Guys, I just noticed a joint in metal (maybe) on my r15. Can you check the pics and tell me what is it? and if all r15 have this join or whatever it is

Seems like a manufacturing defect to me











(Joking, thats a stress point... made like that to dampen the shock in case of a bad crash. Its like a self destruct thing)

I think its regular in all r15. ll check and let u knw.

I usually ride my bike at night and all the day it is kept in shade. So, it means that the sound not only comes in sunlight but also when it is kept under shade.

Lol.. I checked the 2nd message after the 3rd time i came to check thread for update

Guys My Engine Trouble shoot Light came up and i had read the Code it's 46 it says
Power supply to the fuel injection system is not normal. i beleive it may be due tothe faulty Battery. Need to get it replaced

Awe! Sorry!

*Cough*

This issue would definitely be covered under warranty, and you can claim it.
It doesn't seem to be an issue with the speedo sensor, and the sensor is only for speed & distance tracking I think. The tachometer would have a different sensor connected to the engine IMO.
But you would be able to claim the warranty only if you are able to replicate the issue in front of SVC guys.
Does the issue persist for n number of KMs if you don't turn the ignition key Off-On?

Even I've faced such issues twice. In my case this usually happens during self-test when the tachometer shoots up till 12k n then doesn't return to 0, it stays somewhere near 4~5k. But the problems corrects itself with 2~3 turn on-offs. I enquired about this in the service centre and they said it might be due to water getting inside the tachometer...
(But I like riding beyond 12k rpm)

just 416.4 kms and the tire is that much worn?
Will add you.
Copy cat! Its the best for dry. Gives good acceleration and grip.
Nai, by cold tires, I mean when the bike hasn't run at all (ideally). But under 1.5kms is okay, to get to a pump. More that that, the air inside the tire warms up and expands, so at the pump, you'll get a faulty reading, and when the tire cools down, the actual pressure is lower than recommended. That's why I fill 30psi front, and 35 psi rear, so when it cools down, it must be around the recommended 28/33 pressures.
AFAIK, its 28 for the front, and 33 for the rear.
1) That's fuel vapour escaping under pressure. Nothing to worry about.
2) Cross check with a few R15s. Maybe its the same. Otherwise probably the pads need sanding, or the brake line needs bleeding.
3) Can't say without listening to it. Just for safety, check the mount nuts of the exhaust. There are two nuts on the engine (exhaust manifold end), then there's one under the right footpeg, and there's one near the pillion footpeg. Tighten all these nuts/bolts. Also check for holes/damage under the exhaust (P.S.- there should be one symmetrical hole just where the pipe begins to expand. Its for water to escape. Check for other holes).
4) It might be due to a number of reasons. Get the issue checked at the svc. Improper assembly might be the culprit.
Notchy gearshifts might be because of an improperly adjusted clutch cable, improper chain slack/adjustment, insufficient chain lubrication, engine oil- spent/deteriorated/below the recommended level, improper clutch operation (the clutch basket), improper operation of the shifter cam/shaft, etc. So reasons are numerous, unless you get it checked, you'll never know.
Yes, the Motul semi-synthetic is re-branded by Yamaha and sold as Yamalube semi-synthetic, available in showrooms (but somehow, the Yamalube deteriorates more rapidly than the Motul Semi-synthetic!). But the Motul, and the recommended capacity is 0.95l (50ml lesser than 1 litre) if the oil filter isn't being replaced. But you can pour the entire 1l. No issues. Just make sure the bike has run more than 6k kms before shifting to semi-synthetic oil.
1) Few. The radiators are different (although the 2008 & 2009 bikes' radiators are being replaced free of cost). Horn is different, and a few nicks and nacks. Nothing drastic. You can go for any model.
2) Yes, rusting is an issue. Although (touchwood) on my bike its negligible. But yes, its better to get the chassis re-sprayed after about 6-7 months of purchase.
3) My friend's bike is losing the paint on the mirror stalk steadily after every wash (at svc). I think if you complain, Yamaha does re-paint them.
The problem might be with the console or the speedo sensor. Is the malfunction indocator blinking? If not, then its definitely the console (the speedo and tacho cluster). Even my friend's console had to be replaced after 2.5k kms (and he lost his previous odo reading ). Get it replaced under warranty.

