@ jadhav - i am back in chennai and the bike is in kolkata.

@ svjhonda - i am back in chennai and the bike is in kolkata i will be caming to kolkata on 25th of this month then we can meet, by the way PM me your mobile number so i can call you.

If u know the page could u tell me that please.....i have checked i saw one where a guy has got Golden rims n some MRF tyre for his bike .....but it wasnt Fz tyre.Thanks for the help though

I cant carry myself to SS, 14kms from my place in hyd's heat!


thanx for the guidance man! Shall check up tomorrow.

guys i am really fed up with this tappet issues...its sounding odd nowadays...and you know what???here in kolkata we have the factory showroom and the sc guys are telling that this is FI engine so no need of tappet adjustment...what a JOKE????when the mannual says to adjust every 6000kmsa...mine has run 10000plus and no tappet adjustment till now....what to do???can anyone post some pics of the tappets???and ell me how to adjust it...then I WOULD SCREW THESE PEOPLE OUT...

...I saw the day
become like night...
I saw a man run with the Jaguar...
He is called theJaguarpaw, he rides on a rear made of radial ply..

search for abnormalities fz

Find Joel's post, print it and ask them to do it.(Insist on the Clearance in Joel's post if you need performance, else use detuned 0.10in,0.20ex )
If they cannot, ask them to write it and give it with signature(Don't tell why! only u know that its of no use).
I made them do it and then did it myself at home which took a while to get out, but thanks to Joel who was there to help as always!
or else take it to a good 4stoke mech.

I was encouraged to crash my bike after, good punch..

maybe these pics can help you

@red ...thanks a lot...will do so....
@thy...cannot understand the second pic buddy...please help

am not technically strong also dono the parts name.. but the ones i marked with green circles are called tappets (valve). I lost the step by step pics to reach it. will try to post....

North ones are the exhaust and south ones are inlet.
Adjust the "valve adjuster screw" after loosening the "nut" on it.
You need a feeler gauge with 0.10mm leaf.
This has to be done very carefully, its a skill you can add to your CV!

Check this link out for general guidance:-
My R15 will do 103 in 3rd and walls at 10kRPM becaz it was from the first lot lol

Congratulations!!

Just a couple of main things to remember. Be careful and avoid pot holes at high speeds of 90+ or u could end up with bent, cracked rims.

Keep an eye on the coolant level with more miles on the odo. I've observed that after topping it at 1000Km service i was below low mark just after 2000Kms. So i bought a motul 1lt coolant. Keep it topped up. Check for radiator leaks on long rides. So far i've not had any such issue.

The oil filter needs a change at 1000kms service and then again after 10000kms at 11000kms. This will be the only expensive part of ur free service.

The bike returns good fuel efficiency after the initial 500kms of running in and even better after the first 1000.

The chain has a mind of its own, so to speak, it will make a irritating noise when its dirty and sometimes make even more when its completely clean after more than 30mins of cleaning with motul chain clean and lubing it and then there are times when its completely filthy and wont make a sound. It sorts out on its after after some 50-70 kms post lubing, which includes hard riding. clean it between 500-1000kms period depending on how dirty it is! Also clean your front sprocket at least once every 1000kms, use motul or OKS degreaser and lube for cleaning and lube. No fuel/kerosene. I guess u might know this already. Also check for chain slack. Here chain is the most expensive part cost upwards of 2000 bucks. Keep it in good shape should last 20-25K+

The brakes need to break-in and will work optimally after the initial 250kms+/- U probably know that too, coming from an RTR.

The bike's a lot fun once u finish with the running in period, i finished mine at 1000kms. With some 300km mountain riding as part of the running in.

Yamalube mineral oil is more than sufficient for the engine. 180 bucks i guess. no need to waste any extra money on any fancy oils such as castrol/ motul - semi/fully synths. IMO any 20w 40 oil will do for the bike. 1Litre.

Take good care of her and keep her clean, or else once it gets really dirty it takes hours to clean it!

Cant think of anything more than these for now.

Take good care of her and enjoy the ride, you'll just love the bike as u ride more!

I guess, kerosene can be used for cleaning the chain. Correct me if I am wrong.

thanks a lot buddy....it will be great if you can do so...i am really pissed up...

@RED: "My R15 will do 103 in 3rd and walls at 10kRPM becaz it was from the first lot"
Mine is also from the 1st lot. I've also done 103 in 3rd. My bike's rev limiter also kicks in at 10K RPM.
So, what is the difference between the 1st lot&the subsequent ones?
I heard that the 1st few lots had 60% of the parts imported&hence the sticker on the side frame "Made in Malaysia/Indonesia". What is the real difference is what I wanna know!

Kerosene may be used but i dont use it on my r15. Ur not supposed to use petrol/diesel because it damages the o-rings in the chain. kero i suppose is a light solvent unlike petrol/diesel and should work fine but I prefer Motul over kero anyday and prefer to play it safe here.