I got the bike repaired from the SVC .. donno what all have they done ..

the guys says that he has done a check on thermostat .. the coolant is full and was full already ..

when i showed the bike to the svc eng .. i told him about the headlights .. when on high beam only one light is on so he said its a wiring fault and he would take care of it but he did not and started saying that " high beam mai 1 he light jalta hai" .. than he confirmed with some other eng and he said both lights are on and he said its the issue with the button and will have to replace it for a charge of 200.. told him that it should be covered in the warranty and he said no ..

HE SAID PAY ME 200 AND ILL MAKE BOTH THE LIGHTS TURNON ON LOWER AND HIGHER .. WITH THE PASS WORKING AS WELL .. and i paid for it .. :P

IMP : Shouldnt the headlight problem be covered under warranty ??

i got the Speedometer working as he might have fixed the sensor or might have replaced it which i donno ..

if i still face a problem with the system overheating i would complain it as u said earlier ..

This has been discussed many times earlier. I have been using this since more than 2 years&its just like the mainstand of any other bike.
It does not reduce ground clearance&does not even scrape speedbreakers unless you go over them too fast with a heavy pillion. Even in that case it is helpful, as you don't bang the mono suspension link-it is the stand that takes the beating.
Once my mainstand pin flew off after heavy offroading&the bolt got bent, I got it replaced for a meagre sum.
Very useful&recommended to all.
Here are some of the links: http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/motorcyc...tml#post179335



Many have done this mod of making both lights glow even in low beam. If you find one of those posts, you can do it yourself, why waste Rs.200?
Also, how can pass work when both lights are on?

Pressing the pass switch would would make the lights glow on high beam. Just like in cars.

And how will that happen? There is only one filament in the bulb.
Try it once with both lights on&lemme know.

The bulbs have 2 filaments each.
IIRC, your bile has stock light settings, i.e. in low beam only left HL glows. The best way to fig out that there are 2 filaments would be to light up a wall with low beam, & them press the pass switch. You will see that the left HL gives out brighter light when the pass switch is pressed. Thats due to both the filaments glowing on the left HL, while the right HL has only the high beam filament glowing when the pass switch is pressed.

2 filaments in each bulb! I haven't seen my bike's face in a long time!
Anyway, what you said makes sense, thanks.
So, according to what you are saying, I'm assuming that in high beam, both lamps glow with their respective lower filaments. Right?
So, if this guy's mech.has shorted the wires to make both work in low beam itself, what will it glow like in high beam-both lamps with respective high filaments?
Then what will Pass make it do?
Now, once we figure this out, we will try to figure out how the CBR's pass switch works.

The R15's bulb is normal (with 2 filaments). Its just that it has 2 HLs unlike most other bikes.

To make both HLs work in low beam, IIRC only a wire needs to be connected to both HL assemblies.
In the low beam setup, both HLs will be on with the smaller filaments only, & in the high beam, both the HLs will be on with the brighter filaments only.
The 'pass' switch works only in 'low beam' & in 'lights off' scenarios. So by logic it will make all 4 filaments (2 on each HL) glow when used with the low beam on, & make both the high beam filaments glow when used in 'lights off' scenario.

The CBR has only 1 bulb right? In that case the low beam, high beam & pass will work like it does on any other bike with a single HL.
The only difference could be that the HL could be 'always on' i.e. in low beam.

Guys some urgent help needed...
Has any one used a rear tyre-Michelin 100/80 or 100/90 for the R15 if so, does it affect the handling or any other respects. And is the stock mrf better than the michelin. Which one should i go for.
My rear tyre is completely bald and gotta get it changed asap.

Yes, you are right-I went down&checked my bike with low, high beam&pass lights. When in high beam&pass is pressed, all 4 filaments glow. So, everything will be the same, except that the bike will run both HLs on high beam. I don't find any sense in getting the conversion done, since we can just manually use the high beam for that!

