Heheh ,
There are a lot better things in the market , just that ppl are brand specific .
So i keep my ideas to myself :-)

Santa

The lack-of-bite you mentioned is very high and even can't stop by using only rear brake, to make it work I literally need to stand on the lever,I guess you got the picture. For drum brakes, there is a setting to set the brake power(?), is there any similar setting for the rear disk? or pad change is the only solution?

It may be an issue with the oil flow . Check that in the SS.
Check pads surface, check plate surface . Lubed ur chain recently?

Had an oil splash onto the disc set up?

Santa

Yes, SVC guys lubed chain 2 weeks back. Could be the reason . I'm going for my 4th servicing tomorrow, will get everything fixed. Thanks buddy, that really helped

ok guys thanks for the great info i will check the front sproket and lets hope for the best !

we just replaced a clutch housing and the primary helical on a friend's bike. Its the clutch coupling inside that gives up, causing a play in the housing. The sound is really irritating, but i found an improvement in the clutch after replacement.

go for the yamaha coolant, a tad expensive but worth it.

They are Original pads( as in manufactured by the same company), but those which do not meet exact company spec. So you would need to wear the pads out a lil, so that they dont grab the rear disc, thats all. My friends have used em, no issues observed. They sell cheaper because of the griding of the pad side needed to make them fit.

How much did it cost or under warranty? Do you have any pics? I understand the housing part, it makes noise after long rides in my bike also, but settles down on its own in a day or two. I want to see what the helical looks like.

Guys please help

If you create a ruckus with the company, they might replace it under warranty. the clutch housing is some 650 bucks ( say 700 ), and the primary helical is about 380 or something ( say 400 ).

We've observed that the sound is maximum when the engine is cold, and after riding for a few kms dies out, and only a slight difference is felt. The problems is that this issue should not be happening. Some of the service engineers of yamaha have confirmed this as a design flaw, but the company is not doing anything about it atm.

The original design of the clutch housing had 4 rivets in it. They have increased the number of rivets to 6,( as per the engineer), but still the issue persists. The dilemma is that if the clutch is giving way under 17bhp and full rpm riding, then what can one expect when the engine gets the performance kit? replacements every 4000 kms??

The engineers are not ready to make it a service item also, you know, replace every 10,000 kms or so, because no one has heard of clutch drum replacement at regular intervals in a bike. So its fit until failure or fault. My gripe is that it affects the refinement, sound and performance of the bike.

I'm not saying that your rear disc setup doesnt have a problem, but we are supposed to use the front brakes to stop the bike, not the rear. Definitely not ONLY rear. I think using rear brake in tandem with front (with a lot more emphasis on front brakes) balances the bike while stopping (keeps it in line).

Honestly, I never tried stopping with only my rear brake. I wouldnt even know if I'm having a problem with them as I almost always use the front alone.

+1
Its best to use both the brakes with more emphasis on the front brakes for best braking response & balance..
Use ONLY the rear brakes when moving at low speeds (say, in midst of traffic)..

Moreover, the high price of the rear disc pads in a way discourages use of ONLY rear brakes

Hii friends, my bike has done nearly 9000kms and i am planning to give it to 4th service next week. I have a few questions, could u please help me:

1. The chain sound is always present no matter how much i lube and clean it. The mechanic has said that i should replace the chain and sprocket??

2. I noticed that the engine has become very rough. While riding in each gear at 4-5k rpm, the engine feels very rough and it is as though the bike is running out of petrol. It feels like bike is stopping.

3. The rear brake is almost of no use now as it doesnt have any bite. Should i have to replace rear disk pads??

4. I am getting less mileage now, around 36 but previously i was getting 42-44.

Most importantly, the bike is not having any pickup and it is very dull in throttle response. Also i have to replace the engine kill switch under warranty as the bike is swtching off its engine while running.

I'm not responding particularly to any question but, please make sure the below two things are done in the service:

1. Tappet adjustment. To see the required clearance values, check this thread a few pages back.

2. Nuts/bolts tightening. Just get all the engine mounting bolts tightened, ESPECIALLY the one directly under the fuel tank.

A good way to teach us braking. Right?

Use one night breaker H4 55/60W and one regular bulb. If you wont to use both 55/60W bulbs then your battery will drain in maximum 2 hours in city and may be 3-4 hours on the highway.

Else better use HID if you can afford them.

New Model R15 Launched. A fellow xBhpian got a confirmation from Yamaha - http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/news/105...tml#post343850

NO Update on Yamaha India website yet.