Since '02 xBhp is different things to different people. From a close knit national community of bikers to India's only motorcycling lifestyle magazine and a place to make like-minded biker friends. Join us

Castrol Power 1

Hot days = molten tar = slip/slide.

Our Partner

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Yamaha YZF-R15

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Originally posted by Vinit S View Post
    thanks for reply!

    but 8k why?
    every thing els is working fine i have even re-bushed the clutch bell ,so no noise in transmission at all also the gear shift are smooth!
    only slight drag due to min amount of clutch slip and thats it ! so i think clutch plates are worn out as they have never being changed and i have clocked 16k
    pls explain why i need to change push levers etc , etc??
    Changing the clutch assembly to 20P2 requires more than just the clutch plates. 20P2 clutch assembly has one extra clutch plate and friction plate. There simply isn't enough room in your bike's clutch bell to accommodate that. Changing the clutch bell also means changing Clutch boss. Once you change these two, your push rod won't have enough length to function properly, you will also need to change that (it might look like a simple rod, but costs about Rs. 500-600). Now you'll realize, push rod is too long some whatever reason, and you'll end-up changing your push lever assy to accommodate the push rod.

    Once you finish installing the above mentioned parts, you will wonder if it was worth the effort. Absolutely not! 8K is a lot of gas money! This comes from someone who does 5 - 6 trackdays in a given year. That's the only reason I still own an R15.

    If you still wish to change your clutch assembly, good luck sourcing all the parts and dealing with Yamaha's Service Center. They will try to sell you 38B1 parts as 20P2. Knowing the exact part number helps. In my case, I had to travel three different cities to get everything (add 1500 Rs of gas money there) :P

    Source: Loads of patience, disposable income and 5 liters of engine throw away engine oil.
    Last edited by awesomeo; 03-08-2013, 02:18 PM.

    Comment


    • Originally posted by awesomeo View Post
      Changing the clutch assembly to 20P2 requires more than just the clutch plates. 20P2 clutch assembly has one extra clutch plate and friction plate. There simply isn't enough room in your bike's clutch bell to accommodate that. Changing the clutch bell also means changing Clutch boss. Once you change these two, your push rod won't have enough length to function properly, you will also need to change that (it might look like a simple rod, but costs about Rs. 500-600). Now you'll realize, push rod is too long some whatever reason, and you'll end-up changing your push lever assy to accommodate the push rod.

      Once you finish installing the above mentioned parts, you will wonder if it was worth the effort. Absolutely not! 8K is a lot of gas money! This comes from someone who does 5 - 6 trackdays in a given year. That's the only reason I still own an R15.

      If you still wish to change your clutch assembly, good luck sourcing all the parts and dealing with Yamaha's Service Center. They will try to sell you 38B1 parts as 20P2. Knowing the exact part number helps. In my case, I had to travel three different cities to get everything (add 1500 Rs of gas money there) :P

      Source: Loads of patience, disposable income and 5 liters of engine throw away engine oil.

      Sir here is some confusion , let me clarify it
      i have a 20p1 model which has set of 5 friction plate already
      all i need to do is just replace the clutch plates!
      thats why i was asking the cost of clutch plate set of 20p model and not of 38b1!
      then why would i need push lever and other parts !

      but you have done major mod like changing clutch-bell, clutch boss,push rod ,and for parts you travel different city's wow you have lots of patience sir!

      whats the difference is it in performance or smoothness?

      Comment


      • thanks dude i will go for stock ones
        with bigger powers comes bigger responsibilities
        http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/image.ph...ine=1362689127

        Comment


        • Originally posted by somen1984 View Post
          R15 stock rear tyre's dimension are perfect for this Bike. Don't later it. Else some or the other thing would be hit! go for same one.
          thanks dude i will go for stock ones
          with bigger powers comes bigger responsibilities
          http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/image.ph...ine=1362689127

          Comment


          • Originally posted by Vinit S View Post
            Sir here is some confusion , let me clarify it
            i have a 20p1 model which has set of 5 friction plate already
            all i need to do is just replace the clutch plates!
            thats why i was asking the cost of clutch plate set of 20p model and not of 38b1!
            then why would i need push lever and other parts !

            but you have done major mod like changing clutch-bell, clutch boss,push rod ,and for parts you travel different city's wow you have lots of patience sir!

            whats the difference is it in performance or smoothness?
            My bad! So many 38B1 to 20P2 clutch conversions thesedays. 38B1 is smoother, but 20P2 is a little wicked!

            Comment


            • hey guys has anyone here used Agip racing 4t full synthetic oil in their R15's.
              its viscosity is 5W-40
              what are its drain intervals?
              Earlier i was using yamaha lube SS so this time i am planing for Agip
              please guide!

              Comment


              • hey friends,

                I have recently changed my rear tyre as it was giving lot of issues in handling as gear shifting used to make rear skid at times, under mrf warranty.

                now the sue is that i observe my front tyre is giving out more rubber on the left side as compared to right side, and same is with rear tyre too.

                i checked the bearings, forks and other settings from Factory shop service center and that all is good.

                Now wondering what can be the reason that the tyre is getting damaged from one side, as even the new rear tyre also has started going through same issue again in merely 100 kms usage.
                Has anyone faced similar issue or know any solution for the same ?

