^^^ I don't think you will find many people over here who have limited themselves to simply swapping the stock air filter for the Simota one or any other for that matter. Anyway, to answer your query, you can swap it without the need to make any other changes. All it is going to do is allow a bit more of free flow of air. On its own its not going to do much other than making the fuelling slightly lean, which the ECU will compensate for.

Hi R15 v1 folks
my bike is facing valve issues as when i rip, i got to hear an tnnnnn noise which comes from valves.
complaint to yamaha, Svc guys tighten the exhaust valve, but still the noise comes.
they mentioned the clearance for exhaust.020mm and for intake .010mm.
now what i feel is the intake valve who is culprit as the noise mostly comes when i am accelerating.
its R15 v2, and the engine is same afaik.
Please help me.
Experienced owners with this problem, i would be thankfull if you put some light on it.
Thanks in advance.


Help!!
Expecting very much from abhimanyu.

Check the accelerator cables, If required replace it. Also do check the air filter paper and have you done any clutch settings recently ?

I agree to what you say but i have a doubt here as i was using cosworth air filter and it was doign good for 8k kms until i came across a news that my friend royd also used the same filter on his Fazer and his engine went for overhaul in a period of 10000 kms after installin the filter. The reason told to him from YFS wakdewadi, was the FZ has 4 valves on stock air filter box same as r15 and in the after market since it has 3 valves only so the one important to carry poisonous and burnt gases is closed with ash and due to this the engin suffers lot of hassles and his engine went for a toss.

Dont know how true it is.

Can you please put some light in this.

Ok, here is are some facts and my experience on the replacement air filters:

1. The air filter has only one job and that job is to provide the engine with clean and clear air filtered from any suspended particles. Period!!! It has no other function.

2. Bike makers design air filters in conjunction with factors such as design of air box, inlet track, throttle body design, valve sizes, combustion chamber design, etc, etc. They also make a number of trade offs in the design of the same including but not limited to flow of air vs. periods between service interval, placement of air filter/ air box vs. position of the throttle body, etc, etc. Therefore, the stock air filter is the outcome of extensive consideration, design man-hours and testing invested in by bike makers.

3. As mentioned above the stock air filter design has been arrived at after a lot of considerations. One of the outcomes of this consideration is the service interval that has been recommended by the bike makers. For example the R15 has a service interval of cleaning the air filter at 5,000 kms and replacement of the filter at 10,000 kms.

4. A replacement air filter has a slightly different design agenda than the one mentioned in point 1. Its slight (but significant) difference is to provide more air to the engine vis-a-vis a stock air filter while doing the job of cleaning and clearing the air from any suspended particles.

5. So the big and obvious question is; How does the replacement air filter provide more air? Once again question of design considerations comes to fore. The most obvious way to provide more air (in terms of air mass and also air velocity) is to reduce the resistance that the air filter creates while filtering the air. To reduce the resistance two approaches are used; (1) Use air filter element with larger and more pores to allow more air through and (2) reduce the total surface area of the air filter element.

6. When the above mentioned approaches are adapted, there are once again trade offs. The biggest trade off is the service interval. It is my experience that no matter what replacement air filter makers claim, the service interval for replacement air filters is undeniably short compared to a stock air filter. I have been using replacement air filters for 25 years now in one form or the other. For conical air filters I clean at an interval of 1,200 km to 1,500 km (on all my 2 strokes) and for plane type (on my R15) I keep an interval of 2,000 km to 2,500 km. I have never faced abnormal wear and tear or any related issues where the blamed can put on the door steps of replacement air filters.

7. All that said, replacement air filters on their own do not give any great benefits. They become a necessity when you make significant changes to the engine setup. Such as revised intake tracks, larger valves, bigger throttle body/ carb, Free Flow exhaust etc. When such changes are made, a stock air filter can and in most cases will be a restricting factor in making the air flow efficiently thereby snapping power and performance of the engine.

Now coming to your friend's problem. For the explanation given by the SVC I have just one word; humbug!!! I am assuming that your friend used a conical type air filter for his Fazer. If that is the case then the whole air box was removed and the air filter was mounted directly onto the carburetor. Such a setup leads to considerable increased in air flow. While the effects of the same vary depending on the make of the bike and also the state of tune of individual bikes it is my experience that if you use a conical type air filter directly mounted on the carb/ throttle body, you will need to change the fueling. You will face a lean burn situation and the effects are even more pronounced as the engine speed increases. Running a lean engine on long term basis can have devastating effect on the engine including but not limited to excessive wear and tear.

To compound the above mentioned matter, it is also most likely that your friend has not cleaned the air filter at interval as mentioned in point 6. This will have led to a chocked air filter which would have started to pass on chunks of dust particles collected by the chocked element as it had reached its saturation point as far as collecting and holding of dust was concerned. These chunks of dust particles will have acted as sand paper creating havoc with the valves, cylinder walls, piston rings, etc.

So the bottom line is that you need to aware of the pros and cons of using a replacement airfilter before using the same.

clutch settings are not touched, and air filter paper is ok as i recently got it cleaned>
Both 1st and 2nd service were done by Svc and both times the airfilter was not cleaned.
so i went to another Svc and they did for free.
What else?

I think there is a mistake out here. Please reconfirm the above mentioned values are not a typo error or misunderstanding. The stock valve clearance values are Intake 0.10 - 0.14 mm and Exhaust 0.20 - 0.24 mm.

The values mentioned by you are impossible.

