Got it...I asked the group member to post the wiring diagram if they find any. It will help a lot to convert the whole system into DC if we get wiring diagram. So, I'm urging the group members, plz upload a snap of the same if you find it anywhere.

so what do u convey saajan ? do you say that when ever we change the mode, the mapping is changed ??

rusted spot on engine fins

Hi all,

Initially i was excited by the new vehicle which i bought a month back. Now the problems has started coming up.
The engine has started behaving roughly, even after first service it has not retruned to that old smoothness.
There is a feeling of vibration when i press the rear brake.
The most upsetting thing is the rust developed on the engine fins. At two small spots the power coating has come out and started rusting. The Guy at service center tried to paint it with normal spray paint. I stopped him and told him to do something else about it. The normal spray paint will evaporate at those temperatures which the fins are subjected to when the engine is running.
Do anyone of you has got a solution for this please?

Absolutely, when u switch to eco/power, the mapping will also change according to it as its pre programmed in CDI along with the throttle position sensor to my knowledge. The light is just an indicator to show that which mapping is enabled. Most of the bikes are coming with this multi mapping CDI with the throttle position sensor. Few are coming with the mode selector and indicators.

Honestly, tell me how changing the ignition time can make an engine use less fuel? The fact of the matter is that a carburetted bike has no way of controlling the amount of fuel going into the engine, except for changing the jets in the carb.

In any case, with the same amount of fuel going into the cylinder, there's no way get less fuel consumption just by changing when the spark fires. All it will control is the amount of torque you get from your engine at a given RPM. And that it something you want to be always at the most optimum value, since then it gives you the best bang for the buck, quite literally.

What the switch does, is turn on a light on your console to encourage you to switch gears, because using higher gears means better mileage. Just for fun try riding with the eco mode on, but ignore the light as if you are driving on power mode. You will not feel any lack of power, and your mileage also will be the same. Only when you drive gently and switch gears early you get improved mileage, that is what the light accomplishes.

(BTW, the discussion about the switch also changing settings on the carb has been had some time early in this thread already. The carb is just a carb and the switch does not affect it.)

Sorry to hear abt the condition of ur bike.Hi buddy where do u live.

man.. i guess this is right. After riding the bike in power mode for almost 4-5 months, y'day i switched it back to normal mode. Guess what, I can feel change in the pick up. I think TPS is in place doing the magic here.

or its purely psychological and not any magic.
even the showroom guys say its just an indication.
dont you think suzuki ppl would brag lot more if it had diff. mapping or anything.

anyway. i'm going to try riding in eco,pwr and that no indication mode to check out the difference for myself. will post back soon.



anyway, i have a feeling riding between 4-5k rpm gives better mileage than 3-4k rpm. i know it seems wrong, but i feel the engine has to burn more fuel to stay at 3k due to drag and less pick up.
what do u think is a better range to ride in ??

Dude, did I ever said that the fuel can be controlled by this switch? The switch is just varying the mapping mode, which is already pre programed in he CDI. Its the riding manner, decides the outcome. To be honest, I never checked the swtich wires are connected to the CDI or not, or milage and power test irrespective of the switch settings. Have u?

So what do u say, its a simple motivation light switch?. Every one know the tip of econo and power driving tips, for that a switch is not required I hope. Could u pls check the switch connections and confirm?

So I agree partially with ur final statement that a carb is just a carb but the switch?

And does it mean that multi mapping doesnt help anyway?

Best mileage, lowest rpm you can go without dragging the engine.
Probably something like 3K minimum, switch gears when you hit the rpm that will keep your engine just above the minimum rpm in the new gear.
Accelerate gently, don't open the throttle too much.
Switch off the engine at stops longer than 30 seconds.
Drive in the highest gear possible at all times. Mind the minimum rpm.

You didn't, however that's not the point. The point was:
* The fuel flow is controlled by the carb.
* Changing ignition timing to anything other than optimal only loses efficiency.

There simply is no logical reason why the switch should change the ignition maps. That's all. No offense intended, just trying to make sure there's no odd myths floating around.

I don't own a GS150. But I have had a Honda Shine, and now I have a P220. Both bikes can be made to drink fuel easily, just by revving the engine higher. So the same will go for a GS150. The light is just that a motivation light, a handy reminder to help you get better mileage. (Some cars have similar motivations in the form of a mileage indicator.)

For GS, the best mileage comes in 3.5 to 4.5 range. It is surprising, I also believed that lower the rpm higher the mileage as the engine burns less petrol, but this has more to do with the efficiency than the rpm. At low rpm (below 3.5) engine is getting dragged, and thus not performing optimally. In 3.5-4.5 range, the engine is in its best phase, thus burning the fuel optimally. That's why, follow the ECO indication well, which goes as following

Above 20kmph - second
30-40 KMPH - third gear
40-47 KMPH - forth gear
47-54 KMPH - fifth
above 54 sixth.

Even though we can ride at 30-35kmph in 6th gear, this will reduce the mileage as the engine is unnecessarily being dragged. I started following the ECO indication and last time, in 100rs petrol the bike rode for 118kms

About the modes and the possible change, I am sure there is no such change in fuel mapping. If there is, what does the third 'blank' mode maps to? For me, they are only light indications, even suzuki mentions them as indicator only, and not 'mode changer'.

I like these kind of technical discussion... go ahead guys... but dont forget to make some conclusion in the final.
why wires are connected to the carb? is that only for light indication? whats TPS will do then?

Wires near the carb are for the TPS.

TPS has a very real application, since an engine needs different ignition timing when running at differently throttle positions. Specifically, while on part throttle it needs more timing advance then when at higher throttle. So the CDI module uses the information from the RPM/crank angle sensor and throttle position to determine how much ignition advance to use to keep the engine running at the best efficiency. If you have no TPS you need to run with less ignition advance always, thus giving less power at small throttle openings. With TPS you know it's at a small throttle opening and can use more advance, thus giving better power. That's also why a TPS can help with getting better mileage, it makes sure the engine runs at it's best efficiency as much as possible.

Conclusion? (From my side: )
The switch just determines the rpm at which it lights up. No mappings will be changed, except for the riders gear shift mapping.

For real mode selection you need fuel injection. See hayabusa, it has modes, to limit power in the city. (It's not just fuel injection, there's more to it, but that's the most important bit.)

you ride upto 20 in 1st gear
beyond 15 it becomes loud and sounds pretty bad.
even when i'm in a mood to rip i change to 2nd by 17km/h usually.
i change my gears as follows.(for normal riding, not racing)
0-12 1st gear
12-22 2nd gear
22-34 3rd gear
34-40 4th gear
40-50 5th gear
above 50 6th gear.

and nowadays i'm trying to accelerate upto 4.5k in 3,4,5,6 gears. not 1 and 2 though.

mileage i get is 50-52 with shell normal.

before i used to ride at 2.5-3k and the mileage i got was 40. so after 200km i thought of revving coz mileage was bad anyway and it actually improved.
or it could be because i shifted from BP to shell.

I very recently got the upper part of the cylinder replaced for my Hero Honda, as the coating on the fins was peeling off. If yours has peeled off, its a definite case of defective coating. Insist that it be changed... you might have to press the issue. Normal paint will definitely not survive the temperatures there.