                Comment


                • Guys is it ok to use mobil 1 10w40 fully synthetic ?
                  The Power of Kawasaki Ninja 250r is with me

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by Bipr15 View Post
                    Guys is it ok to use mobil 1 10w40 fully synthetic ?
                    Go ahead and enjoy the ride, Many people are using it in R15, Make sure you are done with free services.

                    Comment


                    • PM me if anyone is willing to sell their r15 v1 in chennai...sorry if i have posted in a wrong page,i don't know where the page for buying second hand bikes is located...

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by shrinathrao View Post
                        hey friends,

                        I have recently changed my rear tyre as it was giving lot of issues in handling as gear shifting used to make rear skid at times, under mrf warranty.

                        now the sue is that i observe my front tyre is giving out more rubber on the left side as compared to right side, and same is with rear tyre too.

                        i checked the bearings, forks and other settings from Factory shop service center and that all is good.

                        Now wondering what can be the reason that the tyre is getting damaged from one side, as even the new rear tyre also has started going through same issue again in merely 100 kms usage.
                        Has anyone faced similar issue or know any solution for the same ?
                        Might sound stupid but here it is; You have been negotiating more right turns than left ones. In fact, there is a very real possibility that you are doing more milage on the right side of tyre than on the left side as you prefer leaning your bike more to the right while steering right than the left side. Most riders are more proficient in handling one side of turns than the other. For example, when I started to learn riding, I was more proficient at doing left turns than right ones as I am right handed and its easier for me to pull the right handle for left turns than to pull the left one for left turns. It took practice and conscious application to get over the pulling of handles to pushing of handles to steer accurately and more consistently.
                        Last edited by abhimanyu31; 03-18-2013, 10:40 PM.
                        Only a biker knows why a dog sticks his head out of a car window.

                        Multum in Parvo - Much in Little

                        "Yes, it is FAST! No, you CAN'T ride it!" - http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/general-...a-300-san.html

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by shrinathrao View Post
                          hey friends,

                          I have recently changed my rear tyre as it was giving lot of issues in handling as gear shifting used to make rear skid at times, under mrf warranty.

                          now the sue is that i observe my front tyre is giving out more rubber on the left side as compared to right side, and same is with rear tyre too.

                          i checked the bearings, forks and other settings from Factory shop service center and that all is good.

                          Now wondering what can be the reason that the tyre is getting damaged from one side, as even the new rear tyre also has started going through same issue again in merely 100 kms usage.
                          Has anyone faced similar issue or know any solution for the same ?
                          If the tires are losing more rubber from the left side, then like abhimanyu31 said its most probably because you are taking a lot more left turns than rights and/or taking the left turns more aggressively (more speed & lean) than the rights.

                          somehow i encounter a "lot" more fast left turns than rights. maybe its because right turns often involves cutting across a lane of traffic at intersections so you can't go through them as fast.

                          another reason could be road camber.
                          Last edited by incipient; 03-19-2013, 01:06 AM.

                          Comment


                          • As per the above two remarks, I also have chicken strip(s) on the right of the rear tyre, I hit up more left handers at reasonable speed than I do right, maybe this is also to do with us driving on the left in India, I am also right handed, but my left hand/foot is more dominant with physical/practical things, for example when I used to box, i was a south paw, when I used to play football I was a left back/winger, having said that I feel more comfortable leaning to the left, maybe weight distribution can also come into play here, as the right maybe marginally heavier with the exhaust, in terms of balance at the rear. I will also add that since running the V2 swing arm and tyre set, I feel more comfortable cornering, this may also be down to my height and weight that the weight distribution feels much more comfortable.
                            Beware of Bread, don't say I didn't warn you!
                            More than 98 percent of convicted criminals are bread eaters !
                            Statistics show that more than 75 % of violent crimes are committed within 24 hours of eating bread !
                            Bread is known to be extremely addictive. Subjects deprived of bread and given only water, actually begged for bread after just two days !
                            Bread has been proven to kill. Scientists have now uncovered alarming evidence that 100% of the people who eat bread will eventually die !

                            Comment


                            • Its been 3 years affair with bike now and she never disappoints no matter what. Till date I still cannot find a better handling machine in this range and I guess many will agree on this point. I am one satisfied owner of this product mainly because I received really good service till date by Monarch Yamaha on tilak road.

                              Now I would like to now which battery to go for? Aamron 5amp have heard it's a direct fit and recharges on the stock setup. Can anyone confirm this? & share the cost also? Please mention tata green details too.



                              Thank you brothers.

                              Comment


                              • Give it some time (3-400kms.) and keep the air pressure intact-it will settle down.

                                Originally posted by shrinathrao View Post
                                hey friends,

                                I have recently changed my rear tyre as it was giving lot of issues in handling as gear shifting used to make rear skid at times, under mrf warranty.

                                now the sue is that i observe my front tyre is giving out more rubber on the left side as compared to right side, and same is with rear tyre too.

                                i checked the bearings, forks and other settings from Factory shop service center and that all is good.

                                Now wondering what can be the reason that the tyre is getting damaged from one side, as even the new rear tyre also has started going through same issue again in merely 100 kms usage.
                                Has anyone faced similar issue or know any solution for the same ?
                                Quench my thirst with gasoline!

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X