Koti has some decent shops. They do stock even the more expensive LS2 helmets. There's this place with a bunch of helmet shops together, half a km from Big Bazaar in Koti. I didnt venture further, but there might be more shops ahead.

Real tough to find helmet shops in other places in Hyd.

Wish DSG had a dealer here. Dying to get some decent gloves to wear for my R15.

K&N Gyan!

Guys who are planning to install a K&N/guys who have already fitted one:
Get the stock filter back on!

Just my personal opinion, but i got my stock filter put back and here's what i noticed:
1. Much better pulling power (Torque)
2. Mid range - Top end felt much better.
3. Engine heat reduced.
4. Bike engine and exhaust note sound much better. (exhaust especially has a much more audible beat)

Now these are just my personal thoughts. It could vary for other people. Had installed a K&N RC1060 last month. Mech left the air-filter box open. Sound was too loud for my liking (for touring) so got the lid put back. Sound pretty much returned to stock, just a slight roar when accelerating. Bin ridin that way for 90% of the time i had the K&N. Felt like top-end had reduced, bike wouldn't pull like earlier past 110km/hr. All in all felt like dumping the filter for lack of an AFR/FID unit to tune the fuel supply. Sold the filter to a buddy who owns a Unicorn. MUCH better performance on his steed i say! He's one happy bloke!

Hope this info comes in handy to anyone looking for a filter change. Joel's aftermarket filter would be a much better bet! Cheers and happy riding.

Engine Oil

Sorry for the additional post, but wanted this to show up separately.

Am going in for an oil change and am planning to get Fully-Synthetic Oil. A lil history here: My bike ran on Yamalube Mineral (Rs. 220/-) from 0 - 7000km. Then changed over to Yamalube Semisynthetic (Rs. 450/-). Have bin riding on this oil ever since, currently bike's almost crossed 12000km. Yes, have completed 12000km in 5 months of owning the bike! Since i tour a lot, i want to switch to fully-synthetic to smoothen the engine feel AND for better engine protection.

Guys who have any info on Shell Helix [5W40] (Rs. 1015/-) please comment as im interested in this oil. Motul seems a lil difficult to get, but am trying to source Motul 300v [15W50]. The Yamaha SVC recommends Agip Fully synth, but have no idea on the grade of oil or whether anyone's tried it earlier.

xBhpians kindly give me your opinions and feedback. Cheers!

Shell Helix Ultra[5w40] is a car engine oil(i have it on my car).

Motul is easily available in Bangalore. Go to JC road after the signal near the BBMP parking there is SBI bank/ATM(on the right-hand side) and right just next to it go inside that road you will see Enfield workshop opp to it you get a Yamaha spare parts you will get Motul stuff there , FS is about MRP 850 he will give it you for 800

Hope this helps

Hey Guys Please do reply.

Cheers

Ok today I checked the meter and here are the details

Trip 1 : 39.4 Km
Trip 2 : 44 km

Its on reserve mode and it shows the bar blinking .. F - 11 Km

Now my question is

1) What exactly is trip 2? I know what is trip 1 which means that the distance covered by bike in reserve mode...now what is trip 2?

2) I can roughly calculate the mileage now only

39.4 (Number of kilometres travelled) + 50 (kilometres left in reserve) / 3.6 (Amount of petrol filled when the trip was set)

So the answer is 24.88 = 25 Kmpl...

Mileage is very low I hope it increases after 1st servicing..

Buddy there in no technological change that is going to happen with the 2011 r15's. So the bike will remain the same. The only difference is that if you buy it now, i.e. december 2010, the bike will be a 2010 model; else, if you wait for a month and buy it in 2011, then the bike will be a 2011 model. The only difference this makes is that at the time you wish to sell the bike, you will get more money for a 2011 model bike in comparison to a 2010 model bike.

I'd say buy the damn thing right now, You're buying the bike to ride it, why think about reselling it when you haven't even bought it yet?


Although that advice is from the point of view of a biker.


A normal person will say that if you have a temporary bike that can serve you in this one month, then ride that temp. bike in december 2010 and get your r15 in 2011.


Now it's up to you buddy, either listen to the biker and buy it now, or listen to the normal guy and buy it in 2011.

Wait another month and buy the bike in january'11.. As mentioned above, it will increase your re-sell value (someday you will be selling the bike right, so whtas wrong in waiting only 1 more month?).. Even I am waiting for 2011..

Rest is upto you..

Trip 1 and Trip 2 are 2 separate trip meters which you can reset.
Their limit is 999 KMs, post that they restart from 0 KMs ..