Yes its
Intake 0.10 - 0.14 mm and Exhaust 0.20 - 0.24 mm.
The way the Svc mechanic check the clearance with the filer gauge is like hit and try method.
they fold the filer gauge which is required to check but they do not have exact experience to handle.
This time they will try and tight the intake valve.
What do you suggest?

The reason that they need to bend the requisite feeler gauge strip is the limited amount of space available to work within the head. What you call hit and try method is not so. There is some method to what seems like madness to you. As there is limited amount of space available to work with, a feeler gauge (which has strips of metal of various thickness) is used to to 'feel' out the gap. If the gap is more than the thickness of a particular size of metal strip then a thicker one used to see if it slide fits. If a gap is less than the size of a particular size of metal strip then a slimmer strip is used. This 'feel' process is continued till a strip is found where in it slides into the gap with just some amount of resistance but is not difficult to slide or move. It requires some practice to get the right feeling.

Now in your case what should have shortest and simplest way to go about is:

1. loosen the lock nut.
2. loosen the adjusting screw.
3. put the relevant size metal strip between the adjusting screw and the valve stem.
4. tighten the adjusting screw till the metal strip moves with just enough resistance to sliding to not feel completely free.
5. hold the adjusting screw steady and tighten the lock nut (this is a very crucial step, if the adjustment screw is not held steady the lock nut will change the setting when it is tightened).
6. recheck the setting by sliding feeler gauge into the gap again.

Most people make 2 mistakes; the first one is to use a dry metal strip. I always apply a thin film of oil on both sides of the metal strip before sliding it into the gap. A dry strip makes it more difficult to get a correct feel. The second mistake is not following step 5 as mentioned above. Most people don't hold the adjusting screw steady while tightening the lock nut. This invariably disturbs the adjustment making it tighter than what you had adjusted it to.

As a footnote: The amount of space available for working is relative. While we may feel that there is so little space available to work in this 150cc single cylinder imagine what must be the space available in a FZR 250 where a 60cc (60cc x 4 cylinders) cylinder has 4 valves and dual cams. Such little space must be nightmare to work on when adjusting valve clearance.

the process was very well known to me but as i said they were not able to clear out that which valve is out of its perfect adjustment.
when the mechanic who is the best over Svc nandanvan claimed that the intake is loose, he went to get a cup of tea and asked other mechanic to check it out.
now the second mechanic came with conclusion that the exhaust vlave is loose. so the 1st mechanic asked him to go further with the process of adjusting it.
here they changed their first decision about intake without getting a proper check to it. i hope you understand my situation as i was standing with a torch so that the mechanic can see the valves properly.

Tumoro i am going again, and this time i am going to check it myself after they come to any conclusion.
First of all its very difficult to put the feeler gauge to put between the place which is used to check the clearance.
and when it goes, it should scratch the feeler or what.????
shall i use .10mm feeler to check for intake or other?
and same .20mm for exhaust?
it should be more that .10mm and .20mm respectively or -1,+1 will work?
Thanks to asnswer as their is no one on V2 thread to answer my these depth questions as their engines are New.

i know all the changes in performance with fault clearance but all those are read on Google.
what is the difference in performance with loose and tight clearance as you would have personally experienced on R15

whether its intake or exhaust.

^^^ I dont get this... Are you saying that they just checked and adjusted the exhaust valves and didn't do the inlet valves? Why would one check and adjust only one side of valves? When you have the head cover open why not check both side valves and adjust? This is one of the reasons why I don't like giving my bike to any SVC. They are in a hurry to get you out of there and therefore just do the bare minimum and push you out.

Here's what you need to do:

1. Insist on them to checking and adjusting all valves. No matter that they think the clearance is ok.
2. Before they check, ask them to show you the feeler gauge strip with the relevant value.
3. Tell the apply a thin film of oil on both sides of the relevant strip.
4. A +0.01 or -0.01 is ok.

Yes they tighten one of the exhaust valve and mechanics are just scooter mechanic typo.
This is getting me a good knowledge but i am suffering this noise which is not acceptable.
Well i would go tumoro and will share every detail on monday.
Thanks again for help.

I guess you mean tomorrow, the forum has an integral spell checker (US English), It took me a good few minutes to decipher what you had written.

Anyway back to your issue, things like valve clearance adjustments are pretty straight forward and can be done by yourself if you have or are willing to invest in a basic set of "dude" tools, feeler gauge set, a ratchet spanner set and a set of normal spanners. Best to remove the tank as this gives best access and will save a lot of time faffing around. Bare in mind it's only a single cylinder bike based on a geared scooter, there's not too much that's really complicated, at least 70% of maintenance and repairs can be easily done by DIY, service manuals and spare parts catalogues are available online, along with internet forums and websites to help you along, it really helps to avoid being fleeced or fooled by mechanics etc.

R15 Shocker seals

my R15's front shocker is leaking does anyone know how much it will cost to repair it from service centre.?

400 to 500

@abhimanyu - Now here are 2 cases where you explained about the Conical filter was fitted directly on carb after removing the air filter box, In my friends fazer which suferred a engine overhaul at the same time i installed the filter which is recommended for R15 and my friend rohit mule did the same on his FZ16 and we both never had faced any issues, Now FZ16 being carb it doesnt have any hassles like too lean mixture running.

Same with the R15 but looking at the plight of fazer i had removed it but the same filter is going strong on FZ16. Though we both make pressure air clean every 1000-1200 kms. Lastly, is there any way to identify if the air filter is causing any hassles as i had bit good low end on my R15 and my friend said he got 3% better mid torque on FZ 16.