care and change engine oil every 3k kms and flush out and replace coolant as it has to be changed every 2 yrs.and always have the chain cleaned and lubed every 500 kms.
Might have missed some points as I'm only a beginner.
.in that case,seniors please do chip in. :-)
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hi folks. I am a new rider on my old R15 v1 2008 Nov. Model. Odo 17k. Picked up the blue beauty before one week back.
Its a second hand bike from a very careless owner, so its having its own problems. The bike was standing non ridden for last 2 years. When I first rode it it was good, but then within 2 days it started giving a tak tak sound from the engine though I have changed the engine oil immediately & also oil filter.
Going to YFS Pune today for get it checked & also a full service.
So any suggestion guys.
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try leaving the handle and see if the bike holds its line or sways to one direction, it may all be fine, new tyres behave funny sometimes, give them time to break in.Originally posted by shrinathrao View PostAfter putting new set of tyres and setting the cone set, i am experienced the bike is leaning a bit more than usual on left handlers, though nothing wrong went till now but was wondeting is there any setting exta to be done to control it ?sigpic
I am responsible !
I am trying !
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After leaving the handle it holds the line well. break in should not be issue after 1000+ kms i feel.Originally posted by abhi_underdog View Posttry leaving the handle and see if the bike holds its line or sways to one direction, it may all be fine, new tyres behave funny sometimes, give them time to break in.
@ pushpal - congo man, lets ride to lavasa and see how your beauty does
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[QUOTE @ pushpal - congo man, lets ride to lavasa and see how your beauty does
[/QUOTE]
Sure, sounds fun.
Just a update, I got my bike serviced from YFS today. Cant understand why the bike is still not smooth in terms of handling. May be its smooth but I am new to it.
Ride safe folks.
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Thanks bro!!Originally posted by rajesh7 View PostI also took the plunge with a used r15 for 68k.
Check the paperwork and make sure engine,chassis nos match with that from the RC book.ensure you get NOC if its still hypothecated.
Mileage done is not important if it has been well maintained.
try to get service records.
Inspect throughly for scratches,cracks on the bodywork.and throughly look through the inners of the fairings and make sure there is no fiber patchworks done. Make sure paint finish is even and is looks same when seen in different angles. Scratched Bar ends,levers,pegs,exhaust,fairing edges point to a fallen bike.stay away from a bike that has a very bad appearance as it points to an abused bike
Check the travel of the front forks and after repeated pressing of the forks ensure no oil leaks from the forks.
Check the brake pads for sufficient thickness and ensure no radii have formed on the brake discs. Also check the chain sprockets for wear and make sure it still can last a few thousand kms.
Ensure rims have no bends or cracks as its expensive to replace.
Make sure tires are stock and of the same make and also have sufficient tread left. a set costs 4-5k(not too sure though)
Check all lights,indicators and make sure the bike has not been modified in any way. If lights are dull or blink when on or if theres any hesitation/delay when starting the bike point to a weak battery.make sure bike has not been modded, specially any electrical mods. A stock bike's battery should last about 24-30 months.
Fire up the bike and listen to the idle.let it idle and ensure the fan kicks in after a few minutes.
Take a long test ride and make sure the bike handles well and does not lean in any particular direction when straight.
Hard accelerate in all gears and ensure the clutch doesn't slip. Any gear slippage or difficulty in shifting gears might be symptom of a wornout clutch.
Make sure engine is dry and free of any fluids like oil/coolant.the exhaust should not leak oil and should not blow out any blue smoke when revving hard.if so it might mean a blown headgasket.
Ensure all screws on engine are same and aren't worn out/damaged. If so it shows engine has been opened
Inspect the bike in day light and try buying from a known/private seller. If possible take along an experienced mechanic. Also if possible try comparing the performance with another r15.
Mine already had 18k kms on the odo and I've done another 25k kms in a year.:-D
Got no unexpected headaches and had to deal with only wear and tear expenses. Overall a very reliable bike.
Take good care and change engine oil every 3k kms and flush out and replace coolant as it has to be changed every 2 yrs.and always have the chain cleaned and lubed every 500 kms.
Might have missed some points as I'm only a beginner.
.in that case,seniors please do chip in. :-)
sigpic
Fear The Black
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Have you covered 1000kms already on the new tyres and still facing this issue? It has to be something else then. Get the alignment checked. Has your bike fallen or taken any serious bumps? It happened iwth me once when the front wheel's axel was slightly tilted and even after checking everything the bike behaved strangely,m you could check that also.Originally posted by shrinathrao View PostAfter leaving the handle it holds the line well. break in should not be issue after 1000+ kms i feel.
@ pushpal - congo man, lets ride to lavasa and see how your beauty does
sigpic
I am responsible !
I am trying !
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Taken a couple of bad roads. and some unmarked speed breakers. Checked the bearings, fork all are fine its just the lean angle i feel has something to do. Will try to remove both the handle bar pieces and put it back, hope it helps man.Originally posted by abhi_underdog View PostHave you covered 1000kms already on the new tyres and still facing this issue? It has to be something else then. Get the alignment checked. Has your bike fallen or taken any serious bumps? It happened iwth me once when the front wheel's axel was slightly tilted and even after checking everything the bike behaved strangely,m you could check that also.
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I think you need to use the same size tyres from the V2 to make it work properly, ideally you'll need the rims of the V2 to accommodate the rear tyre properly. Also check if there is any difference in the suspenion components such as bushes etc. Good luck, I am also tempted to do this, any idea how much the swing arm costs?Originally posted by nv.rohanraj View PostFirst of all it was a bad idea to change the swing arm from the V2 to V1
Things I have done.
1. Got two r15 v1 and v2.
2. Removed swing arm, all the bearing and its connecting parts.
3. Cut the chain.
4. Removed the disk all its assembly from the lever.
5. I installed all the parts on to v1.
To be frank I did not get much handling as I thought but was a good learning.
The only advantage was to get the old r15 a 2 inch increase in height because of the suppression
I would like to ask some questions about the tires:
Currently because of an accident during the experiment I have brought a tire from MRF Showroom.
tyres detail:
110/90-17 MRF Zapper C?? Is it a soft compound tyres ?? And is it ok for r15??
Can you tell me the dealers for Pirelli and IIRC in Bangalore??



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Is the Pirelli MT75 still being manufactured/sold? I've made up my mind I will NOT go for the stock rear tyre next time-the bald center patch is a puncture magnet-2 tiny punctures with not even a nail made my 3-4K kms. old tyre go flat this afternoon!
Sent from my Galaxy Note using Tapatalk 2Quench my thirst with gasoline!
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You may have to hunt it hard but i doubt the pirelli would give you a good lean angle, if lean angle is not priority than check the ceat vertigoOriginally posted by Sarvajit View PostIs the Pirelli MT75 still being manufactured/sold? I've made up my mind I will NOT go for the stock rear tyre next time-the bald center patch is a puncture magnet-2 tiny punctures with not even a nail made my 3-4K kms. old tyre go flat this afternoon!
Sent from my Galaxy Note using Tapatalk 2
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