Distance covered by 'reserve mode' is given by the Blinking Bar F Display..
It also has 2 stages. Blinking bar and "disappeared" bar ...
I had run the bike for ~ 25 KMs post the bar disappearing before getting a tankful ( not that it is advisable, I had done it due to certain constraints.. )

Using this Reserve method you stand to have significant variation in your mileage calculations...

Better way would be, get the tank Full ( Trip 1 = 0 ) and ride the bike for a good 250-300 KMs.

Then again get the Tank Full.

KMs travelled by you since first full tank( Trip 1 fig.)/Petrol needed to get the tank Full for the 2nd time = your bikes mileage.

A R15 during breaking in returning 25 KM/Litre just doesn't sound right ..

In fact Breaking in is the best time for recording high mileage figures ...
Things are quite different post break-in, i.e. when you start hitting 9K-10K rpm ...

i don't think you've got it right bro..

see i'll explain it as simply as possible..
the F-0.0 appears when there is 1.9L of petrol left in the tank(approximately)..
so, when there is 1.9L in the tank, the bike is on reserve..
the F-x.y shows the distance traveled after hitting reserve..

now heres a case:
you hit reserve, the speedo shows F-11.0.. it means you have traveled 11kms after hitting reserve..
when you refuel, note down this reading somewhere along with the amount of petrol you got (in litres ofcourse)..and set TRIP 1 to 0.
the next time the speedo shows F, say F-5.0 it means that in the amount of petrol you had filled, you got
average=(11 + TRIP1 - 5)/(litres of fuel filled)

this method is not very reliable and the values "may" vary +/-5kmpl or less not more..
try calculating again the next time you refuel!!

and also note one more thing..
after refueling, the F-__ will reset after travelling 5kms..
eg.- if you refueled when F was at 10.2 then the F trip meter will disappear only after it has reached 15.2 ..
and yeah, TRIP 1 and TRIP 2 are both programmable according to us.. say, you can use trip 1 to calculate the fuel efficiency, trip 2 to measure distance traveled from A to B, etc.
its not 4 litres, its 1.9L..


1.9L atleast the manual says so!

bro, post this in the DREAM riding gear section..you'll get more info there..

@Veyron...

Hey thanks a million man...I completely understood that and thanks for taking out some time for writing all this

BTW ... what mileage you used to get during running in period...I think I am getting 25 to 30..

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Guys forgot to tell u something

I took my bike to college and yeah everyone ofcourse was starting at me and even girls

A girl of my class even asked if i can take her for a ride ( I dont talk much to her tough and i dont like her :P )

I ofcourse said know as there are many of my relatives around

Anyways moving ahead some of my friends took the test ride and I sat back hoping that nothing bad happens to my bike on 1st day..

After the test rides there were few who liked the bike while there were some who were Truly Jealous and I could make out from their face and words..

Please reply to one by one to each of the comment below ( Hopefully i will give them the same reply someday)

1) The tires look skinny ..better change the tires and it will look more better

2) Its only 17 bhp? 220 is 21 Bhp...220 can kick R15's ass... (I just said that let the running in be completed and lets prove it)

3)FZ is better than R15 as the pickup is slow( They saying this since they rode it with speed of 30 to 50 kmph..as i told them to do so )

Damn I was trying to put my point but noone was understanding...bunch of fools..

So let me know ur views

^^ R15 is not a posers machine...

Question - You want to satisfy others? Do you need your college buddies approval? should have taken before you bought it.

If answer to above it yes then you are on the wrong machine and different side of biking spectrum.

R15 is best enjoyed on the saddle rather then staring at it and pointing at skinny tires...

Advice: Don't change the stock tires. they are for a purpose and they are good at it. there is more to them than fatness.

Use shell Advance instead. it is for bikes. FS is available in 10W40 spec. I used it once while switching from YAMAHALUBE SS @ 15000K. used it for 4500 kms before switching to Motul FS 15W50. Shell advance was good and i don't find any great difference between motul and shell. just my experience.

How much the Motul SS lasts???
Please tell the minimum figure guys...

1.9L to be precise

25 to 30 ???
u have certainly done the calculations the wrong way my friend !!!!
the bike is bound to give you more!
mine gave about 36-37kmpl in the run-in period and consistently gives about 42-45kmpl now!

u have come back to the same point !!! first u were talking about your relatives telling you to buy a 220 or fz and now your friends! have u bought the bike to please your friends/relatives ??? answer that first! should have thought about that before the purchase!

as for the tires ! its not about how fat or how thin it is, its about the balance! you'll experience it one day ! and stick to the stock !!