About the saree guard, mate, its not very strong. A child can bend it with ease. If its crash protection you seek, its useless. Only purpose I see is to prevent trailing garments from going into the sprocket. I've removed it, and I don't take saree wearing ladies as pillions.
If the tacho's malfunctioning, get the instrument cluster/console replaced under warranty. ASAP!

How many kms has the bike run with the semi-synthetic oil, and which oil are you using? I had run Yamalube semi-synthetic, and it barely lasted 1500kms for me. The engine had become harsh, and I was afraid of revving it beyond 6k rpm, because of the feel I got. Using Motul's fully-synthetic 300v, and it runs effortlessly for 5-6k kms! Even a friend who's tried both, Motul's semi-synthetic, and Yamalube semi-synthetic says there's a hell lot of a difference between the two oils. I don't know what Yamaha does to the oil...
Is it gear relevant or rpm relevant? I mean, if you rev the bike in say, 3rd gear beyond 7k rpm, does it feel harsh/vibey? Because if so, I'm afraid, the life of the oil's finished. If not, then the issue is weird.

In higher gears, it just starts as soon as you shift into them, or when you go beyond a certain rpm?
Even if its parked in the shade, fuel vaporizes real fast. When the pressure builds up, it escapes under pressure. No worries.
^
Okay, I answered a lot of queries. Someone answer mine now.

Are u talking about the connection that fits here:-

As far as I remember the sc guys remove that entire black thing as whole.

Nope, Gladi's muffler cap much smaller than this one. So it wont fit at all.

The muffler cap costs Rs 1250

Thanks svjhonda for the reply!!!!!

Yes, and until I switch OFF and ON the ignition key.

Is Yamaha replacing all the 2008 & 2009 bikes radiator free of cost? You Mean recalling...?

~3500kms with Motul Semi-Synthetic oil.
How to test the clutch's life without dismantling?

Alright I checked the console for this problem while returning back from office. It happened 1 time over a distance of 12 kms (and I was riding in traffic so was also looking at the road ahead). No, malfunction indicator is not blinking. I'd hate if my console had to be changed and the odo reading went blank .

I took off the saree guard off the bike to straighten it up. As soon as I looked at the bike without the guard on, I knew that I wont be putting it back on. The bike looks much better without it (although I'm anticipating much more "patle tire hain" now as the rear tire is more exposed). A question popped into my mind, the 2 nuts beneath the tail panel which attach the saree guard to the bike have lost their alignment. How shall I rectify this? (in case I want to put the guard back on at a later stage)

also, shall I put the screws in those 2 nuts back without the saree guard or shall I keep them aside? (coz putting the screws back in will keep them safe......I have a tendency to lose track of where I put stuff after a while)

Forget the liking bit & get it checked & replaced under warranty ASAP.
It is esentially a faulty piece IMO..


It is gear specific. I can take it all the way upto the rev limiter in gears 1, 2 & 3 without any harshness.
The harshness in gears 4, 5 & 6 can be felt at 4k RPM & above. I barely ride below 4k in these gears, but have not felt the roughness so far.

I wish I could
Did you check the service manual?


Weird! Seems like there's a devil in your bike's tachomter.
The next time the issue crops up, run on your bike to the SVC, and get the thing fixed/ replaced.

I checked at Perfect Riders here, & they had a list of chassis numbers for which the replacement was being done by Yamaha. I purchased my bike in May 2009 from Perfect Riders, but my bikes chassis number did not feature in that list. The SVC supervisor was saying that the replacement was only for specific batch(es) of the radiator, which were doubted to be faulty.


EDIT
Get the issue checked at the SVC. Its better getting the console replaced (if required) now, than at at say 10k Kms.

How did the nuts lose their alignment! Weren't they well in place until you removed the saree guard!

I'd suggest to not re-fix the nuts on the bike without the saree guard.
They might get loose & fall off due to the vibrations, or some idiot might even remove them (you never know).
What I have done is packed & kept the saree guard & the 3 (or 4) screws in a cover. Will keep it clean, safe & trackable.