Yep Amaron 5amp battery works well with stock set up.
I am using TataGreen Battery 5amp battery.

Mine costed some where 1300 -1400 Rs but you can negotiate for this with exchange of your old battery.

BTW are you thinking on any mods ? If Yes then only go for 5amp battery else stick to stock one, no means spending extra money for 5amp if you ain't going to use it.


Guys any thoughts on this ??
Yesterday rode a V2 and I felt it was little relaxed as per riding position compare to old V1.
Is it only me or there is really a bit change in riding position in V2 as compare to V1 ?
This is not the first time I am feeling V2 bit relaxed but had noticed previously as well.

On the contrary, Amaron 5Ah batteries are bulkier than stock Minda battery. You actually need to remove Styrofoam packing from battery holder to install a Amaron 5Ah battery. I paid 1.2K for mine about 1.5 years ago.

Afraid you're wrong, Amaron 5 amp battery is definitely bigger than the Minda 3.5 amp, I am also running one. You still need to remove the styrofoam padding, no need to pack it, if there was cardboard isn't the best of things to be pressed up against a hot battery.

You both are correct ! My bad !

Oh Holy Shit !!! F**K Man !!

I am using Tata Green battery sorry guys !!

I was in impression that i brought the Amaron battery. I checked my post again.

TataGreen 5 amp battery is smaller then mine stock Minda 3.5 amp battery.

Thank you for your replies. I am using an hid setup from Navnish on the upper rhs 35watts 4300k no issues till date even on the stock Minda battery.

I am not running any mechanical mods because I like to have complete stock reliability & would upgrade now to something bigger wouldn't settle anything less than 600cc R class. Waiting for the appropriate moment in our country.

Is anyone using the Amaron 5 amp battery ?

Is the pading removal enough to fit, and does the stock charger does its job well ?

Or Do i have to do some more mods as i am planning to put a 55/60 on High beam and stock 35 Watt on low beam, coupled with LED parking lights of 0.3 Wats.

On the contrary most people actually feel the V2's riding posture is more aggressive!
Actually, though the steering rake angle is unchanged from V1, the actual lean angle increases due to the ride height (130mm. rear) and seat height (800mm.) being slightly higher as compared to V1.

Can anyone give an user experience on tata green & amaron batteries? 5amp or whatever specific people are using.

Been using a 9amp Amaron for more than 2 years now. No problems at all. It lives up to its name of maintenance free.

Can you share the cost of your battery? And any mods that you may have done. Also does it recharge on the stock setup?

I really don't remember the cost. I change over to a 9 amp battery because I had installed projector lights and a high compression setup with the decompression mechanism removed. I need the additional cranking power as well as the power to the lights.

The projectors turned to be very trouble some and I went back to the stock setup. I still have the high compression setup and have completed 12,000 kms on the same. There is no problem with charging it on stock setup. You will however have to cut up the battery box to make the battery fix. Also this is possible only in the V1. V2 does not have enough space for the 9 amp.

Thank you for your reply. I am running an hid 35w 4300k on rhs which was bought from navnish.Correct me if I am wrong you are also running an setup from Joel aren't you? If yes can you tell me the niggles & backfires you faced? And in the end is it worth it? Also how is the TPS tyre sealant? Does it balance neatly?I own on v1 38b1. Sorry for the barrage of questions.

Ok, let me answer these point wise:

1. If you are running projectors of any kind a bigger battery is very much a prudent thing to get.

2. Yes, I am running a big bore setup. My setup is one of the earlier versions of the 165cc with semi forged piston. I am now informed that this has been discontinued in favour of a 170cc setup with a forged piston. One of the primary reasons for switching from semi forged to fully forged pistons was due to complaints of scuffed and seized set ups. However, I have not faced any such problems. I have tried the new 170cc setup and it has noticeably beefier torque curve than the 165cc setup.

3. As far as niggles and backfires faced, I can say that fuelling is the biggest headache. It took me a long time to sort out the fuelling. While Joel provided me with various fuel maps to try based on my feedback, i was really struggling. I finally had to get my hands dirty and only after a lot of trials and adjustments was I able to get a reasonably working baseline. There is still a lot of room for adjustment and it will be a continuous process. Without a dyno and gas analyser, one has no choice but to use this slow method of trail, read and adjust. As I had no experience with fuel injection setup, it was a learning process for me.

4. Such a setup demands more care and has shorter service intervals. The valve clearances need to be check more frequently and the adjustments have to be more exacting than the stock ones, which incidentally are more flexible and have quite a bit of margin. To keep the setup in good health, oil change and air filter cleaning is a must every 2,500 to 3,000 kms. Incidentally, I use Motul 300V.

5. Other than the above, I faced the problem of the FFE getting completely corroded from inside after 2 years of use. I had to throw it away and got a Leo Vince as Joel could not ship a new one in the time frame as required by me.

6. As far as TPS is concerned, I can say it does its job as advertise. I think the best thing one can say about it is the fact that once you put it, you feel a noticeable change, however, after a few miles, you will get so use to it that you will not notice anything out of ordinary. It will take you a ride on a bike without TPS to then bring to fore the difference between the two. Definitely recommended.

On the issue of whether such a setup is worth it or not; it depends on what you want out of such a setup. If you are looking for stock reliability without any niggles and zero extra maintenance, then no, it's not going to happen. The niggles can be sorted out but the extra maintenance is a part and parcel of the deal. Also sorting out the niggles is one of the plus points and challenges of the whole thing for people who love to tinker around.

Thank you for all the information. Was planning on the 170 bore well let's see.

Can someone reply to the above post?