Yes, and I expect the parking lights to come on as soon as the ignition is switched to 'on' position too.

tibby, neoakshay&I were also discussing alternative tyre options when we met over the weekend. We even checked out a bike with a Pirelli MT75 rear tyre in stock size.
My suggestion is if you love the stock tyre too much, go for Michelin Pilot Sporty-it is soft compound too&has almost the same tread pattern as the stock MRF.
If you are looking for more grooves in the centre (don't attract nails), then Pirelli MT75 is the option, also soft compound&available in stock size.
Pricing wise I think Michelin would be more pocket friendly though.

yeah ok but if i go with michelin these guys have only 100/90 while stock is 100/80 does it matter in the performance or handling of the bike..
and out of the two mrf and michelin which is a better option??

got this today , no registration number yet.
opted for the current R15 than the new comin one
going for iridium plugs right away . another doubt guys , is the oil fiter of the FZ and R15 same?

Is that all it would take? Met a Yamaha Factory Engineer and according to him there are lots of component changes from the 20P to the 38B.. Me thinks it should mostly be changes (like the use of the FZ clutch) to make the manufacture cost-effective.

Would be worth an experiment though, and I would try it, finances permitting.

Only thing holding me back is the fact that the transmission system is the smoothest thing on my bike! Even 20P owners have commented that it feels good. Dunno if its my ridin style or the advantages of the FZ clutch parts..

P.S. - Wrote to Yamaha that my bike feels real harsh and rough and they promptly got the before-mentioned Factory Engineer to gimme a call. Met him today and he said he'd need about 3 hours with the bike to "run diagnostics". Will take it to him sometime this week. He also said, "I've trained most of the boys at the SVC myself, all the problems you mentioned are actually nothing serious and can actually be remedied quite easily." Either his training wasn't too effective, or the mechs are just idiots.. what say?

He also confirmed that the new R15 is gonna be the same mechanically, with just cosmetic changes. "The bike should be in showrooms in little over a month" he says. So all hopes of us having a R20 or a R25 down the drain biker-buddies!

Well... according to many people the clutch assembly is culprit... I really have my doubts... its not as if the FZ clutch is a weak one... one thing that people seem to forget is that many different Yamaha models share components... for example in the eighties I came across TZR125 that had the same clutch plates and pressure plates as the RX100 except that it had 1 extra clutch plate... does that mean that the RX100 clutch components were put in the TZR125, thereby making it a lesser machine???... the RX100 was a 11 BHP machine whereas the TZR was a 22BHP machine... according to Joel the ignition timing has been retarded for better low and midrange response... I have a feeling that is what is creating these impressions...

100/90 is Pulsar size, it will change the handling of the bike-don't go for it. Pilot Sporty is available in 100/80 size also, contact GoGreen, he will make it available for you through dealers in your town.
If that is not available, get the Pirelli MT75 in 100/80 size.
Obviously the stock MRF tyre is best for the bike, since it has been specifically designed. If you plan to change it soon, like 10-12K kms.then go for it by all means. Else the last 3-4K kms.will leave you wondering when so many nails got sucked in!
Michelin will be very similar to the stock MRF.
If you are looking for a slightly more rugged&longlasting option without compromising on soft compound&stock size, as of now Pirelli is the best option, since it is more grooved in the center.

Don't mess around with your new bike-its good as it is. The whining noise is a characteristic of the newer ones, like the older ones have the clutch bell noise. We ignore this, you ignore that!
And PM me about the new R15, I wanna know mainly about the swingarm bit which we were discussing the other day.

I just installed the Pirelli MT75 100/80-17 M/C 52P tire on my rear rim. Its got a great looking tread, plus the same compound as the R15's stock tire. Overall, it costed me 1.9k. I was initially looking for a 110/80 section tire, but later changed my mind since I didn't want to compromise on anything.

The Pirelli tire has been behaving really well. Grip levels are good too, and you get the added center patch tread (which I prefer over flat center patch). If you want a good tire, go for it